(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

5 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

11 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #227 Various gate tips. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #269 Hi quality thoughts from Cotton about inlanes. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #279 Playfield touch up tips. Posted by klr650 (5 years ago)

Post #309 Stern inserts suggestions. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #310 Seawitch gate flap solution. Posted by frunch (5 years ago)

Post #1033 Bally drop targets on the classic stern, even mix and match. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #1958 Star Gazer podcast episode link. Posted by DRDAVE (4 years ago)

Post #2587 Link to 3D printed parts available from HHaase. Posted by HHaase (4 years ago)

Post #2590 Link to 3D printed parts by Swinks, available at Shapeways. Posted by swinks (4 years ago)


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#793 5 years ago

Okay, I need to replace the power cord on Meteor, I have a 3 plug cord saved from a dehumidifier, BUT the red and white wires are NOT red and white on the original, both are black.

I'm not tech savvy when it comes to the electrical stuff, how do I use my meter to read which is positive and negative at the source (where the plug is soldered in).

Thanks, sorry if this was already posted, couldn't find any mention of it.

-Nate

#798 5 years ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

The left blade of the plug is the neutral (white) wire, the right hot (red). Follow the wire from the plug and you can tell which is which at the solder point.

Thanks!!

-Nate

1 week later
#887 5 years ago

Can someone please verify if this wiring is correct into my line filter??? I need to replace the power cord, and I'm not sure the wiring is correct.

I saw Pinsider Vid's posts about replacing power cords, and using his diagram for classic Bally machines, mine looks like the colored wires coming out of the bottom are reversed, and the two (hot and neutral) lines soldered to the right and left tabs look to be reversed also???

powerin (resized).jpgpowerin (resized).jpg
#893 5 years ago

Thanks for the clarification. If I switch the brown and blue wires I should also switch the plug wires also correct?

1 month later
#1240 5 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Just did that for Stars. Most were broken though.
F2K is a great game. Very rewarding multiball and hard as hell to get to.

I just wish there were actually more of a reward for getting multi-ball - would love someone to re-work the rule set.

1 year later
#3455 3 years ago

See below. dup.

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#3457 3 years ago

Help, I have a nicely re-done Meteor with new power board, new CPU, new lamp driver (so I can use LEDs) and I am not getting the correct power readings at any of the test points on the CPU or the power board.

I WAS getting the proper readings on the power board when tested with an external power supply out of the machine.

When I hook it up and flip it on, the measurements are low, there is no sound, no fire-up, and the cpu LEDs sit in the lit position only.

All voltages to CPU are low, you can see my reading on the photos for each test point.

The score displays obviously don't have enough voltage, and only show a glow as in the photo.

No power in flippers or anything, only good voltage is to the GI, head and pf lights all come on.

HELP! This is so frustrating!

I also included photos of the ribbon cable, to make sure I seated these correctly. There are more pins on the board then the cables. I left the left-most pins (first two) exposed. One pin is exposed on the LED board.

I also checked the three box connectors that supply power to the boards, they appear all good, no loose pins, etc.

Thanks, It's crazy to have this not running after all the work I put into it!! Argh.

Oh, I also re-pinned all power board connectors.

-Nate

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#3458 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

The ribbon cable to the sb300 goes from j5 pin 1 to sound board pin 1. The last 2 pins (33/34) are blank. Not going to work with pin 1 empty in j5 - that's the D7 signal, and everything would be shifted over 1.

Thanks, for some reason, my looong text was deleted!!! Added another post below with helpful explanations.

Nate

#3492 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

The ribbon cable to the sb300 goes from j5 pin 1 to sound board pin 1. The last 2 pins (33/34) are blank. Not going to work with pin 1 empty in j5 - that's the D7 signal, and everything would be shifted over 1.

Thanks so much for pointing this out!! I am a little closer......after moving the ribbon cable over, I got seven "bings" followed by some sound like a jet getting ready to take off but sitting idle, and some display/attract mode on the pf lights. The score displays also now how full power. HOWEVER, I cannot start a game, the game does not go through and "click clack" the mechs and reset the drop targets. So something is still "off."

I have a new ROM that is set for free play, so pushing the credit button seems to start a game, but there is no power to anything on the pf, flippers etc. The right flipper seems to be getting a TINY amount of juice and slowly moves forwards as though in extreme slow motion when I press the flipper button in.

