Flintstones, The
Williams, 1994Installed new leg bolt plates and Stern cabinet protectors today.
This cabinet is heavily worn and well loved.
But, these will keep it from getting worse. I am considering painting the cabinet where the artwork is wrinkled off. With the pattern on this cabinet, flat black won't look that bad.
So, a little progress tonight, starting to reinstall stuff...
Front of the cab, coming together! I need to order the correct gold leg bolts, I thought I had a set, and didn't!
Woofer in place. This little Dayton Audio woofer is a great fit on DCS games.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dc160s-4-6-1-2-classic-shielded-woofer-4-ohm--295-308
Another enhancement, the Mantis Amusements ball trough, special thanks to my buddy RD!
I'm sure we are all used to the stock troughs, that get divots in them, and have to be filed out ever so often...
Kerry made a neat-o trough that has hardened rods in it that the ball rolls along that should pretty much never wear out - and if they do, flip them over and wear the other side out!
And, it has its own answer to the captive ball stop built in.. slide the lever up, the balls can't fall out of the trough!
I have ALOT of nos plastics for this......... From the looks of it, this is coming along nicely
Great project
Quoted from Pinwow:I have ALOT of nos plastics for this......... From the looks of it, this is coming along nicely
Great project
I might have some trades, if you're interested in parting with some of them
Yeah I might, I'm actually at a show right now so I will see exactly what I have when I get back
Thx
Quoted from johnwartjr:Another enhancement, the Mantis Amusements ball trough, special thanks to my buddy RD!
I'm sure we are all used to the stock troughs, that get divots in them, and have to be filed out ever so often...
IMG_5894.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
Kerry made a neat-o trough that has hardened rods in it that the ball rolls along that should pretty much never wear out - and if they do, flip them over and wear the other side out!
IMG_5896.JPG (Click image to enlarge)IMG_5897.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
And, it has its own answer to the captive ball stop built in.. slide the lever up, the balls can't fall out of the trough!
IMG_5898.JPG (Click image to enlarge)IMG_5899.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
That's sweet!
Wow! This is a project of love! You do an amazing job on cleaning up the parts! I'm even more impressed you can figure out where all those screws go! My luck, I would have a lot left over!
Thanks for taking the time and snapping all the pics of your progress! Very fun to watch! 
Joe
Quoted from Pinwow:I have ALOT of nos plastics for this......... From the looks of it, this is coming along nicely
Great project
Pinwow - I am nearing the end of a Flintstones restore as well. There were a few plastics that I was considering replacing due to some slight yellowing. Do yo have a list, pics and prices you were looking to get for these?
Quoted from johnwartjr:image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
Old ratty stained up lamp insert. No amount of cleaning would remove all the bulb burn marks.
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
Some white krylon does the trick. It took about 6 faint coats to cover everything up.
Excuse the mud on the back porch, my 7 year old digs beside it sometimes, and I need to get the garden hose out and spray the patio down - but it has been raining on and off all week, so I don't want to soak the back yard anymore right now.
I'm considering doing this on mine as well. I really don't see myself removing the wiring. Is there another method to covering the bulb sockets from getting painted?
If removing the wiring isn't for you, you can put some old bulbs in the sockets and they will keep the contacts clean while you respray.
Once you've removed all the hardware (you don't want to paint that, right?), the harness isn't much more work to remove.
Okay...thanks for the advice johnwartjr. I'm thinking of cotton balls stuffed over top of the sockets but haven't tried it yet...seems like it would work. Haven't taken the wiring apart before on the backboard and don't have the IPS tool to push wires back so I'm a little leery. It's not horrible but definitely has a bit of a yellowy tinge. Hmmmmm....
Spent sooo many hours touching up a spot on the playfield that I missed before it was cleared....grrrr.
Finally got it but was really hard to match the yellow...not great but better than it was. As usual, the clear made darkened the acrylic. Luckily it's in the outlane near the bottom and only the size of a pea. Not sure that I have the energy to tackle the backboard today.
I would strongly suggest buying an LED OCD board for this game. Even though you won't be playing it regularly since it will not be at your home, it's worth every penny of $150. There's a good chance the unsmoothed bright flickering LEDs would disorient and turn off at least a few of your customers.
John,
I can't believe it has taken me this long to stumble onto this post.
WOW...you're really doing a serious number on that machine.
(and I thought I got pretty deep into my restores)
If you need a hand w/ anything, you know how to reach me.
No need to remove the wiring from the backbox sockets.
Find a socket about the size of the hole in the backbox insert, place it against the sockets, and give the sockets a few gentile taps with a rubber mallet. They will come out with gentile persuasion. If you don't wail on it, there will be no need to push any wires back into the sockets - they won't come out.
Quoted from johnwartjr:No need to remove the wiring from the backbox sockets.
Find a socket about the size of the hole in the backbox insert, place it against the sockets, and give the sockets a few gentile taps with a rubber mallet. They will come out with gentile persuasion. If you don't wail on it, there will be no need to push any wires back into the sockets - they won't come out.
Okay...you've talked me into it. I know it's the right way to do it but I just finished putting the playfield back together and getting a little anxious to finish up in short order. I'll let you know how it went. 
Well, I went ahead and cleaned the board ground plane and installed the boards tonight - before I realized I haven't braided the head and cabinet out. Oops. Oh well, they will be safe for a few days until I get around to braiding the cabinet
Found these in a folder today, came with my 'adult' translite.. really debating how wise it would be putting a game on location with an overlay. Makes me wonder how likely it is to stay 'down' without lifting. The pink one isn't for me, I don't expect I'll be using it
IMG_5931.JPGSince I'm lacking on updates...
I am having a tough time dedicating the time to getting this ready, so in the meantime, I decided to put another game in the location.
I'm preparing my white water to go on location. This is a 100% working, great playing game that is in my restoration queue - but I'm putting a Color DMD in it this week. Expect to have it on site in about a week. Right now, I installed the Cliffy VUK drop protector, as the ball is getting hung up on the mini playfield occasionally where it ejects the VUK, and am putting in the Mantis lock target protectors, repairing a couple stripped post holes, and just giving the game a thorough once over.
Once the Flintstones is ready, I'll bring White Water home. I have a new set of playfields for it to install at some point. Maybe the coin drop will make a dent in the set of ramps I need to buy for the restoration.
I'm also swapping in a solid lower cabinet from a parted out machine. The one on the game right now is really rough!
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Columbus, IN
Melville, SK