I picked up a second Bally Safari while back for parts, but when I got it him I thought, what the hell, I’ll try and get it working.

I stripped the top, cleaned everything up, replaced all the rubbers, rebuilt the pops and rebuilt the flippers.

Now that it’s mostly back together, I though I’d fire it up and see what happens. It has some issues that I need some help tackling.

I have no power to the playfield except for the kickout which is acting really strange. It kicks balls out regardless of game state. My other safari (when the ball drains) cycles the player unit and then kicks out the ball. As soon as this switch is tripped, it kicks out a ball. It even does this once following the game over light coming on.

I do have a schematic, but it’s paper. I bought it from PBR.

I checked the fuses and all 4 tested fine. I reseated all the Jones plugs in the head and in the cabinet. I squeezed the connectors a little to make sure they were nice and tight.

I have GI on the PF, but no switches, flippers, etc. the outhole kicker has power.

Is there a section I should take a picture of and post for you? Is it alright to do that since I had to pay for it? I don’t want to “distribute” something I’m not supposed to.

Perfect. I didn’t want to step on anyone’s toes. A friend of mine is going to photoshop together some high resolution pictures for me into one file. Once I get it I’ll post it up.

Here is a link to the schematics. It's not a scan, so it's pretty big (88MB).

https://sharesync.serverdata.net/us3/s/MvxVWBkdISD1grByAvTGjR003d191d

That's odd. It's a .PDF file. I was able to download it without issue.

Were you able to zoom in? Mine is as clear as the printed copy. There are a few places where it doesn't line up 100%, but I'm able to read everything.

Do you have an example of what the relay & solenoids legend looks like? I only have the schematic and the one with the scoring motor switch stack information.

I didn't have time to go until tonight.

Here is the scan of the schematic.

https://sharesync.serverdata.net/us3/s/sXb7sjuw9OKo3yfB4a5U2c003d191d

So, let's pretend for a second that I'm an idiot and have no clue what you just said.

How do I go about even finding the start relay? By make/break, I think you're referring to the switches that, when the armature moves, the NC side opens and the center switch makes contact with the other side and closes the NO switch. So if I indeed even find the switch, how do I know which side is supposed to be NC? Just in case it has been bent and it's backwards.

Sorry for such basic questions, but I guess we all have to start somewhere.

Well, I'm pretty sure I did it this time.

I looked at the Start relay and it appeared to do what it was supposed to do. I also looked at 10B & 1D both of which looked ok....I guess. My sheet says that 10B should be NC and 1D should be NO. So then the question is what is the "Normal" part? Game off? Game Over? Ball in shooter lane? Switch stack removed from scoring motor?

I then pulled the play field out and tried to get a better look at things and was playing with the relays, manually closing them to see what they did. Every switch should change state when the relay pulls in, correct?

Thinking that made complete sense, I found two that didn't change state. One on the Anti-Cheat and one on the Hold. They were both closed regardless of the position of the relay. I looked further and saw that you can tell if the switch is supposed to close or open based on which side of the switch is the longer and sticks into that plastic thing that moves the stack.

Now that I "had it all figured out", I adjusted the two switches and put back in the play field. I powered on the machine and immediately heard a buzzing, looked down and saw one of the switches arcing for a few seconds and then stop.

Here's the problem.....I have nothing unless I hold in the left flipper. When I do that, the play field lights up and anti-cheat pulls in. On my other Safari, the left flipper is what turns it on when it is off so that makes a little sense, but I shouldn't have to hold it in.

Help!

I appreciate the help, but everyone is giving me too much credit. I don’t even know how to tell what a normal state is on a game when trying to figure out if a switch is supposed to be opened or closed.

Me attempting to diagnose a circuit with alligator clips, having no clue what I’m doing, sounds like it’s either going to end with me getting electrocuted, destroying the game or burning down my house.

I would have no clue where to attach the wires. The schematics make absolutely no sense to me and I’ve tried, really tried to understand them by reading various “how to read schematics” articles.

I need a class or something. Somewhere I can go and have a person point to something and answer my question.

So I’m trying to work through that circuit visually because I don’t know what to do with these jumper wires.

