Hi, I'm working on a later 40's flipperless ESCO machine currently. Have had to go through pretty much every assembly so far.

The tilt bob assembly was very oxidized so decided to clean off, and the wire soldered to the rod broke off at lug.

Any advice on replacing the wire?

I planned on using some thin solder wick as a replacement, but was unsure of the power handling...

Also, I cleaned up the original graphite bob (and planned to just keep original if I can), but it is pretty pitted up. Is there any problem with using this still? Or could it cause unsafe amount of sparking or anything?

Thank guys!

And if this had already been a covered topic, feel free to point me to it; I did attempt to search first but didn't see anything.

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Thanks guys!

I like the idea Ken. Unfortunately, the entire wire is pretty nasty, so probably wind up having to go with solder wick.

I will try cleaning it up first and see how it goes, but it's almost crumbly weak. Probably with a new lug though, either way.

Thanks Boilerman, I'm glad it has been used safely by someone else already
I just wasn't too sure on voltage/current issues etc on these older games.

I will admit, the original seems more like round wire and more soft/flexible than solder wick, but maybe not if I dig out some thinner wick than what I typically use on boards...

Ok, so I tried Ken's way, and it did work nicely....Unfortunately, as I had worried, the wire was really weak and just broke again a little further down with only a few light flexes.

After 3 extra attempts with solder wick, I got a somewhat decent job done.

Twisting up some solder wick definitely helped make it more of a wire. I was having a heck of a time keeping solder from wicking too far up with all the heat on the rod. Stupid solder wick, who would have guessed it would wick solder!

I left it a little longer than original and that seemed to help loosen up the swing a little. I almost did it again because, even with that, I stiffened up the wick with solder too dang far on lug end too. But I think it will be okay for now. Once game is done and working (I know it wont be soon...), I'll be probably telling myself to redo it again, though. Lol.

I only say that because I want it to be as loose swinging as it was originally intended, being a flipperless game.

As far as worrying about the pitted up graphite bob, I guess it doesn't matter now; As the threads for the thumb screw crumbled out. So I'll be keeping an eye out for one or eventually have to look into a newer type one I guess.

Thanks again guys

On to the next connector or assembly...

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Was just looking at new plumb bobs.....I see Marco has at least half a dozen different ones.

I honestly have no idea what to get for this machine since none look like mine. Was hoping to keep more original, but functionality is best over all.

If I can't decide/guess on one, I may just go with pinball life instead as they only offer one (that I saw), and I'll probably save a little on shipping.

Anybody have any other specific suggestions??

Edit : The original one is only about 3/4" long and mounts upside down (largest portion on top). It is essentially like the fatter half end of a normal one. It mounts right up against the bottom of the cabinet...

I may need to start a separate thread for this question specifically in the older pins section(s) im guessing...

If so, I will once I get assembly put back together so I candoubt show what I mean.

Okay, well....to answer my own question (for now, in case someone has the right answer)...

I wound up scrounging and came up with a more modern and typical size/shaped bob.
It was pretty chunked up already, so thought what the heck.

I went ahead and cut it down; but since the fatter end had flats on sides and original one was fully tapered top to bottom, I measured diameters of taper, and cut the other one down to allow me approximately the same range of adjustment. I considered turning the whole thing down, but REALLY didn't want the mess or that much in the air.

The extra height/length at larger end is okay as it can be slid farther away from tilt ring, but I'm sure the extra mass will have at least some affect on the pendulum effect of the assembly. Guessing a reduction in swing, actually, since it mounts upside down from how most are. Not reinstalled yet, but kind of held in place for a pic of what I mean.

All in all, not perfect, but not horrible I hope either.

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