Urgh! What's the next steps to try?

Thanks!

Nate

#3493 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Help us out. Tw of your pics are showing upside down. Click on your pic and you will see these blue dots. One let's you add you pic. Another one let's you delete your pic. And the dot in the middle let's you rotate your pin into proper rotation.
Robin is aware of this sideways pic action. No solution AFAIK.

Sorry, I am evidently past a time-frame for editing pics. Sorry two of them are upside down. The only is just the score display, I could re-post the board pic if anyone really thinks it will help.

I don't have time to get on here much, so please excuse my delays in responding - but I AM checking and DO appreciate any help to get this favorite game of mind working!!

-Nate

#3494 3 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

bad ribbon placement on the MPU/Sound board as serious impact, i would start there or start from scratch following "https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#First_Things_First_.28WIP.29" (section 4.8 especially while testing TP progressively as I connect more).
That how i always start my troubleshooting

Thanks, I was using a site talking about Stern/Bally "protocol" when going over an old game called "Flipperwinkle", will check out the link you provided.

-Nate

#3495 3 years ago

I would be down for four replacement kickers, maybe six.

I bought the closest match from Pinball Life and can see already that I'm going to have to "scootch" the entire mech forwards like you mentioned to get the maximum kick out of it once I get things working.

-Nate

2 months later
#3956 3 years ago

How close to the rubber should the rocker arms rest on the slingshots? I am getting ready to install the hardware, I had to plug the old location holes and need to drill new ones. I would only like to do it once, and want to be sure I have a great "snap" when the arm is actuated.

Should the arms be just touching the rubber on the inside? That's what I'm thinking, I just don't want the slingshot to be too strong if that's possible??

Thanks,

Nate

#3958 3 years ago
Quoted from emsrph:

Forward but not so much that they hit the end of the wood slot when it activates.

Thanks, makes sense - and thanks for reminding me about the clearance so the arm doesn't strike the pf!

Nate

#3975 3 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

The e clips on those arms, are they 1/4”?

I need to check, but they are what was on the originals.........thanks........

3 months later
#4494 3 years ago

Has the problem of getting "ghost scoring" when starting a game been discussed?

On my Meteor, he score display racks up a score when the machine is re-setting after the play button is pressed on the coin door!?!

It's very random, and after playing a few games, one out of 6 did not give a phantom score.

Thanks,

Nate

#4501 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

You likely have a drop target switch that is adjusted too close. The software specifically clears switches after a reset so they do not score from switch bouncing, but anything adjusted really close will still be bouncing after the timeout period.
Figuring out which targets were down when you started the game and then score will help you narrow it down. The meteor bank is notorious for this.

Thanks, I was suspecting as much, I'll have to go and look again.......that was the first thing I went after - appreciate the reply.

-Nate

#4503 3 years ago

Another question. On my Meteor the sound is not working correctly. I get weird sounds for the ladder countdown, and NO sound when hitting the spinner shot.

What can I do to diagnose the board before throwing in the towel and purchasing a new sound board replacement?? Can this be a case of bad connections on the feet of the chips soldered to the board, or is it the ribbon cables - or both?!?!

Thanks,

Nate

#4533 3 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Verify the 5101 chips are a matched pair and they are high speed chips. 450ns is slow and could cause sound issues.

Thanks, I will check on them. Haven't logged-in for a while.

I also found that one of the wire-lead ends on the flipper switch was hanging on by a thread and easily came off in my hand once I got under the hood and started checking the spinner connection wiring.

Will replace and hope that solves the problem, it was obviously not carrying current very well if at all.

-Nate

1 week later
#4545 3 years ago

Will this switch be the right replacement for a Meteor spinner switch?

The tab behind the longest leaf where the wire attaches simply "fell off" in my hand when searching for the reason I wasn't getting any sound during a spinner shot.

Thanks,

Nate

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#4564 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Yes that switch should be ok.
Does your MPU board have NVram on it? Known issue with sounds on meteor and nvram that needs a modified rom to fix.

Shit, yes it does.

It's new board though, not the original, so is that still a problem?

Thanks,

Nate

#4565 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You are going to need to add a 3rd tab to your spinner switch for diode hookup.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
If PRR is not stocking blades anymore then you will have to buy a switch and trash it for the tab that you need.