I think I found the “Front Door Anticheat” and it’s closed. I have no clue what or where the “Coin Bounce” is or the “Shut Off”. Mine doesn’t have a shut off switch.

I think the “Bounce” is the one at the bottom of the cabinet and it’s defintily closed.

Just a bump for someone that might be able to tell me where these switches are located.

Thanks for the assurance. I purchased access to his Pinball Ninja website and his EM DVD awhile back (I think it's the same person). I've watched all of the EM videos and the DVD, but I'm still having issues locating things. I was able to fix the sluggish player unit stepper though, so that's a plus.

I appreciate the help offer Dave, but you have a family and spending time with them is more important than helping some bonehead you've never met before fix his busted ass game. I don't like to impose on people and thought I might learn more if I tried to plow through this myself up until the point that I want to set it on fire. I post here because I figured everyone is here anyway so it's not as much of an imposition.

Here are some pictures. In the picture, HowardR recommended I look at the following switches. Front Door AntiCheat (NC), Left Flipper Button (NO), Shut Off (NC), Bounce (NC) and AntiCheat Relay (NO).

Am I correct to assume that the power flows from the Front Door AntiCheat to the Left Flipper Button then to the Shut Off, then Bounce and finally the AntiCheat relay? If so, since I watch the AntiCheat relay latch on when I hit the flipper button, doesn't that mean that the circuit is complete? The problem is that it won't stay in and releases as soon as I let go of the flipper button.

I think the Front Door AntiCheat is the funny looking switch at the far left of the coin door. I'm pretty sure the Bounce is in the bottom of the cabinet and is labeled Bounce Switch. The AntiCheat relay is labled, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for on that.

I can't find the Coin Bounce and the Shut Off. There isn't anything with those labels.

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I'll start poking around tonight. I was looking at the other Safari, but they are different. This one has an "alternator" (whatever that is) in it along with a totally different coin door. Someone also hacked in a power button and some stupid ass credit button, so the wiring is different.

I have to be dumber than a brick or something. I can’t get a reading off this game anywhere with my multimeter.

I grabbed my little pen looking voltage detector and started poking around. I get no voltage (no matter what) through the main fuse. But when I hold the flipper button the backbox illuminates. Maybe I should look at the incoming power before I do anything. Someone hacked in a power switch so I’m not sure if that’s the issue or not.

I have a brand new cord here from PBR that I was going to install but wasn’t sure where things went. The power switch at the bottom of the cabinet can go for all I care.

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Can you be a little more specific when you say "Ohm out"? That really doesn't mean anything to me.

Do I take the black lead and attach it to one lead of the switch and the red lead to the other and measure the resistance? Wouldn't I want continuity so I know if the switches are actually registering as closed?

When I get to the relay, how do I know which switch to test? There are a bunch on that relay.

Holy %#*^in’ $*^! You’re the man Dave!!! That explanation was exactly what I needed.

The lights stay on when I hit the flipper button now! The Anticheat switch wasn’t making contact when the relay pulled in.

It was the switch with the brown /no tracer and the green/white. The switch wasn’t making contact.

I did exactly what you said (except my meter was on tone). Followed it along and viola’.

I’m going to put in the playfield and see if the flipper work. Standby for an update!

Almost everything works! Looks like I need to replace a switch in the pop bumper relay. The switch that is there, appears broken and isn't long enough to fit in the slot on the bake lite (sp) plate. Looks to be broken off at the top and is the one that must fire the coil.

I'm having some bell issues though. Someone hacked up the wiring a bit and the bell just makes a buzzing noise most of the time when it's activated. Almost like there isn't enough power to pull in the solenoid.

Where would I start to try and resolve that issue?

Thanks Dave. The first picture is of the switch that doesn't extend up into the bake lite plate. Maybe it's just a generic switch I can get from PBR?

The second picture is the other part I appear to need which rings the 10 point bell. I found it in the parts manual as A-2858, but can't seem to find anyone that sells it.

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I finally had a chance to open this thing up again. It’s amazing how much life gets in the way of a project game.

Anyway, the entire switch is 1 3/8”, with the actual metal switch blades being 7/8”

If anyone has one, I’m a buyer.