(Topic ID: 154032)

Quicksilver Club all welcome


By TigerLaw

4 years ago



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  • 113 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 24 days ago by China_Grove
  • Topic is favorited by 42 Pinsiders

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There are 1124 posts in this topic. You are on page 23 of 23.
#1101 3 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

pictures, please. Was it hard to make? How long of tube rivet do you have to use? So many of my bad sockets are just from the material at that brass washer getting loose and not making good contact. And I think the looseness is from the fiber insulation washer drying out and shrinking.

Actually, the brass eyelet, clinched end, on the inside of the base breaks.
When this happens it causes a slack to the assembly.
A small brass ring will pop out if you cut the contact rivet head off.
If there is still a good compression to the assembly, then re-striking the eyelet is sufficient
to re-clinch the assembly together.
As for eyelet size, GS5-7B Brass. This size seems to work best... I have to pre-flare the end...
and then the clinching gives a better results.
I had to buy many sizes to find the right size... So -7B is the smallest that works.
Other sizes were not long enough. -5B, -6B ect,etc,etc.
-8B might work but I have not bought any to tryout.
I have had to buy brass tubing at the hobby shop and use it to make
the eyelets to clinch switch stacks to European pinballs.
A tough game to fix, that was time consuming, was Top Speed.
It was just one thing after another... But, I was able to fix the lamp sockets.
( The drum lights to the back box were a pain )
As far as the tools you need two parts... A base with the inverted cup and hole,
and the clincher that has a nose that fits into the hole of the base.
the clincher should have a small curved rounded base that flares the eyelet end.
I need to get a better base made that has one side of it cutoff to fit "lay-down" style
lamps. "rollover button" style lamp sockets.
eg Bally E-120-155, E-120-99 etc,etc,etc.
As for semi-tube rivets, steel rivet size -18 seems to fit along with size -19.
TSC0818,TSC0819. It depends on the lamp socket.
Bally had an inverted cup stem rivet to some of their lamp sockets.
In all, when the lamp sockets are all knowingly good the game looks better
and is fun to watch if you have a feature that has strobing lamp fx...
I just finished the lamps to a Bally Freedom... it is so nice to hit the
spinners and watch the wheel lamps wiz around and around.

#1102 3 months ago

A question to the Quicksilver faithful, the QS Parts manual states a SW-474 switch (or something similar) for the flipper button switches. Is there a modern equivalent to this? Or can someone recommend a switch which will do the job. I’ve found a couple which look possible, but they don’t state dimensions so it’s hard to tell.

#1103 3 months ago

Here’s the cabinet flipper switch from pinball life for comparison. (The sw-10a-48 switch)

It’s a little thicker, so I’ll remove some spacers if needed.
06928200-2B73-432F-B4E7-CAF7BADE8F0B (resized).jpeg

#1104 3 months ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Here’s the cabinet flipper switch from pinball life for comparison. (The sw-10a-48 switch)
It’s a little thicker, so I’ll remove slime spacers if needed.[quoted image]

I would keep the OEM switch stack and just replace the contacts with the new ones.
That way it has the same footprint.

#1105 3 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I would keep the OEM switch stack and just replace the contacts with the new ones.
That way it has the same footprint.

I did that. I was surprised at how easy the contacts are to replace.

While we area it, vec-tor, does the switch blade material have an end of life? Does the metal blade work harden after 5000 hits?

#1106 3 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I would keep the OEM switch stack and just replace the contacts with the new ones.
That way it has the same footprint.

There’s a thought. Not something I’ve done before, is there an easy way to determine what’s needed or just get out the measuring tape?

#1107 3 months ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

There’s a thought. Not something I’ve done before, is there an easy way to determine what’s needed or just get out the measuring tape?

The contact is that little button on the end of the switch blades. You drill off the back side of the contact, push it from the hole, put a new contact in place and tap it with a hammer until it is locked in solid. It is like a small rivet.

A set of flipper switches will set you back about $16.00 for a pair. Contacts cost something like 5 cents each.

#1108 3 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

The contact is that little button on the end of the switch blades. You drill off the back side of the contact, push it from the hole, put a new contact in place and tap it with a hammer until it is locked in solid. It is like a small rivet.
A set of flipper switches will set you back about $16.00 for a pair. Contacts cost something like 5 cents each.

Ahh, I was thinking he meant the entire blades, now that does sound promising!

#1109 3 months ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Ahh, I was thinking he meant the entire blades, now that does sound promising!

I’m already doing an order with Marcos, another from PB resource inc shipping will negate any savings sadly Entire switches it is.

#1110 3 months ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

I’m already doing an order with Marcos, another from PB resource inc shipping will negate any savings sadly Entire switches it is.

PBR has all of the switch blades if you want to build your own. PBR is where I got my contacts from, Pinball Life is where you get complete classic Stern flipper assemblies. Marcos is where you get lots of stuff plus reprinted and bound Classic Stern manuals. If you are ordering from Marcos you may as well get yourself a Quicksilver manual.

None of them have everything.
The only one-stop shop is the U.S. post office. I have a fortune in just shipping fees.

The contacts are cheap. Get some of those to have handy for later on.

#1111 3 months ago

I have seen contact points wear out and eat into the metal blade.
I never have seen a flipper contact blade fatigue to the point of breaking.
I have seen flipper contacts spacing fatigue to a more or less wide open position.
I have seen flipper contacts get oxidized to a point were current could not pass
and thus could not make the flippers function.
I have used Gottlieb's cabinet flipper switches as replacement for Bally's.
-----------------------------------------------
Williams' cabinet flipper contacts I have saved...
I have been able to piece together new/used cabinet switches,
by using good condition used blades.
One contact blade point would be shot... but the other still good...
Oddly, Williams' as three to four subtle design changes to the same cabinet switches.
( this is were you swap out the bad contact blade/or point and reassemble )
so as to keep the same footprint and can easily be reinstalled into the cabinet.
-----------------------------------------------
I have done some subtle odd bends to the long blades so as to make
the contacts points come together vertically...
I have done the "new bend" to the outside long blade.
( it refrain's the contact blades from spreading apart ) or
( it adds stiffness to the outside blade against the contacts from the
inside blade ) Etc,etc,etc.