Thanks for the heads-up, I'll see if I can get an extra blade - what a pain.............I might actually have something floating around.......

-Nate

6 months later
#5622 2 years ago

Where exactly are the 5101 chips on this soundboard? Someone mentioned that they should be a matched pair, if they are not 5101 they can cause problems...........Here's a photo of my board. Are there things on this board that I should test?

I have NO spinner sound, and the ladder bonus sounds are wonky. That's what I'm trying to figure out.

Also, what pins/wire colors are the spinner wires? Should I re-pin or........??.......driving me nuts.

Thanks.

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#5631 2 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Your sound board could use a re-cap. Those are the original capacitors.

Thanks, And I'm sorry for not posting the game.
It's Meteor, I do get scoring from spinner.
So I will look at recapping the soundboard, all my other boards are new replacements.
Thanks for the input. Sorry for offending anyone about being a time waster but I thought people enjoyed discussion..
My Nvram is built into the new MPU, so again, I think the soundboard may be the issue.

I appreciate the replies.

Nate

#5635 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I am not offended and I doubt anyone else is either. They only way we learn to keep these beasts running is to ask questions.

Thank you. I actually got confused and thought I was posting on the Meteor owners thread, hence the failure to mention the game. I rarely use my phone to post - hate typing on it and seeing the screen, etc.

Bluespin, yes, I have the original ribbon cables, I was thinking about getting new cables, thanks for adding that.

#5643 2 years ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

I had some really odd sounds on my Meteor too when I first got it. I have an Alltek MPU, and the memory clear fixed my issue. From Alltek's site:
"Here are several reasons to do a memory clear. This is a software routine that we wrote to completely clear out any bad data recorded in the memory registers. So when do you want to do a memory clear; if you have some strange things going on with the displays, switches, or even the solenoids. Easy to do and quick
MPU memory clear
Step 1: Put the game select switch as shown [Picture has switch 1 down, 2-8 are all up] and then turn on the game. After about 2 secs everything is erased including your bookkeeping scores.
Step 2: Reprogram the game select switch to your desired game including free play.
Step 3: Reprogram your bookkeeping high scores and in some cases sound settings."

Thanks, I have a Weebly board so I don't think that is the issue, looks like I may have to hope my original MPU is good, or buy the Alltek in order to play the new Meteor code!

Someone mentioned replacing the caps on my original sound board, mine are original. I'm a novice solderer so not sure I want to do that on my own, but might try it, if I screw it up, Barakandle makes a replacement sound board!!

#5646 2 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

You need to clear the RAM if the sounds are wrong in Meteor. If the RAM bug is happening a new sound board will not fix it.
What version of the MPU do you have?

The board version I have from you says Revision 4, May 2018.
It didn't have a combo ROM, only the ROM with the lesser scoring option was installed as my preferred option.

#5650 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

So, as you look for your issue as to why you are getting bad hits from your pop, keep in mind that there could be another possibility, however remote, that you have a warped pointer on your pop skirt. And if you do, it will not be easy to see.

Thanks so much! I will be sure to check that out - I plan to pull that whole assembly and look closely at it, that is certainly an idea to consider as I am using the original skirt. I also had the idea of spinning the skirt around and re-mounting it, but of course the problem would just move to another area of the pop that way.....................I appreciate all the input - it's really discouraging when things are not working 100%, especially on these Sterns, which rely on mechs working correctly because they are designed so efficiently.

Best, Nate

#5651 2 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

update the ROM to a bug fixed version or get the RAM clear software from my website MPU info, bottom of the page. the "divide by ten" version is probably built around the bugged meteor software. Back in 2018 did not fully understand the bug yet and was still stuffing bugged meteor ROM on boards.
The bugged meteor version does not sanitize a section of RAM used for the sound board at start up. A few other games like Ali and Nine Ball have similar RAM issues, but eventually those two games are able to fix themselves (9 ball after end of a ball, Ali end of game). Background sound in 9 ball is weird until one ball is finished. The "bell" noise in Ali gets odd sounding.

Thanks, so glad for your help - I will definitely do that.....may get the bug fixed ROM - I assume the chips are socketed in and can be easily removed?.......

I don't see the ROM offered on your site, are you selling these?

