(Topic ID: 116874)
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Flintstones, The
Williams, 1994
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Columbus, IN
First parts were on the doorstep when I returned from storage - a Mars bill acceptor
I had a good used US coin door in storage as well, so I grabbed it, the export door on the Flintstones won't hold the DBA.
Appears I need a wiring harness, and a different faceplace for the DBA before I can mate everything up. So goes learning new things 
Rocky at times!IMG_5480.JPGIMG_5481.JPGIMG_5482.JPGIMG_5483.JPG
Quoted from dankme:Ha! Best of luck John!
Is it a reimport? My Flintstones is too and has that same damn lock drilled into the cab by the start button! Is that for the operator to give the game credits with a key?
Yes, I'll have to look later and figure out what country it was in. This is a game I bought from a guy in Ohio who bought it, tore it apart, and decided it was too big a project for him to undertake. I have $550 in the base game. Pretty sure other than a few screws and nuts, it's all here, just have to put it back together. But, it's filthy, so I'd have had to strip it anyways..
Found out that there are more than 1 Entropy WPC-95 style door on the market, probably a production change at some point. I grabbed a new Pinball 2000 door off the shelf, and found that the lower DBV cutout was slightly different - a notch along the top of it. That allows the DBV to clear everything
I grabbed a photo of the blanking plates comparing the 2 doors. I'm not gonna throw a new door on this game for the purpose of going on route - but I have a nice used one on my Corvette that has the correct lower cutout - so I'll swap.
So, the game is filthy and has its fair share of hacks. I've seen them all before, though, so fixing them won't be difficult.
After unloading from the car and wheeling into the shop, I snapped a few photos of the game. Nothing great, just figured I'd take a few. Will delve deeper shortly.
It needs new legs, bolts, plates and I'm probably going to install a set of the metal stern cabinet protectors. The cabinet already has some damage, but no reason to not keep it from getting any worse.
I'm not a great artist, but luckily, this cabinet is mostly black, so it won't be difficult to touch up.
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IMG_5491.JPGThanks JR, I'll do that!
After rebuilding a Firepower driver board tonight, I decided to spend about 30 minutes tearing into the Flintstones. Man, it's dirty and hammered. That wasn't unexpected, so I guess I shouldn't be too surprised.
Pop bumper rings were the most hammered I've ever seen a set. I guess new rings are hard to find in Germany?
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I've got some spares, so I'll replace these.
I did some digging, and found most of my flintstones parts, both the parts that were taken off the playfield when I got the game, as well as stuff I've picked up along the way. Found a very nice used set of plastics that will help spiff the game up.
More progress
Right now, I'm making a parts list. Thankfully, most of the broken stuff is fairly generic, and early in my collecting career, I parted a few games and kept a lot of generic parts. I feel guilty as hell for doing that, but the fact that I've probably saved 5x as many games as I parted, using those bits and pieces, makes it a little easier to sleep at night.
I've abandoned any thoughts of just slapping a quick shop job on this game. Not gonna happen. It's too filthy. This game is going to have to receive the level of attention one of my high end restores receives, while not ending up as nice of an end product, due to cabinet condition, parts availability, and somewhat budget. While I could make it work without tearing everything, I don't think it'd be much fun.
I do believe I will start watching for a reasonably priced NOS playfield, as once this comes off route, I would like to add it to my collection, but I think I'm going to want a nicer playfield. I've got plenty of playfields I could trade, but I'm not at the position where I could spend big money on one today.
Pretty much everything in the flippers and pop bumpers are destroyed. These are usually worn in games, and need full rebuilds, but I usually end up with some decent used spares when I go through them in games. Not this time!
I'm going to have to level the big dictabird insert in the center of the playfield, and that concerns me a bit. The last time I tried to do something like that, I messed up and ended up buying a NOS playfield for my WCS 94. But, I'll assess everything once the playfield is out of the game.
