(Topic ID: 231017)

Diving into another Classic Bally - I cannot FATHOM what might go wrong!


By TractorDoc

1 year ago



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#501 37 days ago

I tried cleaning the backside of inserts with Novus and improved some of the markings. With that addressed I started the process of adding lamp sockets.

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Even though it would be far eaiser to install the bare common wire I've decided to have a go with my 18ga blue insulated tinned wire instead. I used the original playfield/bare wire as a template and routed the wire in the same path around the sockets.

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Insulation stripped at each lamp socket and ready for soldering. One of the problems with having games in multiple locations is I lose track of my equipment. It was my intention to solder the sockets up but my iron was left in the game room at home. There is always next time. . .

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I made a good bit of progress on the blue bonus inserts as well, just somehow forgot to take a picture. Before leaving for the day realized I shorted myself several of one type of lamp socket. . . time to put together another order.

#502 35 days ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

I tried cleaning the backside of inserts with Novus and improved some of the markings. With that addressed I started the process of adding lamp sockets.
[quoted image]
Even though it would be far eaiser to install the bare common wire I've decided to have a go with my 18ga blue insulated tinned wire instead. I used the original playfield/bare wire as a template and routed the wire in the same path around the sockets.
[quoted image]
Insulation stripped at each lamp socket and ready for soldering. One of the problems with having games in multiple locations is I lose track of my equipment. It was my intention to solder the sockets up but my iron was left in the game room at home. There is always next time. . .
[quoted image]
I made a good bit of progress on the blue bonus inserts as well, just somehow forgot to take a picture. Before leaving for the day realized I shorted myself several of one type of lamp socket. . . time to put together another order.

Looking even more incredible!!

#503 35 days ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

Before I install lamp sockets I want to try and address some marks on the underside of the inserts. I do not know if it is glue, manufacturing marks, or something else. . . but if you look at the blue and green inserts you can see some squiggle marks.
[quoted image]
My first plan is to apply some Novus on the end of a cotton swab, chuck it up in the drill, and spin the polish on the insert underside. Hopefully some improvement will be made. . . the squiggles are not so obvious when you are not looking for them. . . but I know they are there.

Try applying some naphtha on the underside. If this makes the marks disappear you can partially fill them from the underside with 2PAC.

#504 35 days ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

Insulation stripped at each lamp socket and ready for soldering. One of the problems with having games in multiple locations is I lose track of my equipment. It was my intention to solder the sockets up but my iron was left in the game room at home. There is always next time. . .

I've got a hobby like that, scale modeling, where I can take equipment with me (my club does two monthly "build and bitch" meetings), so my solution to the problem is to have, for the relevant tools, a set on the home bench, and a set in a toolbox that goes with me. It might be worth identifying the equipment that tends to be "leave it at the other location when I need it here", and set up a second (or more depending on locations) set, or at least a "at the main bench" set and "in the car" set. It might get a little expensive depending on your exact soldering setup (since you'll want something that uses the same tips as the main iron), but it can pay for itself in terms of boosted productivity.

#505 35 days ago
Quoted from LynnInDenver:

so my solution to the problem is to have, for the relevant tools, a set on the home bench, and a set in a toolbox that goes with me.

I'm never one to shy away from acquiring new tools. . . but I really don't need a second soldering iron for the two games I have at home. I just need to remember things better!

A couple weekend update pictures with more lamp sockets/wire added.

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I probably could accomplished more. . . but I was easily distracted by putting some play time in on Judge Dredd.

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#506 35 days ago

How’s that cold brew? Sounds interesting. Does it have a hint of coffee flavor?

#507 35 days ago
Quoted from JayDee:

How’s that cold brew?

Not too bad. I'm not usually one to have a taste for microbrew/fancy beers (Corona Premier is typically in the fridge), but Mrs. TractorDoc has been making Cold Brew Milkshakes lately. Saw these in the store today and couldn't resist. . . I don't think I'll have any problems finishing the six pack!

Edit -- forgot to add, they do have a mild coffee flavor.

#508 35 days ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

Not too bad. I'm not usually one to have a taste for microbrew/fancy beers (Corona Premier is typically in the fridge), but Mrs. TractorDoc has been making Cold Brew Milkshakes lately. Saw these in the store today and couldn't resist. . . I don't think I'll have any problems finishing the six pack!
Edit -- forgot to add, they do have a mild coffee flavor.

