(Topic ID: 56446)

Question for other Bally Wizard! owners


By Heretic_9

6 years ago



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There are 53 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 6 years ago

I'm wondering if these things are *normal.*

1) The small Game Credits indicator reel only goes up to 5 ? No exceptions -- no how, no way. Or, should it go any higher, meaning there is something wrong with that reel ?

2) Airballs tend to ricochet off the playfield glass, in the vicinity of the central 300 / 3000 target ?

3) From time to time, I even have the ball get stuck on top of that center target's plastic cover. The only cure for that condition seems to be sliding down the playfield glass, until the ball rolls off. This has happened more than a few times, to the point where I've considered gluing a clear plexiglass wedge piece to the top of that plastic, with the absolute minimum amount of clearance that would just allow the playfield glass to continue sliding on and off.

#2 6 years ago

No, none of that is normal.

1) Another Pinsider had a similar problem on a Space Mission recently. See this comment and following for helpful info:
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-mission-tempermental-start-up#post-968820

2) Airballs? At no point should the ball be hitting the playfield glass.

3) I don't understand the chain of events leading up to the situation you're describing, but it sounds like hot sauce on bananas to me. Don't glue plastic anything on top of anything -- figure out why you're ricocheting pinballs around so hard and then make them stop doing that.

#3 6 years ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

The small Game Credits indicator reel only goes up to 5 ? No exceptions -- no how, no way. Or, should it go any higher, meaning there is something wrong with that reel ?

Take the back off, look at the credit wheel. It should go to 20 or 25. You will see to coils on the credit stepper unit, one steps up the other steps down. Manually step up the credit unit, make sure it steps past five mechanically. Now step it to four and check the positions of the switches, now move to five, have the switches changed state?

Quoted from Heretic_9:

Airballs tend to ricochet off the playfield glass, in the vicinity of the central 300 / 3000 target ?

Air balls do happen. Can be caused by miss adjusted play field item. Pop bumpers that have worn uneven can kick the ball up. But don’t worries you won’t break the glass.

Quoted from Heretic_9:

From time to time, I even have the ball get stuck on top of that center target's plastic cover.

Balls do get stuck from time to time, not meant to but they do. There is a thread on Pinside on where have you stuck your balls!! You ponder on how the ball even got in some of the places.

PS Welcome to the best pinball site ever - PINSIDE

#4 6 years ago

I believe the Bally credit wheels have a pin that threads into the side of them limiting how far it rotates(for example, stopping at 5, 10, 15 etc) before hitting it's End of Travel switch stack. Remove and reposition that pin to whatever number you like.

The airball is likely from that standup target, bend it so it's facing down a bit, that may help.

Regarding ball getting stuck, is that from the airballs? wow.

#5 6 years ago
Quoted from MrArt2u:

I believe the Bally credit wheels have a pin that threads into the side of them limiting how far it rotates(for example, stopping at 5, 10, 15 etc)

I didn’t know that the stop pin is moveable, I’ll have to check mine out. Thanks

#6 6 years ago
Quoted from MrArt2u:

I believe the Bally credit wheels have a pin that threads into the side of them limiting how far it rotates(for example, stopping at 5, 10, 15 etc) before hitting it's End of Travel switch stack.

From my Bally Qb owners manual.

Bally_credit_pin.JPG

#7 6 years ago

Thanks much for all your comments and suggestions.

I've been meaning to open the backbox again (have had this -- my first pin -- for less than a month at this point) to replace a few dead bulbs, so I'll check out that credits reel at the same time. It's such a small reel that I thought it possible it might not go up to double digits.

Yes, those stuck-on-top-of-center-target incidents must have been the result of airballs, but ones that just stuck immediately rather than hit and ricocheted. Fortunately, this has been a fairly rare occurrence. I will look into adjusting that target.

This pin came to me with a surprisingly good backglass -- I'd say 9.5 out of 10. The playfield was probably more like an 8.5, as I've already needed to do some minor repairs. I think I may have felt an electric tingle brushing my arm against the open coin door (not actually a shock), but that was enough to indicate to me I may not want to do any serious work on this while it is plugged in, should that become necessary. Wondering if a qualified electrician would know what to check out on this, safety-wise, or if even pin techs are that knowledgeable about the electrical side. (As long as the coin door is closed, there has not been any such issue re the ON switch, Start button, or other exterior metal.)

#8 6 years ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

Wondering if a qualified electrician would know what to check out on this, safety-wise, or if even pin techs are that knowledgeable about the electrical side.

