(Topic ID: 72249)

Solved PZ Head Issue

By Chrizg

10 years ago



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  • 4 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by Laser-Beam
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#2 10 years ago

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Hi Chrizg, yeah i had a similar thing happen with Captain B. Zarr's head. From memory i forced the head back to where it should be, during a test. I decided to buy an entirely new motor and assembly unit for Captain B. Zarr. Now she runs perfectly. The old motor could be the problem but its also possible that the internals of the assembly have siezed up a bit over time. Im guessing that's waht happened to mine. The head still worked but would favour one side and fail to return to the CENTRE position fully.

Mate, if you do replace the entire unit, (Bay Area and Marco specialties had them i thnk), its well worth installing a new Jaw-Actuator for better mouth movement. The Captain's rubberised head comes off with a bit of heating and stretching over the jaw section of the head assembly. Older B. Zarr's heads will require more heating. Airgun/hairdrier or boiling water is ok - be suere airgun is on low heat. The Jaw is worth doing as you may need to take the rubber head off anyway and its a very cheap part. Easy to remove and install. Check the schematic for the shape of the jaw to assist in head removal, etc

Highly recommend a new motor and assembly for your Captain B. Zarr, and a new Jaw Actuator.
Makes the head come alive again. Make sure all wires are clear before and during testing of the head, so that he gets an unobstructed rotation.

"We're talking heads here." - Quote from The Party Zone flier
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3 weeks later
#4 10 years ago
Quoted from Chrizg:

Thank you for the tip on the heat to make his head go on easier! The problem was fixed after replacing the 2 TIP107s on the board that runs the head

Sweet mate, that's good news.
Funny thing is my Captain B.Zarr started playing up again.
The jaw stopped moving. The solder had come of one of the connectors on the coil.
Easy enough to resolder that connection.
Sadly the Jaw only works most of the time but not al of the time.
Im guessing the soldering wasn't perfect and it's a 'dry join'.
She's not turning so good in the test either so i think i've got an issue with that little circuit board too.

Were the 2 x TIP107's easy to replace? (not sure what they are, without refering to the schematics).
Any details or tips would be great, mate. Cheers Chrizg.

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