(Topic ID: 467)

Question or two on repairing ST:TNG - (still getting my feet wet.)

By VT8man

14 years ago



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  • 8 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 years ago by VT8man
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#1 14 years ago

I'm starting to troubleshoot the resetting problem that happens occasionally when both flippers are pressed. I bought it this way, so first read some info from the following like. (P.S. - I love the links at the bottom of this site for help http://www.marvin3m.com/fix.htm) I like it for a beginner, it really helps. This may be a bit long-winded so bear with me.

My question is not about the flippers yet...I replaced the AA batteries in the CPU board because there was some corrosion from the batteries when I bought it.

I used Deoxit from Radio Shack to remove the hardened battery acid from the terminal leads, which worked pretty well. I've used it on other electronic components, so unless someone says NOOOOO!!! I think it works well. It doesn't look like the acid screwed anything else up. To get the game to play, I needed to add service credits with the coin door buttons because the dead batteries keep resetting the game to factory settings.

Now I turn the game on, and when I first opened the coin door the test menu went straight to bookkeeping and started scrolling through the options by itself, until it reaches the end of the bookkeeping menu options. This happens right after the test mode displays the date & time need to be set, and this is the only warning. Like someone was rapidly pounding on the scrolling buttons it scrolls to the end of the bookkeeping menu and just keeps beeping, it's impossible to back out of the menu. I closed the door because you couldn't navigate the menus this way at all. I was just going to set it to free play and the date & time. I loaded the game up with 10 service credits, because it stops scrolling if you close the coin door and reopen it. The volume can be adjusted, but you can't get it out of attract mode, basically like the enter button (the coin door button on the far right) doesn't work. Looks like all the leads under the buttons are connected. I played for about an hour with no reset at this point. Even trying to reproduce it, couldn't get it to happen. (I'm assuming this will happen again.) Occasionally while the door was shut, you could hear the game trying to add service credits over 10. This stopped after short time.

Could just changing out the batteries fix this resetting problem? Is this is in the continuity of the watchdog chip on the CPU board, if the game is on? (Which I'm figuring is dropping below the 4.7V to cause the reset. So I'm thinking the problem deeper.)

My second question is does the interlock switch on the coin door need to be activated to get into the test menus? From the manual it mentions this breaks the connection to the 50V and 20V winding of the secondary transformer, so I don't think this has anything to do with the coin door button problem. Looking like a problem with the "enter" coin door button or the "Up" (+) button. I guess the switch for it enters the menu options, then it just continually scrolls to the end of the bookkeeping menu.

Sorry this is long-winded, but seems like I have a few things going on at once here.

#2 14 years ago

My guesses.... The resetting when hitting both flippers at the same time = BR2 rectifier... read more here

Service menu problem....Buy a new service menu switch...(the one with the 4 buttons on it)

And the interlock switch makes sure no high voltage runs to the coils and flashers so you won´t get electricuted while the coindoor is open. All other tests then the ones involving a flasher or a coil will work with the coindoor open. If you wanna do a coil/flacher test. Press the two switches down and keep your fingers away

JW from Sweden

#3 14 years ago

I want to say something about battery leaking.

I once discovered battery leakage in my Medieval Madness after it had started to act strange. I was getting weird sounds, and occasionally my DMD would go blank or garbled and stuff like that. I think the acids that had leaked down on the board were acting as a conductor and shorting pins of the cpu. (Isn't it nice that the battery holder hangs above all the chips and cpu's and all - like building a nuclear plant in the middle of New York city).

After recovering from my initial shock (trust me, battery acid on a Medieval Madness cpu board WILL cause your heart to skip some beats), I took out the cpu board and desoldered the battery holder. Then I cleaned up all of the corroded mess with a toothbrush and some vinegar. I even left the complete battery holder for an overnight swim in a bowl of vinegar (which gives nice bubbles by the way).

After drying everything out I made the battery holder 'external' via two wires and attached it to the side of the backbox. This sucker will never mess up my board again.

All in all, a highly recommended procedure!

#4 14 years ago

As for the coindoor buttons, you could try to clean them out and "re-flow" the soldering. If that doesn't work, just buy some new buttons. It comes as a complete assembly with the four buttons on it.

But keep in mind that this problem could also be related to the battery acid mess on your board which (as I said above) will cause crazy stuff to happen.

#5 14 years ago

Thanks Robin, since today is my birthday. (I'm not boasting, just ready to party.) I've been playing since 07:00, (ok that's only 3 hrs. at this point, but there's plenty of day left) and no reset. I haven't touched the coin door buttons yet, because well...I've been able to play multiple games w/o reset for the first time since buying it, so I'm taking advantage of it. I just try for Warp 9 most of the time.

I'll have to order the buttons, but you are right there is a little weirdness:

1. Occasionally it doesn't recognize a lost ball. Spits one out of the ball diverter on the left and you can keep playing.
2. Occasionally it spits a second ball out of the same diverter while playing. (Bonus 2-ball "I didn't make a shot" multiball.)
3. The flipping menu...

But the resetting has stopped for now...I'll look again to see if there was more damage from the acid, but mostly it was just on the bottom terminals.

I've read some of the Marvin guides? http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/index.htm#station
They mention to get an auto-ranging soldering station where I can set the temperature to 600-700F, (315 - 370C). I have a 25W iron, kinda el cheapo Weller compared to what these guys talk about. They seem to say use the station for PCB repair, but should I use this everywhere just to be safe? I figure the Weller can be used for playfield hardware (less delicate work), like these buttons, and use the station for the PCB work. It seems like the only disadvantage to the 25W iron is the temperature is really high if nothing is being soldered. Once you touch metal with it, there's a huge temp. variance that can damage other parts.

Should I just not bother with the 25W anywhere on the machine?

#6 14 years ago

You seem to be getting excellent advice so I only want to offer up one more tip. When soldering on your machine lay an old towel or cloth over everything at the bottom of the cabinet. No matter how good you are you will drip solder. You do need a higher temp iron as the lugs will act as heat sinks. You don't need an expensive station. Just buy a plug in iron with a big tip rated at 700F. I solder every day at work for the last 23 years.

And HAPPY BIRTHDAY !!!

#7 14 years ago

You seem to be getting excellent advice so I only want to offer up one more tip. When soldering on your machine lay an old towel or cloth over everything at the bottom of the cabinet. No matter how good you are you will drip solder. You do need a higher temp iron as the lugs will act as heat sinks. You don't need an expensive station. Just buy a plug in iron with a big tip rated at 700F. I solder every day at work for the last 23 years.

And HAPPY BIRTHDAY !!!

birthday_cake.gifbirthday_cake.gif

#8 14 years ago

Right on! I see where whoever worked on the STTNG did that where the opto board for the ball trough has been replaced. (Old owner's first name is written on it) Looks like a shiny silver bird turd. Maybe I should put a candle in it and make a wish. Thanks for the cake!

I was curious about the tool, because I figured the plug-in iron gets you away from a table or workbench. You can work on the pin w/o removing everything. Sounds like the station would be good if I was doing a lot of work.

Warp 9.3 and no reset yet.

Added a few pics of the trophy I won in 1978....(actually it's disappeared, but my mom had one made for my birthday...it's like I'm 6 again...) I put the replacement flippers and old balls around it for added cheese.

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