I took the plunge, and upgraded my ultrasonic cleaner from a measly 1 quart unheated to a 12 quart with heat! Should be here By the weekend!
Everything coming off this game is so dang filthy, It was just time!
Some more pics coming soon - working on putting together the first parts order!
Well, it's been about a week..
I grabbed a few shots as I made slight progress this week. I'm working to my deadline, and think I should be able to be done in time.
The entire cabinet is stripped. Ground braid is out, everything else is out with the exception of the leg bolt plates - because I needed them to hold the cabinet up! I've got a bunch of goodies coming from PBL, including Stern metal cabinet protectors, new buttons, etc. We've had pretty decent weather as of late, so I'm hoping I can wheel this outside, sand the floor clean, mask the floor and respray the interior and back of the cabinet.
After brushing out the floor of the cabinet, I was blowing my nose and having black crap come out of it. I've never seen so much solenoid dust in the bottom of a cabinet!
I've been playing with different mixes in the new ultrasonic. I loved my old one, and the new one is much much more awesome. Bigger and better. Challenging keeping it hot enough in an Indiana winter, as it's too loud to bring inside the house.
The flipper coil is just for reference - showing how large the ultrasonic is.
Got some nicely cleaned up parts. The stuff is clean now,but needs to be polished up. On a less worn game, I think the ultrasonic would be enough - but as much as this game has been played and abused.. it's gonna take the tumbler as well.
Finally, the cabinet harnesses are drying. They spent about 30 minutes in the ultrasonic, then I blew them out with my air compressor.
I hope to have the cabinet and boards pretty well along this week, and then start on the playfield next week.
DSCN2656.JPGParts starting to arrive, including some Pyle and Dayton Audio speakers for wiring up a custom speaker upgrade set. Back in my bump car days, I'd never touch the brand Pyle, but they sound pretty dang nice on a DCS sound board!
Parts are being cleaned in the ultrasonic, and will be tumbling shortly.
IMG_5577.JPGSome more dirty pictures
Backbox insert, coated in Nicotine (or is it tar?)
No amount of scrubbing will return this to the original brilliant white, as shown under the sticker
Hardware before a 5 minute dip in the ultrasonic
After. 5 minutes wasn't long enough to strip the paint, but did a nice number on the other dirt!
The paint can be removed either with lacquer thinner, or inside my bead blasting booth. I think I'll try the thinner first.
The cleaning continues!
A nice day (in the low 40s) in Indiana today, so I did a little sanding.
Inside of the cabinet, before:
I thought I grabbed an 'after', but apparently, did not.. so that'll have to wait. It's not quite there yet, but it's better than it was.
Lamp board before
Lamp board after
I need to upgrade my sander at some point - but this worked OK for this point in time.
So, progress, albeit minimal, is progress.
I went to Lowes because I needed a new magnet for plucking parts out of the tumbler, and I needed some hardwood dowels.
Also needed some masking paper for masking the bottom of the cab off, as well as other areas I don't want to get overspray on.
The cabinet interior is being sanded and repainted for multiple reasons, but the biggest one is just to get rid of the smoke smell. I'm a non-smoker, and the fine people of Europe seem to be smokers in large. This is a German game, which doesn't typically smell as bad as French games, but it still had a bit of a stench to it.
A shot of the interior of the cab after the first sanding pass:
And the reason for the dowels? Some hasp holes, as well as other device holes.
I take a drill bit, and see what size barely fits in the hole, and then I get a dowel rod of the diameter and cut it off in my miter box saw.
Hopefully, the person who drilled the hole was somewhat straight with their drilling. They are easier to fill if you are going to re-decal, as you can use a chisel to adjust the length slightly without worrying about scarring up the wood. In this case, I'm going to paint the ends of the dowels with black acrylic paint to match the cabinet, and call it 'close enough'.
