Stars is not seeing enough love in this thread. Set it to special = points repeatable and it's the best game of all time.

There's a comma. Classic Stern.

How is Nugent? I was a fan of his music before he went insane.

A seawitch with improved geometry and new style drops would be excellent if it wasn't at the rumored price

I'm interested to see if they did anything with the geometry of the lower right side of the playfield vs. classic seawitch. I love my seawitch but those shots are stupid tough and usually just "lucked" when I make them. I've got a williams flipper there I can't imagine how impossible they'd be with a classic stern fatty.

RE: Lectronamo - if your drops are flush don't adjust them up whatever you do. You'll get crazy airballs. I'd be interested to see what that "add a 2nd rubber" method would do in this area as well as if it would affect the drops from dropping.

semicolin you can get some really weird lamp behavior if anything from the coin door harness has grounded. Not sure if that might be what you have going on but maybe worth a look.

Tsskinne did you make sure your EOS was properly gapped on the resting position as well as "flipper up" when fully assembled? I've seen people burn up a coil because they set the gap when wiring the eos switch but before installing the coil stop (stops the flipper sooner).

I'd make sure that the flipper assembly is still fully free moving. Starting to get weaker could be the coil / sleeve starting to deform due to heat. If the coil heated up that much it'll continue to cause fuse issues etc even if you resolve the root cause. You can check the resistance at the lugs vs youe working coil.

Dude... what?

Make sure the contact surfaces are clean. Lift the playfield and actuate the arm manually and see if you can figure out what's going on. It may be binding near the top of its travel or you may have an issue with a spring not pulling forward enough. Compare the target ledges and see if they're worn.

I know it's more efficient to do it that way but it still makes me nervous to not do them one at a time to be absolutely sure I dont mix any up.

I've got a Stars for trade in Richmond, VA if anyone is interested. Projects ok.

I had a minor issue with an Alltek board and it was replaced immediately with the latest revision. I've purchased a ton of his boards for MPU, SDU, and lamp driver and only had that one minor issue that was immediately resolved. Weebly gs Ben my go-to for rectifier boards as it saves me a few bucks with the roll-your-own option. You can't go wrong with either company as far as I'm concerned.

Does anybody have classic stern lockdown hardware looking for a home? My Stars has the lockdown bar with the round pegs but no locking hardware. PM me with your monetary demands!

Spinner tuning post in the seawitch thread I made in response to a guy who's spinner was leaning forward, preventing spins / loops:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/any-seawitch-fans-on-pinside/page/12#post-4814673

Has anybody installed one of the new playfield protectors on their stars or meteor? Do they cause stucky balls on the drops?

I have a stern stars set to 50 cent play. The coin mechs don't count together, you have to put both coins in the same mech. Is there a good way to overcome this like putting a jumper between the wires so both sides coin up, or is it better to have one coin signal for both sides or something?

Maybe I'm not tracking what you're saying but a new flipper mech will have more bounce because it doesnt have the slop in it the old linkage will from decades of use. That being the case what you think of as feeling right is just being used to playing with worn out mechs.

The bakelite definitely eggs out both around both the roll pin and the pawl over time.

No? What's it made of?

That galaxy was beautiful. The gloss on the cab was a really nice touch I wouldn't have thought of. Was it spraymax?

Did these games come with coin boxes? I've had 4 and none came with one. If they did have them will somebody snap a photo for me?

It's beautiful!

Looking for a wild fyre. Can trade an Alien Poker or negotiate cash.

PM sent, thanks!

Can an SB-300 be used in place of an SB-100?

Still battling airballs from my seawitch center drop bank. I put it new drops and a new rubber and it still occasionally flies up. Looking at this is the rubber at about the appropriate level? Just higher than the center of the ball? Should I try mounting the drops farther back so there's less space between them and the rubber? There isn't a lot of play in the mechs or the posts but I can try to justify them together as much as the screw holes allow. The drops are about exactly level with the PF.

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Lower left mostly. Occasionally one from the lower right or upper left which is what makes me think it's more a drop geometry issue than flipper power. That said, nothing would shock me as it has 3 Williams bats and the lower left is actually a bally mech with the longer metal shaft and the original stern coil. I have the parts to do rebuilds on all 4 flippers including the appropriate bracket / mech eventually.

I've been trying to analyze if it's hopping a cupped insert or anything and can't see anything obvious.

That's funny I was thinking I might try to raise mine and stop it from being possible in the first place!

