Earthshaker
Williams, 1989
Fathom
Bally, 1981
Judge Dredd
Bally, 1993
Paragon
Bally, 1979
Seawitch
Stern Electronics, 1980
Taxi
Williams, 1988Quoted from TractorDoc:I know it is very minor compared to some of the repairs others have had to do.
Yeah, those are nothing that couldn’t be just filled and touched up with a little paint, BUT......I wouldn’t want to stop you from doing what you do best and going the extra mile. Plus I can’t wait to see the killer paint job you have planned 
The Lower Cabinet.
The front corners still look tight and secure. The legs have left their mark in the wood though.
Some small chunks of wood are missing here and there and some wood planking is present.
The joint where the upper cabinet meets the lower is starting to show some cracks/separation.
Particle Board! Why! The cabinet's back panel is starting to show some crumbling across the bottom. I hate particle board. 
If the corners did not looks so nice I would be all about replacing it with new plywood.
The bottom panel has several large scrapes that penetrate down into the fiberboard. My options are either to sand it smooth or I am tempted to router out the plywood edge on the sides and replace the entire panel with a new piece of plywood.
One of the bottom corners has been chewed out a bit -- this could be a good resin candidate.
I spent the day reading thru Vid's cabinet thread so I believe I have the basics figured out. . . now its time to put them into practice. 
I used JB-Weld Kwik Wood to great effect on a terribly messed up F-14 cabinet. I molds and sands easily.
The holiday and nice weather allowed me to start some sanding on the upper cabinet today.
Donned my respirator and attacked the flat surfaces with 80 grit and a pneumatic dual action sander. That was the easy part. The little electric sander and manual sanding by hand cleaned up all the corners and difficult to reach spots. One last look at the side art. . .
5J5A9992 (resized).JPG5J5A9995 (resized).JPG
I was careful not to get too aggressive around the S/N stamping.
The rough sanded finished product.
5J5A9998 (resized).JPG5J5A9997 (resized).JPG
I did not bust out the body filler just yet, will probably sand down the lower cabinet first. Saving that for another day, letting my fingers recover from being beaten up by the hand sanding!
Quoted from cletus:You move fast Doc
My typical day has about 90% of the time devoted to work, doing chores, or tasks that other people want done. A lot of that is my fault because I take on more than I should; in a crazy way it keeps me sane if that makes any sense. When I get that free hour or two I have to make the most of it. . . usually I have a plan in place to be more efficient.
What you did not see in today's pictures or description was me digging out the router, seeing what bits I have available, and thinking about how I can make a clean/straight cut across the bottom sides of the cabinet to get the lower panel out. That and I am going back and forth with replacing the back particle wood panel. I do not seem to have the proper 45 degree lock miter bit to make a new one.
Even if I acquire a new bit I am going to need some practice to make a useable panel. I am also not sure how cleanly I will be able to separate the current particle board piece from the sides.
Always thinking two or three steps ahead. . . keeps me motivated and gives the impression (sometimes) that I have control of the situation!
If you go the route of the lock bit check out Lee Valley's guide here... pretty helpful, I especially found the trouble shooting section helpful.
I read thru Vid's guide on cabinet restoration (several times! 
) and on the topic of removing the bottom panel he says something to the effect of "Router the edges then step on the bottom to pop it off." While I did do those things today I will give you a little more detail on how I did it.
First I set up the router. I measured how far I wanted the bit to be exposed so as not to cut deeply into the bottom panel.
Comparing measurments to the router. In the end I fit the bit in loosely and pushed it down on the cabinet to its position then tightened.
Here is where we get crazy. Even with surgeon's hands I was not sure I could router along the edge of the cabinet and keep a straight line. I thought that even using a wood chisel to chip out a strip of wood might look a little ragged.
I called MacGyver and we came up with a plan to create a straight edge along the side of the cabinet using a greenhouse plant table, several 2X4s, and a ratchet strap. There are probably better ways to do this. . . it is probably half unnecessary but at the same time half evil genius so I went with it.
Now all I have to do is slide my router along the table edge for a straight cut.
Measuring the distance between my straight edge and cabinet edge. I want to remove about a quarter inch.
Measuring the distance between my router straight edge and bit. Pretty close. You'll have to trust me, it was a bad camera angle. 
My first test cut. I could stand to nibble out a bit more to expose the edge of the bottom panel. . .
