(Topic ID: 220239)

Q >Acid? repair or new board? MPU Silverball Mania

By SpaceTimeGuy

5 years ago


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  • 25 posts
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  • Latest reply 5 years ago by vid1900
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#1 5 years ago

Hello, I just picked up a Silverball Mania (unworking) ... I am an EM guy so really need some input here ... Is this acid damage/corrosion on bottom edge of MPU board? (photos 1 and 2) ... Battery looks good (photos 3 and 4) .... maybe the MPU was taken out of another game that had battery acid damage??? Is it possible to repair this? how difficult? saw a new board on EBay for $180 (photo 5) ... seems very reasonable ... are all the new boards about the same or is one brand a lot better ? THANK YOU !!!!

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#3 5 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

The replacement MPU is even cheaper from nvram.weebly.com. There is eBay fees built into the price there.
The corrosion looks pretty minor, but if you have never soldered on a printed circuit board before i wouldn't make a corroded bally MPU your first go at it. Make sure your power supply is good. Need +5, +12v and +21v at (original) MPU test points to boot The connectors are usually bad in these games. top right driver board, lower left MPU, and the rectifier board is the biggest problem connectors
Photos 3 and 4 are an electrolytic capacitors on your sound board. He is not a battery, but does hold a charge. He keeps the 12v power on the sound board up/smooth/clean.

MPU cheaper > OK... good to know !
I will check power supply and voltages .. and connectors (have a buddy who is good with that stuff) ... and he is good at soldering so hope we can save board if problem ... or fix connectors ...
capacitor not battery > told you I needed help ... LOL ...
THANK YOU SO MUCH !!!!!

#4 5 years ago

Battery > was it on the bottom of MPU board ? (that would explain the corrosion there and the couple of holes with solder around them ) ... and don't see it remotely mounted so did previous owner do the chip that stores all the info ??

#8 5 years ago

THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO ...
My buddy jimpin1967 came over last night and we tested the voltages ... all were good except on the Solenoid driver voltage board (230V > full power and the adjustment knob didn't reduce voltage) ... Jim said he would solder in new parts there for me ... Game still isn't booting so Jim put my MPU in his working Spy Hunter and it didn't work there either... we going to try getting one new RAM chip (that previous owner had problem with before) ... and if that doesn't fix it > I am going to do what Grizlyrig suggested and buy a new board ... don't want to inconvenience my buddy too much, want to play the pin and don't want bunch of problems down the road. I will update this post with the results ...
THANKS AGAIN !!!

#9 5 years ago

P.S. also previous pinball technician that worked on it removed all the caps on switches under playfield ... Jim says those need to be there ... ? so going to do that also

#12 5 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

The disc caps on the switches are there to help detect fast switch hits (like on the pop bumpers for example). they were likely removed due to phantom switch hits, which typically only one leg of the disc cap is cut (as opposed to removed completely). Funny thing is that corrosion on the MPU could also cause phantom switch hits, so not sure if that's the case in this one or not. The game is playable without them, but for areas where there a quick switch hits, the game may not be as responsive.
another +1 for barakandl I've gotten a few products from him and they are all top notch.

AAAAH ... Interesting ... Thanks for info ! BTW > Madison, WI is a great town !

1 week later
#23 5 years ago

UPDATE > my buddy jimpin1967 tried switching the one RAM chip with a new one > board still didn't work ... so I got a new board ... plugged it in and the GAME WORKS !!! ... I only played a few games (as the voltage is testing too high) ... so jimpin1967 is going to replace the bad components on that board (the board that sends power to the displays) ...

THANK YOU ALL FOR THE GOOD ADVICE and INFORMATION !!!

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