Pictures not showing up

Can you post some pictures of the way it's wired in currently? And a picture of the lower right flipper for reference. They should be wired basically the same.

Both of those coils seem to be wired up correctly per the schematics. The important thing to note is the band on the diode. It needs to go towards the 48VDC (black-purple-purple). The side without the band should go through the flipper switches (black-green-green) on the cabinet and then to ground. Your wire looks fine.

Do you still have continuity if you disconnect one of the two wires going between the EOS switch and the coil? Sometimes the new EOS switches come with a slight coating from the factory, or aren't adjusted quite right so that they close properly. If there isn't good continuity across them, then the flipper won't work well. Checking for continuity with the EOS switch still connected to the coil can give a false positive as there can be continuity through the coil as well as through the switch.

Also, check the resistance of your new coil, make sure there's a reading between each pair of lugs.

Flippers aren't controlled by transistors on system 3

The diode connects to the outer lugs, it just happens to go over the middle one

The band is the smaller white stripe on the left side of the diode. So the left lug needs to go to the 45V, and the right lug needs to go to ground/the cabinet button.

Try running a wire from the black-green wire on the upper flipper to the black-orange wire on the lower flipper

Running the wire would cut out any possible problems with the flipper button switch, the wiring, connectors, etc, between the flipper and ground. We know there's voltage coming in, so that side must be good, and I don't see anything wrong with the wiring of the coil itself, so I want to rule out the ground side. Since the lower flipper works we know its ground side is good, so just connect them together to test. If it still doesn't work, then there's still some problem with the coil/eos/wiring.

You also said it worked after you rebuilt it until you replaced the bat, so I'm not 100% sure we can narrow the problem down to the rebuild.

But the switch was installed?

I'm also a bit concerned about how the voltage+continuity readings for the coil keep changing. Are you doing anything differently?

Old solder should be fine

Looks like you're on AC not DC if I'm reading that ~ right

Immediately when you flip, or when you start a game, or?

Are you sure you've still got the power and ground wires connected to the right sides of the coils?

What's the resistance between the two outer lugs while it's wired up?

Is this with the red lead of the MM on the banded side of the diode or the non-banded? (test it on the banded side if not)

Sorry, typed that last post out in a hurry. To elaborate:

fuses blow because there's a short. Current is going straight from the 45V to ground with nothing in between (like a coil) to stop it. If the coil was bad and shorted internally, this would cause a short, and you could usually detect it by measuring the resistance of the coil. A reading of around 0.5 ohms or less is usually bad. Another problem could be if the diode was blown. Usually the diode's job is to keep voltage from going in the banded end and out the other. If the diode had failed and shorted internally, then the 45V attached to the banded end would just go straight through (bypassing the coil), and cause a short. Normally you can just use the diode test on your MM to verify if a diode is good, just like you can use the resistance reading to check if the coil is good, but in this case stuff gets weird because you've got a diode and a coil in parallel; they can affect each other's readings.

Now, your coil being shorted isn't too likely since it's new, but sometimes even new coils are bad. One thing that is common though is that, if you wire the coil in backwards, then the 45V will be connected to the non-banded side of the diode, and will be able to freely flow through it. So much current going through the diode will often blow the diode before it blows the fuse, so even if you realize your error and flip the wiring around, now your diode is shorted so you just keep blowing fuses.

Now, the way the resistance test works on your meter is that it sends some voltage out of the red lead, through whatever you've got it hooked to, and then it comes back in the black lead. So, if you try to measure the resistance of the coil, but you put your red lead on the non-banded side of the diode, then that test voltage will go straight through the diode (bypassing the coil), and you'll get a very low reading (like you did) even though everything could be fine. However, if you put the red lead on the banded side of the diode (and the black lead on the non-banded side), the voltage shouldn't be able to go through the diode, and you can usually get a better reading.

Even then, however, sometime you can get weird readings. The one 100% reliable way to test the coil is with the diode clipped off. At that point, if you measure the resistance across the outer lugs, you should get a reading of a few ohms (while the EOS switch is attached and closed) and 30+ ohms (if the EOS switch is detached or open).

While you've got the diode clipped off, it's a good opportunity to test the diode too. Usually, since I've already removed the diode, I just throw it away and attach a new one since it's sometime hard to clip them nicely and reattach them.

99% of the time yes. There could be some other issue in the wiring but it's rare

Just clip the old one off and solder a new on in where it was. You'll want a 1n4004 or 1n4007.

At worst, the capacitor could blow and short itself internally, but then it'd just be like the eos was always closed. Your flipper would still work, but your coil would melt after a while. It should be safe to disconnect it while testing.

Reading amperage isnt that useful here. Voltage and resistance are what you want. If you want confirmation of how you're reading, we'll need to see where you've got the leads as well

The hold winding should be that high, that's normal. 0.7 actually seems a bit low by comparison. For that flipper it should be around 3-4 ohms. Unless the EOS was closed then, in which case you're measuring the EOS, not the coil. Need to hold open EOS to get a good reading.

That sounds good, coil seems fine