Hey Frolic,
in the pic above your Orange cycle is off. Mine goes out randomly and returns. You as well?
Hey Frolic,
in the pic above your Orange cycle is off. Mine goes out randomly and returns. You as well?
Yeah, orange cycle stopped lighting up, but we haven't spent any time looking into it. I'm going to guess it has to do with the on button. The cycles were the most difficult mod of everything since it was not plug and play.
I did buy 2 sets of back up bikes, though, just in case they burn out. I'm going to guess they will be harder to get as time goes on.
Quoted from Mudflaps:I tried to tie it into the maintenance port, and got the 'ghost' scoring within seconds. Now tied into a smart strip inside the can with no issues after 3 months.
So, you have the smart strip plugged into the wall and then the game itself plugged into the "control" outlet on the smart strip (inside the cabinet)?
Quoted from Benaar:So, you have the smart strip plugged into the wall and then the game itself plugged into the "control" outlet on the smart strip (inside the cabinet)?
Exactly. Only one wire from the wall to the game. Everything else is inside the cabinet.
Hello. Hoping someone on here has some insight for me. I want the light cycle bikes to be on all the time. Id like to wire them to the 5v in the front of the cabinet. Has anyone here done this, and if so is the 5v safe to run these bikes on constant? I know some people here were wiring them to the tron pro inserts, and i would assume the 6.3v ac would burn them out over time. Will they last on the 5v?
Quoted from drummerweene:Hello. Hoping someone on here has some insight for me. I want the light cycle bikes to be on all the time. Id like to wire them to the 5v in the front of the cabinet. Has anyone here done this, and if so is the 5v safe to run these bikes on constant? I know some people here were wiring them to the tron pro inserts, and i would assume the 6.3v ac would burn them out over time. Will they last on the 5v?
I answered you on the other topic with the same question
Ok so i know people are looking for the post to be finished, but the truth is there are so many ways to skin a cat, and some have questions, and some some insight to help. I have a good question and if we can find a clean way of doing it i think it will be an idea that a lot may like and want to set up.
I am looking to have the el wire that i am putting into the machine, along with the light cycles to start glowing only after the start switch is pressed. There are a lot of reasons for this and if you arent intending to use a PIG, and just want these lights on all the time, my idea may be a solution for a lot of reasons.
#1, the EL wire has a life span, and for those of you who have it set to be on constant and have your machine on for a portion of the day, the el wire will begin to loose its luminocity unlike the fiber kits which will be out soon.
#2 the light cycles also will have a light span, as these bikes were sold as ornaments with a momentary, and could eventually burn out if left on, especially with the extra .5 volts to the board.
SO here is my idea, and if someone could think of a trigger point, will work
I want to set up a relay for each mod. The el wire inverter will be on one, and the light cycle power feed on another. We interrup the positive feed to the inverter with the relay, and the same on another relay for the 5v to the bikes. Now we just need a trigger to enable these relay circuits.
I want them to enable when a game is started and disable when a game is finished. In this logic you can enjoy the light show, but not have the el wire constantly glowing when it isnt being used. Now we know of a few items which receive power when the start button is pressed. We get music, and we get the high voltage circuit enabled that feeds coils.
Real question from someone who knows pins, is where is a safe circuit to use to trigger these relays!! I was thinking maybe just using a high voltage relay that can handle the coil voltage as a trigger. My other idea was looking for 12v, or 5v which only is on when the game is in play. Are there any power points in this game, features, etc preferably DC that i can use. Any ideas? I really want to see this work and i think it might be something others with 12v knowledge who arent looking to uses a PIG may want to implement. The only thing holding this idea from working is a safe circuit to tap off of to trigger my relays. Will AC voltage even work to trigger them?
Thanks, and i hope for some insight. Sorry for the long post, but you can tell i really want to see this work!
Quoted from drummerweene:Ok so i know people are looking for the post to be finished, but the truth is there are so many ways to skin a cat, and some have questions, and some some insight to help. I have a good question and if we can find a clean way of doing it i think it will be an idea that a lot may like and want to set up.
I am looking to have the el wire that i am putting into the machine, along with the light cycles to start glowing only after the start switch is pressed. There are a lot of reasons for this and if you arent intending to use a PIG, and just want these lights on all the time, my idea may be a solution for a lot of reasons.