Were you drinking straight from the can? I know with those nitros they say dump straight into a glass to get that creamy head that nitros are known for. Ok, I’m done with the hijack, back to your awesome restore

#509 35 days ago
Quoted from JayDee:

Were you drinking straight from the can?

Indeed I did. Guess I don't know proper beer drinking etiquette!

I've always been one to sip from the can, bottle, etc. because I don't want to wash the glass. Reminds me of my bachelor days. . . my kitchen only had one cup, plate, fork, knife, and spoon. I'd either cook on the grill or make a frozen pizza in the oven -- and the pizza would end up back on the box it came in for a dish. Ah, Memories. . .

Now, back to the business of restoration.

#510 29 days ago

All lamp sockets in place and soldered to their common wires.

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A sharp eye will notice that the rollover wires are also installed.
I'm curious to know what the purpose of the bottom (right on the first pic, left on the second pic) lamp socket is. It is not seen as far as I can tell from the upper playfield.

My next task will be installing the playfield rails. Probably not the most logical next step. . . but I have my reasons.

#511 29 days ago

Is that weird bulb under playfield supposed to be the credit bulb that goes in the cutout?

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#512 29 days ago

That bulb is related to the solenoid expander board. Don’t put an led bulb in there. Incandescent only.

#513 29 days ago
Quoted from jj44114:

That bulb is related to the solenoid expander board. Don’t put an led bulb in there. Incandescent only.

What is it’s purpose?

#514 29 days ago

The solenoid expander is controlled by an scr on the lamp driver. It needs a load to work properly which is provided by that bulb.

#515 29 days ago
Quoted from jj44114:

The solenoid expander is controlled by an scr on the lamp driver. It needs a load to work properly which is provided by that bulb.

Makes sense, thanks for the explanation

#516 25 days ago

I come to this thread for inspiration. This is a hobbyist doing this level of work. I would have upped my game if I had known your work is of this level. so inspired.
AS I quickly become a geezer I think about stuff like: I sure hope your children appreciate your dedication to detail if they inherit one of your games. I know thats a bit grim, but to an eye that dosent know better, that may just be a pinball machine. Maybe if you do not last longer than me, you should make sure to leave a game to the kruzman pinball museum, located of 37th st in beautiful galesburg MI. Open to the public twice a year, (we do it for the kids).
HA. ok I will cut the crap. keep us posted as it comes along

#517 25 days ago

The Kruzman Pinball Museum, Eh? That sounds like a place worth visiting.

Worked on installing the playfield rails today. Before securing anything to the upper playfield surface I made sure to apply a good coat of Blitz Carnauba Wax to the playing surface. It will never be easier to get to all those hard to reach areas than right now!

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Many months back I ordered a set of new wood rails from taylorva / Reese Rails. They have been patiently waiting in their tube. . . in hindsight I probably should have opened to tube on receipt and removed the shipping paper from the rails as it decided to stick to the finish. Live and learn.

So it goes when trying to install new aftermarket parts to a new aftermarket playfield -- mounting holes do not always line up. The CPR Playfield has holes pre drilled for the rails so the easiest solution is/was to clamp the rails in place and drill a pilot hole from below. The background is a bit busy, but hopefully you can see the rail clamped to the playfield.

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Fathom is a game that incorporates ball guides to several of its side rails. New stainless ball guides were ordered from Mantis Amusements (also long ago -- website: https://mantispinball.com/ ). I removed the more complicated looking rail from the original playfield and compared original (top) to new/aftermarket (bottom).

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Pieces looked to line up properly, so I plucked the mounting nails from the original rail, polished them, and secured the new guides to the new rail. Taylor uses hardwood for the new rails (I'm guessing oak) so the mounting nails did not go in easy. I actually drilled pilot holes in the rail which helped ease installation.

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Those metal ball guides are secured to the playfield in addition to being nailed to the rails. So as not to damage Ron's clearcoat I chose to pre-drill the holes before securing the guides -- a process that will be repeated for every other hole that gets made into the new playfield surface. I first chose a bit that was the same diameter (or slightly larger) than the screw shank.

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I ran the drill bit in reverse to cut thru the clearcoat layer.

