(Topic ID: 154032)

Quicksilver Club all welcome


By TigerLaw

4 years ago



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  • 1,112 posts
  • 112 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by dothedoo
  • Topic is favorited by 42 Pinsiders

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There are 1112 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 23.
#1051 50 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Which pin are you trying to outfit. Stern used a couple of different coils depending on which pin.

Do you mean which machine?? Quicksilver. The label details of the flipper coils have rubbed off so going by what the manual.

#1052 50 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Hi all, quick question, looking for new flipper coils, the manual states: J-25-475/34-4500. My local supplier has a couple which sound familiar but not exact. Would either of these work or should I track down the exact type?[quoted image]

The numbers relate to the gauge of wire and number of turns for each winding with the flipper coil. One winding has 25 gauge wire with 475 turns and the other has 34 gauge wire and 4500 turns. One is the hold winding, the other the power/flip winding. Unfortunately Nino doesn't have the exact replacement for you, but Mark does...

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/j-25-475-34-4500.html

#1053 45 days ago

Anyone have the plastic post count needed to populate the playfield handy?

#1054 45 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Which pin are you trying to outfit. Stern used a couple of different coils depending on which pin.

I would use what you stated. J-25-475/34-4500 You can use a 450 J-25-450/34-4500 also which is more power but on QS I like to use 475. Longer shots and you need power for the spinner action!!!

#1055 45 days ago
Quoted from Peabo:

Anyone have the plastic post count needed to populate the playfield handy?

Order 46 of them, and you'll be fine.

#1056 44 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Order 46 of them, and you'll be fine.

Are they all 1 3/16" ?

#1057 44 days ago
Quoted from Peabo:

Are they all 1 3/16" ?

Yes, Faceted. All the same height. Unless you want the adjustable out lane posts to be shorter

2 weeks later
#1058 28 days ago

If you bought a Quicksilver harness kit from me, you will find I missed the 10point switch on the side of the playfield just below the kick-out hole. This was entirely on me. When you get to installing your kit send me a PM and I will get the fix right out to you at my cost. No excuses, just apologies for any confusion caused. I don't want to just send them out to all who bought because I know some have sold or passed on their kits. So just let me know when you are ready and I will get it right out to you. Thanks, and again, sorry.

Shawn Farwell
Third Coast Pinball

#1059 28 days ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

If you bought a Quicksilver harness kit from me, you will find I missed the 10point switch on the side of the playfield just below the kick-out hole. This was entirely on me. When you get to installing your kit send me a PM and I will get the fix right out to you at my cost. No excuses, just apologies for any confusion caused. I don't want to just send them out to all who bought because I know some have sold or passed on their kits. So just let me know when you are ready and I will get it right out to you. Thanks, and again, sorry.
Shawn Farwell
Third Coast Pinball

I can't say enough good things about the service you provide Shawn. Thank you so much for taking care of this.

(I had identified the switch wires as missing last night, and pm'd Shawn this morning. He's already confirmed the issue, and sent out the needed wire). Now that's great customer service.

#1060 28 days ago

He does do amazing work and his service is impeccable. Not many left that are as good as him.

#1061 27 days ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Shawn Farwell
Third Coast Pinball

Any word on hen the next production of QS harnesses will happen? So stoked.

#1062 27 days ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

Any word on hen the next production of QS harnesses will happen? So stoked.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-wire-and-harnesses/page/2#post-5475354

#1063 27 days ago

SOLD-

I have a set of QS rails up for grabs from
my last batch of rails. 70+shipping. These are made of oak and finished in black lacquer.
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#1064 27 days ago

Pm sent taylorva

#1065 22 days ago

I sure hope this is true. Being delivered soon.

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#1066 22 days ago

Has anyone received a Quicksilver playfield from Mirco lately? I was wondering if they fixed the soft clearcoat. I also heard some playfields were missing key lines for the star rollover inserts.

#1067 22 days ago
Quoted from kickabit:

Has anyone received a Quicksilver playfield from Mirco lately? I was wondering if they fixed the soft clearcoat. I also heard some playfields were missing key lines for the star rollover inserts.

I got my Mirco about 2 months ago. The clear coat could be indented with a finger nail. It has hardened up a little bit but I will let it continue to cure for awhile.