#1, the EL wire has a life span, and for those of you who have it set to be on constant and have your machine on for a portion of the day, the el wire will begin to loose its luminocity unlike the fiber kits which will be out soon.
#2 the light cycles also will have a light span, as these bikes were sold as ornaments with a momentary, and could eventually burn out if left on, especially with the extra .5 volts to the board.
SO here is my idea, and if someone could think of a trigger point, will work
I want to set up a relay for each mod. The el wire inverter will be on one, and the light cycle power feed on another. We interrup the positive feed to the inverter with the relay, and the same on another relay for the 5v to the bikes. Now we just need a trigger to enable these relay circuits.
I want them to enable when a game is started and disable when a game is finished. In this logic you can enjoy the light show, but not have the el wire constantly glowing when it isnt being used. Now we know of a few items which receive power when the start button is pressed. We get music, and we get the high voltage circuit enabled that feeds coils.
Real question from someone who knows pins, is where is a safe circuit to use to trigger these relays!! I was thinking maybe just using a high voltage relay that can handle the coil voltage as a trigger. My other idea was looking for 12v, or 5v which only is on when the game is in play. Are there any power points in this game, features, etc preferably DC that i can use. Any ideas? I really want to see this work and i think it might be something others with 12v knowledge who arent looking to uses a PIG may want to implement. The only thing holding this idea from working is a safe circuit to tap off of to trigger my relays. Will AC voltage even work to trigger them?
Thanks, and i hope for some insight. Sorry for the long post, but you can tell i really want to see this work!
You need to look at THE P.I.G from dkpinball. I have all my mods tied to it and they only come on when the mode is activated. I'm not really worried that the .5 volts extra going to the light cycles. Plus I have 3 other sets I've acquired
I bought extra light cycles as well. Worst case scenario I sell them off.
I did get my orange one working again, it was a connection issue in the wiring.
Hello. I dont really have an interest in them being interacted with. I like the bikes glowing all the time and i like the ramps glowing. Just would only like them on when i have balls in play. Anywhere in the machine that has a low voltage output when the game is live?
Yes i disagree with the drilling or le ramp. Coasterguy, was it 3/4 tape? and is your elwire from coollights still bright after being on up till now? I mean on and off of course
Quoted from coasterguy:I bought the LE ramps and I no longer own the pro in this thread. Not sure who does now.
Why do you keep selling your tron's???
Used the EL wire and inverter kit mentioned by coasterguy. Powered from service outlet. Im getting the ghost scoring with the el wire plugged into the service outlet. If i power the wire using a 12v battery i do not get any interference. Please help!!
Has anyone found a solution for this. I know it has something to do with clean power. Straight DC no issues, but when using a wall wart 12v dc power on service outlet it ghost scores like crazy. I really want to get these lights working. Does using the smart strip really solve this?????
Quoted from drummerweene:Used the EL wire and inverter kit mentioned by coasterguy. Powered from service outlet. Im getting the ghost scoring with the el wire plugged into the service outlet. If i power the wire using a 12v battery i do not get any interference. Please help!!
Has anyone found a solution for this. I know it has something to do with clean power. Straight DC no issues, but when using a wall wart 12v dc power on service outlet it ghost scores like crazy. I really want to get these lights working. Does using the smart strip really solve this?????
Dude, not to be a dick but read the threads. Yes, the smart strip solves the problem. Plug Tron into the smart strip with the EL lights and you'll be good.
Quoted from Mudflaps:I tried to tie it into the maintenance port, and got the 'ghost' scoring within seconds. Now tied into a smart strip inside the can with no issues after 3 months.
THANK YOU! Noise filters built into the smart strips fix the issue
Quoted from Mudflaps:Awesome! Welcome to the Tron club.
Unfortunately i am still experience slight ghost scoring after quite a few plays. Its not near as bad but is occuring. Are there any other steps i can take/ or do you think i should try a different power adapter? I am just using a standard 1 amp 12v wall wart.
Make sure you're using the smart strip by smart home USA and not a Walmart power strip. Amazon link:
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Energy-Saving-Autoswitching-Technology/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=sr_1_2
looked really good. I like the looks of the EL wire better than the color changing ones. Fits the Tron theme more.