But, the painting will come at the touch up phase for this cab. Thankfully, Flintstones won't be too tough to touch up to the point it looks reasonable. I'd like a nicer cabinet for in my home, but since this will be earning its living for awhile, I'm not going to fret over that at this time. But, I still don't want any extra holes, where things could find their way into the machine.
The first load came out of the tumblers. Luckily, most of what I thought was damage from the ultrasonic is polishing out.
2nd load is in the tumblers now, and the 3rd load was cleaned in the ultrasonic, prior to tumbling.
Parts are arriving, and I've realized I ordered too many of some parts, and not enough of others. Anyone who has ever shopped or restored a pin knows that feeling. I'm resisting the urge to just go out and place those 2nd orders yet - odds are, I'll realize I've forgotten more!
Quoted from Blackbeard:Coming along well.
I really give you guys that just toss screws/posts/washers into a tumbler all together. I'd be a wreck trying to figure out where those little pieces all go at the end. That's why I haven't tried tumbling yet.
You must be measuring posts and screws, etc.? Igenerally just clean the metal parts, mostly posts, by hand and place them in a marked ziplock.
The thought of all those parts together In a tumbler makes me nervous!
Honestly, cleaning and tumbling washers and locknuts is probably false economy.
I buy most of them by the hundred box or larger from McMaster-Carr to replace the really nasty ones, or the missing ones, so I've got plenty - and they cost pennies.
Yet, for some reason, I always clean and tumble them along with the other hardware. It's kinda like the shorter yellow zinc coated hex screws that are used to hold the tabs of the lamp sockets in place. Cleaning them *destroys* them, because the yellow zinc is completely removed - and this is one you don't want to mess up, because the tabs are so thin, if you put a regular length screw through them, you could go through the artwork on the playfield.
Once you've done enough, though, stuff starts to become obvious. This goes here, that goes there - I've been at this for almost 15 years at this point.
Yes, I've taken something apart, and wondered how it goes back together before. I take more pictures than I post, so that helps.
A lot of time, I'll take an assembly, and take photos at various angles, then take photos as I tear it apart at various angles, and finally, a shot of all the individual parts of the assembly on my workbench.
So, I know a particular assembly has specific pieces in it, or it's not complete.
When I re-assemble, I take a PDF manual and print out their diagram of the assy, and what parts it should have - because after 15 years on route, you have no idea if it was ever serviced - and if it was serviced, if it was serviced correctly.
I do measure standoffs as I tear down a machine. I put a steel scale or a ruler next to it, and snap a photo, so I make sure I get the right post back in the right place. I don't think this game will be too bad, but some other games that have a ton of posts, like BSD or Congo from memory, required a bit more care when tearing apart and reassembling!
Quoted from Blackbeard:That mess of wires would cause my anxiety to skyrocket.
That's only the solenoid harness. There are several others (switch, lamp, cabinet, etc)
1 week later
So, after cleaning the harnesses, I drained the ultrasonic.
How a harness gets that dirty, I'll never understand
A few cosmetic items for the restoration roll in...
A few more damaged parts turn up after cleaning and tumbling. I'll replace this - when the assembly was dirty, I didn't notice it!
I decided to try color coding my ignition wrenches, sockets and cleaned fastener storage to match my Klein nut drivers - which seem to have standard colors that match other brands.
If the electrical tape doesn't last, perhaps I can get some paint pens or something else to work with.
This is what was left behind after cleaning the bits of walnut shells out of all the hardware. I always use a nice towel under my parts to keep them from bouncing off the workbench/table, as well as capture the walnut shell bits.
Roughly 3 hours were invested in sorting the fasteners tonight, as well as pulling the walnut bits out of the nooks and crannies. A dental pick makes quick work of the job.
Finally, the PCBs were cleaned. I want all my games to be clean enough that I can work on the game - whether it be fixing something broken, adjusting something in need of adjustment - whatever - without getting my hands filthy. This game had such a stench to it, along with such a layer of grime, there really was no other way but to deep clean everything - which is how I prefer to do all my machines!
