(Topic ID: 209521)

PSU5 and the Crack and Pop on WPC speakers

By Budwin

3 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 62 posts
  • 21 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 months ago by Zzap
  • Topic is favorited by 22 Pinsiders

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There are 62 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 1 year ago

I ended up buying this one
ebay.com link: 0
I'll keep you guys posted.

2 months later
#52 1 year ago

It works perfectly, no more pop. Just soldered 2 wires on the back of the sound card to get 12VAC.

And I realized I just needed a 2 channel card: 1 channel for the sub (cabinet speaker) and 1 channel for the backbox speakers which are indeed mono, not stereo...

It's such a pleasure to start that Judge Dredd and hear nothing but the from "bong"

#53 1 year ago

Just installed a PSU5 in my TZ yesterday. I had also obtained one of these ebay.com link: itm to defeat the expected staccato audio noise, but have not installed it. To my surprise, when testing after the PSU5 installation I find that I don't get that noise when powering off the machine! Strange, but I'm ok with that. I did install the 9.4CH ROM at the same time I did the other work, not sure if that makes a difference...

Wondering why I don't get that enhanced crack / staccato noise at power down when others do. Any thoughts?

Just to clarify,I do get the same single "crack" noise when turning off the machine as I did before installing the PSU5, but I don't get the staccato type crack noise some have reported after installing the PSU5.

#54 1 year ago
Quoted from manples:

Just soldered 2 wires on the back of the sound card to get 12VAC.

I bought the same version of the board you got, which supports up to 3 speakers. I see now that the listing says it allows an AC input voltage of 12 - 15v.
ebay.com link: UPC1237 2 1CH 3 Channel Speaker Protection Board with Boot Delay 10A High Power

My question for you is - where were you able to find 12 - 15v AC on the sound board? I ask because looking at the manual the A-12738 sound board says it gets 20v AC from the transformer, and I don't see any 12 - 15v AC on that board. Is it ok to run this speaker delay board on 20v AC?

By contrast, the description of the version of the board that supports 2 speakers says is allows an AC input voltage of 10 - 18v or a DC input voltage of 12 - 24v.
ebay.com link: UPC1237 Dual Channel Speaker Protection Circuit Board DC 12 24V Boot Mute Delay

Ah, I see you mentioned Judge Dredd, so a DCS game with the A-16917 sound board. Even so, the manual for STTNG indicates this board has 18v AC on the board., still higher than 12 - 15v AC.

Can the version of the board that supports 3 speakers be run safely with 18v or 20v AC input? If so, perhaps this board would be more versatile in the number of different titles it could be installed in since it can handle more speakers?? Checking to make sure I don't burn it up installing it in games like TZ where 20v AC is on the sound board.

2 months later
#55 1 year ago

I just found one of the original hschanke "WPC NO-POP" kits from 2005, with the circuit board, stand-offs, screws, cables and installation instructions to end the pops! I was going to install in my FUNhouse at one point, but never got to it before the machine went away.

New, never used... send me a PM if interested

4 months later
#56 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballtoys:

Hi
I wouldn't do that...
your shorting the output of the amp to ground!
you need to put the relay contacts in series with the speakers, ideally use the existing bullet-connector
cheers Bob

Would it be best to use one channel for J504 & the other for J505?

#57 11 months ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

I just found one of the original hschanke "WPC NO-POP" kits from 2005, with the circuit board, stand-offs, screws, cables and installation instructions to end the pops! I was going to install in my FUNhouse at one point, but never got to it before the machine went away.
New, never used... send me a PM if interested

(Sold now, sorry)

1 month later
#58 9 months ago

Hi everyone

I'm posting on an old thread because I've solved an old problem. I'm the guy who makes the PSU5 and this is a blatant plug for my product. I changed the color.

Actually, after a long delay I finally found a solution to the noise generated by the PSU5 when some games are switched off. It is due to the PSU5 switching on and off rapidly when the voltage on the electrolytic capacitors recovers a little after the load disappears. The new revision of the module fixes this issue on all the machines where its been tested. Some of the details can be found on the shop page for the module https://www.ezsbc.com/product/psu5-nonoise/.

I have sold many and its removed reset problems from many machines but introduced the unwanted noise on some. A good way to remove the reset problems on about every Williams machine is by using Rob's WPC Power Fix board. It's super simple to install and fixes all the resets.

Daniel

PSU5_NNs (resized).jpg
#59 9 months ago
Quoted from Daniel5:

Hi everyone
I'm posting on an old thread because I've solved an old problem. I'm the guy who makes the PSU5 and this is a blatant plug for my product. I changed the color.
Actually, after a long delay I finally found a solution to the noise generated by the PSU5 when some games are switched off. It is due to the PSU5 switching on and off rapidly when the voltage on the electrolytic capacitors recovers a little after the load disappears. The new revision of the module fixes this issue on all the machines where its been tested. Some of the details can be found on the shop page for the module https://www.ezsbc.com/product/psu5-nonoise/.
I have sold many and its removed reset problems from many machines but introduced the unwanted noise on some. A good way to remove the reset problems on about every Williams machine is by using Rob's WPC Power Fix board. It's super simple to install and fixes all the resets.
Daniel
[quoted image]

Daniel - thank you for making these products to help the community!

#60 9 months ago

Using under-voltage lockout?

1 week later
#61 9 months ago
Quoted from Daniel5:

Hi everyone
I'm posting on an old thread because I've solved an old problem. I'm the guy who makes the PSU5 and this is a blatant plug for my product. I changed the color.
Actually, after a long delay I finally found a solution to the noise generated by the PSU5 when some games are switched off. It is due to the PSU5 switching on and off rapidly when the voltage on the electrolytic capacitors recovers a little after the load disappears. The new revision of the module fixes this issue on all the machines where its been tested. Some of the details can be found on the shop page for the module https://www.ezsbc.com/product/psu5-nonoise/.
I have sold many and its removed reset problems from many machines but introduced the unwanted noise on some. A good way to remove the reset problems on about every Williams machine is by using Rob's WPC Power Fix board. It's super simple to install and fixes all the resets.
Daniel
[quoted image]

Just installed a rev 2 yesterday....great product ive been using for years. Was going to order some replacements...is any new order automatically this version or do you have to burn through old stock.

#62 9 months ago
Quoted from robertmee:

Just installed a rev 2 yesterday....great product ive been using for years. Was going to order some replacements...is any new order automatically this version or do you have to burn through old stock.

It’s a different part on the website, so you can choose to order the standard one or the newer no-pop

There are 62 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

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