(Topic ID: 56446)

Question for other Bally Wizard! owners

By Heretic_9

6 years ago

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  • 53 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Classic_Stern
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#51 6 years ago
Quoted from Pin-it:

Easy access.
Scroll just below the words Bally Connectors.>> http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#connect
Notorious issue with the connector mounted on the tilt assembly
on Capt. Fantastic. Info and photo!
A scuff pad or sandpaper will clean the pins,or splice time.
Hope thats the fix.
Radio shack carries the little fuse branded fuse holders (strong plastic)or pinball resource has them too.

Thanks. I take it these are something other than the Jones plugs connections ? When I first got the game, I carefully cleaned the male ends for all three Jones plugs (at the end that connects into the back box; the other end of these, down well inside the table, are not at all easy to get at) with 99 % alcohol. There were no lights problems, until very recently.

7 months later
#52 5 years ago

I'm going to try to update this thread I started, even at this late date. I tried to do so -- several times -- shortly after the date of my last post to this thread, but these kept timing out instead of going through. Almost like it was a locked thread, though more likely a forum software glitch.

Anyway, there was a dead fuse, and replacing that took care of the "all lights out in the backglass." A few remain out, and must be bad lamp sockets, since new bulbs did not help.

A very good tech I know adjusted some targets, and advised me to apply a square of foam weather stripping behind that center target. I'm not sure I did that as well as it can be done, but the problem diminished greatly. There have still been a couple instances like what was shown in the "stuck after airball" pic, but those shots mostly just bounce off the center target now. My thanks again to Pafasa and the other Pinsiders who posted their advice.

#53 5 years ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

Interesting. It's even better than my "9.5" would suggest, because any imperfections are tiny and in peripheral, unimportant (non-artwork) areas.
How common was this: are there many other notable, vintage tables whose backglasses tend to have held up this well ? (In the general run of things with older tables, you hear so many mentions of flaking paint . . . . )
Speaking of the bulbs, per some advice I was given I bought a couple boxes of the #47s, and just got the Mill tool for removing and replacing bulbs. I'm hoping there may be some "trick", a visual giveaway on identifying which bulbs are shot in the back box, even when the game is not On.

The reason these held up well is because they were not removed from the machine when service was needed. When they changed to front panel service. Nobody knew what to do with the backglass. This was a bad move but where else to you put the electronics? Tough call. This was ultimately a cost savings.

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