(Topic ID: 225496)
Linked Games
Ali
Stern Electronics, 1980-
Big Game
Stern Electronics, 1980
-
Catacomb
Stern Electronics, 1981
-
Cheetah
Stern Electronics, 1980
-
Cosmic Princess
Stern Electronics, 1979
-
Dracula
Stern Electronics, 1979
-
Dragonfist
Stern Electronics, 1981
-
Flight 2000
Stern Electronics, 1980
There are more than 8 games linked to this topic.
Click here to show all linked games
Click here to show all linked games
Topic Gallery
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pinash.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from hisokajp:no head? definitely not the most sought after game though it is fun.
Got the head, just didn't post pics. It's a complete game.
Quoted from play_pinball:It's a GREAT game and does not come up very often. I think the longest-standing pin in my collection, over 20 years, and I have no plans to ever let it go. Feel like it's starting to get more attention with the arduino code update but I haven't done that since I think the original code is spot on.
I've never seen one pop up for sale, so I had to jump on it. It's unfortunate the condition wasn't as good as described, but oh well. I am VERY excited for the Arduino mod, but I've got plenty of must do's before I get to that.
Quoted from DudeRegular:Not working I would say in the 800-1000 range these days. Hopefully just a rectifier or MPU gets you up and running.
Thanks for the input. It might be something minor, but I didn't even really want to power it up untill I go through all the pinwiki initial steps.
Saw your post, your machine looks awesome. Redoing the cab would be a fun project in itself, but I'd have to wait for warmer weather. Maybe come spring time. For now I am going to work my way through the boards recapping / repining / etc.
2 weeks later
How is the lockdown bar lever supposed to function? My lever swings beyond the lock/un-lock positions and rotates a full 180deg. It looks pretty mangled, so I'm not sure if tabs are warn down, or if this was the intended operation. Thanks!
Quoted from cottonm4:Can you show some pics? Yours might be able to be repaired. Place the lockdown receiver upside down on a table. Get some pics of the handle and the piece the handle is supposed to move.
To clarify, the arm still engages the sliding portion of the receiver, and can unlock/lock. My question was, is it supposed to keep rotating until the lever hits the receiver? Or should it stop just after the lock/unlock sliding action?
Getting ready to do a flipper rebuild on my Trident. Does anyone have a kit and/or any part substitutions they prefer? If not, I'll be going with the pinballlife rebuild kit. And does anyone have a good source for the type 1 bushings?
And finally, does anyone have an original white bat they will part with? I need a replacement, and the bright brand new white would visually stick out too much.
4 weeks later
Quoted from greatwichjohn:Trying to get new target banks made. Anyone who has made their own please contact me. Looking to see if people have cad files & list of parts available. Looking to see if metal can be cut locally & assembled here. Hope to see new target banks in the $100 - $200 US each.
I have the parts list / BOM for a three bank typed up in Excel. When I get in front of that computer this evening, I can upload to a Google drive. There's only a few differences between that and the 4 bank, so it should be a good starting point.
I don't have a bank available to measure/draw into cad, but will slowly chip away when I get my hands on one.
1 week later
Quoted from slochar:No it means the drawing is wrong.
Is the 3 bank pic the correct arrangement?
1 week later
Quoted from nogoodnames222:Dick's code adds a ton of life to Galaxy, really been enjoying it. For anyone unaware, he's done new software for a few Sterns: Stars, Meteor, Trident, and now Galaxy (as well as a few Bally's). You can put the hardware together for ~100 bucks or buy a plug-n-play kit through a couple different guys on here, it's completely reversible and you can flip a switch to go back to the original code. If you've got a game he's done an update for, highly recommend trying it out.
I have some blank pcbs on the slow boat from China if anyone wants to install this on their game. Board assembly looks very easy (headers and a resistor). PM me!
Quoted from sethbenjamin:Is there anyplace online or on Pinside where all the classic Stern upgrades are listed off with how-tos?
I know that the knocker should get a fuse, but not what rating, and I know there are a few other safeguards like that which are supposed to be followed on these machines, but haven't seen them compiled in one place before.
Pinwiki has all the board upgrades
2 weeks later
Does anyone know the correct pcb standoffs for the SB-100 (Trident if that matters)? I've ordered a few and none of them fit correctly. Thanks!
Quoted from bluespin:Did you try Pinball Life?
https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html
PL has two, M-1829-1 and M-1829-2. Unfortunately with their expensive shipping, I've been waiting until I have a larger order before trying their offerings.
Quoted from play_pinball:I’ll throw a few in an envelope and send them your way tomorrow Pinash
Helping me out yet again! Thanks so much, its very appreciated!
Quoted from Mathazar:More Power!
Mad_Dog_Coin_Op suggested that my pin might be set up for 115v instead of 120v and perhaps the extra 5v would help reset the target bank better/higher/faster/etc. His guess that the transformer might be wired for 115v was right! And I never noticed! I rewired it for 120v. While that didn't resolve the drop target issue, there was an unexpected benefit from doing that...the slings and pop bumper seem a bit more "peppy" now.
Does the 5v make that much difference? Around here your house voltage can be +/-5 depending how far you are from the street transformer.
3 weeks later
Quoted from swampfire:I have some Yoppcicles on the way to replace the flaky feature lamp sockets.
How do the classic Sterns handle LEDs in the insert lamps? Do they require any of the addon boards?
Quoted from swampfire:I added the Seigecraft boards. The nice thing about Yoppcicles is that I’ll be able to remove those, since they have the resistor and LED on one board.
Keep us posted how the yopps go
Quoted from GoldenOreos:I've had this issue a few times with flipper bats.i ended up using the set screws that have points on the end so when u tighten it down it pushes the point into the shaft. works nice for older bats that have divets from over tightening over the years
[quoted image]
Great suggestion, 10-32 thread I believe.
3 weeks later
Quoted from play_pinball:Well shut me up! Curious what your updates to Trident will be. I love that game and I’m not terribly interested in the 2020 code update (though I absolutely appreciate what Dick is doing with those. I think I’m just too partial to the original code. I do certainly love the burst of energy and interest they’re driving toward games like Trident).
Hoping to do a playfield swap on my Trident soon. It needs some rewiring and a full tear down before it’s playable again.
One cool thing about the 2020 code is that you can switch back and fourth pretty easy.
3 months later
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
York, SC
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pinash.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