#1112 3 months ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Here’s the cabinet flipper switch from pinball life for comparison. (The sw-10a-48 switch)
It’s a little thicker, so I’ll remove slime spacers if needed.[quoted image]

I just take the new switch stack apart and use the new blades in the original stack.

#1113 88 days ago

I use a 2.2 Mfd 250v Mylar capacitor across the EOS switch like system 11’s use. Never arc again.

I presume you could do the same on the cabinet flipper switches as well.

#1114 88 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Williams' cabinet flipper contacts I have saved...

This deserves its own thread...

#1115 88 days ago
Quoted from pinfixer:

I use a 2.2 Mfd 250v Mylar capacitor across the EOS switch like system 11’s use. Never arc again.
I presume you could do the same on the cabinet flipper switches as well.

Be careful... too many capacitors on the +48 volt line will filter-out the ripple
that the zero crossing needs for the CPU to work.

#1116 87 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Be careful... too many capacitors on the +48 volt line will filter-out the ripple
that the zero crossing needs for the CPU to work.

The EOS only "filters" during the exact moment the EOS opens. I've added them to every Bally game I've worked on for decades and never had any phantom reset issue.

#1117 87 days ago
Quoted from pinfixer:

The EOS only "filters" during the exact moment the EOS opens. I've added them to every Bally game I've worked on for decades and never had any phantom reset issue.

I went gun-hoe with capacitors many years ago...
the game would just stop.

#1118 85 days ago

3 spinner questions:

1. How far away should the bottom of the spinner be from the playfield? Mine is 3/4” but want to make sure that is correct.

2. Also, why does it look like the red plastic posts on the spinner have a screw holding it down on one side but a metal post post (which usually allows for a plastic piece to go on top) on the other?

3. On the post of the left, I’ve seen some games with a straight metal post (with a small rubber on it) and some with a red plastic post (with a 5/16” rubber on it). Which way is it supposed to be? Obviously this post is to protect the spinner mech, so the metal pokey post makes more sense to me, but again, I’ve seen it both ways!

image (resized).jpg
#1119 85 days ago

The post on the right side of the spinner should be a machine screw mounted from underneath with a nut on top or a machine screw mounted to a t-nut under the play field. If just a wood screw it will strip taking pop bumper hits and missed shots at the spinner.

Your spinner should be perpendicular to the playfield, or leaning very slightly forward from the top. Your spinner arms aren't square and it's off balance/leaning way too far forward. You're also missing the original Stern spinner which is superior to that repro. If you have the original, it will work better. If the original is beat up and you don't want to use it, sell it to me.

My QS has a star post in front of the left spinner and a mini post in front of the right which is what's depicted on the game flyer so I would assume that's the correct way. Also, make sure it's mounted through the playfield and not with a wood screw only.

#1120 85 days ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

3 spinner questions:
1. How far away should the bottom of the spinner be from the playfield? Mine is 3/4” but want to make sure that is correct.

You’re spinner posts are correct. You want the tall ones.

#1121 85 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

You’re spinner posts are correct. You want the tall ones.

Best if your posts are on the long machine screws coming up from the bottom. Just like slingshots. High impact points.

#1122 85 days ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

3 spinner questions:
1. How far away should the bottom of the spinner be from the playfield? Mine is 3/4” but want to make sure that is correct.
2. Also, why does it look like the red plastic posts on the spinner have a screw holding it down on one side but a metal post post (which usually allows for a plastic piece to go on top) on the other?
3. On the post of the left, I’ve seen some games with a straight metal post (with a small rubber on it) and some with a red plastic post (with a 5/16” rubber on it). Which way is it supposed to be? Obviously this post is to protect the spinner mech, so the metal pokey post makes more sense to me, but again, I’ve seen it both ways![quoted image]

To directly answer your question, the spinner should be low enough for the ball to just touch the bottom 1/8", may be a little less. But using the correct parts makes in a no worry item.

This is the post that is correct.

http://pbresource.com/postscrew.html

http://pbresource.com/hhouse/gtb-a14792.jpg

But those post take a lot of impact and can damage the hole they are screwed into.
---------------------------------------------------------

I have one of these one pin. It works fine. You drill out bigger hole and lock it down with a washer and a nut underneath

http://pbresource.com/postscrew/de-530-5005-00.jpg

http://pbresource.com/postscrew.html
---------------------------
I have one of these 8/32s on a another pin. Again without issue. I prefer this one as it has a little bit bigger base on top to better take the impacts.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4003

And there is this 10/32 which will also work.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4660

But one I found I like the 8/32 style. I am staying with that as it works with drilling a smaller hole in the wood.

Make sure you have good nice size washer underneath to help spread the load.

#1123 85 days ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

red plastic post (with a 5/16” rubber on it). Which way is it supposed to be?

OEM is with the red post.
The post helps protect the side of the metal bracket that has
---- the left eject hole.

2 months later
#1124 24 days ago

What are ya’ll guys doing about the missing key line on the star rollovers on the micro playfield? I am thinking of leaving it as is but was wondering what others were doing.

Also is anyone putting Mylar around the pop bumpers or just leaving it alone with no protection. I am on the fence on this before populating the playfield.

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