Hello all, this is my first post, but got hooked on pinball over the last few weeks. I can purchase a t2 in excellent condition for 1650. Is this pretty fair? Thank you all for this great community, I have learned a ton!
Hello all, this is my first post, but got hooked on pinball over the last few weeks. I can purchase a t2 in excellent condition for 1650. Is this pretty fair? Thank you all for this great community, I have learned a ton!
Thanks for the responses! I kind of overpaid I think on my first two pins, 2k for Data east Simpsons and 2k for Nightmare on elm street. Simpsons playfield is pretty flakey, but not too bad, and freddy seems to be having an issue with the boiler gate.
Check all the plastics, the commonly broken plastics are hard to find and when you can, they are $$$
Verify the cannon works smoothly.
Check the skull and ship for cracks or missing pieces. These can be found for ~$80
Check all the board connectors in the backbox for burned connectors and hacks. This machine is susceptible to burning connectors especially at J115, J120 and J121 on the driver board. This is a fairly easy fix, so do not be afraid if they look toasty.
Take the playfield glass off and check the level of each of the inserts. The large inserts on this machine were susceptible to moving (up or down) which can cause paint chipping on the edges of the inserts.
As others have said, I think $1650 is a fair price for this machine in good condition. Won't hurt to try and talk him down a few hundred....
Yes!...check single drop target under skull.
Check the HK Ship to see if it's broken. (on left side of playfield)
Make sure cannon works. Check for broken plastics.
Print out a pic of a complete playfield and check it against what is there, if you're not sure.
Play a bunch of games. Check for wear spots on the playfield.
Take the glass out and roll the ball over everything to make sure the switches are good and everything works.
Quoted from Blackbeard:Yep good price if nice. Ive seen prices all over there place. Nicest T2 I've seen was Weir Pinball's cc'd T2 last year at the Ohio Show.
Second this. Played this at league and I couldn't pry myself from it haha.
Quoted from forensicd:I am going to see it tonight, but these are the only pics I have seen of it. Hard to tell from these.
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Is this the CL ad that started out at $2,900? Glad they reduced their asking price if so. Good Luck. Take your time looking it over and don't be afraid to walk away.
$1650 is a good price.. even for a players game (IMO). Like others said... check that the cannon works, drop target and VUK.
GI lights strings are almost always burned out to some degree on this game! Check the GI power connection point on the power driver board. HINT HINT.. turn the game on in the dark.. I go duped early on and excited to buy one of my "first pins" and played this on with the lights on in someone's house. opps. YEP GI connection toast (and in those days I had to pay someone to fix it)
T2 is a BLAST.... definite game to LED up!! and maybe pinfidelity speaker upgrade. Game is a rush!
Now get on over there and shake it down!
Ok I picked it up tonight for 1600. It looks amazing, cabinet is excellent and so is play-field and plastics. Plays fast. Only issue is that the kick back works only intermittently. I took the glass off and pressed it down then it works for a bit but then stops working again. Any ideas on this? I really don't know much about pinballs so please keep this in mind. Thanks!
Take off the metal apron and have a good look at everything under there.
Probably that area needs cleaning at the least.
Make sure everything is screwed down tight and moving smoothly.
Throw the game into Switch Edge Test and test the switches with a ball to make sure they are all working correctly.
When you gave a chance, open the backbox and take some good closeup pics of connectors J115 J120 J121 (lower left corner of the board) on the big Power Driver Board. Those are almost always fried on T2.
RussMyers
Really appreciate it when experienced Pinsiders step up and offer their advice and wisdom to those who are new or relatively new to pinball. Thumbs up!
I wouldn't go buying expensive mods like led kits and speaker systems.
You could get sick of this game in a month. Don't be in a rush to just start pouring money you'll never recoup into this game. Doesn't NEED any of that stuff regardless I've had about 10 T2s and they were all great as is.
As far as the kickback, your switch is 23 years old there may need replacement. Now is a good time to start learning how these switches work, and how the diagnostic features of your game function. Would be great if you have a local friend or acquaintance who will school you in exchange for a couple beers. Or just start playing around in the menus.
Quoted from forensicd:Ok I picked it up tonight for 1600. It looks amazing, cabinet is excellent and so is play-field and plastics. Plays fast. Only issue is that the kick back works only intermittently. I took the glass off and pressed it down then it works for a bit but then stops working again. Any ideas on this? I really don't know much about pinballs so please keep this in mind. Thanks!
The wire switch probably needs to be adjusted. Maybe just bending it up a bit.
Only adjust switches with the power off.