Quoted from Mudflaps:Make sure you're using the smart strip by smart home USA and not a Walmart power strip. Amazon link:
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Energy-Saving-Autoswitching-Technology/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=sr_1_2
Ok yes. I was using a wal mart one. Thanks
Does the wall wart make any difference? I am using a 1 amp 12 volt. Is there a specific one that you use with this combo? What was happening was double counts for disks, and random disk awards.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:looked really good. I like the looks of the EL wire better than the color changing ones. Fits the Tron theme more.
Yes it looks cool.
Are you reading the forum backwards Just based on what everyone has reported, the answer is 'yes' it does make a difference Good luck in your quest to get yours working, maybe someone has a solution for your issue out there somewhere hopefully!
Quoted from Mudflaps:Make sure you're using the smart strip by smart home USA and not a Walmart power strip. Amazon link:
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Energy-Saving-Autoswitching-Technology/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=sr_1_2
Quoted from Don1:Are you reading the forum backwards Just based on what everyone has reported, the answer is 'yes' it does make a difference Good luck in your quest to get yours working, maybe someone has a solution for your issue out there somewhere hopefully!
Sir, was not asking if the strip made a difference. I understand it will. What i was asking is is there specific power adapter i should be using as well. Not going backwards. I am a technician asking for advice. I can even tell you it is the noise filtering aspect of these power strips which is the solution, which no one actually mentions. So when you have a logical reason for a solution then it would prevent me asking earlier in the thread if the smart strip really cures it. NOW what i am asking is whether or not at the same time i should be using a specific 12v supply. The one i am using is from ebay. The cool lights website has one for sale, and i was questioning if that was the one used.
I know in the earlier post i used wall wart. I didnt make a typo. I wasnt questioning the wall mart power strip portion of his reply. I was referring to "wall warts as power adapters" Sorry for any confusion. And yes i would like to get it working as well. Too much time already invested.
I'll post one more time.
I'm not a technician. I'm an English major. And what I know is that the smart strip works for me. I'm not sure how or why. It could be magic dust, fairy spells, or midichlorians. No idea.
It works. You have the link. Best of luck and let us know how it goes.
Edit: In regards to the 12v adapter, I used everything from coollight per coasterguy's instructions to the letter. If you're using other means or equipment, I'm not sure we can troubleshoot without more specific information. I recommend using the equipment from coollight.
Quoted from Mudflaps:I'll post one more time.
I'm not a technician. I'm an English major. And what I know is that the smart strip works for me. I'm not sure how or why. It could be magic dust, fairy spells, or midichlorians. No idea.
It works. You have the link. Best of luck and let us know how it goes.
Yes i am following you there, not questioning that. All i was asking was what power adapter you use, meaning the 12v portion. I was going to order the one from cool lights.
Mudflap,
You plug the el wire into the smart strip or in to game and the game in to the smart strip. Not following. Can you show a pic
Thanks
Quoted from drummerweene:Yes i am following you there, not questioning that. All i was asking was what power adapter you use, meaning the 12v portion. I was going to order the one from cool lights.
Gotcha. Edited my post re: the 12v adapter. Recommend ordering from coollight.
Quoted from DCfoodfreak:Mudflap,
You plug the el wire into the smart strip or in to game and the game in to the smart strip. Not following. Can you show a pic
Thanks
I'm good man! We're working with drummerweene. No problems with my Tron.
I enjoyed talking with you at Dan's pin party!
Me too, pleasure. I meant do you ? I just ordere that exact strip. In the game or game to wall?
Thanks
Quoted from DCfoodfreak:Me too, pleasure. I meant do you ? I just ordere that exact strip. In the game or game to wall?
Thanks
Too. Many. Beers.
Monday Night Football, pinside, and Coors Light do not mix.
I plug Tron into the master portion of the smart trip. The EL wire is plugged into the slave position. Everything is kept inside the cabinet. There is only one wire from Tron (the smart strip wire) to the wall. When I turn on Tron, the EL wires are slaved to turn on with the game. When Tron is turned off, the wires are slaved to turn off also.
OK, back to drinking.
Ok thanks. I will order the cool light adapter. Must be less noisy. Smart strip should be ordered this week. I will report back later.
Does it matter that i tied the el wire up with the harnesses in the back for neatness? The way i have it is everything is oriented toward the rear of the cabinet. El wire excesss and harness route to the rear and down that harness, and then go to adapter.
Thanks again for your help!
