I planned on making a set or plastic protectors very soon for my Rollergames project since the plastics are all decent and no longer available. Would like to see these answers!

#4 10 years ago

JRK

I carry PETG .060 so material is no biggie. If drawings are provided that is the best and quickest way to get these done, EPS files or CDR files are the best to work with. I can scan or work off scans it just takes a bit longer to do. The price depends on material + time, but it is a relatively inexpensive across the board. I just did a 5 piece set for Dr. Who and I am selling them for $15.00 shipped as an example.

SAM_1877.JPG

#5 10 years ago

TAB

terryb

Inactive member

Banning, CA

11y 90,150 4,795 14

Hey Ryan,

1. There are several differences between Lexan and PETG, but the important one is that Lexan is more brittle. I can't tell you if it's enough to make a huge difference, but I just stick with PETG.

2. For straight lines you can score and snap the PETG. For curves I use either a jigsaw or Dremel with a cutting wheel. With any power method stay at a low/med speed or you'll melt the plastic.

3. I clean up the edges (especially if I've used a jigsaw) with a file (jewelers files--I think that's what they're called--work great for the finish work) or a Dremel with an engraving cutter (looks like a mini router bit).

4. I finish up the edges with the Dremel, a buffing tool and white rouge.

I've seen a lot of people recommend using a woodworking kit, consisting of a soldering iron with an X-Acto blade. I've never had much luck with that technique, but maybe it's just me.

http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/pinball-restoration/ramps-and-plastics/186-recreating-plastics?highlight=WyJsZXhhbiJd

#6 10 years ago

TAB

terryb

Inactive member

Banning, CA

11y 90,150 4,795 14

If you haven't seen it, look at this post by Jeff Hecht.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-i-recreate-plastics#post-1289147

#7 10 years ago

REC

RyanClaytor

Pinside member

Holt, MI

12y 112K 4,375 13 14

Man...you guys are the best!

I love this place,
Ryan Claytor
Elephant Eater Comics
www.ElephantEater.com

#8 10 years ago

JRK

Laseriffic

Inactive member

12y 65,050 2,883 3

Quoted from terryb:
Hey Ryan,
1. There are several differences between Lexan and PETG, but the important one is that Lexan is more brittle. I can't tell you if it's enough to make a huge difference, but I just stick with PETG.
2. For straight lines you can score and snap the PETG. For curves I use either a jigsaw or Dremel with a cutting wheel. With any power method stay at a low/med speed or you'll melt the plastic.
3. I clean up the edges (especially if I've used a jigsaw) with a file (jewelers files--I think that's what they're called--work great for the finish work) or a Dremel with an engraving cutter (looks like a mini router bit).
4. I finish up the edges with the Dremel, a buffing tool and white rouge.
I've seen a lot of people recommend using a woodworking kit, consisting of a soldering iron with an X-Acto blade. I've never had much luck with that technique, but maybe it's just me.
http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/pinball-restoration/ramps-and-plastics/186-recreating-plastics?highlight=WyJsZXhhbiJd

Holy Smokes is that alot of work.. Lasers are the way to go here.

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