Thanks again, Nate

#5665 2 years ago

Dumb question, but where do I purchase the "bug fixed" ROM for Meteor we have been discussing so I can see if my sound board is working ok? Barakandl was nice enough to ask and include the chip when I got the CPU board from him. It wouldn't have to be the "divide score by" type, I'm not that good to turn over the score yet...................

I have a six digit display..........

Thanks, Nate

#5676 2 years ago

Okay, I will gladly pay someone to burn me a ROM, I do not have equipment to do so. PM me if you can help out.

Much appreciated in advance......

-Nate

#5678 2 years ago

Thanks, I will go with them!! Appreciate it.

-Nate

#5679 2 years ago

Ok, I contacted hobbyroms, they asked me the following question:

You need to replace 2 eproms.

Rom 1 and Rom 6 if you have the 4 eprom configuration ( 4 x 2716 eproms)

or Rom 2 and Rom 6 if you have the 2 eprom configuration ( 2 x 2732 eproms)

I have an older Barakandl MPU so what does that require (2017 approx)?

Thanks.

#5683 2 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

If it is an older version you probably need either a single 2764 or two 2732s. The people selling ROMs on 2732s for the original MPU should also work fine on the replacement boards without the combo ROM. Just note the silk screen printing on the board about the where pin 1 is on the 2732 ROM as it has four less legs than the IC socket.

Thanks, I have your replacement MPU dated April 2017 in the right hand corner..... so I guess order either the single 2764 or two 2732's correct? Andrew, I take it you do not have these optional chips for sale to correct the sound board issue?

Nate

Screenshot 2021-09-16 211404 (resized).jpgScreenshot 2021-09-16 211404 (resized).jpg

#5685 2 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

I don't want to be an EPROM reseller. I encourage anyone that wants to mess with home ROMs to get an eprom burner and learn how to use it. Since you are experiencing a sound bug using one of my boards though I will offer to reprogram the chip with an updated version. I will probably respond fastest to a contact form on the website.

Thanks, I'll drop you a note through the website.

-Nate

1 month later
#5958 2 years ago

barakandl

Got the new chip, it did indeed solve the sound problem on my Meteor, thanks so much for sending that.

Took a while, but I finally got it installed tonight.

-Nate

1 week later
#5979 2 years ago

Ok, here's another Meteor problem from me - I swear I think this machine is jinxed!!

I put the new game code chip in and the sound works fine, but I hadn't really played many games. After playing it, I discovered that the target bank on the right "3s" is scoring incorrectly. hit the closest to player target down, no score, nothing, it stays down.

Hit either the 2nd or 3rd "3" and the entire bank registers as though all three were down and jumps the ladder up to 3000, or hit the 2nd or 3rd "3" and the entire bank again registers a full three down score and jumps again another 3000. So it's impossible to reach a rocket score that awards a free ball"wow" because the 3 rocket is always easily maxing out after a few hits.

The target bank is fine, wiring is fine, leaf switches fine - it seems like a programming error.

Would this be the new chip that I just installed or could it be the board itself?

Thanks for any input, I'm ready to just buy a new Altek and see what happens...............

UUUUrgh!!

#5988 2 years ago

Thanks everyone, I will test this (possibly tonight - schedule willing) and report back.

Appreciate the help! Nate

#5997 2 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Check the problem switches one at a time and see if the right number comes up. If you are getting the wrong or no numbers there is an easy test to see if the issue is the playfield or circuit board.

ok, so the next step after all the solenoids pulse is that the display (score displays?) should show zero. Mine shows 01.'''

How do you check the switches to see if the right number comes up? When I hit any drop while in this "test mode" the numbers on the score displays do not change.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks N

#6002 2 years ago

Yes I got that according to the "01" there is something about the 1st coin chute that is wrong.......but the number does not appear to fix itself.

I noticed a hack in this area - I will post a photo later. Not sure if possibly this entire coin door area is not right - it seems like my self-test is not performing like I thought it should.

I'll post a photo later, and will look at some video showing how the Stern tests run so I can better understand.

Thanks for your patience, would love to get this thing finally dialed in correctly, I think I'm close.......I may not be able to continue this evening.

-Nate

#6006 2 years ago

Here is my coin door.

There is a piece missing, I found from searching videos that the earlier Sterns had a solenoid that would activate "on" during gameplay to allow coins to be fed, and would sit without power, causing a metal bar to stay in place that would feed the coins back to the coin return if the machine were not powered on.