And yes, the keylines for the two rollover inserts are missing. I could fix that but it is a minor error not worth me fooling with. It is a beautiful play field. I would buy it again.

#1068 22 days ago
Quoted from kickabit:

Has anyone received a Quicksilver playfield from Mirco lately? I was wondering if they fixed the soft clearcoat. I also heard some playfields were missing key lines for the star rollover inserts.

Wow I hadn’t noticed that before. Far less obvious to me than the tooling marks in the translucent inserts.

#1069 21 days ago

I got mine today. Looks pretty good but def could leave a mark with my fingernail. Needs to cure a bit more.

#1070 20 days ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

I got mine today. Looks pretty good but def could leave a mark with my fingernail. Needs to cure a bit more.

Does yours have the keylines? I would also suggest taking a pinball and running it around the area under the apron to test. A friend of mine did this and the clearcoat was being destroyed just by a ball being rolled by hand on it.

#1071 20 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Wow I hadn’t noticed that before. Far less obvious to me than the tooling marks in the translucent inserts.

A couple of items I noticed on my Mirco QS play field besides no key lines around the rollover switches are:

1) Since Mirco is cat-molding his own plastics, the white inserts have a sort of translucent white loot to them. I really like that look and would like to buy a small quantity of Mirco's white inserts.

2) The blue color in the 2000 point arrows looks rather pale. The are blue but look a little faded. However, that can easily be corrected with color matching LEDs in the feature lamps.

#1072 20 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

2) The blue color in the 2000 point arrows looks rather pale. The are blue but look a little faded. However, that can easily be corrected with color matching LEDs in the feature lamps.

Use Comet ice blue bulbs in the blue inserts, really makes them pop.

#1073 20 days ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

I sure hope this is true. Being delivered soon.[quoted image]

Wow!!! So he’s finally admitting there was a problem and the method has been changed!! Strange that he refused to admit any fault when I explained my issues with my QS. And in the end had to cough up many hundreds of dollars more to have it re-cleared. The bloke is a shark, plain and simple.

#1074 20 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

So he’s finally admitting there was a problem

Where is this?

#1075 20 days ago

I purchased a QS playfield last Friday direct from Mirco, but it still hasn’t shipped yet. They said there is high demand at the moment & are currently running them. Supposedly the previously mentioned errors have been addressed on the new run, but I can’t verify yet. After hearing about the soft clear on the previous runs, I decided to have it shipped directly to Kruzman for him to re-clear it properly. Hopefully it will ship my by end of this week.

#1076 17 days ago
Quoted from mof:

Where is this?

Look at my PM from him above

#1077 16 days ago

I have added the key lines to the two rollovers now. There will be no more problems with the clearcoat.

The fingernail test is nothing you should pay attention to. All latest shipped boards for the last few month will never show the problem we have seen on a few before.

All boards I ship can be installed right away without seeing any issues.

Regards,
Mirco

#1078 9 days ago

I'm looking for the controlled lamp wiring diagram, is this something that's only available in the printed manual?

#1079 9 days ago
Quoted from Peabo:

I'm looking for the controlled lamp wiring diagram, is this something that's only available in the printed manual?

LDB schematics help?

Stern_1980_Quicksilver_Lamp_Driver_Schematic (resized).jpg
#1080 9 days ago
Quoted from Highclasspinball:

I have added the key lines to the two rollovers now. There will be no more problems with the clearcoat.
The fingernail test is nothing you should pay attention to. All latest shipped boards for the last few month will never show the problem we have seen on a few before.
All boards I ship can be installed right away without seeing any issues.
Regards,
Mirco

Wow!! So you do recognise there was a problem with some previous playfields!!!... strange at the time you doing your best to pass the buck and acknowledge no fault.

#1081 9 days ago

Can someone measure the length of this rail and share with me their findings? djblouw? Thanks
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#1082 8 days ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

Can someone measure the length of this rail and share with me their findings? djblouw? Thanks
[quoted image]

17 3/8”

#1083 8 days ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

Can someone measure the length of this rail and share with me their findings? djblouw? Thanks
[quoted image]

You could make your own or order a new set here.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/oak-replacement-playfield-rails-wh2o-and-taf-ready-to-ship-or-york/page/18#post-5542334

#1084 7 days ago

Making my own and this was the last measurement I needed

#1085 5 days ago

I’m half way through my full restoration and need to order my last (hopefully) batch of spare parts. I’m struggling to find the part numbers however. Can anyone help?

