(Topic ID: 231017)

Finding my Place in the Frontier Food Chain -- Bally Style

By TractorDoc

5 years ago


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  • 1,263 posts
  • 130 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by TractorDoc
  • Topic is favorited by 111 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #13 Removing wire guides and pins Posted by TractorDoc (5 years ago)

Post #20 Refurbishing a coin door Posted by TractorDoc (5 years ago)

Post #53 Removing side rails Posted by TractorDoc (5 years ago)

Post #73 Wood rail removal Posted by TractorDoc (5 years ago)

Post #78 Mylar removal techniques Posted by TractorDoc (5 years ago)

Post #267 Start of Fathom Restoration Posted by TractorDoc (4 years ago)

Post #619 Start of Judge Dredd "Refurbishing" Posted by TractorDoc (4 years ago)

Post #714 Start of Taxi Mechanical Repairs Posted by TractorDoc (4 years ago)

Post #751 Start of Earthshaker Repair and Playfield Swap. Posted by TractorDoc (3 years ago)

Post #851 Start of Stargate Shop Job. Posted by TractorDoc (3 years ago)


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#296 4 years ago
Quoted from Mitch:

I follow everyday, but I dont use the favorite option.

Ditto. Sure there are many others..

7 months later
#594 4 years ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

Studying the schematics suggests a 43V brown wire leaves the rectifier/power supply board and should tie in with the flippers/under playfield solenoid. If I have 43V at the rectifier it must be getting lost somewhere between there and its first point of contact with the playfield

I presume the flippers dying too?
Lift the playfield, start a game and hold one of the flipper buttons in. Wiggle the brown wire at the rectifier boards playfield connector and see if the flipper cuts out. You can gently do the same with the harness to the playfield to try and locate the issue - being careful not to move the harness too much because if the solenoid power wire is loose under the playfield you don't want it touching anything else by accident.

1 year later
#1027 2 years ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

#3. I'm not currently able to register credits. I can trigger a voltage change across the wires when I actuate the coin switches but nothing is registering on the displays/across the MPU. I'll probably need to pull the MPU and make sure I did not miss some cracked solder joints on the header pins.

All coin switches and the start button share the red-yellow wire coming from MPU J3 pin 2 so more likely a connection issue with it.
I've never seen cracked header pin solder joints on classic Bally/Stern boards that have traces on both sides.

Lovely work by the way, very impressive!

#1030 2 years ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

I'm more intrigued with the pop bumpers than anything

Are the coil stops new? maybe getting magnetised?

#1032 2 years ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

I replaced it this evening but it blew again as soon as I powered the game on tonite so now I have a short (or other problem) somewhere that needs to be addressed.

Maybe the driver transistor for one of those pop bumpers has shorted. Take note if one of the pop bumpers instantly activates the moment you flick the power switch on, and if so switch off immediately before the fuse blows again. You can then work your way upstream.

1 week later
#1040 2 years ago

Impressive! She's a real beauty. Hope you're proud with the result

8 months later
#1218 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

but really Pinball Life if they really knocked off an existing product.

Are you sure Pinball Life didn't release them first? The PBL ones are a different product that includes rectification to work on AC G.I. plus a capacitor to smooth switching/reduce flicker.

Quoted from TractorDoc:

but I still like the metallic look of the sockets.

I'm a bit old skool and appreciate you staying with lamp sockets where you have the flexibility to use what ever lamps you like
Keep up the great work!

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