Read this from top to bottom and you will have more knowledge on repairs and troubleshooting. http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm

#9 6 years ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

This pin came to me with a surprisingly good backglass -- I'd say 9.5 out of 10.

Not surprising at all....Don't know why or what inks were used or whether the GI bulbs were such they never got hot, but I've seen roughly 1/2 dozen Wizard BG's and they've all been perfect. It's one BG that seems to never have suffered paint loss.

#10 6 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

Not surprising at all....Don't know why or what inks were used or whether the GI bulbs were such they never got hot, but I've seen roughly 1/2 dozen Wizard BG's and they've all been perfect. It's one BG that seems to never have suffered paint loss.

Interesting. It's even better than my "9.5" would suggest, because any imperfections are tiny and in peripheral, unimportant (non-artwork) areas.

How common was this: are there many other notable, vintage tables whose backglasses tend to have held up this well ? (In the general run of things with older tables, you hear so many mentions of flaking paint . . . . )

Speaking of the bulbs, per some advice I was given I bought a couple boxes of the #47s, and just got the Mill tool for removing and replacing bulbs. I'm hoping there may be some "trick", a visual giveaway on identifying which bulbs are shot in the back box, even when the game is not On.

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

I'm hoping there may be some "trick", a visual giveaway on identifying which bulbs are shot in the back box, even when the game is not On.

Replace them all! Those bulbs are 15 cents each. You can do the whole machine for 15 bucks and not have to think about it again for at least a few years.

#12 6 years ago

From my Bally Qb owners manual.

Thanks.

I took a look at the reel, and it's unclear to me: the stock pic I'll try to attach seems to show the wrong side of it, or a not-so-useful angle, as far as where the action seems to be. There is a wire that wraps around and around the inner hub of the reel, and has a sort of curved end that goes through (one of a few) holes in the reel at its other end. And there is a round metal peg that goes through one of a few other holes in the reel. Or that peg may not be moveable, and has something else to do with the mechanics of the reel ? I'm not sure which of these needs to be repositioned through a different hole, in order to select a different max # of possible credits ? If necessary, I'll try to take a better snapshot myself, if my description was not adequate.

Multi_credits.jpg

#13 6 years ago
Quoted from textrivers:

Replace them all! Those bulbs are 15 cents each. You can do the whole machine for 15 bucks and not have to think about it again for at least a few years.

Great point ! It looks like the backglass must be removed, in order to get at all or most of those bulbs. Removing that glass panel also looks like something not so easy to do. Best not to have to do this again for as long as possible.

#14 6 years ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

Best not to have to do this again for as long as possible.

That's my feeling about it too. Keep in mind that bulbs love burning out as soon as you replace any pieces of glass or plastic that cover them, particularly if those pieces of glass or plastic are hard to remove and replace.

Here's a nifty trick: use the open end of a shooter-tip rubber to grip the bulbs when you pull them out and put in new ones. You'll save your hours of wear and tear on your fingers and you won't get oils all over the glass (oils can speed up he burn-out time). Good luck, & post a shiny photo when you finish!

#15 6 years ago

Question for you, Heretic_9, why do you need more than 5 credits on it? Is it not set to free play? That would likely be easier to do then moving that pin.

#16 6 years ago
Quoted from MrArt2u:

Question for you, Heretic_9, why do you need more than 5 credits on it? Is it not set to free play? That would likely be easier to do then moving that pin.

Yes, it is set to free play. Strictly speaking, there is no "need" for more than 5. (Except perhaps as a relative reminder of a particularly good last session. It looks like that reel goes up to at least 25.) That said, I would in any case like to learn HOW to change it, even if I just decide to leave it alone, which I might well do.

So, it *was* that round pin ?

#17 6 years ago

Unscrew the pin. Thread it in to the hole that allows 25 credits.

#18 6 years ago
Quoted from MrBally:

Unscrew the pin. Thread it in to the hole that allows 25 credits.

Yes, this! If you are unsure which pin, post a pic of the unit looking straight down the shaft on the switch side. (Opposite of the white reel side). We can guide you from there.

#19 6 years ago

Yes, this! If you are unsure which pin, post a pic of the unit looking straight down the shaft on the switch side. (Opposite of the white reel side). We can guide you from there.

Ah, so the pin unscrews rather than being Pull - Push. That's already more than I knew before.

Here are a couple of shots that I hope give enough detail. Sorry for their being kinda blurry: not-so-good phone-camera + flashlight instead of a flash.