Flipper Cabinet Switches
Flipper Bats
Flipper bushings
Coil Sleeves - How do you determine? (no listing online anywhere for these)
Correct plunger spring (internal and external)
The long thin (carriage) bolt at the front of the side rails (pretty sure used for earthing)

Is there a better resource than the manual for parts as it’s pretty light on.

#1086 3 days ago

Has anyone put together an itemised kit/list of LEDs that they'd like to share? Also, I've read the flicker eliminator kits don't completely allow the use of LEDs, what do you use to allow LEDs?

#1087 3 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Has anyone put together an itemised kit/list of LEDs that they'd like to share? Also, I've read the flicker eliminator kits don't completely allow the use of LEDs, what do you use to allow LEDs?

The flicker eliminator kit worked great in mine. Any problems I've had have always been with SCRs.

I don't have an itemised LED list, but I used clear Comet retro under most inserts (the old single LED style, not SMD) because I like the look of them under the translucent inserts.

I think the lane guides have clear 1 SMD.

I used 2 SMD frosted sunlights in the pop bumpers.

I put two blue flex LEDs under each spinner arrow and clear blue LEDs in the flipper return lanes which I'm going to change to ice blue.

I had to use a pink LED under the 5X insert in the bonus area because the insert had faded almost to white.

And I put two pink LEDs behind the Stern logo in the backbox.

All GI is incandescent with 44s in the playfield and 47s in the backbox.
87DFC776-11F0-4E4D-AB80-D7444F3F77F5 (resized).jpeg

#1088 3 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

The flicker eliminator kit worked great in mine. Any problems I've had have always been with SCRs.
I don't have an itemised LED list, but I used Comet retro under most inserts (the old single LED style, not SMD) because I like the look of them under the translucent inserts.
I put two blue flex LEDs under each spinner arrow and clear blue LEDs in the flipper return lanes which I'm going to change to ice blue.
I had to use a pink LED under the 5X insert in the bonus area because the insert had faded almost to white.
And I put two pink LEDs behind the Stern logo in the backbox.
All GI is incandescent with 44s in the playfield and 47s in the backbox.[quoted image]

That’s a beautiful looking Quicksilver Dothedo! New playfield? Appreciate your LED tips and glad to hear you had success with the eliminator kit. Thanks.

#1089 2 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

That’s a beautiful looking Quicksilver Dothedo! New playfield? Appreciate your LED tips and glad to hear you had success with the eliminator kit. Thanks.

Thanks! It's an original playfield that was restored by classic_stern. We were lucky to find one that didn't have too much wear. It has a few issues that developed over time, and one that's visible, even in this image, that we decided not to fix at the time.

I want to redo it and fix all of its issues, but it plays so well and I can't give it up. So I need to build another one that plays as well or better before I tear this one down.

#1090 2 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Thanks! It's an original playfield that was restored by classic_stern. We were lucky to find one that didn't have too much wear. It has a few issues that developed over time, and one that's visible, even in this image, that we decided not to fix at the time.
I want to redo it and fix all of its issues, but it plays so well and I can't give it up. So I need to build another one that plays as well or better before I tear this one down.

Thats incredible for an OG playfield! I'm unsure if it was quality issues, or just the 40 years of wear, but Quicksilvers playfields always seem to be in relatively poor shape. I completely agree re finding another to restore so you have one playing still. I pulled mine apart 3 months ago and was really hesitant knowing the length of time it was going to take to finish. I've never missed playing a pin so much.

#1091 2 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

The flicker eliminator kit worked great in mine. Any problems I've had have always been with SCRs.

Yup. Same in mine. Had several bad corresponding scrs for a few flickering inserts. I had to replace them after shotgunning socket and wiring swaps. Pro tip: try swapping out a light board if possible, it’ll save you time and potential headaches LOL. In the end the kit worked as intended in mine and sockets and wiring were fine.

