(Topic ID: 142458)

Question: Is a "Sample" FH still a "Sample" if the PF is replaced?

By BestShot31

4 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 14 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by dsuperbee
  • No one calls this topic a favorite


Linked Games

#1 4 years ago

I have a "Sample" Funhouse version that was not a Diamond Plated version, it was a mylared version.
However, the mylar wore out in a few places and when removed, it left a lot of glue residue that is hard to get entirely off.

So, I'm considering replacing the rare sample funhouse playfield with a remake funhouse playfield. Does the PF replacement ruin or decrease the original sample version's value? I personally don't put much weight in the sample collector's value. Am I doing something I will regret? The cabinet is also faded and needs decals.

#2 4 years ago

It would be the same as taking an any original machine and replacing the playfield, it's not longer original! Most sample games have differences on the playfield so if you swap the pf you are also losing those anomalies it may have!

#3 4 years ago

Hmmm... That's a good point as the Funhouse boards are actually different than the regular/standard run version. For example, I cannot use the updated sound or cpu ROMs.

I'm not entirely sure about the differences in the actual playfield, if any. I better check, or does anyone know?

#4 4 years ago

I think the prototypes had an extra STEPS target/insert, but I don't know about sample games, you can see information about one here: http://www.hsapinball.com/HSA_PINBALL/hsa34.html

If you're having trouble with mylar gunk removal I'd recommend trying citrus oil (IN THE MOST HIDDEN SPOT POSSIBLE, AT YOUR OWN RISK, ETC.) because I've had great luck with that the two times I removed mylar. Something like this: amazon.com link »

#5 4 years ago

No, the sample Funhouse did not have an extra STEPS target, at least mine does not. The serial number on my FH designates it as a later run sample version.

#6 4 years ago

Unless there is some other damage to the playfield, I would just try removing the glue left behind by the mylar and keep the original playfield. I am getting ready to remove some mylar glue from one of my games using 91% or higher isopropyl alcohol, some flour and a plastic razor blade. This will be much less work than replacing the playfield, and it will probably increase the value of the game because it will have the original playfield and it will play faster without the mylar.

#7 4 years ago

then it's the same as a production one and nobody would care. If there are differences, then it would matter.

#8 4 years ago

It would then be a sample FH with a replacement playfield, I think?

If you're lucky, you can find one of those bogus Diamond Plate logo ones. Then you'd have a sample FH with a replacement playfield that says DP but isn't!

But yeah, I'd make sure you couldn't get the glue off first.

#9 4 years ago

if you really need the diamondplate logo, it's not hard to put it on and clear it. Once you clearcoat a field, diamondplate doesn't mean shit anyway. Clearcoat is clearcoat.

#10 4 years ago

I'm just rankled that those repro PFs were made with the logo, when I own the real thing myself! It's the closest thing to a rare pin I own. (It's a German reimport.) I did forget about it when responding to the rare pin MGC thread... maybe I'll bring it.

Although, the clear didn't even stop the kickout from making a divot! And someone mylared the clock area in a half-assed attempt at smoothing out the raised inserts! I've since leveled them but am leery of taking off the mylar. Some of the clock numbers are chipped and I fear more of them would come off with the mylar. Maybe I'll just have it restored professionally someday. But meanwhile I don't think it'd win any prizes at MGC!

#11 4 years ago

but the diamond plate did save your playfield better than most. making yours cheaper and easier to restore than someones that isn't. the more and more games get restored. The less special and valuable, nice original games become. It's just the nature of the beast. That's why prototypes that have major changes, will always be different than the restored originals. But even those, like ES, have the mods done to them, and nobody cares about the proto anymore.

#12 4 years ago

I tried the 91% isopropyl alcohol, flour and credit card scrapping method and ended up using my thumb for most of the removal and had painful blisters for week. However, it was only 50% effective in removing the darn glue residue. As a result, the glue residue is thinner, but still present on most of the main playfield area. Especially difficult are the glue residue over the inserts in the clock area. I also tried the goo gone and acetone. I have not tried using a hair dryer, good gone and scrapping yet, which I've been told may work better.

#13 4 years ago

i used denatured rubbing alcohol and magic eraser. I think it does a better job getting off the glue. I let it sit there for about 15-20 min, pooled on. Starts to eat the glue off. Sometimes a nice thick guitar pick works great too.

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

Although, the clear didn't even stop the kickout from making a divot! And someone mylared the clock area in a half-assed attempt at smoothing out the raised inserts

Clear is not some magical mystery substance the will stop all wear. You are still talking about metal on wood, and metal will win every time.

The Mylar could have gone down before the inserts started raising.

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