For your last picture/entry, there is a tiny lil plastic that goes above that rubber. It is immediately to the right of the "RT Jet Lane" insert.

Here you go. Here are some pictures of what you're missing and where that metal plate goes that posted. I'll try to get some pictures of all the high power switches are mounted on Sunday (later today).

Your DMD being garbled like that can be one of two things: bad ribbon cables/ribbon cable connection or bad RAM. If you can navigate to the "Test" menu, hit your "+" button 10 times. The "Display" test is T11; I just checked to be safe. Enable the display test, and let it go through all of its test.s Near the end of the tests, ti will check the integrity of the RAM. If any "page" or data" errors pop up, the RAM is bad and will need to be swapped on the DMD controller board (not the DMD itself but the DMD controller board). You could also just swap the entire DMD controller board if you can find one =/.

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Take all your ribbon cables off. Make sure you note their orientations, where they go, and what side the red stripe is on for each. Get some sandpaper (mid-range, not too coarse or smooth) and clean as many of the male pins as you can on all the boards where the ribbon cables connect.

If you can, get some DeOxit (http://www.parts-express.com/caig-deoxit-d100l-25c-needle-dispenser-25-ml--341-220) and put one drop down every female end of each ribbon connector. What I did is I put one drop down each end, and then I held the ribbon cables in the shape of a "U" with the female ends pointing straight up, so the DeOxit worked its magic at getting rid of the oxidation. It's expensive at $25, but it is WELL worth its weight and has worked miracles getting rid of oxidation where no tool can get in to work.

Your RAM tested good by what I could see on the DMD. It leads me to believe it's bad ribbon cable connections. Don't quote me as "that is THE problem", but it's certainly the easiest place to start.

Here you go. The switches are mounted into a metal plate. The plate has two pieces bent at 90 degs from each other. One end holds the switches; the other is drilled and held into the inside of the front panel by what look like #10 hexhead screws.

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