Back on topic this weekend.

My replacement Hardtop arrived last week. One of the complications I would have to deal with is/was how to now compensate for the rollover insert.

My options were either to: 1. remove it from the playfield and proceed as before. 2. Find a way to cut the hardtop to fit the insert. The rollover was already at the correct height and I used a rather strong two part epoxy to fix it in place, so I was hesitant to backtrack further with its removal. Perhaps removal would have been easy, but I chose to move ahead with option 2.

To line the hole up I started by cutting an insert sized circle out of blue painter's tape. A spare rollover insert was used as the template.

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I pulled the tape from the insert and placed it sticky side up over the insert on the playfield. Two small tape tabs helped hold it in place.

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I lined the hardtop up on the playfield and when I was happy with its placement I pressed firmly over the insert/tape.

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The tape stuck to the hardtop and I was able to use it as a guide for cutting.

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Before actually cutting I repeated the process five or six times to make sure the tape stuck to the same spot each time. I tried cutting the opening with scissors but ultimately had to use the box cutter/razor to accomplish the task. It turned out a bit rougher than my original opening, but it worked as planned.

I could have probably lined the old hardtop over the new one for the same result, but I was not sure if there would be any variability between the two.

With the insert hole cut I was able to proceed to a familiar scene -- clamping the hardtop down after alignment so it can be installed.

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With some help I was able to successfully install my second hardtop. . . onto the same playfield. Apologies for the lack of picture focus, I was using my backup camera as my main one is out for a repair.

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I spend the rest of the afternoon avoiding a major laceration while I cut the mal-aligned playfield/hardtop openings for GI, rollovers, drop targets, standups, etc.

I was just barely able to get the inserts to line up correctly. If the hardtop was copied from an original playfield I'm amazed how much variability there must be between games. So much so that they would have to play different. . . even being the same game!

Double Post!

If feels like I'm moving sideways, but I hope to have an update or two with some actual progress soon.

Yesterday I dug out this old apron from my parts stash. I think it was removed from a Xenon parts playfield.

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It had enough rust and scratches that justified me tossing it into the blast cabinet.

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Pinball parts clean up much quicker than rusty old car parts!

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Several coats of paint later and I have a blank canvas on which to work.

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I do plan to duplicate the original apron look with vinyl cut decals. My original Frontier apron is faded and does show some wear and tear. . . but it was not so rough that I wanted to blast the paint off of it. I thought I'd at least try to have a new looking apron option to match the rest of the new looking playfield/cabinet/etc. The decal maker is currently using the original apron as a template; when I have it back I'll compare the two of them side by side and everyone can tell me which one they like better.

You provide the apron and I will clean/paint it.

This is just a rattle can finish. . . probably the same metallic blue that is on your cabinet!

Installed all new lamp sockets.

I know technology is evolving with individual leds, but I still like the metallic look of the sockets.

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Just like with Seawitch I added an individual solder lug to each lamp socket at its attachment point.

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Then I connected all the lamp sockets with the common wire. Call me lazy, but I went with bare wire this time vs. stripping out individual sections of insulated wire.

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The common wire was passed thru the lugs to make soldering them easier.

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An overview with lamp sockets in place and wired up. No soldering yet but that will be next.

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I'm a bit of an odd guy. I am open to adapting modern elements into a vintage game; for instance I use a lot Comet LED bulbs, Titan silicone rings, and Zitt 's translucent pop bodies/targets. At the same time I like using original style components, especially when I think they are more rugged or that they just look better on the game. To me the metal sockets just look right under the playfield, so its nothing more than personal preference.

Grazing the edges of the sharp metal sockets helps keep the callouses on my hands in good order too.

I would not put too much value on my actions though. I was a guy that preferred to rent a movie on DVD vs. stream it online and the world left me behind on that one.

A set of Zitt 's pop bumper bodies and skirts in blue test fitted to the playfield.

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I have to say test fitted (vs. installed) because I forgot to drop the metal pop rings in before securing the bodies in place.

Corrected!

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Sharp eyes will also notice I'm test fitting the drop target mechs with the translucent targets and my custom decals.

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RAWRR!

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As far as I'm aware there is no reproduction playfield offered by CPR or any other reputable playfield maker for Frontier. Hardtop was my best option.

If a repro does become available I might just be crazy enough to do the swap!

Soldered in some GI wiring as well as the common wire to all the lamp sockets.

Stuck a few mechs on the playfield too.

I might just be ready to drop the playfield harness on tomorrow.

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Wiring harness dropped in.

Rather than refer back to pictures I took I enjoy the process of figuring out where everything goes on my own. Harness clamps are secured in place and all the coils have crisp new wrappers.

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I print my coil wrappers from Inkochnito 's website: http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/coil_wrappers.htm
There is a trick to getting them in the original "Bally" script -- feel free to PM and I can give details.

I ended up ordering some universal red translucent lane guides. Not original, I know, but I'm hoping they will blend in with my overall color "adjustments."

Good to Know!

I reckon once the pop switch spoons have holes worn into them they ought to be replaced.

To compliment the coil wrappers I replaced the spoons with a new orange set from (you guessed it) Zitt / www.pinball-mods.com .

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When replacing the spoons I also replaced the diodes and capacitors. I'll do the same for all the remaining switches (diodes for sure, capacitors where needed).