So I used a scraper to shim out my table just a bit.
Once I realized this could work I removed the security panel to avoid creating sparks and ruining my bit.
Repeat for the other side.
As promised, some standing in the cabinet to push the bottom panel out. Many popping sounds were heard and several bumps were needed with the mallet in addition to foot power. Besides glue there were several nails holding the bottom panel in at the bottom cross braces. The grounding strap was removed after pics.
Success!
I will use the old panel as a template to create a new, thicker one. That will allow the cabinet bottom to be one level height and avoid catching the bottom edges in the future. Sanding will be a bit easier now with better access to the inside walls at the bottom. Guess I know what I will be doing later this week!
Quoted from TractorDoc:I read thru Vid's guide on cabinet restoration (several times! ) and on the topic of removing the bottom panel he says something to the effect of "Router the edges then step on the bottom to pop it off." While I did do those things today I will give you a little more detail on how I did it.
First I set up the router. I measured how far I wanted the bit to be exposed so as not to cut deeply into the bottom panel.
[quoted image]
Comparing measurments to the router. In the end I fit the bit in loosely and pushed it down on the cabinet to its position then tightened.
[quoted image]
Here is where we get crazy. Even with surgeon's hands I was not sure I could router along the edge of the cabinet and keep a straight line. I thought that even using a wood chisel to chip out a strip of wood might look a little ragged.
I called MacGyver and we came up with a plan to create a straight edge along the side of the cabinet using a greenhouse plant table, several 2X4s, and a ratchet strap. There are probably better ways to do this. . . it is probably half unnecessary but at the same time half evil genius so I went with it.
[quoted image]
Now all I have to do is slide my router along the table edge for a straight cut.
[quoted image]
Measuring the distance between my straight edge and cabinet edge. I want to remove about a quarter inch.
[quoted image]
Measuring the distance between my router straight edge and bit. Pretty close. You'll have to trust me, it was a bad camera angle.
[quoted image]
My first test cut. I could stand to nibble out a bit more to expose the edge of the bottom panel. . .
[quoted image]
So I used a scraper to shim out my table just a bit.
[quoted image]
Once I realized this could work I removed the security panel to avoid creating sparks and ruining my bit.
[quoted image]
Repeat for the other side.
[quoted image]
As promised, some standing in the cabinet to push the bottom panel out. Many popping sounds were heard and several bumps were needed with the mallet in addition to foot power. Besides glue there were several nails holding the bottom panel in at the bottom cross braces. The grounding strap was removed after pics.
[quoted image]
Success!
[quoted image]
I will use the old panel as a template to create a new, thicker one. That will allow the cabinet bottom to be one level height and avoid catching the bottom edges in the future. Sanding will be a bit easier now with better access to the inside walls at the bottom. Guess I know what I will be doing later this week!
How much time per week do you spend on these? Your dedication is incredible!
Quoted from TractorDoc:I will use the old panel as a template to create a new, thicker one. That will allow the cabinet bottom to be one level height and avoid catching the bottom edges in the future. Sanding will be a bit easier now with better access to the inside walls at the bottom. Guess I know what I will be doing later this week!
Guessing the security panel is not going back on with the thicker floor panel ...
Quoted from Daditude:How much time per week do you spend on these? Your dedication is incredible!
Some weeks are better than others, depends on work and other demands. Normally Mondays/Thursdays are 12 hour work days for me so very little happens outside of the office. I had a lighter surgery day yesterday so I was able to work on the cabinet bottom, I was a bit late to supper today after some time in the shop.
Quoted from ReadyPO:Guessing the security panel is not going back on with the thicker floor panel ...
Honestly, I am still thinking about how I want to proceed with the bottom. There is a 5/8 inch space to fill at the bottom, in theory I could use a 1/2 inch thick piece of wood and still have an eighth inch ridge -- that would allow a new metal panel to be fitted without sticking out below the cabinet. I do not plan on routing this game when done and I doubt the metal plate would have been needed with a thicker bottom to begin with. . . then again I like the idea of putting one back in place to pay homage to how it originally looked. My plan is to cut a new bottom panel then figure it out from there.
Why was I late for supper?
So I could sand some cabinet of course.
One side at a time. Removing the bottom definitely made cleaning up the inside easier.
One of the main reasons we are making the effort -- preserving that Serial Number.
