(Topic ID: 231017)

Finding my Place in the Frontier Food Chain -- Bally Style

By TractorDoc

5 years ago


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  • 1,263 posts
  • 130 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by TractorDoc
  • Topic is favorited by 111 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #13 Removing wire guides and pins Posted by TractorDoc (5 years ago)

Post #20 Refurbishing a coin door Posted by TractorDoc (5 years ago)

Post #53 Removing side rails Posted by TractorDoc (5 years ago)

Post #73 Wood rail removal Posted by TractorDoc (5 years ago)

Post #78 Mylar removal techniques Posted by TractorDoc (5 years ago)

Post #267 Start of Fathom Restoration Posted by TractorDoc (4 years ago)

Post #619 Start of Judge Dredd "Refurbishing" Posted by TractorDoc (4 years ago)

Post #714 Start of Taxi Mechanical Repairs Posted by TractorDoc (4 years ago)

Post #751 Start of Earthshaker Repair and Playfield Swap. Posted by TractorDoc (3 years ago)

Post #851 Start of Stargate Shop Job. Posted by TractorDoc (3 years ago)


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#4 5 years ago

This machine is in incredible condition for a Paragon. Usually, all Paragon backglass will be heavily bubbled and really hard to recover.
The playfield is in fantastic shape and the cabinet can be fixed without having to repaint the entire machine.

You got yourself a great deal.

Yves

1 week later
#26 5 years ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

Even with all my "before" pictures I'm having a difficult time remembering where the wire on the left goes (pointed out by the screwdriver). It was in the pile of coin door parts. . . but I cannot even find it on another completely assembled coin door on another machine.

Look for the Future Spa by JSA, in the Restoration forum. I posted somewhere a view of the Bally manual showing how to re-assemble the coin door. It is always a delicate and complex phase of the restoration.

Yves

1 week later
#43 5 years ago

Now is the time to carefully insulate the credit button switch. The paper insulator will not make it in the long run and you will be pulling your hair trying to figure out what is going wrong with the machine.

I usually take some heat retractable tubing and slide it over the metal plate in direct contact with the Credit Button. Same thing on the stop plate preventing the contact to go inside.

Yves

#50 5 years ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

I am going back and forth between pulling the cabinet side rails to clean them up and leaving them. There are no plans for a cabinet repaint at this time, but I know a little time at the buffing wheel will have the rails looking nice. Yep, I'll probably end up pulling them.

Pulling the rail will most likely damage them to a certain extent, near the nails. You can always polish the area around the nails and the good part is that you can buy new rails as a last resort.

If you do not intend to repaint the cabinet, I would not touch the rails and use some tape on the wood to protect the cabinet during the polishing of the rails in place. Also, if you replace the rails or take them off, make sure to use little wood screws to re-assemble them instead of these twisted nails.

Yves

#54 5 years ago

You did a good job with the rails. Congrats. It is never easy to remove them.

Yves

1 month later
#116 5 years ago

I usually use an eye dropper to fill in the inserts. Applying a spray coat may not be enough.

1- Fill in using an eye dropper.
2- Sand carefully above the inserts.
3- When all the inserts are level with the rest of the playfield, go for a final coat of clear.
4- Wait a few weeks before re-assembling. You may discover some shrinkage around the inserts again. They never stop drinking the clearcoat....

Yves

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