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Finished soldering in the wiring harness and securing all playfield mechanisms to the underside of the playfield.

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I'm sure there will need to be some adjustments here and there but overall I'm happy with how things fit into place.

Flipping the playfield over means I get to work on some of the fun stuff next.

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Test fitting some pieces to see how the color combination is going to work with the set of plastic protectors I had made.

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I'll probably add a GI lamp under the rectangle standup target to highlight the red color better.

There is still a nice effect when I turn off the lights, but I think I can do better.

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Playfield Population in Progress!

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More details coming, but I am pleased with how things are coming together.

Oh yeah, I did indeed sign the playfield at the bottom right. I just airbrushed my signature out to protect the (somewhat) innocent.

The blue pop bodies contrast nicely with all the red in the posts/lane guides.

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Because I cannot leave well enough alone I changed up the graphic on my spinner.

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No, I don't really have anything against snakes. I'll jump when I see one if I'm not expecting it, but then I'll leave it alone. Now I have to figure out how to get the spinner to make a rattle snake sound when its hit.

More fun with lighting. I wanted to make sure I had the spinner lit up. I'm also liking how the bears are casting a shadow.

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Repinning connectors is much easier (on my back) when they are out of the machine.

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Can you tell which ones have already been replaced?

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Once the connectors are pinned I'll be ready to plug them in and give the playfield a test run while it is still on the bench. I need to source up a couple more hardware pieces to be able to fit the plastic protectors I had made. . . then it will be time to flip a few games!

My feet/shoes are nothing to worry about. They feel just fine.

As far as the connectors go I just break up the monotony by mixing in some fun stuff. Pin a connector, play a couple games of Fathom. Pin a connector, install some Titan Rubbers. Pin a connector, install some bulbs. Pin a connector. . . you get the idea.

Working thru some small details.

Connectors are all re-pinned.

One of the plastics that did not come in the repro plastic set is the one that acts as a ball guide up by the kickout. Rather than use the old, yellowed one I made a new one out of some of the leftover blue material I used to make my Seawitch protectors. From test fitting I can say it blends well with the playfield where it is positioned.

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In order to utilize the set of plastic protectors I had made I needed to install stud posts with a taller top thread. This allows fitment of the protector, plastic, and 6-32 acorn nut.

I ordered a handful of #6 posts from Marcos, but when test fitting everything I found out the upper threads were "mixed," meaning that the acorn nuts would fit on some of them, but not all of them.

I ended up having to use a thread chaser to shave off some metal and allow the acorn nuts to fit.

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In this picture I have an unaltered post at the left, a tapped (halfway) post in the middle, and a "normal" post at the right.

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I could not get any other size metric or standard size thread chaser to simply spin on the threads, so I really have no idea what size they were. It almost looks like there is too much material between the threads that needed to be removed.

Will all the extra effort be worth it? Maybe. So far I am really liking how the protectors look on the playfield.

A sneak peek -- I had a set of protectors made in orange and yellow. I went with orange to match the coil wrappers.

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I've always called them bells too, but a quick search labels them as "extruded metal posts."

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-8926

No matter, in the couple places I looked they are discontinued. I had a couple extra from some parts games that I was able to use for myself, I would think that if you placed a wanted ad here on Pinside for some you'd be able to source them. Someone out there probably has a box full of them -- yours somehow had the tops cut or broken off sometime in the past.

Good luck in your search!

In the words of the Immortal Kool-Aid Man (or was it Randy Savage? ). . . Oh Yeah!

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There were (and may still be) a few bugs to work out. I found a couple bulbs that needed seated and a wire to two that needed a touch more solder.

When I first powered the game up I found I had no power to the playfield coils. Installing a fuse in the clip under the playfield fixed that.

Initially nothing would happen when I pushed the credit button. I found a loose wire on the tilt panel (for the tilt ball) and once I resoldered that I could start a game.

During the coil test I found one of the pop bumpers was much weaker than the others. Once I looked under the playfield I quickly found the problem.

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Lastly (for now) one of my slingshots was going crazy when actuated. It would even fire rapidly with a flipper flick. It took me a little longer to find the problem, but eventually I located the solder splash that was bridging the metal bits. I've also since trimmed the leg of that diode.

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A couple playfield pictures to follow.

By not means are these my "photoshoot" pictures. I still need to peel the film off the plastics, install acorn nuts, blow dust off the playfield, etc.

But it should give a taste of what things will look like.

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Thanks John!
The look would not be complete without your pop bumper bits and drop targets.

Texas is indeed a long shot. With my current work schedule I'm just hoping to get an afternoon in at PinBrew this year. . . and that is just an hour or so from home.

I'm still waiting for the decals to finish the apron, so technically I cannot call Frontier "done," but I'm far enough along that I've been able to flip a few games and get a feel for how the hardtop plays.

It plays very similar to some of my clear coated playfields. . . only it is much quieter. I'm sure once the glass is on I'll hardly notice that. The ball definitely rolls smooth and fast.

Before I beat the game up too much I thought I'd better take some pictures. I'll take more in the daylight but here are a few from this evening.

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Took a couple with the macro lens too.

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I will say that hardtops are a great surface for catching reflections!