(Topic ID: 293190)

Price drop when faded cabinet

By marschner

5 months ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 38 posts
  • 25 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by swampfire
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 5 months ago

How much is the price affected by sun faded cabinet sides when bying a used pinball?
I have been offered a nice Indiana Jones (WMS) with nice playfield and cabinet. Only drawback is the sun faded right side and front.
Should this result in a price reduction?
Is a cabinet with original faded sidearts better when selling than putting on new decals?

-5
#2 5 months ago

How much do decals cost?
Try to reduce that from asking price if the price is on the higher end and you care a lot.

I don't care much about fade, and I doubt most people do as long as the price is right.

11
#3 5 months ago

A good decal job will run at least a thousand to 1500. Cost of decals and then all the prep for a quality install. Pain in the ass and a ton of work.

#4 5 months ago
Quoted from marschner:

Should this result in a price reduction?

As a buyer, If you can get some cash off then of course do it!
In reality, whom really cares. If you are a new collector, and I don't know just offering advice, I wouldn't be so anal aboot stuff like this.

#5 5 months ago

Depends on asking price. If they want CQ price for it then hell no, if they want average pinside value then probably not a big deal. I have gotten to where I don't care about looks much anymore as long as the price is right.

#6 5 months ago
Quoted from marschner:

...
Is a cabinet with original faded sidearts better when selling than putting on new decals?

This is a personal preference. I personally would prefer an ok original cabinet over reproduction. That's just me.
It all depends on "how faded" is "faded".

Quoted from marschner:

...
Should this result in a price reduction?

It's all "relative to what".

Relative to the exact same game with nicer original decals? Sure

But keep in mind that a fully restored IJ (w/new cabinet decals, etc.) is not what the high end pinside price is generally showing. Fully restored, such as by HEP, will be much higher.

#7 5 months ago

Almost all of the WMS IJ cabinets are faded. If you have it in a lineup with machines on each side you may not notice that much.

#8 5 months ago

All depends on the price that the person is asking, and if they are taking the fading into account based on market value. Slightly off topic but I get a kick out of reading a thread started from someone from somewhere I never heard of. Odense? Where the H is that? Then I look it up, and am fascinated where it is. Oh to travel again to different lands...

#9 5 months ago

Ozzy
I am just a novice in the Pinball world but are glued decals not used on a Pinball origionally?
How come that a decal job cost that much? Are decals not around 2-300 Dollars?
What is the correct procedure for putting new decals on?

#10 5 months ago

altan
The right side and the front has practially no color anymore, only the pyramids shows a little blue. The front additionally has 2 holes from a coindoor protector.

Quoted from altan:

But keep in mind that a fully restored IJ (w/new cabinet decals, etc.) is not what the high end pinside price is generally showing. Fully restored, such as by HEP, will be much higher.

What is the difference? What is HEP?

#12 5 months ago

Cab fade is something everybody pretends to care about but only a tiny percentage of buyers actually do.

#13 5 months ago

CrazyLevi
Actually I think the worst part is the front because it´s always visible no matter how close the pinballs are placed to each other.

#14 5 months ago

Tell us what he's selling it for and we'll tell you if you should be picky about cabinet fade.

#15 5 months ago

A couple points. Cabinet decals shouldn’t matter much because in most lineups you never see them. I generally don’t care. But I have found when I try to sell a game, if there are cabinet issues a buyer is usually going to want a discount. Whether they themselves care or not, some people do and so it affects resale value. The worse the damage and fading, the more it affects it.

As to why it affects value so much, it is a fairly big job to replace them. The cabinet needs to be taken apart, old decals removed, defects filled and smoothed, primed and sanded, new decals applied, and everything put back together. Plus while doing that it often only makes sense to replace several parts that have wear like flipper buttons, side rails, legs, maybe lockdown bar and coin door. It’s one of those things that once you take the time to make it look good it’s kinda weird not to make the rest look good.

#16 5 months ago
Quoted from Isjack:

How much do decals cost?
Try to reduce that from asking price if the price is on the higher end and you care a lot.

You obviously have zero clue about cab restoration.

#17 5 months ago

On something like an IJ given the fade you’ve described I’d expect at least $1000 off a higher end price because that’s a premium machine and most buyers want a premium condition.

-1
#18 5 months ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

You obviously have zero clue about cab restoration.

Reduce $2k and give the seller Blackbeard's cell phone number so he can describe to the seller in detail why $2k is the appropriate amount.

The dude didn't ask about the cost and time involved with restoring a cabinet. He asked if it reduces the price. The answer? It depends on the price.

#19 5 months ago
Quoted from Isjack:

Reduce $2k and give the seller Blackbeard's cell phone number so he can describe to the seller in detail why $2k is the appropriate amount.
The dude didn't ask about the cost and time involved with restoring a cabinet. He asked if it reduces the price. The answer? It depends on the price.

Take
The time to restore a cab correctly and
Then open your pie hole.

And no, you never have, cause if you had, you wouldn’t be yapping.

#20 5 months ago

Pointless discussion without hearing condition and price.

Take a game. Any will do.

If on average a game sells for 5k and it has average issues and buyer asks 5k, no.

So 90s williams cabs fade. Its typical. An example without fade brings more than average. Is he asking the going rate? Does it have thousands in mods and a great pf? We dont know...

#21 5 months ago

Like others have said, depends on the price being asked, but if I have two to choose from and all equal, I'm getting the one with less fade.

#22 5 months ago
Quoted from dung:

So 90s williams cabs fade. Its typical. An example without fade brings more than average.

Yeah for those the topic question should really be more like "Premium price when completely non-faded cabinet?"