Finished with most of the flat surfaces. Still some detail work to do mostly around the bottom edge.
Thinking about the bottom. My current thought is to paint the interior as you see it in the base color blue (this includes the bottom cross bars and angle braces). I'd like to finish the bottom panel in a natural wood tone though -- perhaps in a golden finish/stain to resemble sand on the ocean bottom. I like the look of natural wood at the bottom of a cabinet but I do not really care for how the interior sides are originally sprayed half way down. I am still thinking about the steps I want to take to paint/stain/install/etc. but I'm sure I'll figure something out. Sometimes if I think about these things hard enough I have dreams about working on pinball stuff!
Quoted from TractorDoc:Thinking about the bottom. My current thought is to paint the interior as you see it in the base color blue (this includes the bottom cross bars and angle braces). I'd like to finish the bottom panel in a natural wood tone though -- perhaps in a golden finish/stain to resemble sand on the ocean bottom. I like the look of natural wood at the bottom of a cabinet but I do not really care for how the interior sides are originally sprayed half way down. I am still thinking about the steps I want to take to paint/stain/install/etc. but I'm sure I'll figure something out. Sometimes if I think about these things hard enough I have dreams about working on pinball stuff!
You have gone to the trouble of removing the bottom and will have a new clean one - I think most bottoms get painted because they are in terrible condition. I like the natural wood idea with a light stain/sealer and painted sides/braces. Should look awesome! I would consider replacing the metal panel too - yes its not needed for HUO/thicker base and really not visible, but if you can make it work without too much trouble, seems more authentic ...
Paid a visit to Home Depot today for some supplies.
I've decided to leave the back panel in place on the lower cabinet. It is in overall decent condition with no past evidence of moisture contamination. I did decide to give it a couple coats of wood hardener though for good measure.
I also picked out a decent piece of birch plywood for the bottom panel. Yes, I am that guy that will take all the sheets off the stack to get the nicest piece. In my experience it tends to be the second or third piece from the bottom. I measured three times and cut once using the trusty truck to help hold in my solo operation.
Second cut to achieve desired dimensions. Will it fit?
Like a Glove!
To duplicate the ventilation holes I clamped the original bottom on top of the new and used the router to trace the path of the openings. I drilled a hole thru the opening first vs. plunging the router bit thru to avoid cracking the veneer on the backside.
The switch hole was easy enough to make using a hole saw.
I thought we had a big hole saw somewhere for the speaker (it measured about 5 1/2 inches in diameter) but after looking for it for 20 minutes I decided to use the router/trace the original technique again.
Old panel and new side by side. At this point I am happy I decided to replace the bottom. There will be no ugly scratches to look at and it will have a clean contrast with the rest of the cabinet.
I used the cutout piece from the speaker opening to make the switch block then glued it in place.
From the stain options available I chose Golden Pecan. Testing several areas on wood scraps and the speaker mount. I elected to go with a speaker upgrade in case you didn't notice.
The new panel after its first coat of stain. Overall a good day's effort as far as I'm concerned!
If tomorrow allows we will start covering holes, gaps, and cracks in the cabinets. Its likely to be very fulfilling.
Quoted from cletus:I’ve never heard of wood hardener. Can it turn pine into oak?
Viagra replacement!
Quoted from freddy:Viagra replacement!
I was waiting to see how long it would take Pinside to go that direction. . .
I do not know the exact chemistry but the Wood Hardener that I used on the pinball cabinet in my mind is a glue that is absorbed into the wood fibers to strengthen/bind them . The can says you can use it on rotting or deteriorating wood. The particle board sure drank it up -- I may give the fiber panels in the upper and lower cabinets another coat today.
I'm not familiar with the Varathane Wood Hardener you showed in the picture, but if it is anything like Minwax Wood Hardener (which it probably is), it is about 75% Acetone/Methanol with a suspended (melted) plastic - basically, the acetone/methanol penetrates the fibers, then evaporates, leaving the plastic behind encapsulating the rotted/soft fibers. Won't necessarily add strength, but leaves a hard surface to sand/paint which is just fine where you used it I think.
It was a busy day at the farm getting equipment ready for the first cutting of hay. The ground is too wet and weather still has rain in the forecast so nothing has been cut yet, but we want to be ready when our window comes.
An afternoon shower did provide a window of opportunity to smooth out some dents.
