(Topic ID: 215891)

Prototyping a "Hardtop" (High Speed)


By Skypilot

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 521 posts
  • 84 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 67 days ago by Troyster42
  • Topic is favorited by 71 Pinsiders

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There are 521 posts in this topic. You are on page 11 of 11.
#501 6 months ago

Chalk that one up to pure luck. After all the hell I went through with that, I'm really surprised it looks like it does. It's still not perfect if you're right on top of it and you're especially critiquing it (really, I'm not hung up over this, I don't care) but from playing distance, it looks juuuuust fine. I really wish I had polished metal parts while it was all disassembled. Some of them are.... Not great.

Also not really liking a lot of the pictures I took thus far.. Hopefully I can muddle my way through

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#502 6 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

but from playing distance, it looks juuuuust fine.

I think it looks way better than just fine - and with all the trouble you had with it, you have to be very happy with how it turned out. Great job!

#503 6 months ago
Quoted from ReadyPO:

I think it looks way better than just fine - and with all the trouble you had with it, you have to be very happy with how it turned out. Great job!

I'm very surprised by it, for sure lol

I wish I had just not been stubborn about tripping across town for naptha before I EVER got the idea of painting. It would have been even nicer. Oh well.

#504 6 months ago

Leaving it here for the weekend. I'm beat, but I wanted to see how I felt about the warm white GI before I started stacking a bunch of crap on top.

Still need to do the following:

-wire in all flashers I had to snip
-build flippers
-fix trough solenoid (guessing my solder job sucked and that's why it won't kick the ball over)
-install pops
-star rollovers (need to place my Marco order)
-install ramps/plastics (duh)
-LEDs underneath the PF

Then I get to do all the misc tweaking and adjusting that's necessary.

Are these two switches for flippers? I can't figure out what the hell I marked them aside for and my pictures are lame.

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#505 6 months ago

Bleh. The majority of my solenoids aren't working and several bulbs apparently have bad diodes which is making the LEDs not work properly on a few spots. Frustrating.
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#506 6 months ago

Tech Tip: This might be a little late, but if you want the ball to move faster and cleaner,
----- you need to counter sink the metal sidings to the kickouts and the main ball launch
----- side rail.

#507 6 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Tech Tip: This might be a little late, but if you want the ball to move faster and cleaner,
----- you need to counter sink the metal sidings to the kickouts and the main ball launch
----- side rail.

Why would that make a difference? The height of the trough should be the same since it's mounted on top of the hard top?

#508 6 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Bleh. The majority of my solenoids aren't working and several bulbs apparently have bad diodes which is making the LEDs not work properly on a few spots. Frustrating.
[quoted image]

If the non-working lamps that are not working are in a group or inline with each other, it could be a bad scr on the CPU. You can verify with the schematics. On my game, the arrow insert lamps leading to the ramp were flickering. I traced it a scr, swapped and fixed it.

#509 6 months ago

I sent all my boards off for full service in December, it seems weird that he'd have missed SCRs but I guess I need to ask him if that's something he checked. I need to finish LEDs also, I only replaced one set of red/green/yellow lights and left 1-6 incandescent because they weren't working right in attract (they all lit but not all would ever go off again). When I start a game I'm getting all three green lights (flashing) but also one red (incandescent).

What a headache.

#510 6 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I sent all my boards off for full service in December, it seems weird that he'd have missed SCRs but I guess I need to ask him if that's something he checked. I need to finish LEDs also, I only replaced one set of red/green/yellow lights and left 1-6 incandescent because they weren't working right in attract (they all lit but not all would ever go off again). When I start a game I'm getting all three green lights (flashing) but also one red (incandescent).
What a headache.

Ahh but that's the fun of bring a game back to life. Rewarding when you get there. Not that the tech missed a bad scr, it could have went out recently, remember these games are 35 years old and not built to last this long. The scr could be shorted or stuck open. It's a cheap fix though. It might be a pain in the ass but I would put all incandescent lamps back in and get all the lamps a 100% then start adding LED. I'm pretty sure sys 11 doesn't need special drivers for LED like the early Bally/Stern do.

