Ali
Stern Electronics, 1980
Big Game
Stern Electronics, 1980
Catacomb
Stern Electronics, 1981
Cheetah
Stern Electronics, 1980
Cosmic Princess
Stern Electronics, 1979
Dracula
Stern Electronics, 1979
Dragonfist
Stern Electronics, 1981
Flight 2000
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Quoted from play_pinball:Well this is an unexpected bummer. I bought a shooter rod from Pinball Life and didn't realize Stern shooter rods are longer than the repros. Not long enough to reach the ball.[quoted image]
Ever find a good solution?
I could weld but looking for something a bit more elegant, might machine a hole in the rod center and thread for a cap screw the same diameter as the rod.
Quoted from play_pinball:Actually, I think so! I just ordered one of these last week but I have not tested it yet. I don’t see any reason why it would not work though.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-5920
I'll have to accost one of my Gottlieb EM's and see it is works.
Odd this topic is NOT showing up in my favorites for some reason, this post is a test.
Yup, even when marked as a favorite and with a post bookmarked it refuses to display.
It turns up in search and pinsider pulse though.
Weird.
Quoted from play_pinball:Yep, I swear I checked his site and it said out of stock but I think I misread. Looks like he has them, and per usual, cheaper. Oh well it was free shipping over $100 and my order ended up being like $100.29
Shows out of stock.
I had one in my cart, now gone.
Quick question for Stern owners- Does any Stern have lane shift and if so on both left and right flipper buttons? I looked up the schematic for Quicksilver and didn't see anything.
Quoted from GoldenOreos:Quicksilver doesnt have lane change.
I figured that from looking at the schematic, what about other titles?
Quoted from A_Bord:None that I can think of and I know classic Sterns pretty well excluding Viper and Lightning.
Thank you sir.
I have to wire my universal Bally/Stern cabinet for lane shift. On Bally it seems to be right flipper only. The only game which uses left flipper switch is Mr and Mrs Pacman and Elektra which I have no interest in installing.
It seemed prudent to check if any of the Stern titles I might be running in the future had the feature so I can do the wiring.
Quoted from slochar:Viper does for the turret although they might be separate buttons. Catacomb does for the bank swap at bagatelle although I'd be pretty impressed if you add that. Free fall does for the matrix change if you have it set that way. It's possible that the switches are on the flipper itself rather than the cab though, no longer have these titles to check.
Thank you, none of those titles are on possible want list so safe for the moment.
Quoted from cottonm4:With 7 pins, to remove a play field glass involves slipping and sliding 2 pins around to make room for the glass to slide out.
If you Jack up the front of the cab high enough the glass will clear obstructions. 
Quoted from semicolin:I'm an electrician and I cut 6-32 machine screws down to size with a $12 pair of wire strippers.
I do the same.
Thread them in, snip!
Quoted from Quench:The thickness of the metal E core is probably the same, hence the Y-axis is almost the same.
It's dependent on the type and number of flipper coils. Meteor and Ali had standard spec 25-500/34-4500 flipper coils. The upper coil on Meteor has a resistor in series to reduce current surge and power.
Galaxy had higher power flipper coils but only two of them.
Big Game had a mixture of standard and higher power flipper coils but there are four of them so potential for high current surge when all four flippers activate at the same time.
I just picked up a Seawitch this week and it's been fitted with four standard 25-500/34-4500 flipper coils. I've replaced the 7A slow blow fuse with a fast blow as a slow blow seems like overfusing to me.
I thought Seawitch was 475 & 600 on the coils?
Quoted from cottonm4:I have some of those wire strippers that also cut screws, too.
Try doing that when you are cutting 40 to 50 screws down to the same length.
Every single one on Seawitch was done that way. I buy a box of 50 3" machine screws and cut them to length. I ALWAYS have the right size when they can all be cut down.
Quoted from cottonm4:You have every tool of convenience and experimenting laying at your fingertips. I"m surprised that the zip-zip of a cutoff wheel does not jazz you
Oh I wish!!
Been Jonesing for a metal lathe for years now but can't justify the expense vs use. I only purchased a vinyl cutter and 3d printer because projected expenditures for related product was greater than the price of the tools.
I make two sets of stencils for a cabinet the vinyl cutter is paid for already.
Already have a lot of tools on hand due to my work and other hobbies, they just happen to dovetail nicely with pinball restorations.
I one time I worked on cars for a living, raced cars, restored cars, developed turbocharger systems, programmed and dynoed engines, ran an RV repair shop, built aerial lift trucks, fixed John Deere tractors, built movie props, collected and repaired 3Dfx prototype graphics hardware and now I'm fooling about with pinball machines while director of environmental services in a medical facility.
And I can make a wicked New York style cheesecake.
Quoted from sethbenjamin:Ok, next question…
EVERY insert on these machines has both moved and sunken. I’m no stranger to replacing inserts, and I’m not a fan of eye-dropper if clear coat to level them out. It’s just not a good option when you have a lot of this going on.
On the other hand, while I can find faceted inserts all over Pinball Life, nobody seems to have non-faceted inserts in all the sizes/colors needed for a Lightning. Does anyone know of a source for the stock style inserts?
I’m not a purist, so I would go with faceted if it came to that. Would sooner swap all the inserts to the same style than end up with a mix, honestly.
[quoted image]
When I did Flash Gordon I had to source from Marco and Pinball life.
Quoted from bigguybbr:So your inlane guide is in 2 parts? I’m wondering if that was a previous hack. The pictures I’ve found on here and ipdb only show it as a single piece unless I’m misunderstanding what you are describing.
If you want to remake it, you might need to go the route of custom bending your own replacements. Otherwise I would go back to using the full length guides and fill in the extra holes.
Thread on making guides: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tutorial-for-marco-s-wire-bending-jig
[quoted image]
I have seen one other example with inlane guides in 2 pieces on this title, might have been an early change.
Quoted from djblouw:My question is: can you drive two coils from the same transistor?
Depends on the amp rating of the transistor.
Quoted from SR230CC:Anyone running custom Seawitch code on a Weebly. Any recommendations on a good source to burn the chip?
If you need one, I can help.
Quoted from Mathazar:cottonm4 - maybe this one is for you?
I'm at a loss and so beyond frustrated that this is starting to get comical for me. Just when I think I've got my drop target issues squared away on my Meteor restoration, another one pops up. I won't go into the details of all the drop target problems I've had to date and how I got around them - instead I'll just describe the current, and hopefully last, issue in front of me: The "M" target in the METEOR bank falls after an all-target-bank reset (all four drop target banks reset at once), the kind of reset that is done at the start of a new ball or new game.
The 111/222/333 banks work perfectly. No falling targets, no bricking. These banks are a slightly different design (non-memory, no coils, no bracket fingers for resting targets) than the METEOR bank.
With the METEOR bank on my bench, resetting the drop targets manually (as quickly as I can to mimic the coil reset) does not result in a fallen target 50 out of 50 times.