If I could just get a warm enough day to do my paint work on the cabinet.. I'm nearing the point of reassembly. I will probably start rebuilding the assemblies this week - not the order I like to do restorations, but a necessity due to the cold temps here the last couple weeks.
After doing a few restorations, you establish an order of operations - to avoid gaps of time where you can't do anything - and to avoid waiting on certain things you might need.
For example, I like to let harnesses and boards dry for at least a week before applying power to them - so I arrange tasks in a manner that allows that - harnesses and boards get cleaned very early on normally.
Quoted from cosmokramer:How do you prefer to clean the boards?
Scrubbing bubbles. Spray the board down, scrub with a paintbrush, rinse, rinse with 91% or better isopropryl alcohol, then dry with the air compressor.
I always set them in front of a fan for a few days as well to make sure they are completely dry - but you really need to use a blow gun and make sure all the areas that could trap water are completely dry.
Quoted from zerbam:do you have to pull socketed chips before cleaning?
Socketed chips and fuses are a must. Gotta pull them.
On older boards, say Sys 7 or earlier, pull any relays, as they are not sealed. DIP switches also are not sealed on these boards.
Quoted from peclark:Hey John, great thread! I've wondered what would work well to clean boards, but have been apprehensive to try anything much more than alcohol. Which scrubbing bubbles do you like to use on the boards? Is it this one?
http://www.scrubbingbubbles.com/Products/Pages/multisurface-bathroom-cleaner.aspxI've been on the fence for a while on getting a larger sonic cleaner, mainly just because of how often I use it, but I think based on your experience with yours I might go ahead and get one. I'm curious about how loud it is though. I've not heard that in other threads where folks are talking about the brand you got. How bad is it?
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I use the stuff in the aerosol can. It foams and you can just watch junk run off the boards.
As far as the ultrasonic, it definitely is loud. All 3 I've owned were loud. No louder than my tumblers or air compressor, though
Replacement drop target frame arrived today!
This is from a Shadow. Trimmed to clear some things I'd guess - but it's pretty dang close.
The only missing thing is the hardware that goes in the bottom of the frame to limit how far the reset arm can drop. I can drill the frame and use a machine screw with 2 SEMS locknuts - one on each side of the frame - to replicate the purpose.
Really getting crippled by the lack of quality warm weather - I need to do some sanding and painting to move forward very fast.
Little things going on - ordered a few more parts. Bought a full Cointaker LED kit, including flashers and did the non ghosting upgrade. Pinside discount saved me $41.20!
Still trying to find a nice used playfield and a drop target bracket. Found a NOS one at PPS, but it has drywall screw holes in it, and $600 is above what I feel it's worth, considering the fact that it'd need repair, clear, and isn't dimpled/drilled.
Debating over whether or not this is the game I want to 'test' the ezsbc LM323 and 7812 regulator replacements on. I have a couple of each, to try them out.
Been working on boards for customers most of the day. Hope to dive into some of the Flintstones assemblies tonight. And maybe finish up the boards, too.
Dove in tonight and got a fair amount done after finishing up some customer boards.
CPU had a ramtron added, don't want to leave batteries in the game - no different than any of my others
Once rebuilt, I stuck it in the test rig to burn in a bit.
Did a little more to the driver than I initially planned. I got a couple of the EZ SBC LM323 regulator replacements, and thought I'd give them a try on this. Really want to vet them as a solution before I offer them to my customers. Also replaced C4, as C5 had been replaced by the previous tech to work on this board, but not C4. Upgraded from 100 ufd to 470 ufd. Doesn't quite fit on the board 'right', but it's doable.
Also replaced the LM7812 at Q1 with one of EZSBC's products and the 100ufd cap at C2. C2 is known on these boards at this point to start leaking and spew electrolyte on the boards, and eat up traces. So, I thought I'd nip that in the bud before it happens.
