(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

5 years ago


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  • 10,678 posts
  • 442 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 minute ago by Quench
  • Topic is favorited by 243 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

11 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #227 Various gate tips. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #269 Hi quality thoughts from Cotton about inlanes. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #279 Playfield touch up tips. Posted by klr650 (5 years ago)

Post #309 Stern inserts suggestions. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #310 Seawitch gate flap solution. Posted by frunch (5 years ago)

Post #1033 Bally drop targets on the classic stern, even mix and match. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #1958 Star Gazer podcast episode link. Posted by DRDAVE (4 years ago)

Post #2587 Link to 3D printed parts available from HHaase. Posted by HHaase (4 years ago)

Post #2590 Link to 3D printed parts by Swinks, available at Shapeways. Posted by swinks (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider wolffcub.
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#442 5 years ago

Bought this wreak in July for $450cad. It did nothing but power up few display box lights. Almost every night it gets about 10 games on it.

Link to all pics fixed

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/icset5v3w69oduu/AAAD81rsyzXn4VbB99IqN_MJa?dl=0

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#462 5 years ago
Quoted from statictrance:

wolffcub - Nice job on that restore, but WTF happened to that original playfield? Yikes!

That was it after I bar sanded it. It was so badly raised due to moisture damage.

#463 5 years ago

My Lectronamo has been misbehaving over the last few days and needs a kick in the rear.

4872576D-6128-49DA-AF45-67D882D379FD (resized).jpeg4872576D-6128-49DA-AF45-67D882D379FD (resized).jpegFBC7239F-AAB3-45C1-A871-6BFEFE7C641B (resized).jpegFBC7239F-AAB3-45C1-A871-6BFEFE7C641B (resized).jpeg
#466 5 years ago

Drops at the moment are flush at the top. If I raid them am I not going to cause havoc when the ball needs to roll into the rubber and hits that slightly raised edge ? Got over 700 plays and I thought it was funny it happens. It the first time it ever happens and all within 24 hours on the weekend.

#498 5 years ago

See pic

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#504 5 years ago

Man I can batter those out on the laser table all day long.

#509 5 years ago

Im new to all this stuff but what exactly is the issue with the old sea witch shooter lane? Was the old method of the metal flap a bad design or is it that no one makes a replacement so others are making up options?

#511 5 years ago

I like solving issues. Is someone willing to work with me and get me some dimensions if I supply a drawing ?

#513 5 years ago

Why not just a heavier gauge gate with a torsion spring setup at the pivot?

#517 5 years ago

crude but gets the idea across.

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#528 5 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Got my first classic stern. It needs a good cleaning but overall it’s pretty clean
[quoted image]

I like the art on this one.

1 month later
#681 5 years ago

My papers show a 25k pot being used, at least that's what my info says for my SB-100 setup. Not sure what sound card yours uses so the info i posted might not help.

#683 5 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Can anyone please tell me what volume potentiometer I could use to replace the one on my Stern Lightning? I cant find the parts number on the manual.
Thank You

Found your schematics. Not much help are they with the note lol "External volume pot not located on PC board"

#697 5 years ago
Quoted from supermoot:

You know whats better than lectronimo?
Several lectroniomo's.

I approve this post !

1 month later
#898 5 years ago

my old stern had worn pivots also, the pin was worn more than the sleeve. I took a different approach and my mod allowed me to do fine adjustments with the nut to not allow the arm to rock on the new pin (bolt).

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-lectronamo-rebuild/page/7#post-4602455

3 months later
#1536 4 years ago

I just mask and repaint mine. Generally more custom than original. That should be a easy part to do from scratch and make it match the apron.

2 weeks later
#1577 4 years ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Novus 1 for a basic wipe down. I then usually lightly magic eraser with isopropyl alcohol. After that to clean the magic eraser slurry I take a tiny buffer pad in a cordless drill with novus 2 and hit it good with that. Cleans the slurry and brings a nice sheen back to original lawyer finish. Finish off with quality 100% carnival wax.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

lol carnival wax..... it will be the best show you have even seen once you play your next game.

2 months later
#1997 4 years ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Set up in the workshop. Time to truly learn the way of the Stern. Typical battery corrosion right of passage.
Going to take a big cleanup job, I’m convinced this thing has been sitting since the mid 80’s.
I’m going to have fun with this one.[quoted image]

I wish my back glass was that nice.

#2019 4 years ago
Quoted from HHaase:

I just figured since mine would be a while until it was ready to try and play, I'd ask and see if they were interested. In this case they were.

its interesting to see CPR interested in Lectronamo after i always got people joking with me as to why i resorted on when its such a non sought after game. My plastics are mint other than 2 minor scratches on 2 pieces. A back glass would be a cool thing to reproduce.

#2025 4 years ago
Quoted from HHaase:

I think pretty much all the plastics are under this now, and just about any plastic they've ever made is back available to order.
I don't think anything has changed so far with playfields though.
-Hans

lets drive them to do a back glass!

