Here I go and wish me luck. I am ready to pimp my pro. Here is what I am starting with.

Mantis protector.
Changing ramps to the le ramps with pre-drilled holes. Pinball life
PF supports. pinball life
White & yellow rubbers. pinball life
LED's. Cointaker
Shaker Motor. GAP
Arcade mod. TILT Thanks Jeremy
Flynn sign mod. Thanks Mike
Pastic protectors. Pinbits
Apron cards. Pinball decals.
Toys coming from ebay.
2 kinds of EL wire to try. Cool lights 5mm.
External 10" sub. Polk audio on ebay.
Pdi Glass. Pinball decals.
I also want to add led's to recoginzer. Need to go to radio shack tomorrow. IMG_0340.jpg IMG_03410000.JPG

I sold my LE early on to get the nice TAF. I regret that. But, I am happy with this project. They play the same.

I had an LE. I admit it rocked! I regret selling it and the software will not help with the el wire I know. But, I like the black better. I like that I can change the LED's. I also like that the recognizer does not have that long metal arm even though it does not move it just looks better to me. All said and done this is approx $1,000 or so in add ons.

EL wire, supports, shaker, leds, ramps = $700 ish.

Who knows, I trade so much I can't remember what games I liked or not anymore. BAck to work then bed. Later gang.

I will update and let you guys know how it is going. I will even post on how I ordered the EL wire so it came EXACTLY how it should be already soldered with two different colors. It looks like I will just have to hook up to power and run it. Cool lights will do it all and it came in two days ready to go. Glow hut will do that too. First, I have to see which I like better when lit. I ordered two different color schemes in two different thicknesses. The thick one could be too bright. I know I did have to replace the ramps. I did not want to try drilling my own. I also did not want to use an adhesive that could gather dirt over time. So, I am doing it like stern did. Ill update over the weekend. Looks like I will be installing this Modps board too now!

Well so far not so great. I finished most of my LED kit and plastic protectors while taking off ramps. I then plugged in my two different sets of EL wire only to find they are not very bright at all. Glow Huts is better than cool lights but neither will work. I emailed both places for any insight. I may turn to markmons choice of websites. I will keep you posted. The pic of it being tested inside the cabinet shows the colors but on the playfield installed on one ramp you cannot even tell its aqua. The orange is the same.

IMG_0361.JPG IMG_0362.jpg

Yes it is turned on in that second pic.

I'm out $100 between the two orders. Custom of coarse so I bet they will not take back. I am researching more. Now to bed.

Had it connected to 5 volt. oops. Thanks TATMAN for clearing that up for me. Now which set do I like better. ?
Left set is thinner and darker. Right side matches back glass "Tron Neon" better.

IMG_0367.jpg IMG_0369.JPG

Going with the right side. Thicker looks better on the ramps as you the line it creates looks more smooth.

Not finished but here is the update. I love it! Matches the art on the back glass.

IMG_0372.jpg

Now for the light cycles..... ugh....more wire.....

Ramps look to be the same. I could have drilled. Im glad I did not. This is enough work as it is. I am a slow learner but, I have been at it since 9:30 am. RE-installing ramps now. Making the light cycle mods sucked... I am inpatient tough.

I'm done. Except for the new arcade mod in the mail. I press start and the flashers by the spinning disc starting flashing and the score keeps going up up up up and up.... it does not stop. Like a stop watch or something I am thinking interference? WHat should I look for that I did wrong? Going to bed for now And troubleshoot the issue tomorrow. It looks great though.

IMG_0377.jpg IMG_0379.jpg IMG_0381.jpg

Well if I unplug the EL WIRE the problem goes away totally. Great.

Yes I found that thread and read it. He is on pinside as well. I messaged him. I just tried re-routing the extra el wire beneath the pf and it did not help. On RGP many thought it was the inverter. I have used these inverters several times in the past on other games. It is not the inverter. I unplugged the thick EL wire that is installed on the ramps and plugged in the thinner wire I have. The problem went away if it was just thrown on the PF. If I bunched it up and piled it over the disc it would start the problem. My guess thus far is it is the thick 5MM EL wire I have installed. Maybe it just has more noise associated with it. I can half ass install the thin wire tomorrow by jut throwing it around the ramps and see what it does. I bet that is why Markmon is not having a problem. I think he used thinner wire. I will play and see. I want to be sure before I rip this out.
If anyone has any insight I would appreciate it. I only worked on TRON today for 13 hours

No plug. I have a 12 volt inverter wired to sterns extra power harness for mods. It is not the inverter I know for sure. It is the wire itself being near the disc opto. I am bummed... Not gonna yank it until I know for sure. I have the thinner wire but it was a ton of work. I emailed a few people to see if they have any tips.