With the METEOR bank in the game, I can down all the targets 1 by 1 causing a reset to occur repeatedly over and over as depicted in the video - NO fallen targets.
However, after a ball drain (or start of game) where all four of the drop target banks get issued a reset at once, the "M" in the METEOR bank falls most of the time (and in the case of the video I recorded, the "R" also fell!). Since I'm running on the 2021 Meteor code, what you're seeing in the video at the start of a new ball are all the drop banks getting reset including the METEOR bank for the Skill Shot, the "M" target falling on its own to inadvertently complete the Skill Shot before the ball is launched, and the drop bank getting reset on its own with the "M" usually staying up after that and all subsquent downings until the start of the next ball.
Here's a video of what I'm talking about:
The sequence ("M" falls only when all of the target banks are reset at once but not when just the METEOR bank is reset) suggests that some sort of vibration is occurring when all the banks are reset at once causing the suspect "M" target to fall on its own. When the METEOR bank is reset on its own, the "M" rarely falls on its own. And on other rare occasions, the "R" target also falls down.
The METEOR bank has coils for memory so the hardware configuration is a bit different than the other three target banks (111/222/333) that never fail. One big difference is that in the METEOR bank, the drop targets rest on the coil bracket "finger" and not the playfield or target bank ledge.
Here's what I've done to try to find the culprit:
- I tried three different targets in the "M" spot (original tombstone, new Swinks tombstone, and new PBL flattop). All do the same.
- I tried two new springs and the original, older less-tensioned spring on the target.
- I swapped the memory coil bracket (which has the "finger" that the target rests on), bracket spring, target spring, and target itself from a "working" position (the first "E") with the "M". The falling target issue stayed with the "M" position and did not move with the target/spring/coil/bracket to the "E" position suggesting there is nothing wrong with the target, springs, coil or coil bracket.
- I tried putting a "riser" piece of metal on the reset bar that forces the drop targets to go higher on reset. With the drop target being forced to a higher position upon a bank reset, theoretically it gives more opportunity for the coil bracket finger to "spring" into position and catch the target on the way down from the reset.
- I moved the entire bank hardware back about an eighth of an inch on the playfield, filling in the old holes and drilling new ones, to provide more clearance between the target face and the edge of the playfield cutout. It wasn't until after I moved it that I realized the clearance/closeness of the target face to that playfield edge probably doesn't matter for this specific memory target bank because what's closest to the target face is the top, silver rod that is part of the bank assembly. In other words, the target can never come into contact with the front of that playfield cutout edge, but the target faces DO touch that silver rod. Pretty sure that's by design - targets that do not fall on their own also touch that silver rod. It's the same on my Eight Ball Deluxe - that 7 drop target bank (with memory and the same kind of target coil/bracket) also has that silver rod and the target faces are touching it in the up position
[quoted image]
I'm starting to run out of ideas - I've been working on this one problem for about a week, a couple of hours or so per night. Would appreciate any other ideas that folks may have![quoted image][quoted image]
If you watch the video again, the M is clearly jumping higher than the others on reset. I'd have a close look at the reset arm/mech. Some slop or twisting there maybe causing the issue.
Quoted from Pinash:Does the 5v make that much difference? Around here your house voltage can be +/-5 depending how far you are from the street transformer.
It really should not for bank reset.
Quoted from cottonm4:I just looked on IPDB.org. You would have to do a lot of mod work to make WF harness work on a Stars, IMO. Stars look to have more wiring so you would probably need to add a lot of new wire. But it could be done.
It can be done.
Quoted from jdoz2:Resetting the memory worked, thanks!
I get the error when I swap games.
Quoted from lowbeau67:What's a working sdb 300 worth?
Or a good selling price?
Thx
New you can buy one for $100, I have seen them listed used for sale for $50.
Quoted from cottonm4:Gonna build a Seawitch from scratch? That will be $600.00 for drop target assemblies.
Been there, done that. I used Bally drops and modified them to Stern spec.
Quoted from Quench:I've seen this elsewhere on non-pinball products, the paint on the screws is used to stop them loosening from vibration, kinda like surface loctite.
In automotive applications it's a visual indication the fastener was tightened.
Quoted from izzy:Which is the best power supply board? X-Pin, Alltek or Big Daddy? For a Meteor.
thx
I build my own with Andrews kits.
Quoted from bluespin:If you can’t find a Meteor, consider a Galaxy or other mpu200 pin as it will have cosmetic differences from the mpu100 pins; the correct coin door, slot lockdown bar and more powerful 16B-6 transformer.
The mpu100 pins have coin doors with the coin eject button and coin slots in different locations than the mpu200 pins. Stern used screw type lockdown bars through part of the Hot Hand run, then went to the slot type lockdown bar. The mpu100 pins had the smaller lower power 16B-3 transformer, and the mpu200 pins had the larger stronger 16B-6 transformers. I think all of the mpu100 pins had the transformers in the head, but the mpu200 pins have the transformers in the bottom cabinet.
Stargazer would work just fine with the smaller transformer. I used one on Seawitch with 4 flippers and it performed flawless at Pinfest.
500 plus games in 48 hours!
Quoted from SR230CC:I also used a smaller transformer and my Seawitch plays great. Wow what a great game. Definitely one of my favorite early SS.
So far between Seawitch and Quicksilver I'm enjoying Seawitch more. It just has more flow to it which is more to my taste.
Quoted from cottonm4:Thank you. I understand. Hard callouts are always better.
I hang around for those times a guy with a ruler doesn't come around
I cut my for Quicksilver based on the same points you mentioned and eyeballing a few pictures found online.
As a wiseman once said; its pinball, close enough! I did go for a solid rail on the right side though and made a small notch for my homemade stainless guides.
b3298b5673ff24a8869997c54a90320b8f897f86 (resized).jpgd51d0fed5e0d84b527697bf7e2402e95522f29d6 (resized).jpgQuoted from cottonm4:I really have not closed off the arch areas in the back as you have done. I wonder if some "cooling" holes needs to be drilled in the rails in the arch areas as a means for avoiding too much heat on the arch plastics. While not as pronounced as incandescents LEDS do produce heat. The right side has the large tooling hole to provide some heat relief, but the left side is completely closed off.
Plenty of non stern titles without issues and I'm full led aside from the poppers.
Quoted from BorgDog:Homepin made a replacement Bally transformer that I think would work, but I don't see for sale anywhere at the moment.
I was thinking about trying to find an alternative using switching power supplies like new machines and led displays so no need for high voltage. I'm probably over simplifying or missing something, but I see 43VDC (coils), 5.4VDC(controlled lamps), 11.9VDC(logic?) and 5.9VAC(GI). Is there a reason that the GI could not be DC as well instead of AC? If so, I think all of those should be easily doable.
Maybe someone smarter than I can tell me what I'm missing with that?
This playfield does have all the wiring on the back, so that's a start.
1) Playfield wiring is most of the battle.
2) Almost any Stern or Bally single level standard playfield cab will work. If using a early Bally cab, the playfield will plug right in to the rectifier board. If later Bally (-54 rectifier) you will have to make a minor adapter or cut off the plug.
