(Topic ID: 77369)

Proper finish/plating for TOTAN apron


By bstyles

5 years ago



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  • 15 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by bstyles
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 5 years ago

Can anyone tell me what the original proper finish of the apron/arch for Tales of the Arabian Nights is?

It looks like Cadmium to me, and if that's the case, does anyone have a source to get an apron re-plated in the proper finish?

I've spoken to Chestnut on this topic and he doesn't offer Cad plating, only brass.

Thanks in advance,
-Brian

#2 5 years ago

Hi,

I believe the finish is yellow chromate over zinc plating.

1 week later
#3 5 years ago

Anyone else have an opinion?

As mentioned in my OP, I've spoken to Chestnut. He says he plates them in polished brass (Gold look). This is not what I want. I would like to know what original finish is and perhaps what the restorers are doing.

Hope no one objects to the bump.

-Brian

#4 5 years ago

I do have an opinion, but from the sounds of things, you won't agree with it. My opinion is that the original finish was a poor choice, and that's why they all look like crap now. Maybe brass has more shine than you'd like, but I'd at least look into alternate finishes that may not be original. I was cheap and simply painted mine, and I'm happy with how it looks, but if I had it to do over, I might give brass or even powdercoat some consideration.

#5 5 years ago

Powdercoat may be an issue when applying the decals, no?
http://www.littleshopofgames.com/Games/totan.html

#6 5 years ago
Quoted from herg:

I do have an opinion, but from the sounds of things, you won't agree with it. My opinion is that the original finish was a poor choice, and that's why they all look like crap now. Maybe brass has more shine than you'd like, but I'd at least look into alternate finishes that may not be original. I was cheap and simply painted mine, and I'm happy with how it looks, but if I had it to do over, I might give brass or even powdercoat some consideration.

Get the apron and the sword brass plated by mike chesnut, treasure cove offers decals that will look great with brass. You won't regret the look from chesnut

tzij.jpg
#7 5 years ago

I actually went the brass route from Chestnut originally. He sent me a high-polish brass apron, but the gold look was too much 'bling' for me. I sent it back.

There are places I use the clear-coated high-polish brass and chrome, like the wireforms in my IJ, WCS94, ToM, PM and MM. They look great and hold up to abuse well. I've even had a few playfield parts chromed, like the magazine bracket assembly for Playboy 2002.

However, in other places, I prefer the look of originality. I don't like brass/chromed side rails, lockbars, coin doors or legs (unless of course the legs are supposed to be brass).

I realize others may have a different preference, just pointing out why I sit at this juncture....

-Brian

#8 5 years ago

I am doing a roadshow and had the apron stripped basecoated then put decals on and clearcoat. I have to say that I saw a HEP MM done this way and it looks very good that is an option as well any decent body shop can match the color and clear

#9 5 years ago
Quoted from stephenshane237:

I am doing a roadshow and had the apron stripped basecoated then put decals on and clearcoat. I have to say that I saw a HEP MM done this way and it looks very good that is an option as well any decent body shop can match the color and clear

Yeah, RS has a solid black apron, so paint is an easy fix (in comparison to plating). In fact, nearly all of my 30 pins have black aprons, CV being an exception in purple, and even that being an easy color to paint-match.

The only oddball is TOTAN -- that apron appears to have been plated, and it is just a matter of figuring out what exact plating was used.

-Brian

#10 5 years ago

I think the process is also known as Yellow or Gold Cad.

I've used this stuff before from Eastwood on Muscle Car restorations (for engine compartment parts) and been quite happy with the results.

It used to be a four-stage process IIRC (no guarantee ), but I see they've now reduced it to three stages:

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-golden-cad-system.html

#11 5 years ago

As I noted above, the original process is zinc plate, with a yellow chromate finish (the part is first zinc plated, then dipped briefly in a yellow chromate bath).

#12 5 years ago

Rick with PPS and I are working on remaking Williams aprons. When I showed it to our plater he explained that it was most likely zinged coated in hexavalent chromium, a highly toxic chemical. There are very few places that use this formula anymore due to the fact it isn't RoHS compliant with the EU. The newer safer formulas are undesirable since they do a bad job of matching the original finish at all.

The most promising avenue we have found right now is a translucent powder coat that replicates the original color quite a bit, while being extremely durable. If you're in no rush you may just want to wait and be able to buy a new one. While we would like to make it an exact copy, I believe that we are really making an improvement without it looking too "blingy"

#13 5 years ago

For the heck of it, I'm going to try yellow Cadmium plating, then apply the decals, then clear the entire thing for protection. I'll post pictures and results.

#14 5 years ago
Quoted from bstyles:

For the heck of it, I'm going to try yellow Cadmium plating, then apply the decals, then clear the entire thing for protection. I'll post pictures and results.

The Eastwood DIY kit or some pro shop you found?

#15 5 years ago
Quoted from NM:

The Eastwood DIY kit or some pro shop you found?

Sent it off with a local car restoration shop's batch to a local plater. Should be back this week.

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