I disagree with CrazyLevi....you can get bright white LED's (555's and 47's) and simply pull up the hood and change them out, you can do it all from underneath .. HEY - while there - look around at stuff and connections.. I find that I learn a lot about "things" while pulling sockets and switching bulbs. quite often you can see "quick" fixes that the homeowner did or had a "repair tech" do! HAHA
LED's ==== http://www.cometpinball.com/
I bet there will be a nice black Friday sale.. just get all bright white for color (I wouldn't even bother with matching colors) , Guy is nice - fast ship, fair ship rates, and has some neat LED modding stuff that is what I would consider DIRT CHEAP - and best bang for buck , and it lets you use your creative imagination on your own lighting! http://www.cometpinball.com/6-3-V-Plug-Play-Strips-Comet-Pinball-p/6.3vsmdstrips.htm
Best upgrade IMO
game begs the LED lighting (will post a few pix soon)
Lastly: if and when you get sick of the game,,,, then sell it off,,,, watch ,,, "YOU'LL BE BACK"
10 T2's!!! wow... how'd ya get themtruckload sale? HA!
happy pinballin
pix of LED lighting, a few blue Led strip mods (comet's), Red LED strip put into T-800 skull topper, LED red rings in popper caps, Inner cab T2 side decal. Now I just gotta get that damn right flipper firing as hard as the left one... rrrrrrrrrrr
A.JPG B.JPG c.JPG d.JPG e (1)-668.JPG e (2)-753.JPGoh yeah you may have noticed the T-1000 figure in the middle....... - I forgot - I did my own "poor man's version" of the T-1000 (metal cop terminator) mounted on the metal plate in the center of the playfield on the 3 targets.... its not lighted but hey- the price was right and I did it myself (you can get the action figure on ebay at a nice price)
I bet I could light that HK ship myself with the use of a comet blue LED light strip and some creativity?
Man, you guys are awesome on here! I cant tell you how much confidence it gives to a newb knowing that there are people here to help out. It appears a lot of the lights have been converted to LEDs. I am still having the kickback issue. I tried just simply bending up the metal switch, and it seemed to work for several games, but now I have to go back, take off glass and push it down again, then it works fine again. Also one other odd note, the lights for the ramp score seems to be backwards!
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The scoring starts at the top and goes back, down, so it looks like the 5,000,000 shot is the first. I figured out how to test the lights from the menu and sure enough they seemed to be wired in reverse. Is this an easy fix? Thanks again, you all have been great!
Quoted from pinnaf:pix of LED lighting, a few blue Led strip mods (comet's), Red LED strip put into T-800 skull topper, LED red rings in popper caps, Inner cab T2 side decal. Now I just gotta get that damn right flipper firing as hard as the left one... rrrrrrrrrrr
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Wow! Nicely done! Now I want a T2!
Quoted from forensicd:The scoring starts at the top and goes back, down, so it looks like the 5,000,000 shot is the first. I figured out how to test the lights from the menu and sure enough they seemed to be wired in reverse. Is this an easy fix?
Yep! Easiest fix you will ever have on a pinball game. The lights for the ramp scoring are all on a long circuit board. Unscrew the 3 screws mounting the board to the playfield (1/4" nut driver), spin it around and screw it back on!
The previous owner must have removed that light board and screwed it on backwards!
Also noticed that some of the yellow round inserts above the skull on the center of the playfield are not lighting. This can be caused by a lose socket on the light board (for the individual bulbs) or weak solder joints on the pins that the connector plugs into on the board. If wiggling the connector makes them come back on for a while, you have a bad solder joint on the pins (common for this machine).
If that doesn't change anything, look at the individual bulb sockets. They twist a quarter turn and pull right out.
Try bending ups the brass tabs on the socket.
Look at the wires on the LEDs in the socket to make sure they are in the right position (should not be off the edge of the socket, etc).
When reinserting the bulb socket in the board, the rectangle base of the socket can be inserted in 2 different orientations. If the bulb does not light, try removing the socket and spinning it 1/2 turn and reinserting. Some LEDs must be wired with a specific polarity.
yep, the previous owner started tinkering with "color" - I have found the first thing people want to do is make the T2 blue! its a very common modification . personally I like bright white.. the game is pretty "blue as it is"... I put BLUE #89 flashers all around... kinda like that look.. but again to each his/her own, the beauty of moding.
my guess is that the switch lever is leaning on something and may not be clicking all the way down or moreover the switch may be shot internally. its a part number - you can get that whole switch and lever assembly at marco/pinball life and other places... its common. I can look up the part number if you don't have a manual (but its online at IPD).... even if its not it.. don't worry having an extra switch is no biggie.. I am sure its the same switch and wire lever for the roll overs in the game too.
DAMN IT YOU WANTA TO GET CREDIT and a ball saved FOR THAT KICKBACK AWARD!!!! without it working its like what's the sense of the right 3bank target set.
if these are your main little issues YOU DID WELL AT $1600 no matter what, SCORE!
$1600 is a great price. I paid $1750 for mine last year and it had a few broken plastics and hadn't been cleaned in years. It has some playfield wear and you can tell it was on route at one point in it's life. Everything works great and I've taken a lot of time to clean it up. I installed all blue LED and it looks gorgeous now.
10409138_10152077819722396_6324655374715426602_n.jpgYou reflexive LEDers are insane.
Near the flippers there is no excuse for anything besides incandescent 44 or 47 bulbs.
I don't care what you do elsewhere but it's nice to be able to see the ball when playing pinball.
I know not everyone buys em to play em but please...think about the children!!
Quoted from CrazyLevi:You reflexive LEDers are insane.
Near the flippers there is no excuse for anything besides incandescent 44 or 47 bulbs.
I don't care what you do elsewhere but it's nice to be able to see the ball when playing pinball.
I know not everyone buys em to play em but please...think about the children!!
You should probably get your eyes checked old man. Never had issues with LEDs in the slings.
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