(Topic ID: 220239)

Q >Acid? repair or new board? MPU Silverball Mania


By SpaceTimeGuy

2 years ago

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  • 25 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by vid1900
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 2 years ago

Hello, I just picked up a Silverball Mania (unworking) ... I am an EM guy so really need some input here ... Is this acid damage/corrosion on bottom edge of MPU board? (photos 1 and 2) ... Battery looks good (photos 3 and 4) .... maybe the MPU was taken out of another game that had battery acid damage??? Is it possible to repair this? how difficult? saw a new board on EBay for $180 (photo 5) ... seems very reasonable ... are all the new boards about the same or is one brand a lot better ? THANK YOU !!!!

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#2 2 years ago

The replacement MPU is even cheaper from nvram.weebly.com. There is eBay fees built into the price there.

The corrosion looks pretty minor, but if you have never soldered on a printed circuit board before i wouldn't make a corroded bally MPU your first go at it. Make sure your power supply is good. Need +5, +12v and +21v at (original) MPU test points to boot The connectors are usually bad in these games. top right driver board, lower left MPU, and the rectifier board is the biggest problem connectors

Photos 3 and 4 are an electrolytic capacitors on your sound board. He is not a battery, but does hold a charge. He keeps the 12v power on the sound board up/smooth/clean.

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

The replacement MPU is even cheaper from nvram.weebly.com. There is eBay fees built into the price there.
The corrosion looks pretty minor, but if you have never soldered on a printed circuit board before i wouldn't make a corroded bally MPU your first go at it. Make sure your power supply is good. Need +5, +12v and +21v at (original) MPU test points to boot The connectors are usually bad in these games. top right driver board, lower left MPU, and the rectifier board is the biggest problem connectors
Photos 3 and 4 are an electrolytic capacitors on your sound board. He is not a battery, but does hold a charge. He keeps the 12v power on the sound board up/smooth/clean.

MPU cheaper > OK... good to know !
I will check power supply and voltages .. and connectors (have a buddy who is good with that stuff) ... and he is good at soldering so hope we can save board if problem ... or fix connectors ...
capacitor not battery > told you I needed help ... LOL ...
THANK YOU SO MUCH !!!!!

#4 2 years ago

Battery > was it on the bottom of MPU board ? (that would explain the corrosion there and the couple of holes with solder around them ) ... and don't see it remotely mounted so did previous owner do the chip that stores all the info ??

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from SpaceTimeGuy:

Battery > was it on the bottom of MPU board ? (that would explain the corrosion there and the couple of holes with solder around them ) ... and don't see it remotely mounted so did previous owner do the chip that stores all the info ??

Yes the battery is mounted at the bottom of the mpu and is missing from your board. You are using a normal static ram. The data will corrupt every time the game is powered off, but the game is still playable without a battery.

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from SpaceTimeGuy:

Is this acid damage/corrosion on bottom edge of MPU board?

It is alkaline corrosion. The cleaning process for alkaline is different than for acid. There is no acid in alkaline batteries.

#7 2 years ago

So now that I have tinkered with mpu/acid repairs I can give an honest experienced answer.
Sell the -35 mpu on ebay for like starting bid $50 and $10 shipping. It doesn't matter if it sells for 50 or 100, trust me it's just a headache to a newbie in the hobby.
Now without any hesitation get the new design mpu from @ barakandl and dont look back, now you can enjoy the machine without the acid haunting you with later electrical gremlins and with the original mpu sold your out of pocket for new is around $125 or so.
If it matters, I am a costumer and have the new mpu in my Meteor. Runs perfect!
-Mike

#8 2 years ago

THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO ...
My buddy jimpin1967 came over last night and we tested the voltages ... all were good except on the Solenoid driver voltage board (230V > full power and the adjustment knob didn't reduce voltage) ... Jim said he would solder in new parts there for me ... Game still isn't booting so Jim put my MPU in his working Spy Hunter and it didn't work there either... we going to try getting one new RAM chip (that previous owner had problem with before) ... and if that doesn't fix it > I am going to do what Grizlyrig suggested and buy a new board ... don't want to inconvenience my buddy too much, want to play the pin and don't want bunch of problems down the road. I will update this post with the results ...
THANKS AGAIN !!!

#9 2 years ago

P.S. also previous pinball technician that worked on it removed all the caps on switches under playfield ... Jim says those need to be there ... ? so going to do that also

#10 2 years ago
Quoted from SpaceTimeGuy:

P.S. also previous pinball technician that worked on it removed all the caps on switches under playfield ... Jim says those need to be there ... ? so going to do that also

The disc caps on the switches are there to help detect fast switch hits (like on the pop bumpers for example). they were likely removed due to phantom switch hits, which typically only one leg of the disc cap is cut (as opposed to removed completely). Funny thing is that corrosion on the MPU could also cause phantom switch hits, so not sure if that's the case in this one or not. The game is playable without them, but for areas where there a quick switch hits, the game may not be as responsive.

another +1 for barakandl I've gotten a few products from him and they are all top notch.

#11 2 years ago

duplicate post

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

The disc caps on the switches are there to help detect fast switch hits (like on the pop bumpers for example). they were likely removed due to phantom switch hits, which typically only one leg of the disc cap is cut (as opposed to removed completely). Funny thing is that corrosion on the MPU could also cause phantom switch hits, so not sure if that's the case in this one or not. The game is playable without them, but for areas where there a quick switch hits, the game may not be as responsive.
another +1 for barakandl I've gotten a few products from him and they are all top notch.

