(Topic ID: 305129)

Quicksilver build is proceeding along.

By cottonm4

2 years ago


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  • 220 posts
  • 27 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 months ago by cottonm4
  • Topic is favorited by 30 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider barakandl.
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#173 1 year ago

Do you have the feature lamp bus wire connected to the lamp driver board? It is not in the picture and without it the lamps are going to flicker like crazy. Adjacent lamps will light dimly because when the feature lamp bus trace on the board is not connected to anything it is high Z and the you get back feed through the load resistors.

Included with lamp board is two or three pin connector. Attach it to LDB J5 and the feature lamp bus (6VDC).

Put the game in lamp test. If the 6vdc light on the lamp board is blinking totally on and off, you don't have the feature lamp bus connected right. If it is solid on (but dims slightly) in lamp test, you have it on right.

MPU J4 to driver J4 for wrong solenoids.

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#176 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

No. I don't have that. I seem to remember it now that you mention it but it must have gotten lost in the shuffle since I bought the boards some time ago. It looks like a standard .156 pin connector? Correct?
I can make one easily enough but which pin of the 3 is the active pin?
Thanks.

You can use any or all of the three pins. They are all electrically connected to each other and redundant. I changed it from two to three pins so it can't get easily mixed up with a bally sound board speaker plug.

J4 is designator for the connectors. All the solenoid signals go between mpu j4 and driver j4 connectors. When one solenoid BCD signal goes missing wrong solenoids fire. It comes up very often. Since you have new boards id suspect the female ends.

You can buzz continuity from mpu to driver the bcd signals or use a logic probe. Missing signal would stay always high during solenoid test on the driver board. The mpu board connector pins are labeled sol A, sol B and etc.

#178 1 year ago

The lower right plug on the driver board is J4. You will see the same SOL-A, SOL-B labeled pins there as MPU J4. The problem is more than likely between those two connectors since the boards are new. Bit D being the last wire on the end probably most likely one to be damaged on the MPU between leaking batteries and the harness getting tugged on by the wires stressed out the pins on the ends the most.

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If you lack logic probes another way to attack this is by the 74154 TRUTH table. The 74154 truth table tells how it should work. By comparing this table, which solenoids fire at what time during sol test, and the schematic to find what Q# goes to which 74154 output. You can identify the pattern that would happen when a signal is stuck always high. Because of the "pull up resistor" on the driver board, a bad connector for a ABCD signal will most likely be always high and never go low.

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Are you using a 7 digit display in the credit window? They are supposed to be six digit. Make sure you don't have the digit drives wires in the right place if it is a six digit display. If the rest of the displays are right, I think it would be a wiring issue.

#185 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

1) I do not have flipper operation. They are dead.
2) Some of the solenoids work in test mode.
I'll call later.
THanks.

Check MPU J4 to driver J4 using the wiring diagram. Stern did not publish one, but it should match a bally book. The connector pins are labeled on each replacement board you can check that the wire colors line up to the same labeled signal on each end. You might have every position shifted up or down one.

The flipper relay is controlled by Continual solenoid Q15

The credit display would need the digit drive wires shifted. By your results I think they are all off by one position 100s is going to the 10s pin. Wiriing diagram in a Bally book should help you figure this out. Even if stern did not use the same colors (i think they did) you should be able to line up everything. Digit drives should all match on each display. The credit display just does not use the millions drive, the rest are the same.

#190 1 year ago

In sol test can you hear the flipper relay click? Is the tilt light coming on?

#193 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I had not paid attention to that. When I get back on this I will let you know.
In the meantime, where is the flipper relay on the Weebly SDU board. I see a small reddish brown "box" soldered to the board that I assume is the relay. Is this correct?

yes. we are using a sealed 2formc style relay instead of the classic ice cube style. You can still hear it click. It might be white, orange, or black depending on what brand im currently using.

1 month later
#204 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I ran into a problem that cost me 24 hours. I had the pin up and running 100%. But I did not install one of my brackets correctly and had to remove the play field and relocate the bracket. And then when I put it back together two of my pops would not work. The short answer is that I swapped out the Weebly SDU board and swapped in my Alltek board and the problem went away, but it took me several hours of looking around before I swapped boards.
I have made contact with Andrew at Weebly. He has offered to replace the board but does not think that is the problem. He thinks I have a connector problem. And I think he could be right. After all, I used a 40 year old factory harness and re-pinned every connector, so there is room to consider a connector issue. I'll keep working with this and double checking the connector he advised me to look at.
==============================
I am enjoying the game play. There are lots of flipper friendly shots but I still get hammered.
I have played several games to see what I need to adjust and tweak for make for max game play. A friend will coming over this afternoon to put it through it paces. I'll be watching and taking notes.
The pops were a little tricky to adjust for max game action so I will be talking about that shortly.
For the spinners, I used a Dracula spinner and Nugent spinner that I had. These two spinners are on the lighter end of the spinner weight scale. They spin well and seem to be the perfect weight for Quicksilver. I would not use these spinners on my Big Game but they seem to work real good with Quicksilver; They "feel" balanced to the game play.
So for, the rubber washers I have placed under all of the posts appear to be doing a good job. I do not have any paint pooling issues around the posts.
And Oh yes, I made a blunder that I will be talking about in a little while.
I'll get some pics up later today.

From the look of the blowout, I'd guess the diodes fell off the coil and they got blown by a flyback spike? Probably not a dead short because there would be signs of overheating, looks like they just exploded.

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#206 1 year ago

I can fix it like new if you send it back.

If you want to have a go at it, with sharp flush cutters snip off the two legs of each transistor to electrically isolate it. Then you can install a through hole part without doing any desoldering.

IRL540 is the common part number you may have on hand, but you can use about any N power mostfet 15a 100v or better. 15N10, 17N10, 22N10, 40N10 are all generic parts with the same pin out.

Don't put another driver board until you figure out why that happened. The two power mosfet exploded for a good reason. They are rated at least three times more current than the rectifier fuse, so check that is not over fused. Take a good look at the coil diodes are on and pointing right direction. Those wires are not pinched somewhere. etc.

Probably EMF spike from the diode out of circuit or installed backwards would be my best guess.

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