Anyone have any thoughts? I unplugged the el wire for now.

The Le is NOT worth $8500 and now it's personal.... LOL

I know for a fact that some NIB's have gone for $8500. I actually like the black on the pro better imo. Anyway that subject is dead. I am gonna take a day off from pinball work and just play. It plays I just unplugged the el wire for now. I am gonna exhaust resources and learn more about EL wire and why it seems to interfere with the optos for the disc. I may end up ordering the fiber optic if that is what has to happen. The trouble is I LOVE the way this El wire came out. Totally happy with it. My version of an LE and happy who'd a thunk?
Meanwhile, back at the ranch..... The polk sub sounds AMAZING. I will add a sub to all my pins from now on. Stock speakers stay, clip the wire to the sub and run it to the external sub. I have the crossover set low and volume on half. it sounds KILLER! absolutely top knotch. THRILLED with it.

I have emailed a couple different people including someone at stern. I will change it if I have to but I really want to make what I already installed work. The though of tearing it apart again makes me wanna vomit. and vomit again.

IT's 12 volt inerter is simply wired to the 12Volt harness stern provides. Early on I had tapped it to 5 volt hence it being dark.... Tatman explained that. Now the interference though. Ugh.

I am going to order a wall type power source to see if that is it. I figure it is a cheap option to try.

Hi guys. I have hallmark cycles on it now. Waiting for the wall adaptor for now.

I am waiting to get a couple things in the mail. I am going to try using a regular wall plug. I am also going to try a different inverter that will arrive in a couple days. I am not convinced either will take care of it. I was told the interference should not be that much to affect the game but, I don't think they realize how sensitive pinball components like optos are. Worse case I will order fiberoptic tube lights. I will update when I play some more this weekend.

U2sean, since your EL wire is out try winding it up in your hand and moving the light around your PF, then you can see if it's the actual light spectrum that's causing the interference (ie. maybe

I tried this. I disconnected the thick EL wire on my ramps and connected the thinner EL wire I have. I bundled up the lit EL wire on put it near the disc. It went nuts. Though with the then wire it seemed to only go nuts if it was all bunched near the disc. I will no more when I get the other inverter / drivers in the mail to try.
Meanwhile, my Arcade mod came today. IT is AMAZING!

IMG_0383.JPG IMG_0384.jpg

I was told by an EL rep that it would not be the light spectrum but the "noise" created by the driver/inverter being sent though the tube with the light stream.

I did this and the problem ceased. So it is the opto board at the very edge of the PF that is getting too much interference. Now if my new inverters do not change things how can I isolate this thing without hurting it?
I wish I could post video of what it does.

This is the little bugger that does not play well with EL Wire.

IMG_0388.JPG

I unhooked the board from the playfield and wrapped it in 3 layers of foil while hanging about 4" off in the cabinet. So something in the board just does not like the noise it is getting.
I'll give up for tonight and wait for the new inverters.

Yes, a former pinsider also suggested that to me and I appreciate that. I will stop there as soon as I can and get a couple to try.

I am completely thrilled with the mod and am grateful I got in while he still had some. It is a work of art. Hands down the best mod I have bought to date and I have bought TOOOOOO MANY!

Played a little with them and no change. I am not done yet but cannot work tonight. I will play this weekend and update.

GREAT NEWS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The AC Adaptor came today. It is a output of 12.5VDC 800mA. I plugged it into the service outlet and the wall of the house and the problem is GONE!!!!!!! I had to cut the female plug off the end and figure positive and negative to the inverter. I am still going to try to hardwire the new inverter when it comes to see if I can still have it work the other way. I wish the service outlet would turn off with the game???????? But it works and I think I will just plug it into the wall and run a foot tap extension cord to it. I did notice that this AC adaptor makes the inverter a little louder. Maybe the new inverter will be quieter none the less. When playing though the music covers it. I am soooooooooooo happy I don't have to run new EL wire again. Unless I decide to run the New ULTRA bright EL wire that is....... Too Bright? I dunno.