Instead of buying something new I brought out the product I use on a lot of my car/tractor projects: USC All-Metal Filler.
It can be used on wood and has aluminum particles incorporated into it. On some car projects I've used lead with heat as a body filler, that obviously will not work here but the All-Metal is very similar in how it sets up. It goes on very smooth, sets up very hard, and sands down cleanly. I've been pleased with it's results on metal and it did not disappoint me on the wood cabinet either. You have to be quick once you mix in the activator -- I get about five minutes before it starts getting sticky.
Rather than show every fill spot I'll just post a before and after of one of the back corners.
5J5A9989 (resized).JPG5J5A0046 (resized).JPG
There are several more areas to glue, sand, etc. but I am getting close to putting that first coat of epoxy primer down. The plan is to start with the inside of the bottom cabinet. . . more details on that as time and weather cooperate.
Its been rather busy at the office so not much progress in the shop. Stopped in today to work on the glamourous tasks of sanding, gluing, etc. One area that I needed to address was where the upper cabinet mount met the lower side/back panels. When the side rails are installed I believe one of the nails helps hold this joint together, I tried to strengthen the bond with glue.
Leg bolt mounting plates were removed. Thinking of installing upgraded versions as you see at left.
In addition to sanding the inside of the cabinet I took a file to all the angle braces to knock off any old glue or uneven edges. There will be a bit of contrast between the painted braces and wood bottom once installed so taking care of this now should result in a better look later. I used a red spot filler putty to smooth over ground braid staple holes.
Three coats of polyurethane on the bottom side of the new panel. I went with semi-gloss because I had a gallon of it in my basement from a prior project on the homestead. Also started work on making the new metal security panel.
On and off rain showers have been a good thing lately -- they force me to focus on the sanding/prep details rather than rushing into spraying primer.
Quoted from FatPanda:This will be a gorgeous machine when you're all done with it. Looking good so far!
Thanks!
I have a feeling my color choices for the cabinet will look spectacular or it will turn out hideous. I'm hoping for the former.
Today I finally had enough of a window (time and weather wise) to spray some primer. I know I am making things more complicated than I need to, but I am painting the cabinet inside and outside at separate times in order to keep my new wood bottom looking like wood. Hopefully you will see why in later posts.
I started today with Epoxy Primer (two cans on the right -- primer and hardner). Originally I thought I could just get away with the epoxy primer only before topcoat on the inside but after today's application I can see a few areas that would benefit from a high build primer (two cans on the left).
The epoxy has to dry over night and needs sanded before the high build primer can go on. . . so here we are with a short but sweet update.
Quoted from kcZ:I like that you're keeping the bottom natural colored. I painted the bottom of my JP but ended up sanding it off.
There is just something nice about a natural bottom.
The wood tone of the bottom and tilt panel adds a bit of warmth and contrast to an otherwise monotone interior.
Just when I think I will have the opportunity to spray my next coat of primer something else always interferes. Today it was the weather -- more rain. I made good use of the time though, I dug out the cabinet legs and one by one tossed them into the blasting cabinet.
I forgot to take a before picture, so here is a halfway done picture. Clean legs at top, grungy legs at bottom.
Bare legs ready for a coat of epoxy primer. For color I have a couple shades of silver in the paint cabinet leftover from some tractor projects. I want to use something a little brighter than the original dark gray but still subtle enough so as not to distract from the cabinet paint and stainless trim.
I am hoping for some sunny weather in the future so I can spray primer. . . and cut the grass. . . and get the first cutting hay done. . . and cook out on the grill. . .
This summer has sucked so far for all those things on the list. I hate Ohio. 
Cold and crappy 9 months of the year.
Quoted from mrm_4:This summer has sucked so far for all those things on the list. I hate Ohio.
Cold and crappy 9 months of the year.
I do not enjoy temps above 75-80 degrees so I've been ok with it. . . at least we will always have a steady supply of fresh water vs. living in the desert!
This year suggests to me what it must be like to live in Seattle or London.
Sprayed the high build/filler primer today. Probably an unnecessary step for the interior but I wanted to make sure the area visible above the sides of the playfield was flat and smooth. This is not the same picture from last time. . . honest!
I'll give these areas a bit of sanding time then move onto spraying some color -- hopefully sooner than later.
Todays update is a bit more colorful.