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A smaller bit was then used to make a pilot hole for the screw. The hole we are working in is farthest left in the white. The Mer-Lady appears to approve.

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More patience of measuring, placing, drilling, etc. and before long all the rails were mounted.

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This will give me "legs" so I can begin mounting components to the playfield underside that need a bit of clearance. I know it would not be an issue if I was using a rotisserie. . . perhaps I'll graduate up to using one of those when the next project comes along.

#519 25 days ago

Very nice work so far!

#520 24 days ago

First off Doc, get or build a rotisserie! It cracks me up that you do everything to the 9's and dont have such an important tool. Although you have to be really careful to mind the fact that you are only supported around the edges.
Also I am a huge proponent of predrilling everything. These machines are such a work of art when they are done, and so beautiful, one little spot where the hammer slides off the trim nail, or by not predrilling a screw and then over tightening, you have a small mess, its as obvious as a fart in an elevator.
BUT... rather than go thru all of the trouble of using your bit in reverse on the clear, you could use the handy dandy KRUZMAN pf install kit, with 11 shaped dremmil bits to remove the clear just enough to not disturb it. (OK self promotion) it also comes with a sizer, and glue kit. though your sizer idea is not bad in a pinch.

Not to steal your thread (I live alone on a compound, out in no -where. There is no one else to yap to) but this points out the difference between my girlfriends dad and me. He is super talented and restores stuff also.
He was smart enough to live long enough to retire. Another big difference between us is he will go to great lengths to figure out a way to do something with the existing set up he has. I will use any excuse, any, to buy more tools. Often I will end the days work, until the next morning when I can go buy something. I am convinced that is why god invented charge cards. To be able to buy tools when you need them.

Why do you suppose Bally quit using that wonderful pop bumper assembly? I love that assembly. I bet it has to do with profits but it seems like such a step backwards. I would think operators would have loved them (unless they were super cheap)

#521 24 days ago

Sadly Ron, I have bought one of your kits. While I try to be very organized and methodical with such projects it is inevitable that some things fall into the pinball black hole of lost necessities. Your bits are in one of my pinball specific tool boxes. . . at the time (yesterday) that box eluded my detection. Have you ever spent more time looking for a tool than it took to use it? I have. . . sometimes I'm stubborn and take the time to look, other times I work with what I have. I promise to utilize your kit when it comes to mounting upper playfield accessories.

I have no doubt the rotisserie is a handy tool. When it comes to ramps and more complicated playfield mechs it would have to be the way to go. For me personally the simplicity of these older solid state games lends itself well to flipping things over by hand. . . once the drop target mechs get installed it will get heavy but I'll just utilize that as part of a workout routine. At this stage I like the firm surface of the table underneath when stapling in wire, tapping in wire forms, securing T-Nuts, etc.

I'll evolve someday. . . and probably wonder why I had not started using one sooner!

#522 23 days ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

Have you ever spent more time looking for a tool than it took to use it?

I have and it's very frustrating! I have a pinball only toolbox for the specialized tools and a separate pinball retrieval kit. Each has its wrenches, pliers etc. Only thing that moves back and forth are the higher price tools like dmm and soldering iron. And I am not sure where my dmm is right now...

#523 23 days ago

Quick comment:

This thread and this machine = awesome.

#524 23 days ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

Sadly Ron, I have bought one of your kits. While I try to be very organized and methodical with such projects it is inevitable that some things fall into the pinball black hole of lost necessities. Your bits are in one of my pinball specific tool boxes. . . at the time (yesterday) that box eluded my detection. Have you ever spent more time looking for a tool than it took to use it? I have. . . sometimes I'm stubborn and take the time to look, other times I work with what I have. I promise to utilize your kit when it comes to mounting upper playfield accessories.
I have no doubt the rotisserie is a handy tool. When it comes to ramps and more complicated playfield mechs it would have to be the way to go. For me personally the simplicity of these older solid state games lends itself well to flipping things over by hand. . . once the drop target mechs get installed it will get heavy but I'll just utilize that as part of a workout routine. At this stage I like the firm surface of the table underneath when stapling in wire, tapping in wire forms, securing T-Nuts, etc.
I'll evolve someday. . . and probably wonder why I had not started using one sooner!

