Hi goldenboy232
hi hwyhed - thanks for the pictures - I took one (BX-Relay) and added snippets from the schematics. Switch-1 is in the schematics at A-5 or B-5, Switch-2 is at A-7, Switch-3 is around H-8 to I-9, Switch-4 is at E-10, Switch-5 is at F-13. In the JPG I believe to see on the right, towards us: switch-4 then comes switch-1 then comes switch-2. In the JPG on the left, towards us: switch-5 then switch-3.

goldenboy232 - i believe: When You unsolder wire-orange-green "JPG outmost-left wire / away from us looking at the picture, marked with an star" the pin NEVER gets to Game-Over. Want to try the unsoldering - to prove me "right or wrong" ? (((You then must toggle-off the pin at end of a game - toggle-on again)))

goldenboy, Mark --- Here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-with-quick-draw-powered-it-up-for-the-first-time#post-4364257 I had suggested +/- the same. Greetings Rolf

0Quick-Draw-pinside-BX-Relay-Work-01 (resized).jpg

Hi Mark
the situation is not good --- I was hoping for "doghair crap of wire fallen at the solder-lugs on the witch in BX-Relay making "faulty always contact". Hmm,
maybe AAA - an preowner made a creative wiring in the pin we do not see in the schematics
maybe BBB we interpret the colors of wires faulty or Gottlieb used other colors - we are on the wrong switch on BX-Relay
maybe CCC (not likely) - see the JPG in howard 's post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-with-quick-draw-powered-it-up-for-the-first-time#post-4357010 --- a line / wire comes downward into the JPG - comes in connecting-wire into "connection from Switch on BX-Relay connecting to Switch on O-Relay". You have unsoldered wire-orange-green --- the mentioned incoming wire comes to "other switchblade on the BX-Switch". A very little chance: Through this wire coming down comes faulty current flowing to make the Q-Relay to faulty pull-in.

Before getting into "chasing weird theories (AAA, BBB, CCC, maybe more) I write down what I believe I have read from Your topics --- question: Is the following true ?

Your pin is toggled-off so the Q-Relay (of course) is not pulling. You have the ball NOT in the Outhole. You toggle-on the pin and the Q-Relay pulls-in and stays pulling. You have the ball not in the Outhole - You start a game --- the pin resets and the Q-Relay quits pulling - is non-pulling - the resets comes to the end - the pin stands still - the motor is not running - the R-Relay is constantly pulling and the H-Relay is constantly pulling. The U-Relay is not pulling. The AX-Relay has actuated in the beginning of the start / reset - and the AX-Reset has actuated at the end of the start / reset. (The Q-Relay is not pulling) You close the Outhole-Switch between the flipperbats - the Out-Hole-Relay pulls-in and the motor starts running - the motor turns 120 degrees AND the Q-Relay faulty pulls-in and stays pulling. So the non-pulling Q-Relay is made (faulty) pulling when the O-Relay pulls-in and the motor runs.

Everything written above must be done in an running Quick Draw - but not done is the " AND the Q-Relay faulty pulls-in and stays pulling". Please accept me asking (words from a dix) "preventively / precaution / to be on the safe side". Greetings Rolf