(Topic ID: 237133)

Question on IDC connector replacement


By Calipindave

5 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by robertmee
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 5 months ago

Hi guys. I’m going to replace a number of the IDC connectors in my EBD with molex style.

A number of the IDC wires loop through the connectors. These wires must be daisy chained and continue on elsewhere.

How do I add a pin style connector on the end of the wire and handle the other side of the wire that continues on?

Does this make sense?

Dave

#2 5 months ago
Quoted from Calipindave:

Hi guys. I’m going to replace a number of the IDC connectors in my EBD with molex style.
A number of the IDC wires loop through the connectors. These wires must be daisy chained and continue on elsewhere.
How do I add a pin style connector on the end of the wire and handle the other side of the wire that continues on?
Does this make sense?
Dave

Put 2 wire ends into one crimped pin.

Have done this many times, esp rebuilding GI connectors on games like T2.

RM

#3 5 months ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

Put 2 wire ends into one crimped pin.
Have done this many times, esp rebuilding GI connectors on games like T2.
RM

Thank you Russ. I get what you you are saying. How can I fit two wire ends into one crimped pin. Aren’t the molex pins size dependent on the wire gauge. Will the crimp fit around the insulation of both wires. ?

Dave

#4 5 months ago

Or you can split the single wire into 2.

Whichever you like best.

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#5 5 months ago

I would suggest a ratcheting crimper. Will make this project that much simpler!!

#6 5 months ago
Quoted from heni1977:

I would suggest a ratcheting crimper.

Definitely getting one. I have crimpers without and know that the job will be better with.
Dave

#7 5 months ago

Often 2 sizes of female crimp connectors are available.

Maybe like 22ga and 18ga.

So use the larger gauge (18ga) if you are crimping 2 wires in the same contact.

Molex does not officially rate those crimps for 2 wires, but I've done it many times.

Crash course in crimping:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-re-populating-playfields#post-4545041

#8 5 months ago
Quoted from kpull:

Or you can split the single wire into 2.
Whichever you like best.
[quoted image]

I have done this many times.

#9 5 months ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Often 2 sizes of female crimp connectors are available.
Maybe like 22ga and 18ga.
So use the larger gauge (18ga) if you are crimping 2 wires in the same contact.
Molex does not officially rate those crimps for 2 wires, but I've done it many times.
Crash course in crimping:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-re-populating-playfields#post-4545041

Thank you vid and everyone.

I have some crimp contacts rated for 18. I will see if that works.

Dave

#10 5 months ago

I don't like crimping two wires into one pin. Especially on GI connectors that already use 18awg wire. A better solution for me is to solder a second wire to the pinned wire with appropriate heat shrink.

5 months later
#11 7 days ago

I have a small intermittent issue on my CFTBL whereby the first 'S' in KISS will occasionally go dark and by wiggling the connector wires it comes on again and works for awhile and then will go dark again. I would like to replace the IDC connector with a Molex type connector with Trifurcon pins to provide a more reliable connection so that the first 'S' lights up 100 percent of the time when it should.

Three of the loop through wires on the IDC connector were very frayed (only one strand was not broken) so I spliced, soldered and heat shrink wrapped the 3 damaged wires and punched them back into the IDC connector. After performing this repair I am still having an intermittent problem with the 'S' not lighting up on the KISS inserts.

The PCB tests out fine without any continuity issues on all 8 pins so I have ruled the board out as a cause of this intermittent problem. Prior to replacing the IDC connector with a Molex type connector I need some advice on how to handle the 4 loop through wires on this connector.

Do I crimp two wires into one pin or is there a better solution?

Gord

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#12 7 days ago

Wiggling the connector and the fact it works awhile then stops indicates to me a cracked solder joint on the header pin on the board. Heat cycles cause that joint to expand/contract.

Pull the board and reflow all the header pins with some fresh solder.

#13 7 days ago
Quoted from robertmee:

Wiggling the connector and the fact it works awhile then stops indicates to me a cracked solder joint on the header pin on the board. Heat cycles cause that joint to expand/contract.
Pull the board and reflow all the header pins with some fresh solder.

Thanks Robert. I will post a follow-up after re-flowing some fresh solder on the header pins that drive the first 'S' on the KISS PCB and testing it out.

When I used a DMM to test continuity on the board it all tested fine, but it sounds like the heat cycling through the header pin joint is causing the intermittent issue due to the solder expanding and contracting. Would this be correct?

Gord

#14 6 days ago

After playing 5 games the first 'S' in KISS lights and stays lit when it should be lit. This is a small sample test, but prior to re-flowing solder on header pin 1 of the KISS PCB the first 'S' would flicker and go dark in 1-2 games.

Prior to re-flowing solder on header pin 1 of the KISS PCB I performed a visual inspection of header pin 1 with a magnifying glass and I could see that the solder was slightly cracked. I believe that re-flowing solder on header pin 1 has fixed my issue.

Thanks again Robert.

Gord

#15 6 days ago

Glad it seems to have solved your issue.

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