I finally had a chance to spray several coats of base blue followed by three coats of clear to the cabinet interior.
A picture of the basecoats -- all three colors just in case the finished product turns out decent enough to copy.
Clearcoat:
Obviously not the same picture as last time!
After cleaning up and getting everything back in the shop I could not resist leaning the bottom panel in place -- I think it looks great and I'm definitely glad I've made the effort to retain the natural wood finish.
My next step will be to officially install the bottom panel and some wood strips along the bottom inside edges (where we used the router earlier) to give the underside the finished look I want. Stay Tuned!!
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Is that a metallic blue or just the lighting?
Your eyes do not deceive you, it is a metallic. I wanted a bit more of a wow factor when it came to the cabinet paint. . . I will probably get it one way or another with a "Wow, that looks great!" or a "Wow, that looks terrible!"
5J5A0232 (resized).JPGQuoted from TractorDoc:Wow, that looks great
Gets my vote!
Have to admit I was a bit of a leg man today.
Pinball cabinet leg man, that is.
Awhile back I mentioned that I wanted to upgrade the interior leg bolt mounting brackets. A quick mock up reveals how the new brackets will potentially be more sturdy, but there are obvious gaps between the bracket and cabinet walls.
Rather than simply use washers to fill the gap I dug out some 3/4" by 1/8" bar stock and made spacers to fill the void.
Spacers installed. After snugging up the leg bolts and making sure the cabinet stood true I drilled out pilot holes using the brackets as a guide.
For a few short moments the cabinet has legs.
I should be able to install the bottom panel next. . . I was very tempted to do so earlier but fitting the leg brackets was much easier with the bottom off. I suppose next time I might be a "bottom man."
It was a great day to spray some epoxy.
The upper cabinet, legs, interior brackets, and transformer plate all received a spray.
I am a bit frustrated with my efficiency. . . normally I would have the bottom cabinet out there getting its epoxy coat as well but the bottom needs installed first.
I tackled that today. Prepped the bottom by sanding down the perimeter and leveling out any remaining high spots.
I applied some glue to strategic areas and then used the brad nail gun to fix the panel in place.
The last picture shows that I am attempting to glue wood strips along the inside cabinet edge to create a more finished appearance. The strip sits above the bottom cabinet edge, but I figure taking the belt sander across the top will be an easy way to level everything out. I can only install one strip at a time due to my limited supply of clamps.
Trying to add a touch of authenticity I found the original nails that fixed the security panel in place and reused them.
The plan is to continue gluing the wood strips on the bottom cabinet and sand/prep the upper cabinet for high build primer. The high build will help smooth a few things out, but the epoxy has exposed a couple areas that could benefit from more filler. Exciting stuff!
Working on the last round of gluing the wood strips around the inside bottom cabinet edge.
The front half had cured long enough to allow the belt sander to work and flatten the wood strips even with the cabinet.
A better view of the flush edge. Once finished I will mask off the bottom panel, fill any remaining gaps between the strip/cabinet, and finally move on to an epoxy coat.
I did some sanding/filling on the upper cabinet as well then applied one more epoxy coat targeting the areas where I had sanded down to bare wood. One more round with the scruff pad and it should be ready for high build primer. I probably could have accomplished a bit more, but I decided to spend some time on one of my alternate summer hobbies. The FJ40 was due for a bath and it was a great day for a drive.
Quoted from TractorDoc:The FJ40 was due for a bath and it was a great day for a drive.
[quoted image]
Wish I would have picked one of those FJ40's up when they were cheap, Those old Toyota's are really overbuilt.
Miss my '83 Toyota SR5 4x4 pickup - really looked sharp in the metallic grey & the SR5 stripe package, all bone stock.
Back at it today.
After giving the second coat of epoxy a quick sand I used a lighter duty filler to fill in the "new" defects that kept popping up.
It sands easy and feathers in nicely.
Two coats of fill primer with a round of sanding in between.
Tried catching a view of the smoothed out top and edges.
One more scruff down and the upper cabinet should be ready for base coat color. Is it perfect? No. Look close and you will find a small defect here and there. . . just do not expect me to point them out to you!
More Progress.
Sanded the bottom edges flush, taped off the finished panel, and applied first round of filler to bottom edges.
A closer up view of the lower back edge with the biggest gaps filled.
Masked off the coin door and playfield openings.
