(Topic ID: 89124)

Price Check - Jurassic Park

By GoodToBeDad

9 years ago


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  • 50 posts
  • 27 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by aalucero
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#20 9 years ago

I own one, so take this with a grain of salt those of you that want to price police, but...

JP is all about the hole wear. If your C hole and A hole are blown out, you'll get much less money for the game then if they are nice looking. I've seen C and A holes that are so blown out the ball coming out of the pops will change trajectory and sometimes just slip into one or the other. Because of that, people that have holes with little wear can get a lot of money for them.

And yes, I realize you can read that with a dirty mind and giggle, and if you just did that, you're welcome. But I'm also serious.

I have a NICE Jurassic Park. It has almost no hole wear. The last time I had it out and about, I had people offer me $3k for it because of how nice it was, and I turned them down. And, this was back when you could pick up a Jurassic Park easily for $1,000.

With the hole wear that you have, I would start at a higher price point. That's not typical wear, it's minor wear. If you don't need to sell it, I'd start closer to $2500 or even a bit higher than that, and work your way backwards. It might take you a while to sell, but you'll get more for it in the end. If you need to sell it now, a price of $2kish and it will walk out the door within a week I would guess.

That's a very nice example of a game that picked up a ton of wear in the field. Good luck with it. I wouldn't (and didn't!) sell mine for $3k! New code is going to be great too, and should give it another little push.

#25 9 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

That is freakin hilarious. Great work

I'm glad someone noticed

What I find particularly funny about it is that it's also 100% appropriate to the context of the discussion and the game. The OP clearly has some holes that have been taken care of.

#42 9 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Because they don't play as well, and have just the worst art ever. Newman's fingers in the first pic for reference.

I don't think that DE games play any worse, I think that it is a hang over of the ops opinions of them from back in the day, much like a lot of the stuff in our hobby is still ultimately based on ops from the 90s... (and indirectly, players in the 90s actions)

DE games were known for making good coin but not being very reliable. From what I was told, they made the best coin for a while, but had a bunch of issues during that time. JP is a perfect example of it - the code was updated for the T-Rex movement a whole bunch, there were service bulletins for the A-hole's switch diode, and because of this JP might be out there earning great but costing the op five service calls a week.

B/W games needed to be dialed in, but then generally held up well and earned solidly.

Gottlieb games were built like tanks, but earned the least of the three manufacturers.

Because of this, ops were more willing to sell DE games cheaper back in the day, and people remember the DE titles less than the big B/W games that lasted on route for years because of it. I know of a bunch of B/W games still on route, but basically no DE titles. the perception was that the DE games weren't as good, and that lingers.

The only thing that does drive me nuts about DE games is that their modes are ridiculously similar. I had JP and Tommy side by side for a while, and although they are both great games, it started driving me nuts how similar Tommy played, so I swapped it out for a different game. It seems like almost all DE DMD games are like that - JP, Tommy, TFTC and WWFRR, all games that I own, all with wildly different playfields, all have rather similar rules. In a smaller collection, I wouldn't need all four - I'd pick my favorite playfield and keep it around.

Contrary to popular belief, I don't feel that the DE games play any more "clunky" then anything else - for that trophy, play my JD or Popeye - and I've had far more problems maintaining my B/W titles then my DE ones so far, but I chalk that up to luck, not anything to do with the manufacturer.

Oh, and DE pops suck, I've detailed before that you should swap the spoons out to Williams ones as that does make them about fifty times more responsive. That is the one design thing that I do think holds them back. That, and the fuse clips, but that's a pretty small deal.

#45 9 years ago

Right - For 90s games, we buy games that we remember and loved, not that we think might have been cool. By not having the machines on route as long, it's exactly like you say - B/W games get the restoration treatments, and DE games are generally just the game you get cheap and set up.

Sega games suffer from often half thought out rule sets. They are usually great once you have played them for a while and you understand the deep strategy that is involved, but the surface just sucks and leaves you with a bad first impression. I managed an arcade for a year that had a Viper Night Drivin' and I *hated* it. Two or three years later, a friend told me he loved it and explained why, and in doing so explained the rules. It's now one of my top three games... but the first impression, yeeech.

A shopped, dialed in DE game plays absolutely fine, and once all of the details are figured out with getting them running, they are reliable too.

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