(Topic ID: 329485)

Question About Connectors!

By Pinball-DOOD

10 days ago


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    wmsdisplayschematic.pdf (PDF preview)
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    #1 10 days ago

    Hey all,

    I am wanting to replace a connector on my System 6 Williams Firepower as one the female ends has some corrosion on it. I have repinned connectors on my Data East Tales from the Crypt and was wondering if Tales from the Crypt has the same size pins and female end connector housing as Firepower’s? Also! Am I able to use the same crimping tool?

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    #2 10 days ago

    I have these also but I think this is from when I did System 80b connectors

    299D45EA-EB26-41FF-9385-E4FBB2AA0113 (resized).jpeg
    #3 10 days ago

    Can you take corroded pin out to compare the .156 to it? They are a common size. Firepower I’m not sure though. Not much help I realize.

    #4 10 days ago
    Quoted from Jrotten:Can you take corroded pin out to compare the .156 to it? They are a common size. Firepower I’m not sure though. Not much help I realize.

    I appreciate it! I’m not sure, guess I will have to look

    #5 10 days ago

    Can take pics of your connectors in question?

    Can’t say this covers every pin out there, but generally there’s two sizes of those kk type board connectors. Small(.100” size) and big(.156” size). Compare your one in question, to others in your back box. Is it the smaller or bigger kk connector? You can also judge off wire size feeding into them. Bigger wire usually uses .156, smaller wire use .100, this is not a definitive, but a good guideline.

    Unless you’re talking about a completely different connector, then that’s a different breakdown.

    #6 10 days ago
    Quoted from SterlingRush:

    Can take pics of your connectors in question?
    Can’t say this covers every pin out there, but generally there’s two sizes of those kk type board connectors. Small(.100” size) and big(.156” size). Compare your one in question, to others in your back box. Is it the smaller or bigger kk connector? You can also judge off wire size feeding into them. Bigger wire usually uses .156, smaller wire use .100, this is not a definitive, but a good guideline.
    Unless you’re talking about a completely different connector, then that’s a different breakdown.

    Will do! It is a larger (regular sized) connector

    #7 10 days ago

    It is the top right connector!

    05A21E7F-9EB6-48FB-B4D0-FF5FFFBC94D6 (resized).jpeg
    #8 10 days ago

    So I think I have everything I need except for the female end housing. Do I get that from Great Plains? .156 size on that too?

    #9 10 days ago

    Males are .156.

    Great Plains has closed.

    #10 10 days ago

    Great Plains Electronics has closed up shop. They were the best! I actually got a little nostalgic just seeing the label on that bag of pins you posted!

    There are other places that carry the pins you're looking for though. Wire-Bot is run by a pinsider, and has been getting a lot of positive feedback. Looks like they have the housings, pins, and keying pins as well: https://wirebot.xyz/products/0-156-connector-housing-w-locking-ramp?variant=42171288584438

    #11 10 days ago
    Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

    So I think I have everything I need except for the female end housing. Do I get that from Great Plains? .156 size on that too?

    The housing can be reused if you extract the pins. If you go that route, clean the green goo.

    #12 10 days ago

    Well dang! That is a shame! They were awesome! I think I’ll just get a new connector to play it safe! That battery leakage is what I suspect is screwing with my displays! Thanks, all! Will keep you posted!

    #13 6 days ago

    Huh, looks like no change after repinning that connector. Any idea to what it could be? Maybe dirty edge connector contacts? It’s weird because displays 3 and 4 are perfect but one and two are spotty. The display at the bottom is also spotty

    B6658256-3179-4D8C-B3BA-0EF32E105E91.jpeg
    #14 6 days ago

    Also, around the same time the displays starting messing up the knocker stopped working when I load in credits

    #15 6 days ago

    Okay! So when I administer credits the knocker coil will just buzz. It doesn’t look buckled? It is not holding either so can’t be a bad driver

    #16 4 days ago

    Bump for help!

    #18 4 days ago

    Excellent! Will measure those resistors

    #19 3 days ago

    Okay! So I have circled which ones I can’t get a reading on in the attached picture. All other resistors read 10 ohms. I have replaced one of these before. I do happen to have replacement resistors, would these be suitable for replacing the 4 I can’t get a reading on? Thanks!

    #20 3 days ago
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    #21 3 days ago

    Ah, was unable to upload the picture with the circled resistors. It appears it is (from the left), resistor 1-3 and 5 that give no reading.

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    #22 2 days ago

    Any idea to which resistors I should replace?

    #23 2 days ago
    Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

    Okay! So I have circled which ones I can’t get a reading on in the attached picture. All other resistors read 10 ohms. I have replaced one of these before.

    You cannot measure resistors while they're in a circuit. Everything else on that board (caps, chips, other resistors, etc.) with any continuity to the resistor will be electrically parallel, which will cause lower and possibly erratic readings.

