(Topic ID: 242040)

Question on non-working (very dim) lower GI on Whirlwind


By Pinball_Gizzard

6 months ago



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  • 57 posts
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  • Latest reply 6 months ago by Pinball_Gizzard
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There are 57 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 6 months ago

You can prove that the header and/or trace is the problem by installing jumper wires. I try to figure out the cause of the problem. If after installing the new board your issue still exists the new board hasn't solved the problem. You still have the problem to deal with.

On the other hand you have a brand spanking shiny new board in the machine that will last for years to come.

#52 6 months ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

You can prove that the header and/or trace is the problem by installing jumper wires. I try to figure out the cause of the problem. If after installing the new board your issue still exists the new board hasn't solved the problem. You still have the problem to deal with.
On the other hand you have a brand spanking shiny new board in the machine that will last for years to come.

I thought about that, would you just solder a wire from the fuse over to the pin on the back of the board then?

#53 6 months ago

Just follow whatever the schematic says. Usually (not always) the schematics in the Williams manuals are correct. I think there might be a thread on here with documented errors in the schematics. The interconnect board is fairly simple though. It's mostly pass-through.

#54 6 months ago

Without reading The Whole thread:

I had this same issue. It turned out to be a little relay at the bottom of the pf underneath. Cold solder joints.

#55 6 months ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Without reading The Whole thread:
I had this same issue. It turned out to be a little relay at the bottom of the pf underneath. Cold solder joints.

I looked at that relay already and reheated those joints. Any other way to check?

#56 6 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

I looked at that relay already and reheated those joints. Any other way to check?

What I did was to turn the game on, and pop the pf up and basically gently jiggle the connector on those relays, and magically the lights popped back on. I knew then it was cold joints. And remember, I think there are a couple gi relays in these pins. So check all of them. The one I had an issue with was on the very bottom of the underside of the pf.. I think right side.

Can't hurt to jiggle things a bit and see if lights pop back on. ALSO, I'm sure you've reseated the GI connectors, but also try pushing in their wiring a bit into the connector. Sometimes the connector can be seated well, but the wiring isn't firmly pressed into the little groove on said connector. I don't know how many times in system 11 games this was the case.

Let me know if this makes sense. SOmetimes it's hard to explain in writing what to do.

ANOTHER THING: just because you reheated the joints, you could still have an issue with the female side of the connector, such as wiring not being pushed into the connector well enough. Jiggle things.

#57 6 months ago

It’s ALIVE!!!

New board came in today and all is well after installation. I ran out of blue for the back glass so I have some placeholder LEDs in there until I make my next order from Comet but you get the idea:

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