I give up what is causing this? My KISS LE has developed this goofy Kick out issue.
https://www.facebook.com/PinballRebel/videos/10156266303251133/
Ken
(Topic ID: 210223)
Linked Games
KISS (LE)
Stern, 2015-
KISS (Premium)
Stern, 2015
Topic Gallery
Regina, SK
Quoted from pinballrebel:Yes it appears to be to me.
The person who helps me solve this by providing a correct answer will win a beverage of their choice at TPF or $10 via paypal. Im 4-5 hours into this already and no closer to a solution.
It seems like your plunger may be too short. Had a similar issue on tspp Otto kick out. Put something that is about 1/4” thick behind the plunger and see if that helps get it out. A beer bottle cap, a piece 1/4” thick acrylic or wood taped to the back of the plunger or where the rubber stop is would work too.
Quoted from Boat:What did you do for troubleshooting/testing already?
visually inspect the coil/mech, test transistor associated with this coil, voltages, etc
Checked voltage. Inspected mech. It fires hard.
Quoted from Lermods:It seems like your plunger may be too short. Had a similar issue on tspp Otto kick out. Put something that is about 1/4” thick behind the plunger and see if that helps get it out. A beer bottle cap, a piece 1/4” thick acrylic or wood taped to the back of the plunger or where the rubber stop is would work too.
Im not above trying that but how does changing the travel on that side of the plunger make it travel more on the other side? It would still bottom out when it hits the stop?
Quoted from pinballrebel:Im not above trying that but how does changing the travel on that side of the plunger make it travel more on the other side? It would still bottom out when it hits the stop?
I don’t know, but it was common on tspp. Took me 10 years to figure it out. Stern couldn’t help, had me change the coil, no change. Put the bottle cap on the end at the suggestion of another pinsider and it immediately fixed it. Since the cap is metal, I replaced it with a piece if acrylic, never happened again. Can’t hurt to try it even if it sounds odd.
Quoted from pinballrebel:Checked voltage. Inspected mech. It fires hard.
Can you re-shoot the video without the ball in the saucer, and with slo-mo on?
Also, have you triggered it with the playfield lifted to see how the coil action is under the PF?
My guess is the switch that triggers the out kicker might need adjusted. You want it so that the kicker doesn’t trigger until the ball is fully in the hole. It’s definitely a mechanical issue not an electrical issue IMO.
Greenville, OH
Quoted from alexanr1:My guess is the switch that triggers the out kicker might need adjusted. You want it so that the kicker doesn’t trigger until the ball is fully in the hole. It’s definitely a mechanical issue not an electrical issue IMO.
The ball is fully in the hole. It won't even clear in test. Good guess though.
Quoted from pinballrebel:The ball is fully in the hole. It won't even clear in test. Good guess though.
What does the coil action look like from under the playfield when you trigger the coil?
Quoted from PinMonk:What does the coil action look like from under the playfield when you trigger the coil?
Moves just fine...no bind....
Quoted from Lermods:Read post 14 of this thread, post 18 has pics of the fix.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-issue
Tried adding the bottle cap fix...didnt fix the issue the problem remains.
It appears to me the ball hits the post/rubber just below the kickout and bounces back into the hole. This is a problem because there is no way to adjust the angle of the kicker.
Quoted from pinballrebel:Moves just fine...no bind....
And the plastic tip is intact as in this picture off mine?
Quoted from PinMonk:So did you solve this?
No I have not. I had time to work on it today. Stern suggested I relocate the entire assemble so the plunger strikes the ball at a different angle. I did that. Now the ball no longer seems to strike the post and rubber directly below the saucer but it still will not eject. The issue remains. I have tried every power setting as well. Here is a link to the issue show in slow motion.
https://www.facebook.com/PinballRebel/videos/10156285623261133/
Quoted from pinballrebel:No I have not. I had time to work on it today. Stern suggested I relocate the entire assemble so the plunger strikes the ball at a different angle. I did that. Now the ball no longer seems to strike the post and rubber directly below the saucer but it still will not eject. The issue remains. I have tried every power setting as well. Here is a link to the issue show in slow motion.
https://www.facebook.com/PinballRebel/videos/10156285623261133/
What's your Star Eject power set to? It looks like it's ejecting way too hard, hitting the plastic "ceiling" and settling back.
Just a guess as I can’t really see the set up...is it possible ball is magnetized or just slightly but enough to ‘stick’ a bit to any metal in the kick out hole? Hope you figure it out!
Quoted from Cash_Riprock:Just a guess as I can’t really see the set up...is it possible ball is magnetized or just slightly but enough to ‘stick’ a bit to any metal in the kick out hole? Hope you figure it out!
It's resting against a plastic tip in the saucer, and there's not enough metal in the switch to hold the ball back even if it were magnetized. It looks pretty clearly like it's hitting the plastic over the area and bouncing back into the saucer on that slow-mo video.
