Is there a ‘best’ PSU5?
Any that auto-adjust?
Any that don’t ‘fart’ when turning off the machine?
For a Roadshow.
(Topic ID: 321867)
I have these in my TZ and TNG and they work great...endorse! While there, get the 12V regulators as well:
Quoted from ray-dude:I have these in my TZ and TNG and they work great...endorse! While there, get the 12V regulators as well:
https://www.ezsbc.com/product/psu3-12/
I’m novice.
My kahr daughterboard only identified issues with my 5v.
Are you suggesting to have a 12v for future if needed? Or for now?
It would be preventative if it is working fine now. The original 5V and 12V regulators run very hot (that's why they have heat sinks). These modern replacements run cool and will give you decades of life.
If you're pulling your power board to replace the 5V anyway, real easy to replace the 12V regulator at the same time (3 pins to desolder and resolder)
Quoted from ray-dude:It would be preventative if it is working fine now. The original 5V and 12V regulators run very hot (that's why they have heat sinks). These modern replacements run cool and will give you decades of life.
If you're pulling your power board to replace the 5V anyway, real easy to replace the 12V regulator at the same time (3 pins to desolder and resolder)
This isn't a bad idea - it's probably not STRICTLY necessary unless there's an issue with the 12V, but there will be eventually, so...
Chesterfield, MO
Key words, “I am a novice”.
For that reason, don’t attempt to fix what is not broken. Even a PSU5 install can go wrong as the nuts that will hold it down can bridge to short the PCB.
Send it to a pro for complete service.
Send your MPU along for NVRAM install while you are at it.
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info
Quoted from ChrisHibler:Key words, “I am a novice”.
For that reason, don’t attempt to fix what is not broken. Even a PSU5 install can go wrong as the nuts that will hold it down can bridge to short the PCB.
Send it to a pro for complete service.
Send your MPU along for NVRAM install while you are at it.
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info
Chris,
I know you’re like Yoda,
And I’m lucky to be like Luke,
I installed a NVRAM on my paragon,
And it was a simple plug in.
Is it a different process on Roadshow?
I currently have batteries on the side.
Also, I talked with a local pro today. He told me if the kahr is working, leave the voltage regulator alone??
Respectfully,
Luke Skywalker
Quoted from MyParagon1979:Chris,
I know you’re like Yoda,
And I’m lucky to be like Luke,
I installed a NVRAM on my paragon,
And it was a simple plug in.
Is it a different process on Roadshow?
I currently have batteries on the side.
Also, I talked with a local pro today. He told me if the kahr is working, leave the voltage regulator alone??
Respectfully,
Luke Skywalker
SUUUUUUUUPER different installing NVRAM on a DMD game.
Quoted from MyParagon1979:Chris,
I know you’re like Yoda,
And I’m lucky to be like Luke,
I installed a NVRAM on my paragon,
And it was a simple plug in.
Is it a different process on Roadshow?
I currently have batteries on the side.
Also, I talked with a local pro today. He told me if the kahr is working, leave the voltage regulator alone??
Respectfully,
Luke Skywalker
Your Paragon had a single socket where the 5101 was replaced with NVRAM.
But...your RoadShow has a 6264 that is soldered onto the board...no socket.
That's 28 pins to desolder successfully. Without the right tools and experience, I'd let someone who does have those things take care of it. It's a $250 board in a $3-4K game.
If your game isn't resetting with the Kahr band-aid...leave it on there until you have another reason to repair the Power/Driver board.
I wouldn't mess with what is working.
But, if the game is resetting with the Kahr band-aid, or you had not already purchased the Kahr board, send it to a pro. What I do for all power/driver boards that come through here is...
...replace J101, 102, 103, 112, and J114...all power in/out headers.
...replace J115, 120, 121...all the GI headers.
...replace C2 and C4. C2 leaks. C4 is in the 5VDC circuit.
...replace C5. C5 is the big 15,000uf cap that filters the 5VDC.
...remove solder at the LM323K and flow new solder into the joint.
On the MPU...
...replace C31, 5V filter cap
...replace J210, power input header
...socket and install NVRAM
...replace the voltage watchdog with a version that trips at lower voltage
...I'll mostly socket U20 (the ULN2803) on WPC-089 MPUs as was done for WPC-S and WPC-95 MPU boards
I hope this helps you and others.
I'll leave you with, we all start somewhere. We all have to learn by doing eventually. I remember the first time I looked into a solid state backbox...and thought...what the hell? I was an EM guy. 
I might as well also leave you with, "There is no try. There is only do or do not".
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Quoted from ChrisHibler:Your Paragon had a single socket where the 5101 was replaced with NVRAM.
But...your RoadShow has a 6264 that is soldered onto the board...no socket.