#511 6 months ago

This one was working fully aside from a bum battery holder (adjust failure on boot) before I tore the PF apart and sent boards off.. Definitely feels like I'm going backwards right now. Bleh

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#512 6 months ago

If you still think the CPU is a 100% and since the pf was out of the game for a while, go back and check the wiring. Make sure no wires came loose, broken solder etc. Also double check the connectors, are they all tight? But I would still do what I suggested in post #508. Also make sure you didn't bend any of the diodes on the lamp sockets, can be shorted to the base and reek havoc.

#513 6 months ago

I will completely verify connections--both on boards as well as at playfield-level tonight. No sense extrapolating anywhere else until I'm REALLY sure that's 100% correct. But post 508 is good info for sure.

3 months later
#514 89 days ago

I am making slow progress on my hardtop. I have been most apprehensive about cutting out the rollover holes. I ended up using a compact router and a flush trim bit. It turned out perfect. I made a video in case it was useful for anybody out trying to figure out the safest and easiest way to this.

Now the *only* think left is to swap everything from the original to the replacement...ugh!

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#515 88 days ago

So I really want to do this to mine. How does the game play. Does anyone happen to have extensive time on their game since they installed it?

#516 88 days ago
Quoted from Bax1:

So I really want to do this to mine. How does the game play. Does anyone happen to have extensive time on their game since they installed it?

Installed one on my Flash Gordon, it plays beautifully!!! Very smooth, ball rolls very true without the skidding you find with a play field protector. Plays like a newly clearcoated play field.

#517 88 days ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Installed one on my Flash Gordon, it plays beautifully!!! Very smooth, ball rolls very true without the skidding you find with a play field protector. Plays like a newly clearcoated play field.

that is good to hear. I may dig into mine then and get this done. Love how it looks finished.

#518 88 days ago

Plays like a sheet of glass. Well worth doing.

I can't seem to get two of my pops set up right, they just fight me the whole damn way. At one point a skirt got stuck and the pop locked on.. And my fuse was wrong so my board went poof. Round trip for repairs (second time my guy worked on my boards) and I'm working again, but with pretty crappy pop(s) except for the bottom one.

Hope you have better luck there than me..I simply can't get them. But the hardtop is amazing.

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#519 87 days ago

Hi all,

I'm starting to go down this road. I have my playfield out and starting to disassemble everything and I have a couple questions later in the process. The main one is I have new plastics and was looking at the stand offs to mount to the playfield and some on top to stop the ball from getting stuck. Whats a good way to install the new plastics? I have read something about heating the old ones some grinding and other things but the posts a a little old and was wondering if there is a better way now? The other question is the pops, In this thread I saw about taking the out the bracket pins and other threads I saw just to leave them in. What have you all done?

Thanks in advance

#520 87 days ago
Quoted from Troyster42:

Hi all,
I'm starting to go down this road. I have my playfield out and starting to disassemble everything and I have a couple questions later in the process. The main one is I have new plastics and was looking at the stand offs to mount to the playfield and some on top to stop the ball from getting stuck. Whats a good way to install the new plastics? I have read something about heating the old ones some grinding and other things but the posts a a little old and was wondering if there is a better way now? The other question is the pops, In this thread I saw about taking the out the bracket pins and other threads I saw just to leave them in. What have you all done?
Thanks in advance

I popped mine out and will use a countersink drill bit to enlarge the holes on the hardtop for reinsertion. It's the easiest time to do it and I consider it a small gift to ether the future me, or the next owner in the case they ever need to be replaced.

2 weeks later
#521 67 days ago
Quoted from RobF:

I popped mine out and will use a countersink drill bit to enlarge the holes on the hardtop for reinsertion. It's the easiest time to do it and I consider it a small gift to ether the future me, or the next owner in the case they ever need to be replaced.

Thanks I take it this is for the counter sinks on the pops. I have everything of and starting to sand and for me I cant see why to remove them. Its a long story but this machine wont leave me. I have been able to get the stand offs out of the plastics now.

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There are 521 posts in this topic. You are on page 11 of 11.

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