There is one hole on the other side of that wheel grabber / caliper piece (unseen here), and two or three more going counter-clockwise. It almost looks like the pin blocks further travel of the reel in that direction. (?)

Wiz_Cr_Reel_rev-1.jpg Wiz_Cr_Reel_rev-3.jpg

#20 6 years ago

I have just taken a pic of the pin on my Credit unit.
Looks like it is just screwed in to the ratch gear, but looking at mine I think there should be a washer and nut on the back side.
It’s not a good pic, but you can see the thread sticking out the back of the gear.

Help.jpg

#21 6 years ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

Ah, so the pin unscrews rather than being Pull - Push. That's already more than I knew before.
Here are a couple of shots that I hope give enough detail. Sorry for their being kinda blurry: not-so-good phone-camera + flashlight instead of a flash.
There is one hole on the other side of that wheel grabber / caliper piece (unseen here), and two or three more going counter-clockwise. It almost looks like the pin blocks further travel of the reel in that direction. (?)

Ok. The metal pin on the gear that is pushing on the switch stack looks like the max credit pin. The other pin is molded into the gear itself, right? I don't have a Bally credit unit in front of me and it would be worth waiting for someone else to confirm this, but here goes.

Notice all the holes in the gear around the outside edge. Look closely at those holes and I bet you will find that they are threaded. If so, I bet you can unscrew the metal pin and move it to one of those holes. Each hole is going to give you a different max credit. Let us know how you come out.

#22 6 years ago

Just saw this on ipdb.org

Someone did a really nice job of color coding and redrawing the schematic!

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2803/Bally_1975_Wizard_Schematic.png

Not needed for this situation, but nice to have.

#23 6 years ago
Quoted from Pafasa:

Ok. The metal pin on the gear that is pushing on the switch stack looks like the max credit pin. The other pin is molded into the gear itself, right? I don't have a Bally credit unit in front of me and it would be worth waiting for someone else to confirm this, but here goes.
Notice all the holes in the gear around the outside edge. Look closely at those holes and I bet you will find that they are threaded. If so, I bet you can unscrew the metal pin and move it to one of those holes. Each hole is going to give you a different max credit. Let us know how you come out.

This seems to be at variance with what Chrisbee posted, above. (His pic shows something much closer to those springs.) I will try to look into this further tomorrow, and give an update. Will also try to provide pix of the two flat metal bars at inside top of the backbox that -- per one source I have -- may release the backglass for bulb changes. Since I'm still waiting on the new bulbs I ordered, that can hold for a couple more days. (Thanks for all the tips offered here, such as the one on the shooter tips turned into a bulb removal tool.)

#24 6 years ago
Quoted from Prmailers:

Someone did a really nice job of color coding and redrawing the schematic!

Yeah i caught that the other day ,was wondering if thats Stevefurys work.

#25 6 years ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

This seems to be at variance with what Chrisbee posted, above. (His pic shows something much closer to those springs.)

Remember my machine will give 25 credits, so if yours only gives 5 it will be 4 holes back from here. (one hole in this case = 5 teeth.)

Quoted from Pafasa:

The other pin is molded into the gear itself, right? I don't have a Bally credit unit in front of me and it would be worth waiting for someone else to confirm this, but here goes. Notice all the holes in the gear around the outside edge. Look closely at those holes and I bet you will find that they are threaded. If so, I bet you can unscrew the metal pin and move it to one of those holes. Each hole is going to give you a different max credit

Spot on!

#26 6 years ago
Quoted from Prmailers:

Someone did a really nice job of color coding and redrawing the schematic!

Great effort!!

Quoted from Pin-it:

was wondering if thats Stevefurys work

If it was Steve, it would be Space mission or Spirit of 76

#27 6 years ago
Quoted from Chrisbee:

Great effort!!

If it was Steve, it would be Space mission or Spirit of 76

I saw that one a while back. It inspired me to get to work on my C37 Schematic. Wish I could share it when I am done. I will show a clip of it when It is further along. Right now, I am about 1/4 finished.

#28 6 years ago

That's my feeling about it too. Keep in mind that bulbs love burning out as soon as you replace any pieces of glass or plastic that cover them, particularly if those pieces of glass or plastic are hard to remove and replace.
Here's a nifty trick: use the open end of a shooter-tip rubber to grip the bulbs when you pull them out and put in new ones. You'll save your hours of wear and tear on your fingers and you won't get oils all over the glass (oils can speed up he burn-out time). Good luck, & post a shiny photo when you finish!