Totally understand!!!!

#525 22 days ago
Quoted from kruzman:

Why do you suppose Bally quit using that wonderful pop bumper assembly? I love that assembly. I bet it has to do with profits but it seems like such a step backwards. I would think operators would have loved them (unless they were super cheap)

AFAIK, Bally continued to use the one piece pop bumper assembly until they were bought out by Williams in 1988. I am sure that Williams didn't see a need to try and keep different mechs for the same assembly, so those pop bumpers, inline flippers, and anything else was converted over to Williams equivalent parts.

With the exception of more clearance for lamps at the top, I don't care for those pops myself. Broken tabs on pop bumper caps, the occasional broken tab on a pop bumper body, and broken lamp sockets.

#526 22 days ago

Yesterday I decided to switch things up a bit. . . and installed a couple switches.

My original slingshot switches had definitely seen some use so I ordered new ones. The switch hardware had been tumbled/polished -- one of the reasons this playfield repopulation is taking so long is because I'm disassembling/cleaning/reassembling components one piece at a time so as not to mix up parts. It should start to pick up pace soon. . . maybe.
Anyway, I installed the new switches, slingshot mechs, and tied the switches together with my blue wire.

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Top View.

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I put the kickout mechs in their places. I had to enlarge the openings slightly to allow proper clearance for the kicker arm. A skinny file in the little "U" shaped hole did the trick. . . in the end I think I used a chainsaw sharpening file as it fit perfectly!

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Last accomplishment was adding in a new standup target. The original yellow appealed to me as much as the original white center drop targets did. . . I thought about switching colors but the yellow scuba tank and "Extra Ball" writing tie it in somewhat. Pic of the original:

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So I stuck with Yellow. . . but I did decide to use a translucent yellow target from @zitt 's website.
Website link: http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/game-specific-products-star-trek-the-next-generation-23149-target-blade-p-55.html

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The little solder tab is missing on the "new" target but I incorporated another metal leaf into the switch to compensate.

View from the top:

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The target looks close to the playfield surface, but it also looks that way on the original. I suppose I could chisel out a bit of wood from under the playfield to raise it up. . . . . . but the ball contacts the center nicely in this position.

My problem now is I've installed nice, new switches. Now I'm looking at my old, original switches. Of course some part of me is thinking I need to have all nice, new switches, even though the originals are likely very serviceable. I wonder which train of thought will win in the end?

#527 22 days ago

this thread is very translucent!

#528 22 days ago

The amount of love this table is getting is astounding!
Awesome work!

#529 18 days ago

Today's accomplishment involved making notes.
Maps were drawn of lamp sockets and the playfield wiring harness. Careful records were made to know which color wires powered each lamp socket, harness mount locations, etc.

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Then it was time to put the Hakko FR-301 to use and start separating the harness from the playfield. I probably could have used wire cutters to snip the harness at the junction of each socket. . . but where is the fun in that?

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The harness was freed from the playfield in about 20 minutes. Boxed it up and brought it home. . . the Mrs. will be out of town for a couple days soon so I will have the perfect opportunity to give it a wash.

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Looking so bare. . . I should be able to free up this work table soon but will keep the original playfield around for reference. . . just in case.

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Still thinking I can use a new harness should they be produced. . . but I will be wanting to install one soon and a cleaned original works for me too.

#530 17 days ago

Great work, and I truly enjoy following your progress.

Personally I see no point in replacing a harness. I put mine in the ultrasonic cleaner after brushing, they get perfectly clean. And often I replace the zip ties for an even cleaner look. Oh man, we must be crazy...

#531 16 days ago
Quoted from g94:

Personally I see no point in replacing a harness.

Well that settles it. The original shall be reused.

After washing it I decided to do just that and this afternoon I stretched the harness out of the worktable. I ordered some new rollover switches from PBR and thought it better to solder them to the harness before moving over to the playfield. I also took the time to replace the switch diodes and capacitors with new ones. A view of our workstation.

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I replaced the seven rollover switches (two outlanes, two inlanes, and three rollovers above the pops) outright and installed new 1N4004 diodes on each. New switches wired in with the originals in the background.

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PBR did not have new switches for the star rollovers or kickout saucers in stock, so I disassembled them and individually cleaned each leaf.