That same video showed the test sequence, and I definitely do not have the ability to touch a switch and see the corresponding number appear on the score displays, I was watching an older Stern video, Memory Lane, but I'm assuming the diagnostic sequences work similar. As mentioned, I just get that switch test, a number 01 appears on all score displays and the "number of balls" window - but nothing changes that display, not touching a switch or anything else......

I have what I suppose are the two wires that have been soldered to a solenoid plastic "plate" with a diode that replaces the solenoid that was mounted to the side of the coin door.

I can probably find a coin door photo and see what's going on.

Once I get back to my machine, I will also look for the start and slam switches making any contact with the metal coin door.

This could be the cause of my 3 target problem?? The switches on that bank are definitely making contact. The closest 3 is still not registering at all.

Thank you again everyone, getting closer......

-Nate

Coin_door (resized).jpgCoin_door (resized).jpg
#6021 2 years ago

Cotton and Mathazar:

Thanks for your comments - you are correct about the wire colors - I'm thinking this entire coin door is not quite right.

Also, do all Meteors have a 2 button test mech? I see on older machines it is just the one.

I may ask for a good photo of a correct coin door wiring, unless I find one already online.

Haven't had a chance to tinker, but will return with report!

Thank you again for your patience and helpful comments.

-Nate

1 week later
#6074 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

A photo can be had easily enough. But how about we show you how to look at the blue prints and teach you how to wire it up without a pic?

I would love that, I have actually looked at the coin door blue-print and have found the wire colors referenced to the various parts. I'll post my impressions and you can tell me if I'm on the right track or totally out in left-field.

Thanks for your patience everyone..........see below.

-Nate

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#6076 2 years ago

cottonm4

Thanks so much for this, I will take time to study it and understand. I hope others can learn also as I am doing, please excuse me "hogging" the thread with this.

Give me a few days to go over my game and the schematic again - I really appreciate you taking the time to post this!!

-Nate

2 weeks later
#6129 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Thank you. My pics are not the best; If you have problem with understanding something, just ask, or send a PM. If you want to talk it out and test your learning progress, I'll listen. I learned a lot myself just by writing it up---many times that is my motivation. I write about it so I can understand it better.
If others get annoyed with you/us "hogging" the thread we can go PM. But I prefer open discussion. Hoping always that someone will tell I am if I am wrong. I do not wish to lead anyone astray.
BTY: Did you get your pop bumper fixed?

Sorry for the long wait, I don't have a lot of "pin time" recently - hopefully with some holiday time-off I can get into this and fixed.

Yes, I did correct the pop bumper, I fiddled with the plastic "spoon" to get more response out of it. A relatively simple problem that'll just take some tweaking.

I have followed your instruction so far, and it makes 100% sense to me. So please add your next steps - I really appreciate your effort to teach me this, and I am learning in the process!! Always a plus.

-Nate

#6131 2 years ago

cottonm4

Great, I will sit down and look at this closely tomorrow and let you know.

Thanks again!

-Nate

#6133 2 years ago

Finally able to sit down and examine my coin door. It is definitely "hacked" and I hope I can get it wired back correctly.

I do have a two-button audit switch, the one closest to the coin door is a "clear" switch, I assume for high-scores.

Cottonm4: I put comments onto each photo, following your latest post of wiring and where they feed to and from.

My coin door lockout mechanism is gone, but I am guessing that as long as the correct wires are attached with the diode in place, the circuit should still be working correctly. Is that a correct assumption?

I have also disabled my knocker and have never plugged it in, from my "learning in progress" this will seem to interrupt a circuit. So I want to ask, is this the possible "interruption" that is making my "3" targets on Meteor react wrong?

There is some type of over-heating danger there at the knocker, how big of a concern is that if a fuse isn't installed at that location?

The last photo is a shot of all coin door wires going into the plug, which leads to the board in the backbox.

I am thinking I need to disassemble the wiring at the door and re-solder everything. BUT I want to make sure I understand why someone wired the door like they did. Was this simply because they didn't want the middle coin slot to be active??

I also have a question about the three tabs beneath each coin slot, since there are two wired attached to the coin slot, which of the three tabs are used?