Just to prevent someone else from nearly having a nervous breakdown I had a reset issue caused by a cracked solder joint on a diode on a slam tilt switch. Of course, worked at the time I tested it so I had gone an entirely different direction and did a lot of tail chasing. Probably not it but worth being in your list of possibilities.

The top row of segments is out in one of my displays. I followed Kukpa's guide. All connections reflowed, the associated transistor and the chip both replaced as well as the 100k resistors. There is continuity from the last pin that appears to connect to the top segments to all the other components in the chain. The display is certified as the issue through swap out to other slots and cross verification. Anything else to look at before I give up?

Does anyone have a fix for the rivet coming off on the lockdown bar lever? Can it be attached with a nut / bolt if the receiver is removed?

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Yeah probs just needs a memory clear.

Protectors work great to neutralize the effect of cupped inserts.

I have a Lectronamo with the original SB-100. I've been reading that it has "chime circuitry" that can be used, but can't find any guides or anybody that has said "yeah I've done that". Is it really as easy as wiring up an existing chime box and flipping a dip switch on the MPU, or am I misunderstanding what it means by chime circuitry? I don't see any tip102s on the SB-100, so how does it work, send a signal back to the MPU which tells the SDU to fire the correct chime coil?

But how does it work? Are the chimes connected to the SDU like the other coils? What is the role of the sound board in this? It seems like with a ROM change necessary it would just be switch -> MPU -> SDU instead of switch -> MPU -> SB-100 -> MPU -> SDU.

I'm assuming the SB-100 doesn't drive the coils but maybe I'm wrong. The schematics for Lectronamo didn't have anything indicating where chimes would be connected.

Someone said Nugent is the same ROM as Lectronamo, is this the case? If so, how do I get the ROM? Happy to make a donation to the cause or help beat test. Also have a Wild Fyre I can convert if you're planning on ever working on that one.

Weird coil issue on Stern Lectronamo. Works intermittently.

Switch is registering because it scores points

Always fires when grounding the transistor, ruling out wiring

Solder has been reflowed

Transistor replaced just in case

No amount of wiggling wires on the mpu or SDU will fix it when it's not working, but it always fires when grounding the tab.

The problem never appears with an Alltek SDU installed

Does an intermittent problem like this sound like it might be one of the chips on the original SDU?

That is horrifying

Lectronamo sb-100 replacement complete! Woop! Thanks to @Gott-leib and especially @Slochar!

2 hard parts: a badass has to have written the ROMs and you need to procure a chime box. The rest is wiring.

If you're going to have 4... that's a pretty good set.

Cripes that's over $600 per ball.

How nice / new is the playfield and what kind of clear job did it get?

Nice. IDC = ugh.

Speaking of which is there a good not PITA method to converting pass through IDCs to crimp I don't know about?

When you guys are doing swaps / restorations how do you clean the rough under apron metals too big for the tumbler? Just rubbing alcohol the gunk off or anything to further clean / shine /smooth?

Does anybody have plans for making a stern or bally cab from scratch? Would be an awesome business shipping these in a flat pack.

A $300 flat pack would be amazing. I got 5 on that 750 for whoever has a classic bally/ stern to send.

That thing is super minty. Cab / playfield restored?

On purpose to avoid copyright / trademark or something?

Nooooo Kulpa's site was awesome.

Nice. I just fish around blindly with the magnet on a steek for 10 minutes before realizing it somehow bounced into a bundle of wires.

Would a spot welder get a nut welded on a threaded rod solid enough or is it too thick? If one had a spot welder they'd be quick to produce.

What is it about my statement that makes you think I'd like to do this while it was installed in the playfield?

Don't kill wild fyre!

The the bakelite piece out and see what's binding. The plunger fingers probably just need to be spread out a tad if they're pinching it. Or just might need cleaning on the pivot points.

Yeah on closer look the tip of the bakelite piece came off. Getting a whole new plunger might be easiest but I think you might be able to get just the bakelite from PBR.

Cool product. Consider not supporting terrible people.

John please finish the seawitch run before starting another project!

Re flipper drag: remove the coil stop and see if the bat has free movement with the coil being held in place with your hand. It's possible to have the coil misaligned slightly when tightening the stop. If you can get it to move freely even with the stop just loose a little bit this might be the issue.

It hasn't been talked about a lot since it's an $800 playfield to go in an $800 game. Don't get me wrong, one of my favorite games ever and I'd love to get a new playfield for it... but the price of admission is just too high.