Once I figure the best way to do this completely I will post EXACTLY what I bought and where for anyone trying to do this without the drama.

Couple pics with the start button pressed. NO ISSUES!!!!!!!

IMG_0393.JPG IMG_0396.jpg

Working on it Gweem! Radio Shack has lots of LED's to play with
My goal is to make my own mods in the future.

I like this thick 5mm EL. During the drama though I found some 2.6 MM that is said to be 3x's brighter. Dare I change it? Hmmmmmm. Maybe next winter.

I agree. Plus I like the thickness of this. I think I was told the LE uses 7mm tubing. This EL wire is 5mm and it seems pretty perfect. Along the right ramp return their is a spot where the switches are that this EL wire was a tight fit but, it worked. I'm gonna leave it.

Wow, Thanks!

As soon as I complete trial and error with the inverters I will post details. I would rather it be connected to the 12 volt line but if not. I am good with what I have. Ill be back.

Not yet, still waiting for other inverter to try.

The cycles are tHe hallmark cycles on eBay. You have to rig them. If I can do it anyone can.

Yes, Metal loops just pull off. Small screwdriver then to get the ring off his back from around the button that makes it light up. Then use a hot solder iron to melt the plastic around the button while pressing it down to keep it on at all times. Then take batteries our of the bottom and solder a + and - to each accordingly. Then cut a little bit of plastic off of the battery so that the wire can go through(keeping in mind which way the bike faces and the wire should come out facing toward the back of the game. Orange cycle wire just goes directly behind to the right corner down through the big hole and wire it to the first GI light you come to underneath. The other cycle is just as easy, take the wire straight back over the ramp ( you cant see it from player postion) then run along the other ramp to the left corner down through the hole on that side and find the first GI light you come to. They only work one way so you can't mess it up.
To attach the bikes your going to use the screws that came out of the little bikes on the plastics. Take a small drill bit and drill dead center up thru the tires just a little hole is all. not thru the rim but where the tire and body meet up. It is thicker there. Then hand screw the plastic onto the cycle and tighten. If that is done correctly you won't even need to secure the back tire at all.
That's it!

Oh yeah.. you may have to glue the ring back on around the button. Mine actually broke when pulling it off but then I was able to just glue it into place and you can't tell.

Waiting on other inverter still. Though I have a solution ( 9volt wall plug) I am still going to play a bit with the ModPS and a different inverter when it comes.
Today I added the new armor kit and I love it.

IMG_0419.jpg IMG_04220000.jpg IMG_04240000.JPG

Pinball life. You would need to ask Terry if anymore can be ordered.

It came with the yellow bats and they had black rubbers on them. I have not decided where to go with them. I don't mind them in person but in pics they stand out.

Thanks. That would be great.

Thanks gex!

I have not made that box switch yet. Still going to try the other inverter first. For now though, I did just install the recognizer mod. I think the white lights are a little bright. I might black them out a little with some black paint. have not decided yet. But it looks great. It is also well made by Kimballs pinball.

IMG_0425.JPG IMG_04260000.JPG IMG_04270000.JPG

Ok gang. Here is the rest of it like I promised. Now, I know their would be several sites and ways to make EL wire work. Here is what worked the best for me.

I ordered my EL wire from
http://www.coolight.com/default.asp

The actual items needed in your cart should look like this.

http://www.coolight.com/category-s/59.htm
Choose BLUE/GREEN and ORANGE 5.00mm (If you like my colors) I chose quantity 13 of each. rather have a little extra on the ends like in the pics. Just in case. I went with 5mm as it does not show little bends. It looks smoother to me than the thin wire. It was a little snug on the right return ramp (left side) by the one switch but it worked.

http://www.coolight.com/12-5Vdc-Wall-transformer-800ma-w-2-5mm-plug-p/tr12.5v800.htm
One of these. This is the white plug into the service outlet like in photo.

http://www.coolight.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CO1MFF&CartID=6
1 of these.

http://www.coolight.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CO1MF&CartID=7
2 of these

http://www.coolight.com/product-p/cl-isc-12v-35-50ft.htm
one of these. this is the inverter. Little blue box in pics.

http://www.coolight.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=LeadWire%2D22g%2F2c%2DBlk&CartID=5
This is just wire to give you plenty of running length. I chose quantity 6. or 6 feet. it worked well.

http://www.coolight.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Connection%2FSolder%2DService&CartID=4
4 of these. This is the service charge per connection for them to wire it all for you.