3) Sound is easy- SB300 from Andrew which requires 12v and ground, plug to speaker and plug to speaker control.
4) Don't get too tied up on transformers- The early "small" unit from Stern works fine and there is a bizillion Bally units out there.
Pictured is Seawitch in Bally Pacman cab with Star Trek head with Flash Gordon style hinged neck. Altech MPU and SDB, Bally lamp board, Mr & Mrs Pacman transformer, Bally displays and Pacman wiring harness.
A work in progress but I can play, though with no sound at the moment since the post office has misplaced the SB300
3e3518d0c4cfb788b8452ada014e5c53f83df1b3 (resized).jpgb0e8c45c0d7e79837aea7bedaaf6281791d14554 (resized).jpg
22c055bd95faeb7939cc36155e68aff5a9ba3ed7 (resized).jpgQuoted from clodpole:Wow, that's coming along nice!
In the background of photo #7 (with the laptop showing inserts) there's a white pinball machine with what looks like a red and blue scuba diver on it. (The machine would be straight across from your booth on the far side of the hall.) What is that? I don't recognize it.
Not scuba, Sky Dive. Gottlieb.
Quoted from Jjsmooth:That flashing is coated aluminum. Does not conduct electricity well on the surface.
The screws piercing the aluminum holding the brackets in place work just fine.
Quoted from Jjsmooth:Simple test, with Depot roof flashing shows flaky at best.
[quoted image]
Now go to a second screw also in the aluminum, you are deliberately setting up a false result.
Quoted from Jjsmooth:Why would I do that?
I'm simply showing its not a trustworthy connection. Sure, I can screw 10 screws in there, and 7 or 8 may be good, but 2 or 3 are not. Maybe it saves someone some wasted time troubleshooting.
I wont bother again
If it pierces the metal, the connection is good.
You are not taping braid or a bracket to the aluminum thus your test isn't valid.
Quoted from cottonm4:OK, boys and girls, I traded emails with Kerry at Mantis; inquiring about the Stern slingshots, coin door flaps, coin door skins, and the 3 beauty angles that surround the coin door.
He said he made coin door skins at one time and they did not sell.
Basically, we are dealing with the law of small numbers with these parts. Unless he gets back to me with some surprise action, I don't see any of these items happening.
Odd as you think that the skins would sell better than the guide sets for "x"
Skins you can use on any title, the guide set only on one. I'll assume the guide sets are made as needed and some of the skins might need a third party involved and thus a minimum order number.
Quoted from cottonm4:How many scratch builders need a coin door?
Bally coin doors skins seem to be good sellers.
Quoted from cottonm4:The point I’m trying to make is that I don’t think $25.00 is enough of incentive for anyone to take these on.
Tough sale for sure. You have the base fabrication (laser or water jet) and then have to bend and rivet/press the pieces together. I'd wager minimum a $100 a pair with no coils or plunger and thats a WAG.
New DE/Stern style units are $50 fully loaded each from Pinball life but only fit a narrow range of classic titles. Dumb luck the DE units I had fit Seawitch so I went ahead and ordered new ones for Quicksilver... and the switch holes are not in the same locations =(
All classic Bally the DE ones won't fit either, every one I have checked so far Bally had lamps right behind the switches and it doesn't work.
I have a feeling I'm going to be sitting on the new DE units for a long time unless I cannibalize them for parts.
Quoted from Joydivision:I really hope someone like Pinballlife will make these. Mine have so much wear they nearly hit the nail! I think if some people checked their slingshots for wear & realised how worn they were & how much better it must play with tight ones they would have to sell quite a few sets. I would pay $25.00 or more.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Another issue us the pivot point which is riveted in some cases breaks loose and causes slop.
A quick spot or two with a welder fixes that problem.
Quoted from cottonm4:Are you saying I cannot rob a sling assembly from my Robocop and move it to my classic Sterns? Was looking at the self-contained sling units. What are my options?
It depends if it has even holes or not.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Look what the UPS guy dropped off last night.
[quoted image]
I'm looking for a loaded or even semi loaded Meteor playfield if someone has one for sale.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Well I cut out the light board shape. So far so good. Need to figure out where to cut the holes for Star Gazer now.
[quoted image]
I ran the Uno PCB through the photocopier at work and taped in place.
f2a260f55dba06840f273e5c624629cc39af740f (resized).jpgQuoted from Agent_Hero:With the top cap removed, the entire assembly slid up through the hole and mounted into place. Fit wasn't a problem on my cabinet.
I have seen a lot of variations in hole size.
Quoted from cottonm4:Instead of shaving the base rings, I got the cheapo drum sanding kit from Harbor Freight and took a couple of thousandths of wood from the inside of the holes for a fit.
https://www.harborfreight.com/sanding-drum-kit-20-pc-60741.html
[quoted image]
I used a router with a high speed metal bit for Seawitch, removed the wood in a very controlled manner. Nice and smooth.
Quoted from cookpins:Meteor was my first pin, I then got two DEs and a Whitestar Stern in the same year. Love my Meteor still and really want another Stern Electronic/ 80s pin. What do you recommend I pair with it?
Seawitch
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:First of all, I don't clear my pins because I'm going for a factory look. If I did, I would never consider a spray can clear. The surface area is just too large. To pull that you need some skill and a good bit of luck. You would have a much better chance of pulling it off with a paint gun in my opinion.
When I did Hearts and Spades I used Clearmax 2k matte finish, came out wonderful.
I have also had very good luck with using Eastwoods Automotive Diamond clear.
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-diamond-clear-gloss-aerosol.html
Quoted from play_pinball:Up = clockwise
Down = counterclockwise
With my multimeter set to 20k resistance, I get a reading of around 5.5.
Pretty sure this is what I used on the second Seawitch cabinet.
What I used on first
Both work fine.
Quoted from play_pinball:Bally lockdown bar receiver will work but you'll have to drill a hole in the front of the cab to mount the carriage bolt for it. You'll have to swap the receiver and the bar.
Or you can put a bolt on the inside of the receiver and counterbore the cabinet inside wall slightly to clear and have no external bolt head.
Quoted from hisokajp:for my QS and SG scratch build i bought a new PF harness but converted backbox harness. Making new PF harness from scratch is a whole different ball game...
I made a Seawitch harness from scratch using a Last Action Hero harness as a donor.
But I'm a lunatic.
Quoted from Clytor:This does sound like Lunacy.
Came out great!
89a01495e39b17888aa195b191ee0ebb38a924ba (resized).jpg6bb3038e98684942237d236ecf1d8268be830d54 (resized).jpgQuoted from lowbeau67:Its too bad So many meteors and galaxies are being
Frankensteined into stargazers,quicksilvers etc.
None of my business but I hate to see an original game from the past essentially erased.
Just my opinion and I'll take the arrows.