That's 28 pins to desolder successfully. Without the right tools and experience, I'd let someone who does have those things take care of it. It's a $250 board in a $3-4K game.
If your game isn't resetting with the Kahr band-aid...leave it on there until you have another reason to repair the Power/Driver board.
I wouldn't mess with what is working.
But, if the game is resetting with the Kahr band-aid, or you had not already purchased the Kahr board, send it to a pro. What I do for all power/driver boards that come through here is...
...replace J101, 102, 103, 112, and J114...all power in/out headers.
...replace J115, 120, 121...all the GI headers.
...replace C2 and C4. C2 leaks. C4 is in the 5VDC circuit.
...replace C5. C5 is the big 15,000uf cap that filters the 5VDC.
...remove solder at the LM323K and flow new solder into the joint.
On the MPU...
...replace C31, 5V filter cap
...replace J210, power input header
...socket and install NVRAM
...replace the voltage watchdog with a version that trips at lower voltage
...I'll mostly socket U20 (the ULN2803) on WPC-089 MPUs as was done for WPC-S and WPC-95 MPU boards
I hope this helps you and others.
I'll leave you with, we all start somewhere. We all have to learn by doing eventually. I remember the first time I looked into a solid state backbox...and thought...what the hell? I was an EM guy.
I might as well also leave you with, "There is no try. There is only do or do not".
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
You are Yoda!
I think I’ll leave the kahr band aid for now, enjoy the game, and see if the resets return in the winter without the kahr in place. I still believe this is a summer voltage issue.
How much do you charge to repair the above on a power board if I sent it to you?
Quoted from ChrisHibler:What I do for all power/driver boards that come through here is...
...replace J101, 102, 103, 112, and J114...all power in/out headers.
...replace J115, 120, 121...all the GI headers.
...replace C2 and C4. C2 leaks. C4 is in the 5VDC circuit.
...replace C5. C5 is the big 15,000uf cap that filters the 5VDC.
...remove solder at the LM323K and flow new solder into the joint.
On the MPU...
...replace C31, 5V filter cap
...replace J210, power input header
...socket and install NVRAM
...replace the voltage watchdog with a version that trips at lower voltage
...I'll mostly socket U20 (the ULN2803) on WPC-089 MPUs as was done for WPC-S and WPC-95 MPU boards
I hope this helps you and others.
Great summary @chrishibler. Do you have a similar breakdown for Sys 11?
Quoted from ChrisHibler:Your Paragon had a single socket where the 5101 was replaced with NVRAM.
But...your RoadShow has a 6264 that is soldered onto the board...no socket.
That's 28 pins to desolder successfully. Without the right tools and experience, I'd let someone who does have those things take care of it. It's a $250 board in a $3-4K game.
If your game isn't resetting with the Kahr band-aid...leave it on there until you have another reason to repair the Power/Driver board.
I wouldn't mess with what is working.
But, if the game is resetting with the Kahr band-aid, or you had not already purchased the Kahr board, send it to a pro. What I do for all power/driver boards that come through here is...
...replace J101, 102, 103, 112, and J114...all power in/out headers.
...replace J115, 120, 121...all the GI headers.
...replace C2 and C4. C2 leaks. C4 is in the 5VDC circuit.
...replace C5. C5 is the big 15,000uf cap that filters the 5VDC.
...remove solder at the LM323K and flow new solder into the joint.
On the MPU...
...replace C31, 5V filter cap
...replace J210, power input header
...socket and install NVRAM
...replace the voltage watchdog with a version that trips at lower voltage
...I'll mostly socket U20 (the ULN2803) on WPC-089 MPUs as was done for WPC-S and WPC-95 MPU boards
I hope this helps you and others.
I'll leave you with, we all start somewhere. We all have to learn by doing eventually. I remember the first time I looked into a solid state backbox...and thought...what the hell? I was an EM guy.
I might as well also leave you with, "There is no try. There is only do or do not".
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Chris,
I checked out your website.
Very fair prices.
Cheers!
Quoted from Pinash:Great summary ChrisHibler. Do you have a similar breakdown for Sys 11?
Thanks!
For System 11 games, on the MPU...
...socket and install NVRAM (6264 if possible otherwise 6116)
...replace 1J17, power input
...replace 3X 100uf caps for input power
...replace 2 or 4 (depends on board revision) caps in sound section. 2X 10uf caps will always be present on 11/11A/11B boards.
...if any alkaline damage is present in the reset section, scrape the section and replace with modern reset generator per PinWiki.
On the PS...
...replace the big 5VDC filter cap. It is sometimes an 18,000uf cap, sometimes other values. A 15,000uf cap works perfectly fine.
...replace 47uf, 100uf, and 330uf caps (although these don't leak like they do on Data East power supplies)
...replace all headers
Hope this helps.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
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