Finally got to this chore yesterday. I underestimated how many would be needed, going through 3 - 4 boxes of the #44s, and when I ran out of those, about a box and a half of the #47s. Still not finished. (Photo 1) At first I was puzzled by the third, round, larger bulbs, until I turned the table ON for an inspection, and saw that they were a blinker type. I don't know what their proper designation is, but I need to find out and get some more of those also. As can be seen in the photo, some of the replacement bulbs remain dark. This suggests to me that the sockets may be bad, so I will be looking to learn what my options are there. (I'm a DIY neophyte with pin stuff, and reach the ceiling of what I'm able or prepared to do fairly quickly.)

Overall, a mixed improvement. Some areas are better. But, whereas "Same Player Shoots Again" had been illuminating to "Sa Sho" (and that's all !), it now lights up to "Sa Shoots A."

I made use of both a shooter tip and the very good Mill Bulb Tool, from the same company that puts out Millwax. (Pic. 3) Some of the bulb holes are deeper than others. Longer reach with the latter, easier grip with the former, which also keeps your fingers off the bulb glass. Together, they cover this job quite well.

Lights_On_&_Off_(3).jpg Bulbs.jpg Bulb_Tools.jpg

#29 6 years ago

Ok. The metal pin on the gear that is pushing on the switch stack looks like the max credit pin. The other pin is molded into the gear itself, right? I don't have a Bally credit unit in front of me and it would be worth waiting for someone else to confirm this, but here goes.
Notice all the holes in the gear around the outside edge. Look closely at those holes and I bet you will find that they are threaded. If so, I bet you can unscrew the metal pin and move it to one of those holes. Each hole is going to give you a different max credit. Let us know how you come out.

Fixed.

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Prmailers wrote:

"Just saw this on ipdb.org

Someone did a really nice job of color coding and redrawing the schematic!

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2803/Bally_1975_Wizard_Schematic.png

Not needed for this situation, but nice to have."

Yes, I saw that. If one has enough DIY mojo to use this on repairs, I guess the most convenient thing would be to have it on a larger-size tablet, where you could enlarge and scroll around, as you worked. I'm not sure how you would attempt to print it all out, in a size that would be readable and detailed enough to be useful. A sheaf of poster-sized printouts that would have to be done piecemeal, somehow ?

Credits_Counter_Revised.jpg

#30 6 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

but I've seen roughly 1/2 dozen Wizard BG's and they've all been perfect. It's one BG that seems to never have suffered paint loss

Same here...which makes me wonder why CPR reproduced them before others.

As for the credit pins...one will be the max credit and can be moved (unscrew and screw into one of the holes on the outside of the wheel) I beleive the other is the min and closes the switches once the reel displays zero. If you want free play, you can isolate the switch in this set that closes (indicating to the machine zero credits) and it will always think it has credits left.

#31 6 years ago

Quick note, might I suggest sticking with 47 bulbs behind the backglass and for GI. Yes, they're a little dimmer but they significantly drop the power draw on the transformer. More importantly, they reduce heat behind the backglass, reducing the possibility of artwork flaking/peeling, and keep the playfield plastics from curling from the heat.

#32 6 years ago

I'm seeing a red "X" in place of some of the pics I uploaded this morning. If that's some temporary site anomaly, fine. (Possibly, because some other pics just seem to be stuck, trying to load.) But if that's a moderator enforcing some blanket site policy against anything that happens to show some commercially available product, I think that would be very misguided and self-defeating to the purposes of this forum. To mention or to show is NOT the same as to promote or endorse. I have no axe to grind whatsoever: this subject of pin maintenance is all very new to me, and I start from ZERO, with NO opinions ! Any discovery I may make I'm glad to share -- as I'm sure all of you are -- and it's all subject to other opinions or better ideas that turn up. We are all quite capable of detecting and dismissing the few shill or sp*m posts that may come along. No inflexible "help" needed for that. [End Soapbox Mode.]

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Earlier, I wrote:

" From time to time, I even have the ball get stuck on top of that center target's plastic cover. The only cure for that condition seems to be sliding down the playfield glass, until the ball rolls off."

This happened again yesterday, picture attached. (The pic doesn't really show it to best effect, because you don't see the glass, but that ball is stuck fast, between the top of the plastic cover and the playfield glass.)

MrArt2u replied:

The airball is likely from that standup target, bend it so it's facing down a bit, that may help. Regarding ball getting stuck, is that from the airballs? wow.