Applied the first coat of epoxy primer. I started with the cabinet on its back to hit the reconditioned bottom edges.
Then rotated down onto a milk crate to cover the front, back and sides with several good coats.
The cabinet looks ok in this picture, but close inspection reveals a lot of wavy areas that need attention. Next job will be using the All-Metal Filler to smooth out the big areas likely to be followed with another coat of epoxy. Hope to get some of that done this weekend.
Quoted from Daditude:You do such beautiful work.
What kind of time expectations do you set for yourself (on average) for one of these projects?
Thanks for that!
I usually have three levels of expectations/goals that I try to achieve.
1. There is the "Set in Stone" goal that has to be met. On Fathom that goal is to have the cabinet painted before cold weather sets in and I cannot paint outside.
2. There is my daily goal of things that I "could" get done. Most of the time my expectations are a bit optimistic and this is more than a fantasy than a goal; but every once in awhile I succeed in accomplishing it. Today's example would be to finish off the heavy body work and get my second coat of epoxy applied.
3. Finally, I look at what I actually accomplish. Sometimes I get a lot done, sometimes just a part of my daily ideal goal, and sometimes I do not even step foot in the shop. Life gets busy and these sorts of days (or consecutive days) happen. The key is to be content with what I accomplish -- even if it is nothing. There will always be problems/hiccups to encounter along the way and I do not need to add more disappointment because of my inefficiency.
I can tell you on average it took me a year to disassemble, clean, repair, paint, reassemble, etc. a tractor or a car/truck. . . I do hope to have Fathom done quicker than that though!
Quoted from TractorDoc:Today's example would be to finish off the heavy body work and get my second coat of epoxy applied.
How did it turn out today?
I was able to get more of the rough body work done. This picture was meant to show the dark clouds looming in the background so I was not sure if I would get the epoxy on. . .
But I did!
The cabinet is definitely starting to look better just after sanding/applying the second epoxy coat. Hopefully several coats of fill primer will make it as smooth as the bottom of my old work boots (worn very flat ). I had made an effort to fill/eliminate the horizontal seam between the back panel and upper cabinet mounting area. It is looking good right now, hopefully my glue repair from earlier in the project holds up and nothing cracks!
5J5A9992A (resized).JPG5J5A9991 (resized).JPG
Look close on the back panel and you can see the holes for the metal bumper caps. Thought it best to leave them for proper replacement later.
Quoted from TractorDoc:How did it turn out today?
I was able to get more of the rough body work done. This picture was meant to show the dark clouds looming in the background so I was not sure if I would get the epoxy on. . .
[quoted image]
But I did!
The cabinet is definitely starting to look better just after sanding/applying the second epoxy coat. Hopefully several coats of fill primer will make it as smooth as the bottom of my old work boots (worn very flat ). I had made an effort to fill/eliminate the horizontal seam between the back panel and upper cabinet mounting area. It is looking good right now, hopefully my glue repair from earlier in the project holds up and nothing cracks!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Look close on the back panel and you can see the holes for the metal bumper caps. Thought it best to leave them for proper replacement later.
Good idea. I’ve cracked a bondo job on the back of the cab putting those in after final paint.
Quoted from jj44114:putting those in
putting what in?
Quoted from timab2000:The 4 small round chrome pad or feet
how does adding feet break a nice bondo job.
Quoted from mof:how does adding feet break a nice bondo job.
We're talking about these little feet or pads they get pounded back into the back of the cabinet
1562412687530219300509 (resized).jpg
Quoted from timab2000:We're talking about these little feet or pads they get pounded back into the back of the cabinet
Those are the ones! timab2000 -- You need to wash your feet!
Blasted my set today, they will probably get a coat of silver to match the legs.
I had just enough of a window today to get a coat of fill primer on between downpours. Heading out to see a movie tonite with the Mrs., will see if I can get some sanding done tomorrow. If I look close enough there are still a couple areas of cabinet cellulite going on. . . 
5J5A9996 (resized).JPGQuoted from TractorDoc:Those are the ones! timab2000 -- You need to wash your feet!
That's funny! I thought to myself after I posted that..."I could have grabbed a polished set to show off". Sorry about posting such nasty, dirty stuff. Those came off the Lost World I am re-doing.
Your work is looking really nice, by the way...following
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Elk Grove Village, IL
Hamilton, ON
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