I also put fuses in the driver board, verifying the values match the manual. And I replaced the 2 secondary input headers, and the header taking power from the driver board to the CPU. These were all a bit tarnished, and the jumper wires originally connecting the TPs on the driver board to the CPU indicate that this may have been a weak point. I'll repin the harnesses that plug in to these plugs as well.
Hopefully, this brings the temp in the backbox down a bit, and makes it more stable. The 7812s don't often go bad - I change a few LM323s, but I figured I'd try the 7812 replacement at the same time. It doesn't require a heatsink!IMG_5748.JPG
Also hooked up the FS DMD driver, after verifying fuse values.
Quoted from polyacanthus:As a noob I wondered if anyone operated games anymore. Do you think it'll pay for itself or more?
Yes, people still operate games. I know a number of operators. None of them are driving a Benz or wearing lots of jewelry
Do I think it'll pay for itself? If my labor is free, at a 50% split, I don't see it paying for itself short term. I paid $550 for this game several years ago, but have put a LOT of parts into it - haven't set back and totaled it up - but I know I'm over 1k on the game and parts at this point.
But, I always wanted to try operating to share the love of pinball with people who don't know about it, or have never played a completely/properly working game. Let's face it, that's not gonna happen in my basement - if some weirdo I didn't know said 'hey, do you wanna come over to my basement and play some pinball??', I'd probably fear for my life and run.
What'll happen down the road, I don't know. It's possible I could hate it, and decide it's not for me and never try it again. I may enjoy it, and decide I need more games on route. Only time will tell!
I just use scrubbing bubbles and a paintbrush on lamp boards. Don't know that I'm ready to clean boards in my ultrasonic.
Some more parts rolling in today...
What do you do when your black targets are beat to death, but you can't buy them anywhere?
I did a little math, 13 targets in this game, about $7 per target (if I could get them all...) - all new targets would be $91 + shipping - or, $1.25 per face at Planetary Pinball, 25 cents or less per target for new foam, 15 cents or so per target for new rivets - under $2 per target to make them work and look good as new!
And, the magical LED kit. Never been a LED fan, but I'm gonna give it a try so I can have an educated opinion. Went with a kit for the first time, versus rolling my own.
Bought 2 new ramps for the game today, one all the way from Australia! My originals are pretty horrid. Since it's going on route for now, I will see if I can salvage them enough to use them on route, until it comes home, but I'm not sure there is enough left to save.
Suddenly, I'm starting to realize why this game was $550. The 'steal' may have turned into a not such a steal.. keep in mind, that price was almost 10 year ago pricing - a fraction of what today's prices are.
Quoted from Blackbeard:John:
I see your pics of the cab/backbox being painted. Did you do any exterior painted and/or patching of wood?
I'm likely restoring my wh20 backbox in the spring and like to hear other's experiences. Did you use spray paint? Primer?
I used spray paint. Rust Oleum Painters Touch Semi Gloss Black. I didn't prime the wood.
I masked the floor, other than the transformer board, as the transformer board was pretty hammered and stained up, and sanding won't clean it up as well as I'd like.
I filled all the drill holes in the front of the cab with hardwood dowels. I'll touch them up with black paint. The front of the cabinet is almost all black anyways. That is as much to keep things from getting inserted in holes as it is to make it look better.
There's a fair amount of wood damage on the exterior of this cabinet. I'm in a position where I'm trying to decide the direction to go long-term. I'm not an artist. Giving me a paintbrush is generally a mistake. I can take a black paint marker when I'm done, and do some touch ups, but I can't make it look CQ.
My plans long term for this game, if I decide to make it a collection 'keeper', would be to restore it again, with some custom cabinet artwork using the Hanna Barbara characters, assuming this title never gets remade (I'd say there's a good chance it won't - but long term, we have Rollergames and a few other non-A titles, so I don't want to say NEVER), and a restored / CC'd playfield with the original characters airbrushed in, similar to the one HSA did.