For years I never even knew that my JackBot was supposed to have the reds in it. Bummed me out when I found out, now I'm ho hum about it. I can only see the front and I never really look at that anyway. Found out how much work it would be to do new decals, no way, not worth it for me. One guy redid all his reds with a friggin' red sharpie pen and it looked surprisingly good.

If somebody has one where all the colors have faded to near-nothing, if there are such animals, they should tell sellers, "Aw man don't ya dig my concept? It's supposed to be like the cabinet on that one-off monochrome Twilight Zone."

#23 5 months ago

The question in reverse can give insight as well… How much more would the asking price be if the decals and everything in the game were mint/perfect?
I mean, maybe the seller has already dropped the price based on condition and what they think it’s worth. We don’t know because we don’t the game condition and local market conditions.

#25 5 months ago
Quoted from marschner:

Are decals not around 2-300 Dollars?

yeah the decals aren't super expensive, I've only done one full sized decal on an arcade.
it was a lot more work than I thought it was going to be. It's almost all prep work, putting on the decal is easy. If the edges aren't all chewed up and you have a nice base it probably won't be to bad (other than disassembling everything). Even the smallest imperfections are magnified if you didn't do enough on the prep side. After that experience unless the art is beat to crap or gone, I'll live with it.

#26 5 months ago

The OP is in Finland. If I were him, I would snag it up ASAP. My guess is there are not a lot available to be this picky about the decals!

#27 5 months ago
Quoted from marschner:

CrazyLevi
Actually I think the worst part is the front because it´s always visible no matter how close the pinballs are placed to each other.

I had those 2 holes from the coin door protector. Solution is to install 2 black matching flat head bolts (matching others around the pin) and you’re good. It’s an easy natural looking fix until you’re ready to do a full decal job. Did this to my Indy, looks great

#28 5 months ago
Quoted from alexanr1:

The OP is in Finland. If I were him, I would snag it up ASAP. My guess is there are not a lot available to be this picky about the decals!

Denmark.. driven through there many times pre-pandemic. But yr point is equally valid

#29 5 months ago
Quoted from Completist:

.. driven through there many times pre-pandemic.

Wow that's pretty cool. Never been anywhere near Scandinavia but would love to go.

#30 5 months ago
Quoted from marschner:

Ozzy
I am just a novice in the Pinball world but are glued decals not used on a Pinball origionally?
How come that a decal job cost that much? Are decals not around 2-300 Dollars?
What is the correct procedure for putting new decals on?

The prep work to do it properly (everything lines up, smooth, no bubbles, etc) takes a good amount of time. Removing the original decals leaves residue that must be removed and the surface prepared for fresh ones. I've done it twice and it would have to be a really special game to do it again.

#31 5 months ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

I had those 2 holes from the coin door protector. Solution is to install 2 black matching flat head bolts (matching others around the pin) and you’re good. It’s an easy natural looking fix until you’re ready to do a full decal job. Did this to my Indy, looks great

Black elevator bolts also look ok and cover a multitude of sins.

#32 5 months ago

Hi everybody. Thanks for your good answers and suggestions
I think I really would prefer original decals with color even with a few scratches over faded decals with no damages.
I don´t want to do complete new decals.

#33 5 months ago
Quoted from marschner:

Hi everybody. Thanks for your good answers and suggestions
I think I really would prefer original decals with color even with a few scratches over faded decals with no damages.
I don´t want to do complete new decals.

Then prepare to wait and be prepared to pay through the nose.

#34 5 months ago
Quoted from marschner:

Hi everybody. Thanks for your good answers and suggestions
I think I really would prefer original decals with color even with a few scratches over faded decals with no damages.
I don´t want to do complete new decals.

Not sure how many IJs pop up in your area of the world. So it may be a question of "do I wait X months for another opportunity" or do you accept the decals as faded. As others have said the price is key. If someone is selling the game at a collectors quality price and the condition doesn't match you may be overpaying.

In this market - overpaying seems to be the norm though. It is a sellers market these days especially on IJ and higher end stuff.

As a practical matter - unless the fade was TERRIBLE I'd keep the original decals over trying to put new ones on. As others have said many people with average skills (myself included) would probably make the cabinet worse trying to apply new decals.

There is NOTHING wrong with an original game with a few blemishes and aging. I worry more about cracked ramps I can't buy and exposed wood on the playfield etc. How the game plays is way more critical to me.

#35 5 months ago
Quoted from marschner:

Is a cabinet with original faded sidearts better when selling than putting on new decals?

It should be noted that that era of WMS/Bally games did not use cabinet decals, at least not until Monster Bash came out. They actually silk screened directly onto the cabinets. Some cabinets the underlayment still seemed to have some form of a sticker over the wood as certain titles (CFTBL for instance) that seemed to have worse peeling problems where the legs attached.

All that said a collector like me would much rather the original cabinet if possible just because those are more durable than a sticker job, no matter how well it's done. If the fading is really tragic then it might be better to go with decals, but in most cases I'd rather have some fade and a few scratches to not have to put up with peeling decals. YMMV.

#36 5 months ago

Pretty much all games have it so really a non issue. The important thing is the condition of pf and overall condition of cab. If chunks are missing and deep scratches then that might affect price. On a popular game like IJ, I would not be too picky. If you do not buy it someone else will if priced reasonable.

#37 5 months ago

I guess you are all right and not many are for sale around here. I have some great input now for making up my mind.
If one will show with NO damages and no fade the price will be insane I can imagine.

#38 5 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The prep work to do it properly (everything lines up, smooth, no bubbles, etc) takes a good amount of time. Removing the original decals leaves residue that must be removed and the surface prepared for fresh ones. I've done it twice and it would have to be a really special game to do it again.

Exactly - I’ve done cab decals for JM and WW, and it’s a total PITA. Not gonna do that again.

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