Yes, I believe so. Bend that target towards the player, or away from ? (Opposite direction.) Using a needle-nose plyers, or something like that ? I want to be careful about this . . . .

And Chrisbee replied:

"Balls do get stuck from time to time, not meant to but they do. There is a thread on Pinside on where have you stuck your balls!! You ponder on how the ball even got in some of the places."

I'd like to see that thread.

Stuck_After_Airball_(4).jpg

#33 6 years ago

I see your pics fine. No red X here, Big brother isn't watching...

I have an idea regarding that ball getting stuck on the plastic like that, do you have 3 taller posts(1 1/4" white faceted) available? Maybe if you raise the plastic with the taller posts the ball wont fit there. I'm going to my studio in a little bit, I'll check what size posts mine has, though I'm fairly certain I have the shorter 1" posts there as well.

#34 6 years ago

The problem could be a warped plastic that won't allow the ball to roll off.

#35 6 years ago

My center plastic (the one under your ball in your pic above) is supported by three 1 1/4" tall posts. Can't tell you if it's original but I can say that in all my years of playing our Wizard I've never seen a ball get stuck up there.

#36 6 years ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

Earlier, I wrote:

" From time to time, I even have the ball get stuck on top of that center target's plastic cover. The only cure for that condition seems to be sliding down the playfield glass, until the ball rolls off."

This happened again yesterday, picture attached.

When this happens, what is it that the ball usually rebounds off of to make it jump up there?

#37 6 years ago
Quoted from textrivers:

When this happens, what is it that the ball usually rebounds off of to make it jump up there?

I would say it's usually on a straight-at-the-center-target shot (as opposed to a softer shot at it on an angle), that ricochets off the playfield glass close to that target. I seem to recall reading somewhere that such airballs may have something to do with a relative level of the flippers &/or flipper rubbers, which then need some kind of adjustment ?

(Of course, going for that target *at all* -- in a straight-ahead manner -- risks being a "sucker shot", since there is a good chance of the ball coming right back at you SDTM and draining.)

I'm going to measure the height of those posts -- though I have no reason to think them anything other than original stock -- and will also check that there is no deformity of the top of that plastic. It does make sense that if that plastic was slightly higher, it would greatly impede this from being possible. That was the reason behind my earlier idea of a clear plastic wedge on top of the plastic cover.

#38 6 years ago

Another two things you could try, in addition to checking the angle of the flipper bats:

1) Raise that center stand-up target a little bit, as it looks like it's sitting very low relative to the playfield, so it might be popping the ball up. Also, as someone else mentioned, angle its face down so that it's more likely to rebound the ball down or at least straight.

2) On top of all three of those stationary posts, you could put a few washers or some other kind of spacers, to give the plastic some extra height. Only do this if those three screws have enough length to tighten firmly into the playfield -- or get longer screws. Same effect as the plastic wedge (reduce the distance between plastic cover and glass), but it would be reversible. Just say no to glue!

#39 6 years ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

And Chrisbee replied:
"Balls do get stuck from time to time, not meant to but they do. There is a thread on Pinside on where have you stuck your balls!! You ponder on how the ball even got in some of the places."

I found this for you. One really caught my eye, Two balls two flippers!!

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/i-got-my-ball-stuck-with-pic

#40 6 years ago

I've now measured those white posts, and they are indeed 1 1/4 ". I don't quite see how one would go about raising the height of the target itself. (As opposed to raising the plastic cover behind it, for which a couple ideas have already been suggested.) I can bend the target forward a bit. Not sure what kind of difference that would make, and I'd want to be very cautious with this, to avoid causing any damage to the target and "stem" it is on.

#41 6 years ago

You will notice a lot of your targets are bent back. This happens. Bending them forward may help for a while but all you are doing is further weakening the metal support bracket for the target. If balls are getting airborne, you most likely have targets that are bent back. There are foam "dampers" that can be installed behind the target faces to reduce the blow to the brackets. PBR sells new target brackets and modified "reinforced" ones for some games. I agree with the others. Don't glue anything on top of the plastic. Instead, find a way to stop the airballs! A lot worse things than a stuck ball will happen too. That center plastic is at risk of being broken if a ball is flying around like that.

#42 6 years ago
Quoted from Pafasa:

You will notice a lot of your targets are bent back. This happens. Bending them forward may help for a while but all you are doing is further weakening the metal support bracket for the target. If balls are getting airborne, you most likely have targets that are bent back. There are foam "dampers" that can be installed behind the target faces to reduce the blow to the brackets. PBR sells new target brackets and modified "reinforced" ones for some games. I agree with the others. Don't glue anything on top of the plastic. Instead, find a way to stop the airballs! A lot worse things than a stuck ball will happen too. That center plastic is at risk of being broken if a ball is flying around like that.