Obviously, there are a lot of factors in this picture that are yet unknown. Maybe I'll love it, and I'll decide I want a minty fresh one that doesn't need restored. Maybe I'll like the way it earns and leave it on route. Maybe I'll decide I don't like it after all, and sell it the way it ends up.
I use the same painters touch paint on the speaker panel, as well as all the carriage bolts going through the cabinet - the carriage bolt heads will be primed, they will be painted, and I may clearcoat them. I also use it on backbox hinges if they need it.
My goal is to have a decent cosmetic game that plays the way it was intended, and is reliable. This one will not be a high end restoration, I'd start with a better quality base game if that were the intention.
Quoted from jmountjoy111:I am glad you posted that last part. When you listed earlier in the thread that you had picked this machine up for $550 I thought that you had robbed someone lol. I also would love to own a Flinstones some day.
I got the game in several boxes, never got to see it work, it was one of the filthiest games I've ever seen, and I've spent at least as much in parts as I paid for the game.
In retrospect, not even considering the fact that it's been sitting in my storage unit for more than 5 years, I would've been money ahead to buy a nice one.
But, it is what it is, and I'm going to get a good player out of it, minimally.
Old ratty stained up lamp insert. No amount of cleaning would remove all the bulb burn marks.
Some white krylon does the trick. It took about 6 faint coats to cover everything up.
Excuse the mud on the back porch, my 7 year old digs beside it sometimes, and I need to get the garden hose out and spray the patio down - but it has been raining on and off all week, so I don't want to soak the back yard anymore right now.
No clue on the decals, I'll transfer mine as they are ok.
How long did the shipment take from overseas? Did you choose air mail or ?
Use freeze spray or an upside down can of canned air to freeze the decal. Clean the adhesive off the old decal with goo gone. Clean the decal good with dawn soap and warm water and let it dry. Use 3m 467MP tape (double faced with clear adhesive) to put the adhesive back on the artwork, and then re-apply to the new ramp
Done it many times, it's really not bad.
So, I needed to get the speaker panel configured for the 5-1/4 speakers.
One side is already done - easy peasy.
So, how to get the 5-1/4 on the other side?
Well, Tony's Guide is a good start..
http://dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_replacement.html
I have done probably 10 games using his guide and have always been happy. I believe it's best on DCS or later games - the earlier pre DCS games just don't have the power to drive better speakers, unless you want to add an amp, and I have never found one I wanted to go that far with.
So, I started with this..
My Dad is a woodworker, so I asked him to make me a jig after looking at Tony's site. Figured it would be the easiest way to get the hole in the right place.
A router is probably an even better choice, but I don't have a router, and I do have a drill press. I'm kinda thinking I might like to have a router for a number of reasons, but that's another discussion
So, stick the speaker panel in the jig, put the circle cutter in the drill press.. couple clamps for good measure
Drill a little
Drill a little more..
Now, the speaker hole is perfectly sized, in the right spot!
I forgot to take pictures of the process of using a speed square to mark out the new holes, and then drilling new holes, but Tony's site covers that pretty well.
Then, I use a forstner bit to cut the t-nut recess with the drill press
Don't drill all the way through the panel. Just drill enough so the flange of the t-nut will fit below the speaker grill
Ready to re-attach t-nuts!
Now, I've had a few of these made by a buddy on a CNC mill.. unfortunately, he no longer has access to the CNC. His work looked nicer than mine. His machine was a million bucks. My drill press is a hand-me-down from my Dad, with a jig made out of scrap lumber, a $20 circle cutter, and a $10 forstner drill bit set from Harbor Freight.
Once the t-nuts are installed, and the panel is resprayed.. my modified speaker panel looks pretty much as good to his from the players perspective, and once the speaker is installed on the back side, you'll never notice if a screw is off by a centimeter or something
Ramp is heavily blown out. When I strip it down, I'll clean it up and reasses. Wanted to order the ramps while I could find them, because if I wait until I need them, they may not be there
Started refinishing the cabinet carriage bolts today. This game had been in a very humid or moist environment, so a lot of fasteners had surface rust on them. The rust cleaned off very easily, but the finish left was pretty sub par.
