OP

Quoted from TractorDoc:

Todays time in the shop focused on the glamorous task of lamp socket replacement. After seeing how much wax, sanding remnants, and polishing residue had built up in the GI sockets I thought it best to replace them. A number of these sockets also had loose connections and would be nothing but trouble if left in place. I know it has been suggested to replace all the sockets, but after checking all the insert sockets they still feel, look, and light as new. Ok, maybe not new but definitely worth trying vs. replacing.
More or less this was the work area.
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After all the work was done I had a bowl full of crusty sockets.
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The soldering station and sucker earned their keep today. I also replaced that disc capacitor on the front standup switch target with a new .047uf 50V capacitor. In the future I am putting a desoldering gun on the new tool wish list. In fact there is one in my E-bay cart right now waiting for the next 15% off coupon to pop up.
Another accomplishment was replacing the coil sleeves and flipper plungers. Out with the old:
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A partial view of some of the new:
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A couple more things to do on the underside, but the big goal right now is being patient. I want to wait at least a month for the clear to cure before I apply a good coat of wax to the empty playfield. I just looked back and its only been a couple weeks. . . time flies by when you are having fun but takes forever when you are waiting for paint to dry.

OP

Quoted from TractorDoc:

Had just enough time to install boards and harnesses this weekend. I started just by plugging J3 into the Solenoid Driver and turning the game on. Once my test point voltages all checked out I hooked everything else up.
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Once powered up the game finally has some life to it. Definitely some bugs to work out before I start flipping though. So far some switches are not registering even though I was sure to set gaps when the playfield was out. With the Alltek lamp driver I am still having some LED flicker from the insert bulbs -- I wired it in as instructed to avoid the flicker. I had the game reset several times when flipping the right flipper. I hope to dig into this more thru the week; I will start with why my 12V may be dropping to allow a reset on the MPU. Probably something I am overlooking on the SD board or perhaps something in my wiring.
On the plus side all the solenoids are firing, drop targets are registering/resetting, flippers are flipping, and sounds are dinging. Displays are working and registering scores as I manually trigger items on the playfield.
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My original backglass has some obvious cracks/bubbling across the bottom area. I've ordered a new one from CPR -- Kevin has assured me that the new digital printing process should eliminate the washed out look past offerings have dealt with. We shall see!

OP

Quoted from TractorDoc:

Great to hear! I hope you like it as much in person as I have thus far.
Having about 50 games in (just one more. . . ) I can say it was worth the wait to play. Sure I love me some ramps, modes, flashers, and animations from time to time but more often than not I gravitate to these early SS games. The spinner rip on Paragon is right up there with Meteor as far as one of my favorites, especially when the ball zips across the playfield and into the waterfall. Loving the inline drops, forgot how much I liked them on Flash Gordon. The pop in the left outlane adds a fun element of chance -- I find myself holding my breath waiting to see where the ball will end up.
I think Paragon will fit nicely into the game room lineup. A few more details here and there before taking outdoor/daylight pictures of the finished product, then it is taking everything apart again to fit up some stairs and around some corners.
Not trying to get too far ahead of myself, but I am already thinking ahead to the next project. Rather than start a new thread I will probably continue this one with some revisions to the title and initial post -- making it my "official" game refurbishing thread. Hope everyone will stick around for more fun, here is a hint of what is to come. [quoted image]

OP

Quoted from TractorDoc:

HUGE Update! Notice anything different?
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That is right -- I applied the coin door decal. I usually reserve that as the last thing to cross off the list before sticking a fork in the game. . . even though they are never really "done."
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I've seen there are two styles of the diamond shape Bally decal -- the "circle" version which I've applied here or the "arrow" version with Susan B. Anthony on it. The Susan B. version is probably more appropriate especially because I have the center dollar coin option -- but I like the "circle" version better.
No luck getting outside for final pictures today. Too much rain, but there is always tomorrow!

OP

Quoted from TractorDoc:

Todays efforts focused on the bottom cabinet. Pictures were taken and items were bagged/tagged as they were removed. A summary of everything that came out is pictured below, all boxed up to store until later.
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All that is left is to remove the side rails (maybe tomorrow?) and this part of the cabinet should be ready to take to the wood shop to use as a pattern.
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One of the most interesting things (to me) was the presence of the orginal manufacturing tag. It will be preserved and hopefully carried over to the new cabinet.
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I have some ideas on how I want to paint the new cabinet -- it will be original but at the same time not. That is all I will say for now, let you imagination run wild!

OP

Quoted from TractorDoc:

I read thru Vid's guide on cabinet restoration (several times! ) and on the topic of removing the bottom panel he says something to the effect of "Router the edges then step on the bottom to pop it off." While I did do those things today I will give you a little more detail on how I did it.
First I set up the router. I measured how far I wanted the bit to be exposed so as not to cut deeply into the bottom panel.
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Comparing measurments to the router. In the end I fit the bit in loosely and pushed it down on the cabinet to its position then tightened.
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Here is where we get crazy. Even with surgeon's hands I was not sure I could router along the edge of the cabinet and keep a straight line. I thought that even using a wood chisel to chip out a strip of wood might look a little ragged.
I called MacGyver and we came up with a plan to create a straight edge along the side of the cabinet using a greenhouse plant table, several 2X4s, and a ratchet strap. There are probably better ways to do this. . . it is probably half unnecessary but at the same time half evil genius so I went with it.
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Now all I have to do is slide my router along the table edge for a straight cut.
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Measuring the distance between my straight edge and cabinet edge. I want to remove about a quarter inch.
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Measuring the distance between my router straight edge and bit. Pretty close. You'll have to trust me, it was a bad camera angle.
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My first test cut. I could stand to nibble out a bit more to expose the edge of the bottom panel. . .
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So I used a scraper to shim out my table just a bit.
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Once I realized this could work I removed the security panel to avoid creating sparks and ruining my bit.
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Repeat for the other side.
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As promised, some standing in the cabinet to push the bottom panel out. Many popping sounds were heard and several bumps were needed with the mallet in addition to foot power. Besides glue there were several nails holding the bottom panel in at the bottom cross braces. The grounding strap was removed after pics.
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Success!
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I will use the old panel as a template to create a new, thicker one. That will allow the cabinet bottom to be one level height and avoid catching the bottom edges in the future. Sanding will be a bit easier now with better access to the inside walls at the bottom. Guess I know what I will be doing later this week!

OP

Quoted from TractorDoc:

Took the plunge into my can of dark blue basecoat today. One last pic of the cabinets in primer gray.
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Three or so coats later. . .
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This is my first time using this basecoat/clearcoat system. My past projects have mostly been single stage.
I know I have a window of time that would allow me to add the next color without any special preparation, but I was not sure how long I need to wait before I can apply stencils. My schedule does not help either being so unpredictable, so on top of today's basecoat I applied a couple quick shots of intercoat clear. I will need to scruff the surfaces before applying the next color(s)/clearcoat, the intercoat clear will provide a buffer and hopefully prevent me from scruffing thru basecoat into primer.
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A sunlit view of the front. As much as I filled, primed, sanded, etc. several small imperfections still remain. I could probably keep filling/sanding for weeks!
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In the end I am happy with how things are looking so far. . . the next big step will involve stencils.

OP

Quoted from TractorDoc:

I tried cleaning the backside of inserts with Novus and improved some of the markings. With that addressed I started the process of adding lamp sockets.
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Even though it would be far eaiser to install the bare common wire I've decided to have a go with my 18ga blue insulated tinned wire instead. I used the original playfield/bare wire as a template and routed the wire in the same path around the sockets.
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Insulation stripped at each lamp socket and ready for soldering. One of the problems with having games in multiple locations is I lose track of my equipment. It was my intention to solder the sockets up but my iron was left in the game room at home. There is always next time. . .
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I made a good bit of progress on the blue bonus inserts as well, just somehow forgot to take a picture. Before leaving for the day realized I shorted myself several of one type of lamp socket. . . time to put together another order.

OP

Quoted from TractorDoc:

Balls were (and still are!) in their proper location.
Spent some time looking the game over today. I checked and rechecked the test points on the rectifier, solenoid driver, mpu, lamp driver, and squawk and talk. All checked fine. . . until I poked around too much on the squawk and talk and caused the game to reset. Now instead of the standard five flashes at startup I get only three. I may need to install a replacement chip at U11.
Anyway, I moved on to the coin door. On a hunch, I separated the coin door harness at the molex connector -- next thing I know the game appears like it is in attact mode. Close inspection of the coin door found the very edge of a wire pinched at the start game/credit button switch. Correcting that fixed a lot of problems (except the sound of course).
Now the displays work, I can add credits, and register points on the playfield.
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Issues that need addressing are mostly several switch adjustments. The other problem I've found is at the kicker/ball eject mechanism. The kicker arm is currently getting jammed on the ball trough -- hopefully something I can fix by moving the kicker unit.
We are getting closer. . . I'm really liking how things are starting to look!
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OP

Quoted from TractorDoc:

To this point I've had a reproduction backglass in place.
Now that I have the boards/settings more or less established I thought it a good time to bring back the original. After a gentle cleaning it once again sits in its proper home.
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The original definitely has more of a cooler, blue tone. Much more appropriate I think.
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I may or may not have tired to flip the ball around a little bit. . . still trying to keep an open mind but really think I'm going to enjoy this game!

OP

Quoted from TractorDoc:

Hmmm, with all the parts in place, what should I do now?

OP

Quoted from TractorDoc:

Quick GIF anyone?
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Fantastic Work Davi !!

OP

Quoted from TractorDoc:

The more I learn about these games the more I realize how little I know.
I learned that Taxi actually has two GI Relay boards -- one for the playfield and one for the upper cabinet. At least there should be a second one in the upper cabinet. . . . it appears the relay bandit has struck again on this game, only this time he/she snagged the entire board.
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I am not aware of any current aftermarket suppliers for this board now that Great Lakes Modular is no longer accepting orders.
Perhaps it is time to post another Want Ad in the Pinside Classifieds.

OP

Quoted from TractorDoc:

There will always be next time. Invitation is always open.
I had a chance to start sanding the playfield with 1000 grit.
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The playfield surface sanded down flat much easier than I thought it would, but this is the first playfield I've worked on without sunken inserts.
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It is supposed to rain over the weekend -- if it does that should give me the opportunity to continue sanding with 2000 then 3000 grit. More pics to come.