Quoted from PinMonk:It's resting against a plastic tip in the saucer, and there's not enough metal in the switch to hold the ball back even if it were magnetized. It looks pretty clearly like it's hitting the plastic over the area and bouncing back into the saucer on that slow-mo video.
But why would it start doing that? Makes no sense? I even relocated the assembly and I have the same issue. It isnt like the plastic deck could move down.
Ken
Quoted from pinballrebel:But why would it start doing that? Makes no sense? I even relocated the assembly and I have the same issue. It isnt like the plastic deck could move down.
Ken
Before we get to Philosophy, start with the answer to, "WHAT IS YOUR STAR EJECT POWER SETTING?"
Quoted from PinMonk:Before we get to Philosophy, start with the answer to, "WHAT IS YOUR STAR EJECT POWER SETTING?"
I have tried it on the lowest setting, and the factory, and every where in between. I thought maybe the lowest setting might make it just dribble out but nope 
Pinball Philosophy....I actually like that idea.... I flip therefore I drain 
Ken
Quoted from pinballrebel:I have tried it on the lowest setting, and the factory, and every where in between. I thought maybe the lowest setting might make it just dribble out but nope
Pinball Philosophy....I actually like that idea.... I flip therefore I drain
Ken
Fourth time. What is your Star Eject power setting (adjustment#7 under KISS feature adjustments)?
And secondarily, what was the Star Eject power when you took that video?
Quoted from PinMonk:Fourth time. What is your Star Eject power setting?
And secondarily, what was the Star Eject power when you took that video?
I have it set back to factory at the moment. The default. I forget what the number is.
I cant recall what it was on when I shot the video. I think half way between the lowest and factory though.
Ken
Quoted from pinballrebel:I have it set back to factory at the moment. The default. I forget what the number is.
I cant recall what it was on when I shot the video. I think half way between the lowest and factory though.
Ken
Factory is 32, the maximum.
What do you have the coil strength set to? Soft or Normal? Adjustment 43 on standard adjustments.
Angle is off, (on bottom of playfield) put a couple of washers between VUK metal plate and wood playfield and then put screws back in holes which hold up the veriltical up kicker.
I have done this on other games, not sure about this one.
Another thought I had is maybe you should measure the voltage the saucer kickout coil is getting when energized and compare it to a couple other 26-1200 coils in the system when they're energized (pop bumpers, either sling, etc) and see if it's getting the same voltage or if the voltage increased due to some failure on the node board...
Quoted from PinMonk:It's resting against a plastic tip in the saucer, and there's not enough metal in the switch to hold the ball back even if it were magnetized. It looks pretty clearly like it's hitting the plastic over the area and bouncing back into the saucer on that slow-mo video.
Thank you vireland. Yes, rules out my thought.
Quoted from cpr9999:Did this get fixed?
Solution from the Stern Enthusiast facebook page.
Prize Winner Tony Singer. He suggester putting a rubber spacer under the center ramp the lift it off the backboard. I did this and added spacers under the starchild clear plastic as well. I also moved the location of the assembly, and lowered the power on the coil.
The only thing I can figure is the ball hitting that plastic over and over again from the stage drop slowly warps it downward (the starchild clear plastic so eventually the ball starts hitting it). I put spacers under the clear plastic on the sided of the saucer and put a rubber under the ramp. That plus lowering the coil setting will let the ball eject but just barely. I have a feeling as more games get put on it this is going to be an issue again. Someone may need to come up with a better solution that spans than plastic that keeps it from flexing.
Irritating to say the least. I cant believe more LE and premium owners have not saw this issue?
Ken
Quoted from pinballrebel:Solution from the Stern Enthusiast facebook page.
Prize Winner Tony Singer. He suggester putting a rubber spacer under the center ramp the lift it off the backboard. I did this and added spacers under the starchild clear plastic as well. I also moved the location of the assembly, and lowered the power on the coil.
The only thing I can figure is the ball hitting that plastic over and over again from the stage drop slowly warps it downward (the starchild clear plastic so eventually the ball starts hitting it). I put spacers under the clear plastic on the sided of the saucer and put a rubber under the ramp. That plus lowering the coil setting will let the ball eject but just barely. I have a feeling as more games get put on it this is going to be an issue again. Someone may need to come up with a better solution that spans than plastic that keeps it from flexing.
Irritating to say the least. I cant believe more LE and premium owners have not saw this issue?
Ken
I'd put washers between the coil bracket and the playfield to move the coil away from the playfield a bit so the ball gets less of a hit before I raised ramps and plastics. Uneven raising on the plastic runs the risk of breaking it.
You were able to get the ball to work, but did you check the power to that coil when energized? If it's too much, that's the real problem, you just addressed a symptom. It would also explain why only you seem to have experienced this so far.
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