(Topic ID: 178272)

Pulsing Displays and LEDS

By Joker2415

7 years ago


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  • 19 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by Joker2415
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    #1 7 years ago

    I wonder about this topic.......

    This has been a topic between my Dad and I for years. I can see the pulse in the older displays on the pinballs, older alarm clocks,microwave clocks etc...Him being in electronics, says no, that's impossible.

    Can anyone else see this? And will updating the displays to a newer style get rid of this?

    I'm working on a Bally Mr. & Mrs pac man. The jittering, wavy, pulsing displays drive me nuts!(I don't notice it as bad on High speed, as far as displays go) My wife says they look fine! She doesn't see it. I ran into the same thing with High Speed, I installed Led's through out the game and had to take them out, because of the fast pulsing(?)!

    Someone else has to see this or know what I'm referring to! It's like watching a wavy rippley light, that's pulsing very fast? And no! I'll give the same answer as I've given my dad for 20plus years on the topic....I'm not on drugs! He thinks that's the problem!

    #3 7 years ago
    Quoted from KenH:

    Most, if not all LED displays are multiplexed (each digit turned on and off quickly). Look up "led display multiplexing", and that should answer your question. That's probably what you're seeing. The slower the frequency, the more flicker you will perceive.

    Ya, it's not in all of them, Maybe just when They start getting older? Maybe. rebuilding the boards making everything a little faster and stronger helps with this. We don't have many displays with it anymore on things. Since I've been playing with these games lately I started wondering about it again. Since I can really see it in these displays a lot more than usual. Just strange how other people don't see it. My wife thinks I'm crazy too! Older car clocks did it too! I would turn them off or cover them, at night was when I noticed it the most. They jitter(?)!

    #6 7 years ago

    Good!! I'm glad I'm not the only one!!!

    My neighbor walked over and said he can see it on this machines displays too. So it's there!!!!

    No, I don't have nystagmus, but I am a hyper person. Maybe that's what it is.

    #8 7 years ago
    Quoted from herg:

    On the insert LED side of things, yes, I can definitely see that. My pinball business started as a result.

    I can understand why!!! These displays will drive me insane! I will have to fix them eventually or change them out...Or this can be her game!

    #9 7 years ago

    I just checked them and they are running slow, maybe if I can up the speed a little that will help make it not seem so bad.

    #13 7 years ago
    Quoted from barakandl:

    You are not alone. I can see notice the display flicker too. LED lamps bug me a lot of times too because i can see the strobe effect as the ball moves across the playfield. Even at 120hz it kinda bothers me.

    Good!

    I'm going to try to learn these circuits and how they work to fine tune some of this stuff. eventually! I have a long way to go yet.

    Quoted from KenH:

    There's a cap on the Bally -35 board that regulates how often the display interrupt is called. Its the one that looks like a chicklet on the original boards. I've ended up replacing all of mine, because they were all bad--doing what you're describing. I guess over the years, the caps went enough out-of-spec to cause the displays to update slower, causing the flicker.
    It is C16 close to the 555 timer on the -35 board -- 0.1 MFD, 100V
    Sorry about the pictures, I deleted them from the post, but it keeps putting them back in...

    I was trying to figure that out today and at what speed this maxes out(?) at? I know by playing with R21, it will change the speed too.

    Yep, c16 is one of the few parts on my MPU that didn't get replaced. I don't know the differences(types) in caps yet and used a Radial film there and it changed my speed to 3.18 KHZ. I had to put the old one back in, and now I'm down to around 300hz. Maybe, I messed up on the conversion figuring the value, just thought of that when I typed it out above....That type of cap may work there, I may have messed up and ordered wrong value..Still learning and have done a lot of that!

    Now, I'm trying to learn what the max is? How to find that? And what needs changed to get it there? Like fine tuning!! I just don't know enough yet to figure that out, with out trial and error.

    #16 7 years ago
    Quoted from barakandl:

    If you have a DMM that reads frequency, put it on the pin of the PIA and check. Bally spec in the Theory of Operation says 320Hz. That way you are checking the cap and resistor. Doesn't have to be dead on 320Hz, but close. Error on faster is probably better, but like Ken said, you can make the CPU crash or run slow if you hammer it with it with interrupts.
    While on the same subject of clock speeds. I noticed the Alltek runs MPU200 games at 1Mhz instead and stock boards are usually around 0.875Mhz. Does that cause any noticeable changes in the sound or game features? The interrupt generators not based on the cpu clock should keep most things in check.

