Hi everyone,

There is an Earthshaker for sale near me. What would you say is a fair price? I dont know much other than the owner had it in his home for 16 years, recently had 400 worth of service (including board work) and bought it at an auction.

I see:
Scratches on glass
Playfield wear on left inland
Mylar bubbling on inserts

Dont know much about the game other than what The owner has stated and I can see in the pics.

Thanks.

Screenshot_20181229-141908_Facebook (resized).jpgScreenshot_20181229-141904_Facebook (resized).jpgScreenshot_20181229-141917_Facebook (resized).jpgScreenshot_20181229-141655_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20181229-141712_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20181229-141702_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20181229-141706_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20181229-141658_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20181229-141736_Chrome (resized).jpg

He also mentioned it does have a credit dot... is this possibly an easily fix or most likely not?

SORRY, he said no credit dot. Also said the backbox lighting works. Hmm. I do agree it looks awfully dark.

Invoice of the work performed

Screenshot_20181229-145343_Drive (resized).jpg

Pic was at bad time, I've seen other pics with display working.

I agree on pics of boards, but not sure if he even knows how to open the backbox. I offered 1900 and he said ok. It is on first floor.

I went to go pick it up yesterday. It's not perfect unfortunately not nearly as good as it looked in the pictures. The cabinet Graphics have considerable amount of wear. There is a stripped lug bolt in the back left rear of the cabinet which I guess is not that big of a deal with the plates. There is some wood missing from that part of the cabinet but it's not too bad. There is also some damage to the left side of the cabinet to the point where I could probably flake off some wood in the middle of the cabinet.

When I play the game at the guy's house I thought the fault didn't work, but it didn't understand that opens during multi-ball not at the start of multi-ball. Thankfully, the fault does open.

The Shaker motor does not work but when I lifted the Playfield I saw that two plugs on the left side near the Shaker motor are unplugged. I need to figure out which fuses those coordinate to replace them if needed and then plug it in and see if it works. I'm nervous about just plugging it in without understanding this part.

I do have two blown fuses in the lower left part of the upper right board. I'm too much of a noob to know what this board is called. Unfortunately there is some burn damage on a couple spots on the board.

Last but not least the GI Lighting in the Playfield works but it Cycles on and off. Maybe about three seconds off and then it comes back on. When it Cycles on and off I can hear a relay clicking.

Is it normal for these two Gray cylinders to be zip tied together? I think these are capacitors but honestly I have but honestly I have absolutely no clue. Just seems odd that they would be zip tied like this.

The backbox GI lighting doesn't work but like I said above fuses F2 and F3 appear to be blown. I think he's fuses have something to do with the backbox GI so it might be as simple as a fuse. As you can see there does appear to be some burning on the backboard White part?

There are some cracks in a few of the ramps, not surprising. The left flipper also frequently fails to go all the way back down. Could need a rebuild or maybe just a good cleaning no idea like I said I'm new and ready to explore these things but just not sure yet.

just wanted to give you all an update. Maybe I overpaid maybe I didn't for 2019 dollars- I'm not sure. Either way I'm happy to have this game in my house and looking forward to working out the issues.

Playfield does have somewhere in a couple of areas. More than I could see from the pictures originally but it's not totally roached. It looks like mylar has been removed and reapplied and the original mylar was not really cleaned up very well.

Overall, I'm still happy I got the game. Let me know if you have any ideas on the gi playfield lighting cycling, if I should just plug the shaker motor in, and thoughts on the burn spots on the board and f2 f3 fuses.

I took a picture of the relay board in blackbox because I'm thinking that's why the backbox GI lighting doesn't work. I think F2 and F3 fuses might be related so that probably doesn't help either LOL.

Thanks everyone!

20190102_074519 (resized).jpg

20190102_074531 (resized).jpg

20190102_074537 (resized).jpg

20190102_074603 (resized).jpg

20190102_074543 (resized).jpg

20190102_074551 (resized).jpg

20190102_074625 (resized).jpg

20190102_074930 (resized).jpg

20190102_074936 (resized).jpg

Plugged the shaker motor in and ran through tests. It worked but was weak. Played the game and it came to life! Sweet!!!!!

Issues I see:
- 1 sticky drop target
- fault opens, but not far enough to drop the ball. Light shaking of the machine allows the ball to roll down the fault line as expected
- gi lighting cycles during attract mode, works fine during play. (Is this normal)?
- pictured blue target is pretty roached but it works. Yellow circle target is missing/ gone but the switch functions.
- left flipper needs a rebuild... stick with sys 11 or order new fliptronic assemblies from pinball life?
-more playfield wear than I expected but not that bad overall I suppose!

20190102_100614 (resized).jpg

20190102_100620 (resized).jpg

20190102_100628 (resized).jpg

20190102_100650 (resized).jpg

20190102_100707 (resized).jpg

20190102_100714 (resized).jpg

20190102_100732 (resized).jpg

In the pics above, the "new" mylar goes around my thumb while you can see the grime line from old mylar.

Thanks for your reply completist. I think you're saying to pull that board and replace the two 10k caps with the proper one. I'll check into that and learn how to do it.

I saw the shaker motor settings in the menu but hadn't messed with it yet. It definitely does work just find even now.

As far as flippers go - do you think upgrading to fliptronic is worth it or keep system 11 and just get a rebuild kit / check if it is gummed up? I suppose the later is the cheaper fix, esp if a cleaning will fix it