Thanks,

Nate

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#6135 2 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

No that's solenoid not switches no direct connection between them.
Did I miss the part where you did the really simple test of going into switch test and disconnected the door to test the three drop switch?
Yes you need to fix your coin door as well but at least if you isolated it you would know it's something on the door.

Thanks for the input about the knocker - my switch test is not working.

How would I disconnect the door and then test the three drop switch? Thanks.

It's possible that the switch is bad, but I have other issues. The closest "3" target doesn't register, the second and third targets, once hit (either one) scores as though all three targets were down on the rocket ladder and then reset.

- Nate

#6138 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Pic #3 is not correct. Y-R also feeds the memory clear switch.

There are two yellow/red wires going to the memory clear switch as well as the test switch so I was thinking that is correct. It looks like one of those two Y-R acts like a "jumper" as it is a short wire soldered to both posts on the memory clear switch and test switch as well. (See blue arrow indicating that wire). How is that wired otherwise? Thanks.

Quoted from cottonm4:

start cutting wire ties so I can physically touch, few, and chase the wire.

Yes, I have cut all the ties off so I can see what's going on. When I check continuity, am I just touching the end of the blue wire and grounding the probe? Same with location A4-J3-9? Thanks.

Quoted from cottonm4:

And someone has wire nutted the 2 reds and a blue together.

Right, those three wires look like the ones that "should" be attached to chute 1.
I will trace the wires and see where they are on the board/plug end.

Quoted from cottonm4:

You can also start checking at the coin door connector since it is sitting at your right hand.

I did look at that connector, the weird thing is that, ultimately, the correct colors are connected to that plug, there is no black wire going into the plug.

Yep, I've had this thing torn apart, so can easily remove the door. The solder job is horrible, so will redo the solder to the coin chutes. Will also be mindful not to cut anything too short. From what I am seeing it looks like since the second coin slot wasn't hooked-up at all, the black wire seems to be running to slot 1 and slot 3.

Now that I understand that the r/y wire is the "juice" going to all 3, I guess that's why those wires were fed into the caps, the three capped wires make sure the juice to that entire coin door circuit is good. That white wire is running from the memory clear switch, why is that one attached to the coin slots at all??

So two r/y wires should be feeding each coin chute along with the corresponding color wire for each chute.

Slowly understanding this.

Thanks again for the tutorial - enjoying learning this.

Nate

20211221_174440 (resized).jpg20211221_174440 (resized).jpg
#6144 2 years ago

cottonm4: Ok, I'm going in there, sorting out the wires, testing the continuity and re-soldering everything correctly.

After that, I'll power on and hope everything is working - maybe the switch test will then work as it should.

This all stems from the horrible scoring mess at the "3" bank targets for this Meteor!!! How often do those drop-target switches go bad?? I wouldn't think too often.

-Nate

#6152 2 years ago

Special shout-out to cottonm4 - but to all you guys/girls on this thread also!!

cottonm4 - Thanks for helping me out so much and helping me learn the electronics side a little better........

Happy Holidays to all of you!!

Hope the New Year brings new pinball joy and much less pinball headache!!!

#6171 2 years ago

Got the coin door wiring all put back in place, no idea why there were two wires additional along with the wire nut mess.

Unfortuately, the "3" targets (on Meteor) are still not operating correctly. I checked the schematics and the wiring is correct. I noticed that a heavier metal wire was used to carry current from the power source across all three switches - instead of having the actual wire providing power running to each switch, was that standard for Stern?

I will run another switch test, but that was not working correctly last time I tried to see if any switches were closed. Activating a switch would not indicate the switch number on the display........

I might also go ahead and re-solder the entire "3" switch bank to make sure all connections are solid.

Urgh.

Nate

#6174 2 years ago

Meteor is now working!

After all the poking around, I noticed that the drop target mech looked a little "skewed." That may have been the problem all along, the bottom plate can go one of two ways and will "seem" correct, but just that little bit of a spacing difference really caused havoc.

Glad to start the New Year with a working pin. Now for the other three..............

-Nate

#6176 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Feels good when you learn new things and fix them, don't it?

Very much so!!

1 week later
#6182 2 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Is there anyplace online or on Pinside where all the classic Stern upgrades are listed off with how-tos?
I know that the knocker should get a fuse, but not what rating, and I know there are a few other safeguards like that which are supposed to be followed on these machines, but haven't seen them compiled in one place before.