Quoted from coasterguy:Ok gang. Here is the rest of it like I promised. Now, I know their would be several sites and ways to make EL wire work. Here is what worked the best for me.
I ordered my EL wire from
http://www.coolight.com/default.asp
The actual items needed in your cart should look like this.
http://www.coolight.com/category-s/59.htm
Choose BLUE/GREEN and ORANGE 5.00mm (If you like my colors) I chose quantity 13 of each. rather have a little extra on the ends like in the pics. Just in case. I went with 5mm as it does not show little bends. It looks smoother to me than the thin wire. It was a little snug on the right return ramp (left side) by the one switch but it worked.
http://www.coolight.com/12-5Vdc-Wall-transformer-800ma-w-2-5mm-plug-p/tr12.5v800.htm
One of these. This is the white plug into the service outlet like in photo.
http://www.coolight.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CO1MFF&CartID=6
1 of these.
http://www.coolight.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CO1MF&CartID=7
2 of these
http://www.coolight.com/product-p/cl-isc-12v-35-50ft.htm
one of these. this is the inverter. Little blue box in pics.
http://www.coolight.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=LeadWire%2D22g%2F2c%2DBlk&CartID=5
This is just wire to give you plenty of running length. I chose quantity 6. or 6 feet. it worked well.
http://www.coolight.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Connection%2FSolder%2DService&CartID=4
4 of these. This is the service charge per connection for them to wire it all for you.
All of this in my mock cart I just did to type this was $73.10 without shipping.
Now this is super important. I actually wrote this to them in the order comment to their staff.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Coolight staff:
Thanks for reading this. I need this to arrive all connected and ready to go as follows please.
From the ac wall plug I am purchasing I need the inverter connected with about 3 foot of wire between the two. Then from the inverter I need 6 feet of the black lead I have purchased leading to the splitter from each splitter with the 2 additional connectors I have purchased I need approx 1.5 foot of black lead wire on each of them leading to each color (13') of the EL wire. This will be to light to plastic ramps on a pinball machine. Thank you very much for doing this for me.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So when you get it it will be in a bag ready to go. First, follow GEX instructions in the post above and wire the service box to turn on and off with the pin. It took me 10 minutes to do it. His instructions are spot on! Thanks GEX!
Then run your wire through the holes into and out of the ramps on either side. (Look at my pics).
Then reconnect at the Y adaptor if you disconnected them out of the bag. They should have arrived all together on one big piece of awesomeness. Run your wires neatly like in my phots. I used gallery putty to stick the blue inverter to the cabinet. then plugged them in. THat's ot
Also in the photo you see I did use the 12VOLT harness from stern for the Flynn sign mod and the recognizer mod. I just used the splitter from Pinball life and that was it. Simple.
This Tron project was fun to do and turned out awesome. I did already sell it though. It is going to North Carolina on Saturday. I have use for the cash though I absolutely love the game. Follow these instructions and it should be perfect!
Went step by Step and Ordered Everything !!! Thanxx For the Info and Links costerguy
Cool light sent me out an adapter but it ended up being different than the one used by others. I purchased the power strip reccomended by mudflaps. Ghost scoring was worse than ever. WOndering if the different runs of this machine had different opto board or something, as whatever i did i got ghost scoring. FInal solution and the only way to get this EL wire to work in the game is to run it off of a 12v DC alarm battery placed in the cabinet. I am thinking because it is clean DC power with no AC to DC conversion like a wall adapter, it is the reason i dont get any interference. NOW it has been tested by running it off a 12v battery direct. I have designed some circuits to make this battery and el wire integrate properly. I will be using the 12v harness near the coin door. This 12v will be a trigger for two relays. One of the relays will be triggered on with the game, where this relay would have been interupting the 12v feed from the battery to the inverter for the el wire. This way when the game is powered on, the el wire will go live. Next i will be doing another realy circuit with same trigger, but this relay will be connecting the 110 ac charger that charges the battery, and then when the game goes live, it will break this connection, thus not having any ac interference on the line when playing the game.
Sorry brother. Sounds like you have a plan and are going through all of the troubleshooting necessary. I know the power strip worked for me and many others, so sorry to lead you to a dead end. Good luck.
Quoted from coasterguy:I bought the LE ramps and I no longer own the pro in this thread. Not sure who does now.
I still own the Tron EL in this thread bud. Still loving it and plan on adding ELIs kit when it's finished..
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