Ali
Stern Electronics, 1980
Big Game
Stern Electronics, 1980
Catacomb
Stern Electronics, 1981
Cheetah
Stern Electronics, 1980
Cosmic Princess
Stern Electronics, 1979
Dracula
Stern Electronics, 1979
Dragonfist
Stern Electronics, 1981
Flight 2000
Stern Electronics, 1980You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider neal_w.
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Time to join the club. I have owned Stars for a year and half and still havent knocked off the GC of 631K set on it at Pinvasion V, but have been close a bunch of times.
If you need them, CPR just got Stars mirrored backglasses in stock:
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/stars-glass/
Quoted from dothedoo:Replaced a bunch of lamp sockets yesterday.
Some of my GI LED bulbs on Stars would flicker and go on/off as the ball bounced around so I started replacing sockets also. Turns out that all the old LED bulbs just suck and flicker madly when I tap on them, even in a new socket. It was the old LED bulbs, not the sockets in my case.
Quoted from RoyGBev:But vandals will unscrew them and remove the rails and the glass and...!
Security torx screws would work.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:What pitch is, "normal" for a STARS and/or this era of Stern pins in general?
6.5 is correct for pins of that era and other eras. I have played Stars that were not so steep and set floaty was fun also.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:The STARS I have is pitched up further than any other pin I've played, to the point the ball barely makes it to the back of the playfield. What do you guys recommend?
Just did a flipper rebuild on my Stars and learned the EOS switch setting makes a big difference in flipper strength. The first flipper I rebuilt was weak compared to the other until I bent the new EOS to open right at the of travel. Now both are done and set to open just at the end of travel and are quite strong, and perhaps too strong since the drops brick more than ever.
Is there a spec or rule of thumb for the EOS gap at the end of travel?
Quoted from slochar:I always take the copper coil stops from pops and slings and use them on my flippers since they're hardly worn at all, you can put the flipper ones back in them and since the pulse is so short on those solenoids they don't really go full stroke anyway.
Swapping the coil stop with the sling or pop is a great idea. I will remember that one.
I need to take some video and gather some more data about the bricking with the flat top drops. I have been reading the tips and the rubber does not look too close and I have the drop assemblies moved forward. A while back I removed and cleaned up the assemblies and rubbed a bit of bar soap on the sliding surfaces to get them to reset reliably.
Quoted from cottonm4:Stern produce a pinball machine titled " Pinball".
Yup, fun pin. Had a good game of "pinball by stern" EM last night at day 1 of the Fellowship of the Silverball big Upstate Weekend tourney in SC.
EM and SS links...
https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/pinball-stern
https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/pinball
The EM room at day 1 hosts house..
Quoted from Roberto_tron:Hello, I'm new to the owning older machines game and am looking for some help. I have a stern Big Game, and my issue is whenever the game is played the sound will eventually go quiet then off.
Also, if the game is left on and in attract mode it eventually will stop with the lights how and make a buzzing sound with only one light lit.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like it is failing when things warm up. That makes me think of possible issues in the following order:
-Failing power supply.
-Poor connection.
-Failing component or solder connection (referred to as a cold solder joint).
There is a pinwiki for classic Sterns-
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally/Stern
I would start in the section on rectifier test point values when the pin is not working-
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally/Stern#Rectifier_Board_Test_Point_Values
Quoted from cottonm4:My Catacomb has the ball jump over the flipper on occasion. IIRC, some old timers here talked about how the Sterns use to have balls jump over the flippers in the arcades. You could make some sort of dam to bond to the flipper to block the the ball jump. Or just live with it.
When swatting at the ball, it picks up speed and if the player swats it away again it comes back even faster and can sometimes deflect over the flipper. In tournaments when playing against young inexperienced opponents I frequently see this and the player yells 'I hate this machine'. I shrug and say tuff luck kid. 
If you play under control and let the ball dead bounce to the opposite flipper you can slow the ball down and shoot more accurately for higher scores and minimize airballs and brick shot drains.
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Tempe, AZ