This really is a fairly straightforward process.
I cleaned them in the ultrasonic and tumbled them. Once I tumbled them, I chucked them in a drill, and pushed them into a scotch brite sanding pad to rough the surface up real well, and make sure there was nothing left on the heads of the bolts after they'd sat for awhile, sorted in the parts trays.
Then, I wiped the heads of the bolts down with alcohol, and stuck them in a cardboard box. I made Xs in the cardboard box spaced apart, and shoved each bolt into one of the Xs
Let them dry for a bit, and shot them with black primer.
After the first coat dried, I gave them a 2nd coat, as I found a few spots the first coat didn't cover.
The primer is rather satin-y, I'll spray them with the semigloss tomorrow, then depending on the results, I may clearcoat them.
Installed new leg bolt plates and Stern cabinet protectors today.
This cabinet is heavily worn and well loved.
But, these will keep it from getting worse. I am considering painting the cabinet where the artwork is wrinkled off. With the pattern on this cabinet, flat black won't look that bad.
So, a little progress tonight, starting to reinstall stuff...
Front of the cab, coming together! I need to order the correct gold leg bolts, I thought I had a set, and didn't!
Woofer in place. This little Dayton Audio woofer is a great fit on DCS games.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dc160s-4-6-1-2-classic-shielded-woofer-4-ohm--295-308
Another enhancement, the Mantis Amusements ball trough, special thanks to my buddy RD!
I'm sure we are all used to the stock troughs, that get divots in them, and have to be filed out ever so often...
Kerry made a neat-o trough that has hardened rods in it that the ball rolls along that should pretty much never wear out - and if they do, flip them over and wear the other side out!
And, it has its own answer to the captive ball stop built in.. slide the lever up, the balls can't fall out of the trough!
Quoted from Pinwow:I have ALOT of nos plastics for this......... From the looks of it, this is coming along nicely
Great project
I might have some trades, if you're interested in parting with some of them
If removing the wiring isn't for you, you can put some old bulbs in the sockets and they will keep the contacts clean while you respray.
Once you've removed all the hardware (you don't want to paint that, right?), the harness isn't much more work to remove.
No need to remove the wiring from the backbox sockets.
Find a socket about the size of the hole in the backbox insert, place it against the sockets, and give the sockets a few gentile taps with a rubber mallet. They will come out with gentile persuasion. If you don't wail on it, there will be no need to push any wires back into the sockets - they won't come out.
Well, I went ahead and cleaned the board ground plane and installed the boards tonight - before I realized I haven't braided the head and cabinet out. Oops. Oh well, they will be safe for a few days until I get around to braiding the cabinet
Found these in a folder today, came with my 'adult' translite.. really debating how wise it would be putting a game on location with an overlay. Makes me wonder how likely it is to stay 'down' without lifting. The pink one isn't for me, I don't expect I'll be using it
IMG_5931.JPG 2 months later
Since I'm lacking on updates...
I am having a tough time dedicating the time to getting this ready, so in the meantime, I decided to put another game in the location.
I'm preparing my white water to go on location. This is a 100% working, great playing game that is in my restoration queue - but I'm putting a Color DMD in it this week. Expect to have it on site in about a week. Right now, I installed the Cliffy VUK drop protector, as the ball is getting hung up on the mini playfield occasionally where it ejects the VUK, and am putting in the Mantis lock target protectors, repairing a couple stripped post holes, and just giving the game a thorough once over.
Once the Flintstones is ready, I'll bring White Water home. I have a new set of playfields for it to install at some point. Maybe the coin drop will make a dent in the set of ramps I need to buy for the restoration.
I'm also swapping in a solid lower cabinet from a parted out machine. The one on the game right now is really rough!
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