All of this in my mock cart I just did to type this was $73.10 without shipping.

Now this is super important. I actually wrote this to them in the order comment to their staff.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Coolight staff:
Thanks for reading this. I need this to arrive all connected and ready to go as follows please.
From the ac wall plug I am purchasing I need the inverter connected with about 3 foot of wire between the two. Then from the inverter I need 6 feet of the black lead I have purchased leading to the splitter from each splitter with the 2 additional connectors I have purchased I need approx 1.5 foot of black lead wire on each of them leading to each color (13') of the EL wire. This will be to light to plastic ramps on a pinball machine. Thank you very much for doing this for me.
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So when you get it it will be in a bag ready to go. First, follow GEX instructions in the post above and wire the service box to turn on and off with the pin. It took me 10 minutes to do it. His instructions are spot on! Thanks GEX!
Then run your wire through the holes into and out of the ramps on either side. (Look at my pics).
Then reconnect at the Y adaptor if you disconnected them out of the bag. They should have arrived all together on one big piece of awesomeness. Run your wires neatly like in my phots. I used gallery putty to stick the blue inverter to the cabinet. then plugged them in. THat's ot

Also in the photo you see I did use the 12VOLT harness from stern for the Flynn sign mod and the recognizer mod. I just used the splitter from Pinball life and that was it. Simple.

This Tron project was fun to do and turned out awesome. I did already sell it though. It is going to North Carolina on Saturday. I have use for the cash though I absolutely love the game. Follow these instructions and it should be perfect!

IMG_04340000.JPG IMG_0433.JPG IMG_04350000.JPG

two more

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http://www.dkpinball.com/DKWP/?page_id=181

Before I got Tron ready to move I had been using this awesome little guy. I am going to send it back to Mike at dkpinball. He was kind enough to send it to me to try it out. It is cool. On new stern games you can use this to power mods, dim mods, it has a couple options. It also has a pass thru so you still have your stern 12+ harness available. The coolest is that the two alligator clips just get a signal from anywhere on the GI circuit so you can make whatever mod you have plugged sync with the GI lights. It is a very cool device and has he makes more of them I would absolutely pick one up if you like to play around like I do. Great work Mike! Keep it up and thanks. I will have this back to you ASAP.
CG

Here is how the EL wire came but it did not have the AC adaptor on it as I ordered that after I had my issues with the 12volt line. But your should come like this with the adaptor as well.

IMG_0341.JPG

This was quick and easy. I had to cut off sterns crimp cap. You will need a large crimp cap as their will end up being 4 thick wires to combine but that is it. Make sure it is on tight before you put it back together.
Thanks again GEX!

Can I go to sleep now?

The sticker will be forwarded to the new owner if it does not arrive today. Thanks for the sticker they are so cool. I am bummed the game is sold but, I need the funds right now is all. Long boring story. Thanks again though.

I did try the ModPS with the same interference present. Something about that hardwire 12 volt line that stern leaves must just have a lot of noise in it. The way I did it is great. IT does not blink with the GI or anything but it looks great. I actually like it when the game goes dark for a second and the ramps remain lit. It is VERY cool.

Trust me. If I can do this. Anyone in this forum can. I am not a Tech or "Very handy" by any means. Ask GAP.. LOL

I did use a large twist cap. Then I used strong electrical tape just so I felt better

You would have to play first. Measure ramps. Drill holes etc.... It would work though. Just adjust lengths of EL. Maybe measure with string first. Using the same order above but determining your own specific length needs. Would look awesome.

Wow! Thanks for the post. It's cool to see some of you using it. It makes it all worth it! Nice work!

Should I do that again?

Where are they hooked for power?

Mine were dim when they did get enough power. I had them hooked to te wrong wire. If its just the blue then maybe the splitter is not connecting correctly. Their is a special way to cut and crimp them. Not sure.

Led strips at autozone are super cheap and work well.

You guys rock! It's very cool to see you using this thread still. I was just trying to spread the tron pro love. Stoked it's helping make things a little easier. Awesome work!

I bought the LE ramps and I no longer own the pro in this thread. Not sure who does now.

I bought the LE again.

That's awesome Chad. Glad your still enjoying it. The ELI kits looks to be pretty darn epic imo.

Not sure but I think they are getting closer.