I will have a look for you when i get home from work

I took a few pix golden boy..I hope that this might help you..the 1st few are for the BX relay..the last 2 are Of the O relay

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Maybe this too..

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Hi goldenboy232
hi hwyhed - thanks for the pictures - I took one (BX-Relay) and added snippets from the schematics. Switch-1 is in the schematics at A-5 or B-5, Switch-2 is at A-7, Switch-3 is around H-8 to I-9, Switch-4 is at E-10, Switch-5 is at F-13. In the JPG I believe to see on the right, towards us: switch-4 then comes switch-1 then comes switch-2. In the JPG on the left, towards us: switch-5 then switch-3.

goldenboy232 - i believe: When You unsolder wire-orange-green "JPG outmost-left wire / away from us looking at the picture, marked with an star" the pin NEVER gets to Game-Over. Want to try the unsoldering - to prove me "right or wrong" ? (((You then must toggle-off the pin at end of a game - toggle-on again)))

goldenboy, Mark --- Here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-with-quick-draw-powered-it-up-for-the-first-time#post-4364257 I had suggested +/- the same. Greetings Rolf

0Quick-Draw-pinside-BX-Relay-Work-01 (resized).jpg

Hi Mark
the situation is not good --- I was hoping for "doghair crap of wire fallen at the solder-lugs on the witch in BX-Relay making "faulty always contact". Hmm,
maybe AAA - an preowner made a creative wiring in the pin we do not see in the schematics
maybe BBB we interpret the colors of wires faulty or Gottlieb used other colors - we are on the wrong switch on BX-Relay
maybe CCC (not likely) - see the JPG in howard 's post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-with-quick-draw-powered-it-up-for-the-first-time#post-4357010 --- a line / wire comes downward into the JPG - comes in connecting-wire into "connection from Switch on BX-Relay connecting to Switch on O-Relay". You have unsoldered wire-orange-green --- the mentioned incoming wire comes to "other switchblade on the BX-Switch". A very little chance: Through this wire coming down comes faulty current flowing to make the Q-Relay to faulty pull-in.

Before getting into "chasing weird theories (AAA, BBB, CCC, maybe more) I write down what I believe I have read from Your topics --- question: Is the following true ?

Your pin is toggled-off so the Q-Relay (of course) is not pulling. You have the ball NOT in the Outhole. You toggle-on the pin and the Q-Relay pulls-in and stays pulling. You have the ball not in the Outhole - You start a game --- the pin resets and the Q-Relay quits pulling - is non-pulling - the resets comes to the end - the pin stands still - the motor is not running - the R-Relay is constantly pulling and the H-Relay is constantly pulling. The U-Relay is not pulling. The AX-Relay has actuated in the beginning of the start / reset - and the AX-Reset has actuated at the end of the start / reset. (The Q-Relay is not pulling) You close the Outhole-Switch between the flipperbats - the Out-Hole-Relay pulls-in and the motor starts running - the motor turns 120 degrees AND the Q-Relay faulty pulls-in and stays pulling. So the non-pulling Q-Relay is made (faulty) pulling when the O-Relay pulls-in and the motor runs.

Everything written above must be done in an running Quick Draw - but not done is the " AND the Q-Relay faulty pulls-in and stays pulling". Please accept me asking (words from a dix) "preventively / precaution / to be on the safe side". Greetings Rolf

Hi Rolf...I'm in awe of this annotated snippet of schematic tied to photo. My main problem wrapping my head around troubleshooting is not being able to translate the schematic to physical location in the game. Do you have any advice in general for how you created the snippet...besides years of experience. ?