#1092 2 days ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Yup. Same in mine. Had several bad corresponding scrs for a few flickering inserts. I had to replace them after shotgunning socket and wiring swaps. Pro tip: try swapping out a light board if possible, it’ll save you time and potential headaches LOL. In the end the kit worked as intended in mine and sockets and wiring were fine.

What do you mean by "shotgunning socket and wiring swaps"? I've heard replacing all bulb sockets is a smart idea. I'm yet to do the sums, but it looks a costly exercise, not to mentioned getting the right ones... so many options!!

#1093 2 days ago

It means I hastily added a new socket and re-wired it and there was no change in the flickering on one of my three inserts with the issue. Swapped out the board and it was fine... SCRs frequency go bad in original boards, luckily it’s a cheap fix!

#1094 2 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

What do you mean by "shotgunning socket and wiring swaps"? I've heard replacing all bulb sockets is a smart idea. I'm yet to do the sums, but it looks a costly exercise, not to mentioned getting the right ones... so many options!!

Flaky lamp sockets and LEDs are a PAIN. However, you can clean inside them with a socket cleaning stick and solder them back together so you won't need to replace them. It's not a fun job but I can do an entire game in an hour or two usually. It would take at least that to put new ones in and it saves you the money of buying a ton of them. I typically solder the sides only and if I'm still having trouble I'll solder the wire to the center pin.

http://homepinballrepair.com/index.php/repair-pinball-lamp-sockets/

#1095 2 days ago
Quoted from jay:

Flaky lamps socket and LEDs are a PAIN. However, you can clean inside them with a socket cleaning stick and solder them back together so you won't need to replace them. It's not a fun job but I can do an entire game in an hour or two usually. It would take at least that to put new ones in and it saves you the money of buying a ton of them. I typically solder the sides only and if I'm still having trouble I'll solder the wire to the center pin.
http://homepinballrepair.com/index.php/repair-pinball-lamp-sockets/

I have gone a step further...
1) Hacksaw off the rivet head
2) Use a custom made clincher for the brass eyelet and re-clinch the body.
---- or replace the eyelet assembly completely.
3) Install new tube rivet with compression spring and re-clinch the tip.
4) Test continuity... with and with out lamp...
5) All good... reinstall and test.

#1096 2 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

The flicker eliminator kit worked great in mine. Any problems I've had have always been with SCRs.
I don't have an itemised LED list, but I used clear Comet retro under most inserts (the old single LED style, not SMD) because I like the look of them under the translucent inserts.
I think the lane guides have clear 1 SMD.
I used 2 SMD frosted sunlights in the pop bumpers.
I put two blue flex LEDs under each spinner arrow and clear blue LEDs in the flipper return lanes which I'm going to change to ice blue.
I had to use a pink LED under the 5X insert in the bonus area because the insert had faded almost to white.
And I put two pink LEDs behind the Stern logo in the backbox.
All GI is incandescent with 44s in the playfield and 47s in the backbox.
[quoted image]

One more q, did you try LEDs in the GI? I'm using incandescents in the GI of my Funhouse and prefer it that way, all my others are LED.

#1097 2 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I have gone a step further...
1) Hacksaw off the rivet head
2) Use a custom made clincher for the brass eyelet and re-clinch the body.
---- or replace the eyelet assembly completely.
3) Install new tube rivet with compression spring and re-clinch the tip.
4) Test continuity... with and with out lamp...
5) All good... reinstall and test.

Do you still have your custom made tools? This sounds interesting.

#1098 1 day ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Do you still have your custom made tools? This sounds interesting.

Yes! and it is getting worn out... Too many lamp sockets...
I need to get a new clincher made.

#1099 1 day ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Yes! and it is getting worn out... Too many lamp sockets...
I need to get a new clincher made.

pictures, please. Was it hard to make? How long of tube rivet do you have to use? So many of my bad sockets are just from the material at that brass washer getting loose and not making good contact. And I think the looseness is from the fiber insulation washer drying out and shrinking.

#1100 1 day ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

One more q, did you try LEDs in the GI? I'm using incandescents in the GI of my Funhouse and prefer it that way, all my others are LED.

I didn't try LEDs in the GI. I prefer the look of incandescents in QS. I had incandescents in my Funhouse too and never felt the need to change them to LEDs.

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