(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 2,346 posts
  • 195 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by treborlicec
  • Topic is favorited by 101 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #227 Various gate tips. Posted by cottonm4 (1 year ago)

Post #269 Hi quality thoughts from Cotton about inlanes. Posted by cottonm4 (1 year ago)

Post #279 Playfield touch up tips. Posted by klr650 (1 year ago)

Post #309 Stern inserts suggestions. Posted by cottonm4 (1 year ago)

Post #310 Seawitch gate flap solution. Posted by frunch (1 year ago)

Post #1033 Bally drop targets on the classic stern, even mix and match. Posted by cottonm4 (8 months ago)

Post #1958 Star Gazer podcast episode link. Posted by DRDAVE (73 days ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#267 1 year ago

Stars is not seeing enough love in this thread. Set it to special = points repeatable and it's the best game of all time.

#275 1 year ago

There's a comma. Classic Stern.

#293 1 year ago

How is Nugent? I was a fan of his music before he went insane.

2 weeks later
#357 1 year ago

A seawitch with improved geometry and new style drops would be excellent if it wasn't at the rumored price

1 week later
#478 11 months ago

I'm interested to see if they did anything with the geometry of the lower right side of the playfield vs. classic seawitch. I love my seawitch but those shots are stupid tough and usually just "lucked" when I make them. I've got a williams flipper there I can't imagine how impossible they'd be with a classic stern fatty.

RE: Lectronamo - if your drops are flush don't adjust them up whatever you do. You'll get crazy airballs. I'd be interested to see what that "add a 2nd rubber" method would do in this area as well as if it would affect the drops from dropping.

#550 11 months ago

semicolin you can get some really weird lamp behavior if anything from the coin door harness has grounded. Not sure if that might be what you have going on but maybe worth a look.

1 week later
#588 11 months ago

tsskinne did you make sure your EOS was properly gapped on the resting position as well as "flipper up" when fully assembled? I've seen people burn up a coil because they set the gap when wiring the eos switch but before installing the coil stop (stops the flipper sooner).

I'd make sure that the flipper assembly is still fully free moving. Starting to get weaker could be the coil / sleeve starting to deform due to heat. If the coil heated up that much it'll continue to cause fuse issues etc even if you resolve the root cause. You can check the resistance at the lugs vs youe working coil.

1 week later
#624 11 months ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

the drop target bank on the left of right in the middle

Dude... what?

Make sure the contact surfaces are clean. Lift the playfield and actuate the arm manually and see if you can figure out what's going on. It may be binding near the top of its travel or you may have an issue with a spring not pulling forward enough. Compare the target ledges and see if they're worn.

1 month later
#742 9 months ago

I know it's more efficient to do it that way but it still makes me nervous to not do them one at a time to be absolutely sure I dont mix any up.

#756 9 months ago

I've got a Stars for trade in Richmond, VA if anyone is interested. Projects ok.

1 week later
#826 9 months ago

I had a minor issue with an Alltek board and it was replaced immediately with the latest revision. I've purchased a ton of his boards for MPU, SDU, and lamp driver and only had that one minor issue that was immediately resolved. Weebly gs Ben my go-to for rectifier boards as it saves me a few bucks with the roll-your-own option. You can't go wrong with either company as far as I'm concerned.

#827 9 months ago

Does anybody have classic stern lockdown hardware looking for a home? My Stars has the lockdown bar with the round pegs but no locking hardware. PM me with your monetary demands!

3 weeks later
#971 8 months ago

Spinner tuning post in the seawitch thread I made in response to a guy who's spinner was leaning forward, preventing spins / loops:


2 weeks later
#1002 8 months ago

Has anybody installed one of the new playfield protectors on their stars or meteor? Do they cause stucky balls on the drops?

2 weeks later
#1157 7 months ago

I have a stern stars set to 50 cent play. The coin mechs don't count together, you have to put both coins in the same mech. Is there a good way to overcome this like putting a jumper between the wires so both sides coin up, or is it better to have one coin signal for both sides or something?

2 weeks later
#1307 7 months ago

Maybe I'm not tracking what you're saying but a new flipper mech will have more bounce because it doesnt have the slop in it the old linkage will from decades of use. That being the case what you think of as feeling right is just being used to playing with worn out mechs.

#1310 7 months ago

The bakelite definitely eggs out both around both the roll pin and the pawl over time.

#1313 7 months ago

No? What's it made of?

1 week later
#1381 6 months ago

That galaxy was beautiful. The gloss on the cab was a really nice touch I wouldn't have thought of. Was it spraymax?

#1384 6 months ago

Did these games come with coin boxes? I've had 4 and none came with one. If they did have them will somebody snap a photo for me?

2 months later
#1648 4 months ago

It's beautiful!

1 month later
#1872 84 days ago

Looking for a wild fyre. Can trade an Alien Poker or negotiate cash.

#1880 84 days ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

I don't know if you want to make the long haul, but we have a customer in Harrisburg, PA, who had a Wild Fyre for sale. If interested, I could check if he still has it.

PM sent, thanks!

2 weeks later
#1985 68 days ago

Can an SB-300 be used in place of an SB-100?

2 weeks later
#2097 49 days ago

Still battling airballs from my seawitch center drop bank. I put it new drops and a new rubber and it still occasionally flies up. Looking at this is the rubber at about the appropriate level? Just higher than the center of the ball? Should I try mounting the drops farther back so there's less space between them and the rubber? There isn't a lot of play in the mechs or the posts but I can try to justify them together as much as the screw holes allow. The drops are about exactly level with the PF.

#2102 48 days ago

Lower left mostly. Occasionally one from the lower right or upper left which is what makes me think it's more a drop geometry issue than flipper power. That said, nothing would shock me as it has 3 Williams bats and the lower left is actually a bally mech with the longer metal shaft and the original stern coil. I have the parts to do rebuilds on all 4 flippers including the appropriate bracket / mech eventually.

I've been trying to analyze if it's hopping a cupped insert or anything and can't see anything obvious.

#2117 47 days ago

That's funny I was thinking I might try to raise mine and stop it from being possible in the first place!

#2119 47 days ago

Just to prevent someone else from nearly having a nervous breakdown I had a reset issue caused by a cracked solder joint on a diode on a slam tilt switch. Of course, worked at the time I tested it so I had gone an entirely different direction and did a lot of tail chasing. Probably not it but worth being in your list of possibilities.

1 week later
#2175 38 days ago

The top row of segments is out in one of my displays. I followed Kukpa's guide. All connections reflowed, the associated transistor and the chip both replaced as well as the 100k resistors. There is continuity from the last pin that appears to connect to the top segments to all the other components in the chain. The display is certified as the issue through swap out to other slots and cross verification. Anything else to look at before I give up?

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