Thanks -- I will look into that. (I have no idea how to go about raising the height of that standup target, as textrivers mentioned in his Suggestion 1, above.) Likewise the angle of the flipper bats, which look o.k. to me. Wasn't there something possibly relevant here regarding how high or low the placement of the rubbers on the flippers are ? I seem to recall reading something about that, somewhere.

I think extra length screws + washers may be out, since I've already had to repair two enlarged post holes (elsewhere), and that could be a repeated issue other places on this playfield.

#43 6 years ago

It probably has been covered, but a good coat of wax and brand new balls can do wonders for a game. It speeds things up and at the same time reduces air balls.

#44 6 years ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

I seem to recall reading something about that, somewhere.

This may help> http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-balls-are-hitting-the-glass <Cant help but laugh at the thread title.

#45 6 years ago

(Yes, doing that would go way beyond the most enthusiastic play !)
Thanks for that thread. I'm determined to get this worked out . . . .

#46 6 years ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

(Yes, doing that would go way beyond the most enthusiastic play !)
Thanks for that thread. I'm determined to get this worked out . . . .

In case you haven't noticed yet, if you metion that you have "seen something" "somewhere" "maybe".... Pin-it will find it! He's the MAN!!

1 week later
#47 6 years ago
Quoted from Pafasa:

In case you haven't noticed yet, if you metion that you have "seen something" "somewhere" "maybe".... Pin-it will find it! He's the MAN!!

Thanks, good to know. From years of experience on other specialized forums -- particularly ones with a huge volume of reference info archived -- I know that no matter how good their Search feature may be, and how well you select keywords for a search, it is still quite possible for the particular thread that you needed to elude you.

Here's my latest head-scratcher with this table. Someone told me about this long "eraser" type doohickey that can remove corrosion from inside lamp sockets, thereby reviving them. (See earlier in this thread, about the light bulbs in the backglass, with photos.) I found where to order one, and was about to. It might save me from having to replace some of those lamp sockets. But yesterday, I turned the game on to play some Wizard, and while everything under the playfield glass was still working the way that it had been, I saw that ALL lights behind the backglass were now suddenly not working ! That can't be a coincidence. One rather odd exception: I managed to win an extra ball, and the 'Same Player Shoots Again' still lit up -- at least to the same partial extent that it was doing after my earlier bulbs change session. (The reels are all still turning just fine, but there is no display of Player # or Ball #.) What's up with this ?

#48 6 years ago

Not sure on the lights. I am away from access to the schematic. I would check the jones plugs in the backbox and also in the cabinet. Just a wiggle might be all you need. The controlled lights may be on a fused circuit. Check your fuses too. Sometimes in Bally games, the fuse holders crap out. This could be part of the problem too.

#49 6 years ago
Quoted from Pafasa:

Not sure on the lights. I am away from access to the schematic. I would check the jones plugs in the backbox and also in the cabinet. Just a wiggle might be all you need. The controlled lights may be on a fused circuit. Check your fuses too. Sometimes in Bally games, the fuse holders crap out. This could be part of the problem too.

Thanks. Some possible progress to report on the other front. I moved the rubbers on the flippers up about as high as they will go without their edging above the tops of the bats. Shots seem to be going differently now, maybe more controlled ? It's too soon to tell yet, but this might substantially reduce the airball threat. I'm skeptical that waxing the playfield (again) is the answer. Maybe increasing the table incline would also be beneficial ?

On the backglass lights, I'm now confident that the jones plugs are securely connected, at both ends. So, I don't think that was it. Now I have to determine the location of the fuses and fuse holders you referred to. I'm hoping they are not in some inaccessible place.

#50 6 years ago
Quoted from Heretic_9:

On the backglass lights, I'm now confident that the jones plugs are securely connected, at both ends. So, I don't think that was it. Now I have to determine the location of the fuses and fuse holders you referred to. I'm hoping they are not in some inaccessible place.

Easy access.
Scroll just below the words Bally Connectors.>> http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#connect
Notorious issue with the connector mounted on the tilt assembly
on Capt. Fantastic. Info and photo!
A scuff pad or sandpaper will clean the pins,or splice time.
Hope thats the fix.
Radio shack carries the little fuse branded fuse holders (strong plastic)or pinball resource has them too.

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