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During reassembly I'd use a vice-grip to gently hold the switch and keep it from sliding away from my soldering iron.

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Reassembled star rollover switch on the left, original status on the right. I believe the new capacitors are 0.047UF / 50V.

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Its probably a minor detail, but I noticed the gold plating had worn on the contacts of the pop bumber switches (three leaf(s) on the left). I swapped in a new leaf with good contacts (on the right) that I robbed from the rollover switches that were replaced earlier.

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New spoons for the pop bumper switches. See the original in the background? No amount of cleaning is going to help that!

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After a number of hours my back was starting to tell me it was unhappy about my poor posture while soldering. At least all the switches have been replaced or prepped. The harness should be ready to move onto to the playfield soon!

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#532 15 days ago

Here's what gets me. Machines like this Fathom have been around for 40 years. During that time, they were routed, played a lot, probably abused a lot, sold and resold, moved around, banged around, and who knows what else. Amazingly, 40 years later, they are still pretty much working as they should, but a bit worse for the wear. They have become dinged up, banged up, dirty deep inside, and so on. Now after this excellent and dedicated work by TractorDoc, this machine will be as good as it was the day it was built. Probably better actually. And more than likely it will now live its life in a far more pampered environment, staying comfortably in a collector's home where it is maintained and treated with care. Think about it, it will be good for another 40 years at least, probably even longer! Unbelievable. Where will it be 40 years from now? Will it be appreciated for the beautiful historical artifact it is? I won't know 'cause I'll be dead...

#533 15 days ago
Quoted from xsvtoys:

I won't know 'cause I'll be dead...

Giving you a thumbs up for the compliments, not because we will be dead in 40 years!

#534 14 days ago

Down to one work table!

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Even with my pre-removal sketches the computer and "before" pictures were very helpfully in getting the harness back in its correct location.

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All mounting clips for the harness are in place. Sure, I will probably have to remove one or two to solder some wires back in place but todays goal was to get the harness mounts figured out. Mission accomplished!

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Yep, in case you noticed I did decide to sign the playfield underside. This way somebody might know I had something to do with it 40 years from now. . .

#535 12 days ago

Well headed to Lime Ohio again for Thanksgiving. Most of the family will be there like 80+. I would stop to see this amazing work in person if it wasn’t gonna be so late. Well hope your Thanksgiving is good and the family gets to play some
Pinball. Keep up the good work. Thanks for posting.

#536 11 days ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

Giving you a thumbs up for the compliments, not because we will be dead in 40 years!

I gave him a thumbs up because I'll be dead too.

#537 11 days ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

Well headed to Lime Ohio again for Thanksgiving. Most of the family will be there like 80+. I would stop to see this amazing work in person if it wasn’t gonna be so late. Well hope your Thanksgiving is good and the family gets to play some
Pinball. Keep up the good work. Thanks for posting.

Hope you have safe travels and an enjoyable Thanksgiving -- I'd be happy to have any interested party stop in to flip a few games and talk pinball. . . the challenge is getting our schedules to match. Sometimes I can be difficult to pin down. . .

Quoted from Skypilot:

I gave him a thumbs up because I'll be dead too.

You never know. . . we certainly hope not. What are you, like 40?

Soldered some stuff in today. No lamp sockets yet. Started with the slingshot coils and switches.

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Then tied in the flipper coils and switches.

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I believe they are wired in correctly -- I installed new flipper coils/switches and left the originals tied into the harness as a reference. On the originals two brown wires connected the EOS switches with the coils, I substituted in some white/orange/red wires instead.

Short and sweet today. Hope everyone has a GREAT Thanksgiving!

#538 8 days ago

Thanksgiving was awesome. Hope yours was good as well. Driving by had to snap a quick pic.

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#539 7 days ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

Driving by had to snap a quick pic.

Oh so close. . . there is always next time!

Had a number of things to focus on over the last few days. . . family/food, shopping black Friday pinball deals (who thought it would take so long to decide what I needed in my cart at Comet and Titan), fixing the burnt A/C clutch on my cold weather pin hauler, etc.

I did squeeze in a few moments to solder in the bottom half of the playfield harness.

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Hope my notes are accurate. . . although the wires had enough memory to just about go back to their original homes. Hope the second half goes as easy. . . even with the addition of all the playfield mechs.