My Seawitch was built from scratch from a playfield destined to be a wall hanger. No pins were deconstructed by my hand in its resurrection.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/seawitch-from-scratch-allentown-edition
1d73b436f844e49dfd4c4bd8be92d52a34af663b (resized).jpg20211018_192425 (resized).jpg9980dcbc8364288414e64a3c86b454ef228f3721 (resized).jpga464eaefb4bf6e9241bf3c427e3e7a68236c0abc (resized).jpgQuoted from play_pinball:Looks like the transformer is set up for 115v and my wall is putting out 122v.
Should not make a difference there in regards to the fireworks.
Quoted from trecemaneras:If we manage to overdue it, someday there will be meteor and galaxy rescue / deconversion threads
Some people are building new pins from scratch which is exciting too.
Quoted from cottonm4:NB is the special case. You need the single target drop target and the 8 position memory drop target. You can sacrifice a Flight 2000 to get the needed 8 position target but no one had talked of another source. If you can come up with the answer for these 2 parts---and the special drop target---you can do it. Without these 3 items NB is a no-go. And don't forget the transformer.
Almost like you are throwing me a challenge bro.
Quoted from bluespin:I’m sure someone in the group bought a new playfield from Mirco and could sell you their used playfield.
Well I'm game if someone will come forth.
Quoted from cottonm4:It's always the simple stuff the bites you. At least, for me, anyway.
I get the weird stuff like main CPU being out of spec and randomly crashing out. Remember me chasing that one for weeks?
Quoted from sethbenjamin:I used a *flat* clear on my latest cabinet repaint, and I was very happy with the look.
Where gloss clear accentuates any surface imperfection and the paint edges, the flat clear pushes all of them back. The result is a very clean looking overall appearance, very much in keeping with the older factory appearance - but you get the benefit of a topcoat protecting the paint.
Not sure how well it translates to photos, but:
[quoted image][quoted image]
I did my last one in a matte finish, looked great!
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Hello all - lots of my leftover Meteor parts have already sold. Here is a new add with what is still available.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/144201
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I'd like to get the backglass and drops, shipping to east coast would be a bear.
Quoted from jdoz2:I would go with Coos personally. Its a little more expensive but hes quicker and I think the product is better. I have one of his mirrored stargazer backglasses and its beautiful.
https://www.instagram.com/cooshakvoort/?hl=en
Coos all the way.
Quoted from cottonm4:I am having a phantom pop bumper issue with the Quicksilver I have built.
It is the upper right pop that is acting up. The pop will usually activate a few seconds after I push the credit button and then will activate randomly during a game. This happens with the upper right pop only. When it activates, I get the 1000 points score.
I have a Weebly MPU installed and an Alltek SDU installed.
Yesterday, during a game, the game reset and locked up. I had 77 and 77 lit up in the credits and ball in play displays. I had to turn the pin off to reset it. Sort of like a hard crash with a computer.
It's electronic so I am mostly clueless, as usual.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
What brand cpu?
Quoted from cottonm4:Weebly MPU and Alltek SDU.
Nope.
What BRAND CPU is on the Weebly board? remember the problem I had with mine? Hitachi CPU was cranky.
5e67cf609c4304273c767883a662766fddeb7e21 (resized).jpgQuoted from cottonm4:This is what I have on my Weebly MPU. The part numbers appear to be different than yours.
[quoted image]
Good unit.
Quoted from cottonm4:Thank you. I guess I'll live with it knowing it can be expected.
Caps on flipper coils and cab switches make a big difference.
Quoted from hisokajp:really? has this been tested?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/seawitch-from-scratch-allentown-edition
Extensively.
Quoted from hisokajp:found it, https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/seawitch-from-scratch-allentown-edition/page/15#post-6579752 may give that a try too- thanks
I tried several things including relocating switch harness and the caps on the EOS worked great. As a bonus it reduces arcing a lot and will extend the life of the switches.
Quoted from wolffcub:Someone tell him they also still make them in black…..he will lose his mind! Lol
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071Z1XB3M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
Eowpower 225Pcs 9 Size Nylon R Type Cable Clamp Fastener Assortment Kit for (1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 1) Inch
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Still not sure what to do about the transformer issue. Quicksilver only has 2 flippers so I could use the smaller Wild Fyre transformer.
I used "the small" transformer in my Seawitch build and it worked just fine. Over 500 plays in 48 hours at Pintastic.
Quoted from vec-tor:The displays deterioration is caused by over voltage.
Bally has high voltage at +190 volts...but, a engineering tech told me all you need is enough
voltage to get the displays to lite up. I find that I can get the displays to stay lit at +170 volts.
When the regulated high voltage fails, it ends up supplying approximately +300 volts to the displays.
This over voltage, over time, causes the most damage to the gas discharge displays.
240 to 260 volts in my experience.
I run mine around 168v without issue, yes it technically makes the regulators work harder but they are still being made while the glass displays are not.
Quoted from barakandl:It must have worked out because they did it again by bootlegging the wms system 9/11 board when they became data east.
False.
Stern had rights to Williams HARDWARE since he actually purchased half of William's Electronics from Harry Williams. He did not have rights to Williams software though which had to be done from scratch.
Quoted from barakandl:The timing of Harry Williams leaving, Seeburg going under with WMS assets and stuff is a mess and does not make sense that Stern had rights in the 80s to it. Since DE did it and did not get the pants sued off of them they did pull it off. Doesn't mean its not still a straight up bootleg of WMS hardware, Gary was just more tactful the 2nd time bootlegging hardware. I am sure there was some shady ass backroom mafia like dealings going on. They where all more connected then realized. Gary is not going to to an interview where he says "yeah, we bootlegged it"
When i was looking up copyright law a couple years ago and Stern was involved in one of the first cases involving software copyrights and it set some precedent as far as original works in software.
[quoted image]
This was covered by Dave Thiel who designed the first Data East sound boards and he discussed how they had to "clean sheet" the MPU software because Stern did not have the rights to the Williams software.
Do you think Williams would have NOT sued the crap out of Stern if he infringed on something? The went after him for the video mode in Star Wars and "The Getaway" in LW3 and the term "multiball." Williams would sue at the drop of the hat for software but never went after DE for hardware.
Quoted from Quench:What year did this specific purchase happen?
Are you talking/confusing about when Sam Stern bought 49% of Williams back in 1947, then the rest of Williams in 1959 but then sold it in 1964 to Seeburg?
Is there some other purchase where Sam/Gary Stern obtained access rights to Williams solid state hardware?
I don't know the details, just what Dave recounts in several excellent interviews which are on youtube, he was there at the ground floor of Data East. Stern had rights to the hardware due to the purchase of Williams at one time. How they transferred to Gary Stern I don't have that information. The fact that Williams didn't sue the hell out of Data East for hardware infringement lends some credence to the story. Dave was emphatic that the software had to be developed "clean room" because Williams was so litigious.
For all we know it could be something as innocuous as a "pop bumper" and some court ruled that was "hardware" and thus displays, power boards, mpus qualified but clearly software did not.
I don't know.