#2027 4 years ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Unfortunately, I don't think mine is good enough for a sample.
If it was, I'd have it (and my devil riders outer glass) on the way to them already.
-Hans

I started doing a vector file of mine.

1 week later
#2071 4 years ago

Changing the blue to the teal to match the playfield would be my choice imo.

4 months later
#2647 4 years ago
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

Guess I'm in the minority that likes the original sound set up.

I also like my Lectronamo with the processed sounds. My Sinbad on chimes is enough for me lol

3 months later
#3175 3 years ago

Having one Lectronamo is cool but having 2 is better !

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#3189 3 years ago

The second machine that I just got has a backglass that’s a 9.5/10. Made the change over and it now completes the game rebuild.

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#3191 3 years ago

Yes. I redid the full machine.

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#3206 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I communicated with them a couple of years ago about an error. The one for Seawitch was the wrong color of blue. I advised them, so they made a replacement and it was the wrong color of blue, too. And there will never be one with the correct Seawitch blue.
These guys are hobbyists. I don't see them throwing away all of their inventory and starting over.
Want one for your Seawitch? Here are your color choices. 1 is too light; 1 is too dark. It won't get any better.
[quoted image]
Here is the error. Somebody did not proof read before printing. To be honest, I did not even see this mistake. Someone else pointed it out to me.
I scratch my head and wonder how this happened.
[quoted image]

There are lots more shades of blue available in vinyl and not just those two.

#3207 3 years ago

Or is that printed on a clear sticker you need to install over the full apron ?

1 month later
#3353 3 years ago
Quoted from embryonjohn:

I’m in
[quoted image][quoted image]

I picked one up a few weeks ago also. Finished soldering a new rectifier board for it yesterday. Might see it running this weekend.

4 months later
#4065 3 years ago

Added this stern fairly recently. Fast playing game.

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1 week later
#4159 3 years ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

So, I've been thinking this for a while, and my thought is to redo these machines in MPF (or SkeletonGame) and truly build them from scratch using P3-ROC (or FAST or OPP or whatever) new off the shelf mechs and such. The big thing that is missing from off the shelf is the drop target banks. I've been thinking of trying to design an expandable DT mech in say 1, 3, and 5 unit sizes that could be stacked together to make 2,4,6, 7.. banks and could be configured with or without individual drop coils and my idea that started it all is that targets could be swapped out with ones that have tops (above the playfield part) that are made like classic Stern, Gottieb, Bally, whatever you want. basically a universal replacement drop target mech for any machine you could think of and would be great for homebrew as well.
So far thinking is as far as I've gotten on this plan. Anybody feel free to take my idea and run with it.

Good minds think alike. I have already prototyped something along these lines, however it’s still using some of the old parts. I have started to test new replacement parts that would allow someone with let’s say a stock 5 bank to take it apart and change it to a 3 bank or 4 bank easily. The kits would also allow you to upsize an existing 3 bank to something like a 4 or 5. The owner would still be responsible to buy the new coils, plastic drops, leaf switches as they require them. All metal parts would be part of my kits.

#4161 3 years ago
Quoted from emsrph:

wolffcub do you have pics or more details on this conversion design?
Would your approach help to avoid metal cutting of the F2K unit to yield a memory 5 bank using the parts I have on the left side of this pic? Thx
[quoted image]

Conversation of a style like flight is part of my plans but it’s just down the road. My first hurdle is just the non memory units then I will check. I have a flight 2k also so figuring out what to do should be easy.

#4162 3 years ago
Quoted from emsrph:

wolffcub do you have pics or more details on this conversion design?
Would your approach help to avoid metal cutting of the F2K unit to yield a memory 5 bank using the parts I have on the left side of this pic? Thx
[quoted image]

Is the one you want to convert to exactly like the flight one but with 5 not spaced out ?

2 months later
#4577 3 years ago

Just tossing a feeler out there for some feedback. Is there an interest in 3 bank, 4 bank, 5 bank repo drop target assemblies? I'm talking the metal bodies only and no springs or drop targets.

#4586 3 years ago

Currently have a 3, 4 and 5 bank unit. I do have a memory one on my bench so i will look at that and see what i can do.

#4588 3 years ago

I can easily do the bodies and shafts but the crank arm is currently the only thing im trying to find a decent solution for. I could distribute kits that allow the end user to convert an existing assembly that they would own to a wider or narrower one.

The assembly bodies im doing are from stainless.

#4590 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Stainless would be nice. Conversion kits will help out.
I keep forgetting to ask Steve at PBR if he has the clevis pins that attach the target to the lever. If someone is going for making a larger unit, the clevis pins will need to be acquired; although a close tolerance bolt and locking nut might be able to be employed.
To make the crank arms you would probably need a lathe for the pivot cylinder and a mill to make the arm, and then a TIG welder to put the two together. But these are expensive machines to obtain for a dedicated small-run project.