#540 6 days ago

A big Thank You to Ryanwanger and Comet Pinball -- my order placed at 12:03 AM on Friday arrived in the mail today.

Fantastic Service! I chose the nifty Comet T-shirt as my free gift.

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Did I install any of those fancy bulbs? Maybe. I'll leave those details for a future post!

#541 6 days ago

and sweettarts! score!

#542 6 days ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

and sweettarts! score!

There may or may not have been additional candies that were consumed prior to this picture being taken. . . but I can confirm that I was not sent any Tootsie Rolls.

#543 4 days ago

My Black Friday discounted order from Titan arrived yesterday. Should be no surprise what color rings I'll be using.

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Thanks Titan_Pinball for a great discount and fast service!

#544 4 days ago

You may have noticed in the previous post picture that the pop assemblies are emerging from the playfield.

In addition to soldering in the lamp sockets on the upper half of the playfield I did work on the pops. Earlier on it was mentioned that the playfield had a bit too much milled out in the pop bumper area. To compensate for that I cut "spacers" from some thicker automotive gasket material.

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Placed between the bumper base and playfield the gasket should allow the bumper unit to sit flush.

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Several views of the underside with the pop bumper units in place.

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The flip side to show the bumper bases are more or less even with the playfield.

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The ball test to make sure nothing interferes with bumper skirt contact.

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I'm liking the reflections in the pics.

Perhaps a drop target mech will be installed soon. I'm also working on some ideas to add a bit of light behind the "1-2-3" drop targets -- more details on that in a future post.

#545 2 days ago

Officially soldered in the pop bumper units and center drop target bank today.

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Careful attention was given to positioning the drop target bank in the proper spot -- the reference dimples on the playfield were not quite correct to allow centerd drop targets in the up position.

#546 2 days ago

I lucked out today. fattdirk calls me up “Hey I’m getting a pin from tractordoc you wanna roll up with me?”
Now to me, being some what new to the hobby and being obsessed with restorations, getting to meet Dave is basically like meeting an athlete or celebrity, so heck yeah I’m rolling!
Got to see the Fathom in the flesh, my god is it nice!
Was also lucky enough to play the Paragon. Pretty happy with my score too. fattdirk tried to catch up to me but we can see how that panned out looking at those displays.

It was nice meeting you man!
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#547 2 days ago

But Wait! There is More!

Experimented with bulbs for the GI a bit. Normally I'd go with warm white but the "cooler" blues of the playfield look better in Comet's sunlight to me. In areas where the player can see the bulb I'm using the Retro frosted 1SMDs, in areas under the plastics I'm going with standard frosted 2SMDs.

5J5A2606 (resized).JPG

I've mentioned that I wanted to add light behind the "1-2-3" drop target bank. This area of the playfield is solid with no easy access to the underside -- nowhere to connect to GI wiring. To get around that I utilized one of Comet's Matrix strips (sunlight) and wired it in to the pop bumper assembly directly behind the bank.

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The look is difficult to capture in pics. . . but to my eye it looks outstanding.

5J5A2614 (resized).JPG

The effect was exactly what I was hoping for. Super observant readers will notice the blue finned posts are the taller versions (1 3/8"?) and should be the 1" size. . . just happened to set these up for today's testing.

Three more drop target banks to install. . . then the fun stuff can get fully installed on top!

#548 2 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

It was nice meeting you man!

Likewise!

As you found out, I live in the middle of. . . well, not much. If somehow you find yourself back in the area feel free to touch base -- see if we can set some new high scores!

#549 1 day ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I lucked out today. fattdirk calls me up “Hey I’m getting a pin from tractordoc you wanna roll up with me?”
Now to me, being some what new to the hobby and being obsessed with restorations, getting to meet Dave is basically like meeting an athlete or celebrity, so heck yeah I’m rolling!
Got to see the Fathom in the flesh, my god is it nice!
Was also lucky enough to play the Paragon. Pretty happy with my score too. fattdirk tried to catch up to me but we can see how that panned out looking at those displays.
It was nice meeting you man!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Was 542k the high score of the day?

#550 1 day ago
Quoted from Daditude:

Was 542k the high score of the day?

Almost the high score on the game. I had Dave worried he was going to have to pop the batteries out of the board when I left

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