Quoted from barakandl:Data East lawyer. "no no, it's not a copy of a williams board, see we used a blue solder mask instead of green and see that resistor is 1.2k instead of 1.5k and it's turned 90 degrees. Original works"
Think that would have worked? Doubtful. The Stern/Bally boards are visually different to the untrained eye to some degree and there is differences in mpu speed and memory.
If Williams is going to go after DE for use of the term "multi-ball" it's pretty much anything goes in court with a bar that low.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Stern pinball pinball got me video on YouTube when i looked. It looks awful.
https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/pinball
It was a Chicago Coin design that got pushed out the door by Stern.
Quoted from slochar:The broken thing on Seawitch is the loop shot only. The rest of the PF with the drop layout is genius..
I have hit the loop in both directions in one play, it's tough which makes it magic when you pull it off.
Just hitting one loop is great, but to immediately rail it back the other direction is awesome.
Quoted from snyper2099:I really do Appreciate the ingenuity and DIY approach but why not just order new flipper plates?
I have a welder "zap zap" done.
Always good to see another way to skin the cat though.
Quoted from play_pinball:What do you guys think are the odds this 16B-6 transformer is salvageable?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I think it would be fine, no physical damage or burns.
Quoted from play_pinball:What do you guys think are the odds this 16B-6 transformer is salvageable?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/transformer-refurbish-suggestions
Quoted from play_pinball:F2K is a game that could really benefit from a Hardtop. Surprised it hasn’t been made yet.
I played one with a playfield protector, it was not a good experience. Different than a hardtop of course, the playfield protector had enough give you could actually see it ripple as the ball went over the surface and change direction.
Quoted from play_pinball:Honestly I agree about the classic Bally experience with Hardtops. The ball spins like a top. Just so many F2K’s are blown out and the cost of a CPR is pretty rough.
In that case I'd give a hardtop at least a try. The resale on F2K is not that great in most cases so it makes a hardtop almost the only feasible option.
Quoted from GoldenOreos:cant seem to find the post, but looking for a replacement GI Relay for a Ali. the one in the game now has the green goo all inside and it works like 60% of the time.
Relay Omron LY2 LY2N-J 48V DC 48VDC 10A 240VAC 10A 28VDC With Socket Base
I just popped this in on Galaxy, worked perfect. If Galaxy is the same as Ali you will be all set.
Before.
Only way to get lane guides is to but a complete set for $170 or used and most of them are chipped up..
Not spending $170 on this beater.
Quoted from frisbez:https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/13C-114-EB
Galaxy inlane guides.
Too late.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:It's never too late!
That said, I think the clear lexan looks fine also.
Being unemployed also is a factor, I'd rather spend the $44 on provisions and since I already own the Lexan and had some "rest time..."
I'm in the process of shingling the house, no fun at all.
The game still isn't 100%, I think the ram is funky.
Every once in awhile it will lock up when a credit is added or starting a game, it's the only time it will do it. Going though audits after, the last audit (18) will have a garbage entry. Sometimes it will be fine for days on end without a problem.
20230604_161751 (resized).jpgQuoted from KSUWildcatFan:Pass on the unemployed, pass on the shingling of a house. I did that with my grandpa exactly one time. Never, ever, ever again.
Do yourself a favor and just slap the new code in that Galaxy when you can. The stock code is boooooooooooooooooring anyway. The new code turns that game into a real winner. Not going to lie, one of my more regrettable swaps was Galaxy with the new code for Stars. I'm selling Stars as soon as I finish getting it cleaned up. Just not a fan (given money considerations, etc -- you know how it goes)... The Arduino should take care of any wonky issues you have with the MPU. I'm running a pretty messed up Bally MPU from a Playboy in my Meteor (with the Arduino hijacking the signal) and it's just fine. Basically, any half-working junker MPUs I have get slotted in games with the new code because then I don't even have to bother fixing them. Win-win.
I may tinker with it in regards to new code, I'd like to get the MPU 100% though.
Like the layout of the game and it plays very fast so new code maybe in the future, I can highjack the nano from Flash Gordon.
Unemployed by choice to some degree.. though I'm looking for something part time now. It is prudent to use my time wisely while available and settling any house issues is a very good use of time. Roof will be done by weekend and I'm in the process of stripping down the kitchen so I can do new flooring. Not much left to do after that.
Quoted from gdonovan:Roof will be done by weekend and I'm in the process of stripping down the kitchen so I can do new flooring. Not much left to do after that.
Finished yesterday morning.
Oh I think I got a handle on the MPU issue, ram chip.
352664249_192765440417805_2226607652615437160_n (resized).jpg
Quoted from Lovef2k:I have two Meteor PF's and both have the post with a white plastic sleeve.
My Quicksilver has one as does my Meteor & Seawitch.
Quoted from mikeflan:I have two Seawitches, and zero Stars, so that's where my mind is at right now. Would also consider pretty much any other classic Stern that I don't have (I have Nine Ball, Big Game, and Seawitch(X2)).
Seawitch is much better than Stars.
Quoted from snyper2099:Meteor just does not stand out for me. I've had 2 of them. It's fun to play every once in a while and the art is great but, when it comes down to actually owning one long term? Pass.
I actually played two or three examples before I "got" Meteor. The two or three I played were setup poorly or just in terrible shape.
Played a very nice Stars last weekend and I want to like it but it strikes me as a very heavy "EM design" layout. Some early solid state Bally's also fall into this category for me. I love the art on Bally Star Trek but the design is a snoozer for me.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Well, you're certainly entitled your opinion on both. I think you'd find yourself in the vast minority but that's okay, we don't all like the same things.
I love the way Quicksilver sounds but the playfield has not been in the BallyStern cabinet since it was built. I'll keep it for a bit longer but Seawitch has more staying power for me.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:I love love love seawitch so I get it. I've probably put 7 games, total, on QS. But I've really enjoyed every one of them. Hard to say what has staying power until it's in the row, though. Meteor and Seawitch have staying power.
The thing I like a Meteor aside from the drop sweeps is the impression the ball is always coming at you, you don't get any rest. In some games that is a bad thing (I like a good pop bumper nest where you get a momentary respite) but in this case I find it enjoyable.
Quoted from sullivcd40:Can I salvage this rectifier board? My biggest concern is E4. I think the pad is lifted.
[quoted image]
Yes.
Quoted from Ollulanus:Okay, I'm sorta losing my mind here. Cannot get my Seawitch slings to stop double/triple tapping for the life of me. Is there anything OTHER than leaf adjustments that could be causing it? I've adjusted tons of slings and never had this kind of trouble.
For context, I had no issues prior to playfield swap, then left sling started up. Couldn't seem to get it to stop by adjusting, so said screw it and replaced the old switches on both sides (new diodes and caps too). Made it worse. Have tried looser bands, have tried bowing the switch forward, bowing it back, straight, you name it...pulling my hair out here. Can't think of anything other than rebounding leafs that would cause it, but I'm starting to wonder as it's making me fucknuts. Game looks and plays beautifully otherwise, but every time those slings triple tap I just feel like a failure, lmao.