I have access to all the equipment needed. Its just about making it so its going to give the same end result. I have an idea that will just utilize a larger dia. round stock and i could tig the arm to the end of the drilled stock. A few plug weld is all it needs.

#4591 3 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

I have access to all the equipment needed. Its just about making it so its going to give the same end result. I have an idea that will just utilize a larger dia. round stock and i could tig the arm to the end of the drilled stock. A few plug welds is all it needs.

#4593 3 years ago

Maybe instead of doing full assemblies i could just do the center sections and new rod lengths, that way the end user can take the current assembly apart and reuse the sides, coil stop and bracket and crank arms.

3 months later
#5054 2 years ago
Quoted from msarac:

I assume you used the tape to make it easier to remove lamp sockets? If so, here is an alternative to consider:
https://www.alliedelec.com/product/keystone-electronics/7312/70923083/?keyword=7312
Mounting all the sockets with one of these underneath first, then soldering on the braid, makes it very easy to run exactly where you need and keep short opportunities to a minimum. Plus they are a lot easier to solder on compared to the socket tabs.[quoted image]

My three near future builds are going this way also. I ordered 250 of them to start.

2 months later
#5545 2 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

There are two varieties... Do you need nipples or tabs?

I will take nipples for 500 Alex

3 months later
#5976 2 years ago

The drop assemblies I built for myself for my builds started out as this 5 bank I did. I just substitute one of the different center section sets to make a 3, 4, or 5 banks.

Screenshot 2021-11-18 14.27.25 (resized).pngScreenshot 2021-11-18 14.27.25 (resized).png
3 months later
#6408 2 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Guys, I dont usually post things like this, but I MAY have made an error somewhere
[quoted image]

OOPS! I think the blue and the white need to be moved over one space to the left but you already know that.

#6413 2 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

I don't think so....I didn't even tough that connector before a rebuild so I'm sure I jibered something else up.

You are correct, i just peeked at the picture i referenced that was in my flight 2000 and it has a 9 pin header so that's why its offset one to the left on mine so pin 8 was white. Sorry.

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3 weeks later
#6519 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Here are your pinch points to building a Dragonfist.
1) You need 3 drop target assembles. Bally drop targets of the era will also work with a minor mod.
2) Lockdown bar receivers are now being reproduced but finding a Stern lockdown bar is getting to be a challenge. But in a real pinch, and lockdown bar and receiver would work. You could even make a Williams lock bar and receiver work if you have to.
3) Assuming Mirco get busy with my donor DF play field, you will be able to buy a play field.
4) Finding the correct spinner will be a challenge.
5) BG Resto reproduces the DF back glass.
6) Pinball Life sells the complete flipper assemblies and pop bumper assemblies.
7) CPR sells the plastics.
8a) Getting the dimensions for the cabinet and back box will be easy. I, or many others, can get you the measurements. If you manage to get some parts accumulated then I would measure out my cabs for you----after you have accumulated some parts.
8b) There is already someone building classic Stern cabinets. He was was quoting $750.00, but this was before the pandemic sent lumber prices to the moon.
9) At this time, you would have to be able to build your own wire harness; I would not expect that to change. This means you will be building the cabinet harness, the displays harness, and the play field harness. People are doing this so it can be done, but it all depends on your wiring skills. At it depends if you can interpret Stern's less than optimal blueprints and drawings.
DF would be one of the easier classic Sterns to build.

I know a guy who can possibly restore a dragon playfield lol.

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1 week later
#6572 1 year ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Thanks cottonm4,
I know the left and back are likely the same on all similar Classic Sterns but the ones on the right side varies from game to game. Can you or someone get me the exact measurements on those two? I am making a set out of hardwood.

I also need these sizes please.

1 month later
#6676 1 year ago
Quoted from FantasticPinball:

It has been a while since I’ve had an update.
I picked up the first batch of StarGazer playfields today and they are perfect. Now that each production step has been tested, I can put another batch through.
This has been a considerable challenge because some suppliers/contractors shut down and some said they didn’t want to do it anymore (not profitable). This batch cost me significantly more money than previous batches, but I didn’t have to deal with any rejects.
I will be contacting people who previously asked for these and offering them first chance. Next batch will be prepped for printing this week.
Fantastic
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Please please please squeeze me on that list !

2 months later
#7067 1 year ago

Problem solved, just do what this previous owner did.

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1 month later
#7245 1 year ago
Quoted from CashMoney:

Having a weird issue with my Stern Ali… all insert lights are always on. Game plays as it should no issues, but the inserts lights all stay on constantly.
Any ideas on what could be causing this problem?
I’ve already reseated all of the connectors, nothing looks out of place or misaligned. Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I like the apron cards, where did you get those?

1 month later
#7458 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I did not know you could still buy these cable clamps. All nice and shiny white. No 40 years worth of nicotine staining.
[quoted image]
The source
https://shop.hillmangroup.com/ccrz__ProductList?operation=quickSearch&searchText=clamp&cclcl=en_US

Someone tell him they also still make them in black…..he will lose his mind! Lol

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