"In Bally/stern Games add a 1.25a sb fuse to the knocker and chime box. Then you should never have burnt up coils or ... circuit boards. I think it was a pretty major oversight not having dc side fuse on those .."

"Get some of those fuse holders with a screw in the middle.

Find the solenoid bus wire (yellow i think in all games, at least bally). Put the fuse in series with the bus wire going to coils with no DC side fuse (knocker and chimes, if present). It can go anywhere, probably near the coil makes the most sense. If the game has a chime box there will be one bus wire going to the chime box for all chime coils, add a fuse in series with on that bus wire near the chime box.

1a sb for the knocker and 1.25a sb for the chimes is probably good choice considering that is what is used on the playfield coils that has a DC side fuse."

1 year later
#9750 5 months ago

Coil stop for Stars drop targets?

The coil stops have a rivet holding the "head" into place, the rivet has worn and the head part on the "L" bracket moves freely, almost to the point where you could remove it if you pulled hard enough.

Looks like this part is hard to replace, anyone ever fix this problem?

Also, how much of a "problem" is this loose stop, if any.

Thanks, Nate

#9762 5 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Got a picture ?

Sure. See below:

20231014_203406 (resized).jpg20231014_203406 (resized).jpg20231014_203417 (resized).jpg20231014_203417 (resized).jpg20231014_203428 (resized).jpg20231014_203428 (resized).jpg
#9768 5 months ago

Coil stop.

Thanks for all the replies, I didn't think this size stop was readily available........this is that larger size that handles those ridiculously big coils used on the Stern drop target banks.

I love the idea of just gluing it in place, might try that first, I have clamps.

Thought about the chisel idea, it just looks like there is barely any "excess" to have it mushroom over the seam successfully.

Currently rehabbing my Stars, will be posting pics.

Best, Nate

#9778 5 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

I tried gluing one with brown gorilla glue and it didn’t work but mine was completely broken free from its mounting hole. Quench suggested drilling out the top and tapping it to install a brass screw and washer in order to hold it in place. Never got around to doing that. Just robbed the stop off a Bally mech I had in my stash. (I did drill it out and tap it, but I kept forgetting to pick up a brass screw/washer when I’d be at the Home Depot).
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/187#post-7711797

Is that size coil stop available anymore? I'm going to try the glue, but would like to replace eventually. Do these loose stops affect gameplay at all?

#9810 5 months ago

It looks like the gluing option for my loose coil stops worked! Thanks everyone for their suggestions. I used 2-part epoxy, clamped, and let sit for a good 24hrs. Seems to be tight, and I doubt this part gets much "movement" so hopefully it will continue to hold.

-Nate

#9811 5 months ago

Anyone know if this slingshot assy is good choice to replace old Stars assy?

Product ID: 500-5849-00
Data East/Sega/Stern Slingshot Assembly

Thanks, Nate

#9816 5 months ago

"What parts are you missing/worn the entire assembly?"

Mainly the arms, one is fine, but the other one, the riveted prong (where I drew the arrow) is loose and not sure if I can mushroom the end to tighten it?? I can use all the other asy parts with new linkages, coil sleeve, and other parts that naturally wear.

This arm also has a metal arm extension from the side (where I drew the second arrow), whereas the other does not have this, so are these pieces original or cobbled together from another machine?

I can re-use almost all the other parts, was going to use Williams arms (the ones with the white ends) which I did use on my Meteor, but this extra metal "arm" on the side has me wondering if this is necessary to activate a switch or something? I would have to look back at my disassembly photos.

Thanks for any suggestions!

-Nate

20231021_161122 (resized).jpg20231021_161122 (resized).jpg

#9817 5 months ago
Quoted from RustyLizard:

I am repainting a cabinet for Stars. What do you all think of an alternative color scheme? I think a yellow cabinet really makes the backglass pop.
[quoted image]

I would try a dark blue or red, not a fan of the yellow........imo......

#9821 5 months ago

Thanks everyone, again, for some really helpful comments, I will try the hammer/anvil trick on the wobbly armature, if that doesn't work I may just go ahead and buy some replacement arms since we know that one arm is not "stock" for this particular machine.

This is the oldest Stern I have been refurbishing, so finding part numbers and acceptable replacements is a challenge!! Can't imagine trying to source parts for old EM machines! Yikes.

-Nate

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