    Ok, I understand what you guys are saying, shoot for 320hz and leave it there. Yes, My DMM reads frequency, I just figured out how to use it with help from another member. It does some other stuff I don't even understand yet. dB is another setting I have no clue what it is or how to use it. Then after playing around I learned that I can set it for different continuity checks, I've had it for years and never knew that. If I check a trace, it will read through a resistor, I can set it to not do that, in simple mind terms, since I don't know the wording. I can set the level in which it read continuity. I guess is the way to say it.

    I'm confused on the sound thing.....That's a whole separate thing, that I haven't even tried to understand yet. The S&T is a whole complicated thing to figure out in itself for now. I'm not sure how it would speed the sound up other than get it confused. Mine is confused right now. I think it has amnesia.

    Quoted from KenH:You don't really need to change the values, but you can if you just want to experiment. I'd probably do that on the bench, though, with nothing else connected, because if you get the interrupt frequency too high, the game will lock up, because the processor will be so busy servicing interrupts, it won't be able to do anything else.
    Just be careful if you're doing this 'in game' because when the processor locks up, you could have unpredictable (bad) things happen, like coils lock on, and maybe other bad stuff since the board controls all the hardware.
    You can also experiment (again, recommend on the bench) with the processor clock speed, by altering the resistor/cap values around the 9502 chip. The board *will* run faster, but then the sound gets too fast, and other weird stuff happens, like the bonus counters go too fast, etc--but its fun to experiment.
    Just be careful and remember the board can inadvertently issue commands that can break your hardware.

    I get what your saying! I've learned to be lightning fast on the power switch or the cord. When I start letting smoke out of things!

    #17 7 years ago
    Quoted from Joker2415:

    Ok, I understand what you guys are saying, shoot for 320hz and leave it there. Yes, My DMM reads frequency, I just figured out how to use it with help from another member. It does some other stuff I don't even understand yet. dB is another setting I have no clue what it is or how to use it. Then after playing around I learned that I can set it for different continuity checks, I've had it for years and never knew that. If I check a trace, it will read through a resistor, I can set it to not do that, in simple mind terms, since I don't know the wording. I can set the level in which it read continuity. I guess is the way to say it.
    I'm confused on the sound thing.....That's a whole separate thing, that I haven't even tried to understand yet. The S&T is a whole complicated thing to figure out in itself for now. I'm not sure how it would speed the sound up other than get it confused. Mine is confused right now. I think it has amnesia.

    I get what your saying! I've learned to be lightning fast on the power switch or the cord. When I start letting smoke out of things!

    That's another project in the future. Making a homemade coil winder. I have an extra jewelers lathe that would work perfect for this. I just need to find wire and learn how to figure out how many turns are on one, along with the two section(?) coils.

    This was supposed to be an edit to the above, I pushed the wrong buttons........

    #19 7 years ago

    I just found something weird, No Gi lights, pac maze red was all out of order and not making sense, had no GI's, and a few other lights weren't working.

    So, goofing around trying to figure out the problem, I'm playing around with the logic probe on the Aux, Lamp Driver board touching legs on chips,. I touched pin2 of U1, and everything started working right, take the probe off? It all quits working again. HUH? WHat the....Is going on. I played around for a while still couldn't locate the problem.

    Went back to the ADB, and touched probe to legs of U1 pin2, and U2 Pin10 each with the probe, it all works like it should. Stuck a DMM on it. It was 5.1v, the logic probe pulled enough to drop it to 5v even. I got a resistor, tied one of the u2 pin 10 to ground dropping it to 4.97v and everything works great!!!! Now, I have no clue yet what the actual cause of the problem is without just taking guess's. I just know a temporary solution. Not sure if it's U1 or before it yet.

    If I tie it too low, then it causes the relay under the play field to activate, if I keep it where it's at at 4.97v, everything works like it should! That little bit made it work or not..Crazy!!

    Now I wonder if I drop voltage on the whole board from 5.1v to 5v or a little below if everything will work like it should! Are these things really that touchy?

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