    You must remove, or at least lift one leg, before measuring can be done with any degree of accuracy. That's likely the reason you're seeing 10 ohms for everything... they appear to be in parallel so you're reading through all of them at once.

    Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

    I do happen to have replacement resistors, would these be suitable for replacing the 4 I can’t get a reading on?

    As far as replacements, they are not replacements unless the specs match. Check the schematic for proper value, tolerance, and wattage. Check the spares to make sure value is the same (matching color stripes), it's the same or better tolerance (the last stripe), and that it's the same or higher wattage than the original.

    In this case, I don't know what "can't get a reading" means. You should always get a reading. An open circuit is infinite resistance, and a short circuit is zero ohms. Both of those things are valid readings, plus everything else in between.

    #24 1 day ago

    Looking at your picture, it looks like your 'c' segment is out in displays 1,2 and MASTER. If you look at the first schematic closely where it says 'SEGMENT DRIVE FOR MASTER PLAYER 1 AND 2, the first three different-colored resistors are for keep alive, so not part of the problem. Segment 'c' is going thru resistor R3 but its hard to read because they wrote over it. If you look at the 2nd schematic, you can find segment c on the right of IC6. Follow that line straight through the right side of IC9, and it confirms that segment c is in line with R3. So replace R3 with 10K 1/2 watt.
    r3 (resized).jpg
    If that doesn't solve the issue, anything in that chain can be bad. IC6, IC9, the glass, or the signals from the MPU.

    If you need to look up resistor color codes, just use one of the online calculators like this:
    https://resistorcolorcodecalc.com/

    wmsdisplayfront.pdfwmsdisplayschematic.pdf
    #25 1 day ago
    Quoted from KenH:

    Looking at your picture, it looks like your 'c' segment is out in displays 1,2 and MASTER. If you look at the first schematic closely where it says 'SEGMENT DRIVE FOR MASTER PLAYER 1 AND 2, the first three different-colored resistors are for keep alive, so not part of the problem. Segment 'c' is going thru resistor R3 but its hard to read because they wrote over it. If you look at the 2nd schematic, you can find segment c on the right of IC6. Follow that line straight through the right side of IC9, and it confirms that segment c is in line with R3. So replace R3 with 10K 1/2 watt.
    [quoted image]
    If that doesn't solve the issue, anything in that chain can be bad. IC6, IC9, the glass, or the signals from the MPU.
    If you need to look up resistor color codes, just use one of the online calculators like this:
    https://resistorcolorcodecalc.com/[quoted image][quoted image]

    Excellent, thank you so much. Will replace the resistor and get back to you

    #26 1 day ago
    Quoted from sparky672:

    You cannot measure resistors while they're in a circuit. Everything else on that board (caps, chips, other resistors, etc.) with any continuity to the resistor will be electrically parallel, which will cause lower and possibly erratic readings.
    You must remove, or at least lift one leg, before measuring can be done with any degree of accuracy. That's likely the reason you're seeing 10 ohms for everything... they appear to be in parallel so you're reading through all of them at once.

    As far as replacements, they are not replacements unless the specs match. Check the schematic for proper value, tolerance, and wattage. Check the spares to make sure value is the same (matching color stripes), it's the same or better tolerance (the last stripe), and that it's the same or higher wattage than the original.
    In this case, I don't know what "can't get a reading" means. You should always get a reading. An open circuit is infinite resistance, and a short circuit is zero ohms. Both of those things are valid readings, plus everything else in between.

    Thanks for the help, much appreciated

    #27 1 day ago

    Alright awesome!! Replacing R3 worked! Thank you all so much!

    #28 1 day ago

    So we are almost done! I am just having the issue where I am getting low power to the knocker coil. When I add credits, I hear the coil hum but it is not activating enough to where there is a knock. This just happened recently. I did take the driver and MPU board out recently so maybe that is related?

    #29 1 day ago

    I was pushing on connectors on the power supply so maybe I cracked some solder joints? What do you all think?

    #30 1 day ago
    Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

    maybe I cracked some solder joints?

    That is very common. Even if not the problem, it takes 5 minutes to reflow them and you don't have to worry about them again.

    If you want to pinpoint the exact connector and pin driving the knocker, you can grab the schematics from here and see if you can find it.
    https://www.ipdb.org/files/856/Williams_1980_Firepower_Schematics_paginated_from_manual_dated_March_1980.pdf

    Does the plunger move freely with your finger?

    #31 1 day ago
    Quoted from KenH:

    That is very common. Even if not the problem, it takes 5 minutes to reflow them and you don't have to worry about them again.
    If you want to pinpoint the exact connector and pin driving the knocker, you can grab the schematics from here and see if you can find it.
    https://www.ipdb.org/files/856/Williams_1980_Firepower_Schematics_paginated_from_manual_dated_March_1980.pdf
    Does the plunger move freely with your finger?

    Will find it! Yes, coil is not buckled

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