Switches. Make sure the "stiffener" is in place and facing the right direction.
Quoted from tatman9999:Picked this up today to go next to dragonfist, stars, big game , now I need a quicksilver. Star gazer came with 2 new playfields.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I could fix up that old playfield. I think so anyway.
Quoted from tatman9999:I am going to sell the new uncleared one and possibly the old
One.
LMK, I might be interested. I like the upper playfield layout but the lower leaves me cool but willing to give it a spin.
Quoted from dothedoo:I agree, Quicksilver rocks! I plan on building one from a Lectronamo. If I ever feel the urge to play Lectronamo, I'll just find myself a Nugent.
Thinking about selling my completed playfield and backglass, have not decided yet.
119db780958293ef630bdee3b14865e66311629e (resized).jpgQuoted from Tsskinne:New stern mechs available from pinball life should work.
Careful, I found out the hard way it will not work on some titles due to the sling/switch holes being uneven.
The Stern/DE sling assemblies work fine on Seawitch, Quicksliver not so much.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Price? Definitely interested.
30 shipped. Comes already weeded and with transfer sheet.
Quoted from ita47:Those look great! Do you make any other colors for say Nine Ball, Big Game, Meteor? What about the older apron design for Stars?
Any color really, the cutter doesn't care.
I just looked at an early apron, if I had one to scan and make a cut file I could do it no problem. Anyone have a good scan already? I thought I had one but can't find it at the moment.
Quoted from BorgDog:Here is a scan of a Dracula apron, believe it is the same pattern. Have an illustrator file of it if you like I can share a link when I'm in my computer tomorrow.[quoted image]
I'll have to check my stash, I might even have an apron to test fitment.
I'm going to be pulling vinyl samples next week and getting ready to cut for those whom expressed interest.
Gary
Quoted from sethbenjamin:Give it a try next time, I’ve rebuilt blown out plywood and badly damaged corners using it and it’s pretty great stuff. I build a dam using prefinished plywood (waxed paper would work as well if you don’t have PF ply around.) Then just pour in the resin. Sometimes it takes a couple of applications (the material will find its way through e small cracks, so stuffing them or taping them off is key.) Break down the dam, and you have a solid, hard, durable block of material. I agree, bondo isn’t up to rebuilding a corner. But I’ve been impressed with fiberglass resin.
Not a knock on your technique here, just wanted to put in a word for the technique as I’ve had great success with it!
Fiberglass is quick and durable.
Make some dams out of tape, mix & pour. Come back in a few hours, pull tape and block sand down.
Pinside_forum_6531532_0 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_6534163_0 (resized).jpgQuoted from cottonm4:Are you using the resin from a fiberglass kit?
Just go to Walmart and get a container of fiberglass resin and hardener from the automotive repair aisle, if they still sell the stuff.
Autozone.
It's great for nonstructural repairs.
I should have a spare set of Meteor apron decals if anyone is looking.
If you need a set, now is the time to check in. I'm going through my bin now to see what colors I have on hand. Going to try and do a bunch so I don't have to setup for a run, if it's needed in the future I'll just be able to mail them out as needed. I'll do Quicksilver and Seawitch tomorrow with Stargazer to follow.
Gary
P.S. If someone would like to me take a stab at it, send me a "early Stern" apron and I'll work on doing one.
Need an apron for fitment testing.
Quoted from GoldenOreos:whenever you get to Quicksilver, I'll take a set. also need dragonfist for whenever if ever the playfields come lol
Quicksilver will done tomorrow, just cut 2 sets of Seawitch out. They will go fast!
Dragonfist looks very doable, I'll pick up some color samples tomorrow.
I'd love to scratch build a Dragonfist, not going to happen unless Fantastic guy does a playfield though.
Quoted from cookpins:Are these for sale somewhere gdonovan ?Been looking around for a bit and haven’t found them.
I do them when the mood strikes me, nothing regular.
Quoted from Ollulanus:Guessing you're using a silhouette or cricut for those? If you have any oramask or the like on hand, it might be worth doing stencils for those of us with an airbrush. Would be quick to make a file if you've got that setup already. Would need to rearrange on a larger piece for masking though.
I can do that.
Quoted from cottonm4:I have an airbrush. What are you saying? That with the right stencils we can air brush all of the apron details?
Yes.
Quoted from cottonm4:What? And then have a separate stencil for the lettering?
I have an airbrush. Nothing difficult about using an air brush.
I'd like a set that can do this.
Here is a piece of scrap that has been weeded, would be easy to use paint masking and save the floating parts.
20230921_071728 (resized).jpgQuoted from Ollulanus:I've never actually seen the Sean Connery movie, but some clips would be amusing.
I watched it a year ago, you're not missing anything!
At least got a good pinball game out of it.
Quoted from Mathazar:Thanks, gdonovan. Your classic Stern apron decal set is just the finishing touch my powder-coated-custom-Meteor-apron-with-a-video-screen needed to complete the job.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That looks sharp, glad I could help in some small way on your project! Been following your progress for sometime.
Gary
Quoted from Poida:Can I add a request for a Magic decal if you have the colour?
Looks like a pale yellow, not as bright as Dragonfist and not a mustard like Star Gazer. I'll see what there is in the Oracal color selection but I should be able to find something pretty close. Interesting that the apron does not have "chicago ill usa" at the bottom which makes life a lot easier when weeding.
Quoted from MutterFudder:Would be interested if this set makes it out down the line, I need the exact same design/color for Wild Fyre!
After I get done with the current pile in my shop I'll have some breathing room to give it a go. I have a friends in truck I'm working on to get him back on the road so getting bogged down time wise but I'll get there.
Quoted from Poida:Can I add a request for a Magic decal if you have the colour?
I see you are in Keperra, I have had good luck trimming a set down small enough to fit in a legal envelope and shipping for a nominal amount of postage while dodging the tax collectors.
Just saying.
Quoted from cottonm4:I have some Bally spinners that work well but I have a Williams High Speed spinner that gives as much action as as paperweight.
Also, spinners come in different weights. My examination shows the MPU-100 spinners are lighter in weight: Nugent, Dracula, Hot Hand all weigh 21-22 grams. Others are much heavier, something like 28 grams. Bally had some the weight 38 grams.
Most Bally spinners are the same aside from a Speakeasy playfield I parted out, it is almost twice the thickness compared to others. I'll try to get a picture for you.
Spinners I checked on my digital scale.
Speakeasy 37-38 grams
Classic Stern "blue & red arrows" 26 grams
Nitro funny car checker flag 23 grams
Spinner with skull and cross bones 22 grams
Quoted from cookpins:gdonovan was this spare Meteor set ever claimed? I’d really love to get one of these, have been searching for a while now.
I can take care of you, just busy as heck with several things at the moment.
Quoted from play_pinball:The transformer is the smaller 16B-3 which will function just fine but you lose a hair of oomph in the coils. It’s a 2 flipper game and the pops are all spread out so you don’t get a ton of rapid fire pop action anyway with star gazer. Still, the bigger transformer does give a bit of a pop to things. I personally tested swapping a -3 and a -6 transformer in my Quicksilver and could tell.
