(Topic ID: 231017)

Finding my Place in the Frontier Food Chain -- Bally Style

By TractorDoc

5 years ago


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  • Latest reply 1 year ago by TractorDoc
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Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #13 Removing wire guides and pins Posted by TractorDoc (5 years ago)

Post #20 Refurbishing a coin door Posted by TractorDoc (5 years ago)

Post #53 Removing side rails Posted by TractorDoc (5 years ago)

Post #73 Wood rail removal Posted by TractorDoc (5 years ago)

Post #78 Mylar removal techniques Posted by TractorDoc (5 years ago)

Post #267 Start of Fathom Restoration Posted by TractorDoc (4 years ago)

Post #619 Start of Judge Dredd "Refurbishing" Posted by TractorDoc (4 years ago)

Post #714 Start of Taxi Mechanical Repairs Posted by TractorDoc (4 years ago)

Post #751 Start of Earthshaker Repair and Playfield Swap. Posted by TractorDoc (3 years ago)

Post #851 Start of Stargate Shop Job. Posted by TractorDoc (3 years ago)


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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider LynnInDenver.
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#434 4 years ago

My recommendation is to replace them with the same style of socket. Odds are good the same type is used throughout the machine, so it's more a logistical thing to do so, so that the machine uses only one "type" of bulb. Otherwise, any new socket should be pretty reliable compared to what's in there, whether it's a plastic wedge socket or a bayonette.

#437 4 years ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

True, but what if I replace all the sockets. . . display panel, coin door, playfield, etc. Then they would all be of the same "type."
I've seen where a couple of other restorations have done this ( pinballmiked 's Fathom for instance ) and mentions of the #44 socket being more reliable from the likes of freeplay40 -- this was years ago though. Also, I've only done a quick search, but I have yet to find those plastic #555 sockets at PBR or Marcos. They may be there, I did not search all that long.

Replacing all the sockets is viable, as long as you don't have things like light boards that take those "twist in" #555 sockets for a playfield array. Do realize that it may make the machine less "desirable" on the market because it has a different type of lamp socket than it shipped with from the factory.

Here's at least a starting point for finding wedge sockets: https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=wedge+lamp+socket

The only real reason we have wedge lamps in the house is because of what I fitted into our virtual pinball... both the used Suzo-Happ coin door and the Launch button use wedges, and I haven't decided if I'm going to make the attempt to change those for bayonettes. We're using LED bulbs anyway, which reduces the need to change bulbs in general, and the wedge made it easy to change the Launch button because I'm limited to 3V, I just adapted a straight LED into an empty wedge base and added my own resistor.

#439 4 years ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

Just a reminder that I am restoring this game for me, not for the market.
IF I can bring myself to sell this game someday and someone gives me a hassle because of the type of lamp sockets. . . well they can go pound sand. They probably would not have looked twice anyway after seeing my non-factory paint job.
I always appreciate the thoughts and thanks for the link on the sockets!

It is your game.

The only thing that would keep me from changing the sockets on a machine to another style is just the whole, "oh, man, how MANY sockets would I be dealing with here?" Our virtual build technically has three types of bulbs; three wedges in the coin door, that modified wedge in the Launch button, and the two EZStart led buttons next to the coin door. It'd give anyone fits in terms of logistics, but again, LED, I don't expect to have to deal with them except to change the insert color on the coin slots.

3 weeks later
#468 4 years ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

Mine may have to be reused -- they are no longer the pristine white as they were when new. Not sure if painting them is a good option as I believe the ball comes in contact there and chipping may be an issue

Have you considered vinyl dye? They sell it for working with car interior parts. It's supposed to bond better to plastic and actually "soak in", so to speak. I believe they sell it in spray cans.

1 month later
#504 4 years ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

Insulation stripped at each lamp socket and ready for soldering. One of the problems with having games in multiple locations is I lose track of my equipment. It was my intention to solder the sockets up but my iron was left in the game room at home. There is always next time. . .

I've got a hobby like that, scale modeling, where I can take equipment with me (my club does two monthly "build and bitch" meetings), so my solution to the problem is to have, for the relevant tools, a set on the home bench, and a set in a toolbox that goes with me. It might be worth identifying the equipment that tends to be "leave it at the other location when I need it here", and set up a second (or more depending on locations) set, or at least a "at the main bench" set and "in the car" set. It might get a little expensive depending on your exact soldering setup (since you'll want something that uses the same tips as the main iron), but it can pay for itself in terms of boosted productivity.

1 year later
#983 2 years ago

...why is one of the pop bumpers installed backwards?

4 months later
#1092 2 years ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

Metallic in the yellows and oranges was significantly more costly than the blues and greens. Those little cans cost what two of the big blue ones would have!

I'm betting that it's because of the formulation required to actually achieve proper coverage... yellow and orange are notorious in a lot of paints of requiring either many more coats, or a backing of white paint, to achieve good coverage.

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Your shop name here

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