AAAAH ... Interesting ... Thanks for info ! BTW > Madison, WI is a great town !

#13 2 years ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

It is alkaline corrosion. The cleaning process for alkaline is different than for acid. There is no acid in alkaline batteries.

^^^ Can't stress this enough!!! ^^^^^

#14 2 years ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

The cleaning process for alkaline is different than for acid.

Doesn't one clean alkaline corrosion with an acid?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-guide-to-repairing-alkaline-battery-damage

Yep, thanks terryb

My 2 cents, get a board from barakandl like FatPanda suggests.

#15 2 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Doesn't one clean alkaline corrosion with an acid?

Alkaline is a base, bases neutralize acids, acids neutralize bases. The distinction is important because many people are familiar with car batteries where you clean up corrosion with a baking soda solution (a mild base). That process would be useless cleaning up alkaline corrosion on a pinball board.

#16 2 years ago

So an acid is needed to cleanup the alkaline mess, correct?

#18 2 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

So an acid is needed to cleanup the alkaline mess, correct?

vinegar

#19 2 years ago

Just get the Allteck Ultimate MPU you will be SO HAPPY and use the original for trade bait! There's someone selling blank AS-2518-35 boards on ebay and I'm sure there's many useful components still left on that board. You can probably repair it easily using the "stitch" method, beep testing the traces and finding out the opens, but if you have the extra money and not the extra time I'd recommend getting the replacement...but you are an EM guy so?

I can sing the praises of Allteck, he has one of the best merchandise policies for new boards out there, if it fails within the first 30 days a replacement is free, if it fails in his lifetime a repair is $17 or if the board cannot be repaired a replacement is $50! That's a hell of a guarantee!!!

Price went down they were $230 now $180!
ebay.com link: NEW BALLY STERN REPLACEMENT MPU AS 2518 35 MPU 200

Blank NOS board $50!
ebay.com link: Bally Stern MPU DASH 35 brand new old stock bare circuit board build it yourself

#20 2 years ago
Quoted from gmkalos:

Just get the Allteck Ultimate MPU you will be SO HAPPY and use the original for trade bait! There's someone selling blank AS-2518-35 boards on ebay and I'm sure there's many useful components still left on that board. You can probably repair it easily using the "stitch" method, beep testing the traces and finding out the opens, but if you have the extra money and not the extra time I'd recommend getting the replacement...but you are an EM guy so?
I can sing the praises of Allteck, he has one of the best merchandise policies for new boards out there, if it fails within the first 30 days a replacement is free, if it fails in his lifetime a repair is $17 or if the board cannot be repaired a replacement is $50! That's a hell of a guarantee!!!
Price went down they were $230 now $180!
ebay.com link » New Bally Stern Replacement Mpu As 2518 35 Mpu 200
Blank NOS board $50!
ebay.com link » Bally Stern Mpu Dash 35 Brand New Old Stock Bare Circuit Board Build It Yourself

The alltek boards are different from the barakandl boards. You can buy from barakandl directly, then he doesnt have to eat the Ebay fees. Plus he is extremely knowledgable and always helpful on the boards. I like to support other helpful pinsiders when I can.

https://nvram.weebly.com

You can buy the Alltek boards from various vendors. Just search google.

#21 2 years ago

If it’s your first board, throw it on the “learn later” pile and buy the board from barakandl! If you do a little hunting around pinside you will find he is one of the experts on old bally (and most pinball) games. His board are better for many reasons all explained by lots of people and posts. When you feel a little more adventurous, try fixing the mpu. If you fail, you still have the new one. If you don’t, you have an extra for when one does fail. And one will fail sooner or later. Welcome to pinball

#22 2 years ago

Alkaline batteries
Zinc reacts with manganese dioxide.
They leak potassium hydroxide (which is caustic)
When potassium hydroxide makes contact with carbon dioxide it forms pottasium carbonate which grows along anything metal.

MSDS below
http://www.armandproducts.com/content/pdfs/POTASSIUM_CARBONATE_(ANHYDROUS_ALL_GRADES)_MTR_ANSI_EN1.pdf

the crstaline growth does not look too bad!

I also clean with vinegar to help neutrilize it.

1 week later
#23 2 years ago

UPDATE > my buddy jimpin1967 tried switching the one RAM chip with a new one > board still didn't work ... so I got a new board ... plugged it in and the GAME WORKS !!! ... I only played a few games (as the voltage is testing too high) ... so jimpin1967 is going to replace the bad components on that board (the board that sends power to the displays) ...

THANK YOU ALL FOR THE GOOD ADVICE and INFORMATION !!!

#24 2 years ago
Quoted from SpaceTimeGuy:

UPDATE > my buddy jimpin1967 tried switching the one RAM chip with a new one > board still didn't work ... so I got a new board ... plugged it in and the GAME WORKS !!! ... I only played a few games (as the voltage is testing too high) ... so jimpin1967 is going to replace the bad components on that board (the board that sends power to the displays) ...
THANK YOU ALL FOR THE GOOD ADVICE and INFORMATION !!!

The rectifier board?

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