I went to a bigger transformer on Seawitch and the only thing I noted were pops and slings had a touch more zip but the flippers felt the same.
Quoted from Poida:Can I add a request for a Magic decal if you have the colour?
I'll try to remember to pickup the sheets tomorrow, almost slipped off my radar.
Pinside_archive_299_1935966 (resized).jpgQuoted from Poida:That would be appreciated mate.
Really not happy with the color choices for Magic, I'll send you the two closest yellows and you can decide which to use.
Quoted from cottonm4:What crappy holes are you talking about?
It might be holes on his personal machines- Cup holders, ash trays, credit buttons, lock bars, etc.
Quoted from play_pinball:Bally lockbar receivers attach with a carriage bolt through the front. I'm sure one could figure out how to recess this somehow and not drill a hole.
[quoted image]
I did on "Seawitch from Scratch"
Take out the carriage bolt and spacer and toss them. Replace with regular hex head bolt, tack in place with welder. Clearance inside cabinet location with forstner bit to clear bolt head, done.
PM replied to for apron decals- I have 1x Meteor, 5x Seawitch, 2x Quicksilver and 1x Stargazer left.
Dragonfist ran out the door! I might run off a few more before packing things up for a bit, still need to hit up a Mystic set or two.
Gary
Pile of decals going out first thing in the morning guys, had a few stragglers.
Meteor sold out! I picked up some more vinyl to do a few Dragonfist and now I have to run out to get fresh blades.
Gary
Quoted from DudeRegular:How much? Maybe if I start buying Dragonfist parts I can will a scratch build into existence.
$35 shipped in United States.
I just picked up some more vinyl so will be rattling off a few more this morning before running to post office.
Shown below are examples of some aprons done with vinyl cut decals.
229391849964f82d3332d2d885e9b99981792afa (resized).jpg60b6d9e8283feb5243794f994c77978c9ad496e1 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_6864620_0 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_7779040_0 (resized).jpgQuoted from splattii:I think I'm going to try to build a star gazer. I've sent a couple of PM's to see what I can source but I think it's most likely my best path and it will leave me with an extra set of flipper kits for another future project. I could see myself building a Quicksilver in the future if the Star Gazer pans out
Toying with a Stargazer time to time, love the upper playfield but those lower star roll overs give me pause.
See what happens after I wrap up Flash Gordon and Fathom scratch builds. I have a few others in the queue (Skateball, Star Trek and Nitro) but there is nothing that states I have to do them right away. I really need to make the time to finish the playfield on FG, life has been such a clownshow of late.
2d58d1ff71da674127f398cc2144a2ab19a0fd30 (resized).jpg668c6bbcd7ac1e9e565bdc9fcb7d7557fbf7f142 (resized).jpgQuoted from cottonm4:I am another one who favors Star Gazer over Quicksilver. Both are good and the people who have played the Quicksilver I built give it high marks; I am in the "Quicksilver is OK" crowd.
Star Gazer is my kind of pin. I have built both and sold them. I will be building another Star Gazer for myself. Not sure I would build another QS to keep.
QS is an ok pin, it SOUNDS better than it plays in my book if you know what I mean. If there was a poll of the best sounding pins on the early 80's it would rank right at the top along with the art. Centaur and Seawitch have both been inhabiting my scratch build cabinets for months now and I have not shown any interest in dropping the QS playfield back in.
Quoted from slochar:Because of the high bonus potential?
Nah just the lower "slingless setup" though I'd have to play one to really get a feel for it.
Quoted from cottonm4:Jumpin' Jehoshaphat !!!! I had not been on Ebay for awhile. Did not realize that drop assemblies were bringing that kind of money. Both the Stern and Bally's.
Typical as little as $10 to $100
Quoted from cottonm4:You are a little light on your prices.
ebay.com link: sch
Ebay parts prices are just like Ebay pinball machine prices, high.
I just picked up a four bank Bally drop target mech with coil for $10 at York, picked up a 3x inline last month for $30 and the most I have ever paid has been $100.
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:Sure. See below:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
PBR sells coil stops that are held in with a fastener.
coil stop (resized).jpegcs2 (resized).jpegQuoted from Johnnybee:Please help! I want to join the Stern club, but I need two (2) classic Stern (SEI 1977-1984) 3-drop target assemblies. If no 3 drop assemblies are available I could fit or modify 4,5,6 or 7 drop target assemblies instead. Please PM me if you are willing to sell/trade. Thank you!
You can use the Bally units with minor modifications and they are readily available.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/seawitch-from-scratch-allentown-edition/page/3#post-6468294
Quoted from cottonm4:As gdonovan said, Bally drops will work and work quite well.
Sure did.
Pinside_forum_6473387_2542664 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:I just installed your vinyl decal on my Star Gazer apron. It looks good!!!
[quoted image]
That looks great! I'm always a smidge pleased to help another pinhead bring something back.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:I just installed your vinyl decal on my Star Gazer apron. It looks good!!!
[quoted image]
If anyone is looking for more, I have another batch going out on Wednesday.
SG, QS, Meteor, Seawitch and DF are on hand.
Quoted from slochar:You would have to measure it carefully to see if the switches would fit. I would not use an all in one thing like this unless I was 100% sure it would fit (I think someone used this on their quicksilver scratch build and had to modify it, but the spacing would be different)
Also the coil would be stronger, 800 vs. 1200/1300
What parts are you missing/worn the entire assembly?
Just have to check the spacing and order with correct coil.
Quoted from cottonm4:Thank you. I know about the dip switch settings. I need to know if the corrected Nine Ball ROM comes with the MPU board or do I need to buy the corrected ROMs separately from someone who is set up to burn ROMs.
I can help with the rom.
Quoted from Ollulanus:I'll track that down, but I'm not sure how that'd be related anyway - the coil does NOT fire in test mode,
Big clue there, I'd look close for broken solder joints on boards and the connector terminals. Try coil test mode and see if putting mild pressure on mpu and sdb connections left/right suddenly causes it to work.
Quoted from slochar:If it doesn't reset in solenoid test it's not because of the switch state.
What I zeroed in on- If it isn't fire the coil in self test, that needs to be addressed first.
Put it is coil test mode and manipulate the connectors and pins to see if it starts working again.
Quoted from reconsider59:Hey y’all,
Working on a QS scratch build (thanks for the inspiration, HoakyPoaky!), and realizing I don’t have all the proper brackets for mounting the boards in the backbox.
Does anyone know what bracket I should get for a Weebly Stern SB-300 replacement?
I custom bent ones from sheet metal.
Pinside_forum_6888793_2851155 (resized).jpgQuoted from DudeRegular:I really dig all the transformer/power/speed discussion.
For another wrinkle in the conversation, what are folks thoughts when talking scratch builds with fancy brand new clear coated playfields?
My initial thought is say a two flipper dragonfist might play pretty fast with even the -3/bally transformer if it has a brand new playfield and parts. My Stars has a auto cleared playfield and it plays pretty dog gone fast with rebuilt flippers.
I swapped my Seawitch from the smaller Stern to the later fat Bally transformer. I did not note anything different with the flippers but oddly enough the slings were notably snappier.
I think if you have a small transformer and a clearcoated playfield most people would be perfectly happy. I'm going to build a third "from scratch" cabinet and use the early transformer I purchased from Cotton. Hopefully by the time Pintastic rolls around Seawitch from scratch, Fathom from Scratch and Flash Gordon from scratch will be lined up next to each other there.
Quoted from Pinball_Postal:That looks like it may be Glyptol. It was used to keep variable resistors from moving. I don't know why they would use it on everything.
In the automotive trade (Chrysler) the tools were dipped in paint and the inspector would know the fastener was tightened proper due to the presence of paint marks. This was common up into the 70's.
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:I've ordered mirrored BGs from COOs before, but I wasn't aware you could order the film & apply to old glass yourself. What's the process for adhering the film to your old glass? How much $$$ did you save doing this yourself?
Video in my Seawitch from scratch thread.
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:That's awesome! Thanks for the link. Looks like a really interesting thread too, I'll have to read through it
just hit the key post at top and you can jump right to it.
Quoted from cottonm4:You are a little light on your prices.
ebay.com link: sch
$50 on Ebay plus $8 shipping. Was actually listed for a few days and no one bit at it. The seller lowered the price $10 so I hit it.
s-l1600a (resized).jpgs-l1600s (resized).jpgQuoted from cottonm4:I recently bought a Gottlieb machine that has two 4-place drop target assemblies onboard.
[quoted image]
On my Seawitch play field, the slot for the 4-place drop assembly measures 5" long.
On the Gottlieb, the slot for the 4 drops measures 4 7/8" long.
I have not actually tried it yet, but I'm guessing a Gottlieb drop assembly would work if you cannot find a Stern drop target assembly.
The targets will look different. They will look more like the early style Stern tombstone target. But if you are begging, this might a solution.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I was actually going to do Skateball with DE drops.
Quoted from snyper2099:Sweet. That's the spirit!
I say "was" because I scored a set of Bally units though I still want to try the DE ones and see how prone to bricking they are compared to the Bally's.
No one ever complains the DE ones brick in my experience. Break when they get old in my experience but they all do.
Bricking isn't anywhere as common complaint.
Quoted from play_pinball:Tales from the Crypt, Simpsons, Checkpoint, Last Action Hero, Secret Service, Hook, WWF Royal Rumble, Star Trek 25th, Star Wars, Rocky & Bullwinkle, and Guns & Roses all come to mind.
What he said.
Quoted from chipleader:I have one that I'm willing to part with, if you're still looking.
[quoted image]
Sorry bro, just went through my collection and no dice.
Quoted from cottonm4:Pinball Resource sells the hooded drop targets with the yellow star. If you need the tombstone style drop target the hooded part can be sanded off/filed off and you can have a tombstone style target.
[quoted image]
I think he is looking for one that will blend in with the other aged units but could be wrong.
Quoted from slochar:Flyer shows the orange and that's what I always remember from the 80s as well.
How does it compare to Meteor?
Quoted from slochar:AFAIK Meteor Galaxy and Ali use the same aprons.
Meteor has the Tournament sticker attached to some of them as that was a Steve Kirk thing but the other parts are the same.
Ok, reason I ask most Meteor and galaxy ones are red, at least mine are.
Quoted from Mathazar:OEM Meteors are orange. I had you do mine in red to match the red powder coating I did on the legs, side rails, and lockdown bar of my custom restoration.
Mine in the garage is definitely on the red side that's why I didn't think much about it.
I can do any color you like though so does not matter to me!
Quoted from Mathazar:OEM Meteors are orange. I had you do mine in red to match the red powder coating I did on the legs, side rails, and lockdown bar of my custom restoration.
Galaxy looks red to me, the Meteor looks slightly faded toward orange.
20231222_162600 (resized).jpgQuoted from cottonm4:I played around with the switches on the slings and got no action even though the slings work in test mode. I need to look deeper into that, but all the other dead solenoids sort of confuse this.
I am going to step away from it for a few days. Other chores are needing attention.
Verify the switch matrix is correct.
Quoted from cottonm4:I favor translucent inserts as opposed to the clear that Stern used. I have been thinking the cloudy white plastic of a gallon milk jug might do that trick. It would be cheap to try.
Why I went with an orange starburst on my Flash Gordon instead of the orange clear. I hated looking down and seeing the bulb.
20240213_133626 (resized).jpgQuoted from NicoVolta:Yoppsicles are always the way.
Can be, I always pick and choose depending on the project. I really do like to fine tune the color of some pins and this can take several weeks or longer depending on my mood and I have 1000's of different led's on hand to do so.
Starting with a blank playfield yopps are a great choice just due to costs.
Pinside_forum_8002107_3751712 (resized).jpgQuoted from sullivcd40:That’s a lot of really precise cutting, I’d have no chance. Maybe if you’re extremely patient and skilled with a razor blade it would work. I’ve read about people using the silhouette cameo to do make stencils in sections and then airbrushing, I think gdonovan actually did his FG pf using this method.
Yes, I did one section of my FB this way plus all the insert keylines.
Pinside_forum_7930847_0 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_7933786_0 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_7961451_3722489 (resized).jpgQuoted from Xenon75:Are there any apron decals or stencils available for a Catacomb apron?
To answer your question.. maybe
The two biggest differences is the text under the "rams horns" I'd have to isolate and identify the font and then modify my cut files.
The other issue is it has the newer STERN logo which is made up of a series of dots.
I'd have to experiment and see how it comes out.
Pinside_archive_84_21371 (resized).jpgI did a small run of vinyl cut apron decals if anyone is looking for Seawitch, Dragonfist, Meteor, Magic or Quicksilver for $35 shipped.
Gary
229391849964f82d3332d2d885e9b99981792afa (resized).jpgPinside_forum_6864620_0 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_7773109_2 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_8106235_0 (resized).pngQuoted from sullivcd40:Those look great. How do you spray your aprons?
The first two are mine, just done with rattle can.
Quoted from Ollulanus:Did you ever do stencils? I'd rather stencil and airbrush paint if possible. Keep meaning to make scans.
I could do cuts with frisket.
Quoted from Ollulanus:Wait, are you hand-cutting these? I assumed you were running them through a silhouette or something. Figured if you had files it'd be simple to run on orcal 813, reverse the weed and get stencils. Or did you mean you could cut it into frisket with a cricut or the like? If so, I'd recommend orcal 813, works really well for airbrush stencils. And I'd def take a few sets. Or for that matter, if interested, would work out something to pay ya for an .svg to make my own as I do have a cutter...just too many projects.
If not, I'll get to that eventually. Will need to redo the apron for my stargazer build when I finally finish this damn lighting I've been mucking with forever.
I use a Cameo 4 for cutting.
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