(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 2,421 posts
  • 203 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by slochar
  • Topic is favorited by 102 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #227 Various gate tips. Posted by cottonm4 (1 year ago)

Post #269 Hi quality thoughts from Cotton about inlanes. Posted by cottonm4 (1 year ago)

Post #279 Playfield touch up tips. Posted by klr650 (1 year ago)

Post #309 Stern inserts suggestions. Posted by cottonm4 (1 year ago)

Post #310 Seawitch gate flap solution. Posted by frunch (1 year ago)

Post #1033 Bally drop targets on the classic stern, even mix and match. Posted by cottonm4 (8 months ago)

Post #1958 Star Gazer podcast episode link. Posted by DRDAVE (3 months ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1318 8 months ago

I have had a beautiful stars machine for awhile now and it is one of my top two favorites. I've owned a big game and a Meteor in the past. I just sold Meteor and picked up a rough Flight 2000. Looks like a fun challenging game.

I am working on the electronics, but looking ahead.....

I need new lane guides and/or plastics. the guide that brings the ball to the flippers on either side was replaced by a crudely cut piece of plastic. Were they originally two levels with metal underneath plastic? Does anyone know where I can find a pair of these?

#1320 8 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

CPR makes a set.

what is underneath them?

#1323 8 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You can buy just the art work pieces. OR you can but the art work plus the clear plastics.

Okay, now I see. It has the upper and lower level plastics. The lower is clear and the ball contacts, the upper has the artwork.

Does anyone have any extras they are willing to sell? I'd prefer not to have to buy a complete set. Yellowing or cracks okay.


#1326 7 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You can buy some .030" polycarbonate and trace your upper plastics

the problem is I don't have the upper or lower plastics, so I don't know the shape. Someone tried to replace them, but clearly they are misshaped. I would rather do it correctly if I could get a tracing or a scan.

Is anyone able to do this for me?


#1328 7 months ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

Which plastics are you looking for?

I need the bottom plastics that lead to the flippers. They are long and thin and curved. If you have an upper layer and a lower layer, I could use both. I need both sides.

#1336 7 months ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

What I'm trying to say is I have an extra set of inlane plastics but no lower plastics to go with it. WHich I don't think exists.

those plastics would be great. PM me with how much you want.


#1350 7 months ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

TPF score of the day

What are these? are they the plastic pop rings? Anyone know why they are plastic? is this better? I can't figure out what they are sitting in...

3 weeks later
#1460 6 months ago

Anyone know why when my sound board is plugged in on my flight 2000 the machine boots, i hear start up pings, but then the MPU restarts? I just did a capacitor replacement and replaced large chip because mpu was locking up. I've connected the ribbon cables the wrong way a bunch of times, but didn't figure 5v would kill anything.

#1462 6 months ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:Anyone know why when my sound board is plugged in on my flight 2000 the machine boots, i hear start up pings, but then the MPU restarts?

Solved!! Here is what I found on another thread.

"Make certain that pin 34 of the sound board is not connected to the MPU. Pin 34 on J1 of the sound board and pin 34 on J5 of the MPU board is the /IRQ signal. This signal is never used by the sound board. However, if it is connected to the MPU board from the sound board, it can sometimes cause the MPU to lock up or hang. Either bend pin 34 of J1 on the sound board away from the connector (if it is even connected), or snip the pin off completely."

Thanks G-P-E!!

#1467 6 months ago


yuck. Worked for 3 minutes and now it isn't working again. no sound at all and mpu board resets or locks up after a couple of blinks. Disconnect the sound board and everything is good again. frustrated.

#1470 6 months ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

Are your sound ribbon cables new? Are the headers on the sound board and J5 of the MPU new? Flaky cables and / or crappy header pins can create all sorts of random issues. It's best to start fresh by replacing the headers and the ribbon cables, and going from there.

I built new cables and resoldered the header pins. I didn't replace the pins. I guess I could try that. They looked okay. thanks for the suggestion. I'll check back when that is done.

#1472 6 months ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

I installed the jumper between pin 5 and the top of c14 but still no dice.

Why a jumper there? I can't find a post that talks about that jumper.

#1493 6 months ago

I am parting out my Flight 2000. It breaks my heart to do it, but I invested a ton of money in it and was still going to have to invest a lot more to get it up and running. I'm trying to get back some of the money I invested by selling some parts.

I have listed several parts on Ebay. I'd be happy to provide a 15% discount to anyone on pinside who wants to buy these off of Ebay. Let me know. I'm not selling them cheaply because I need to try to get back as much as I can.

ebay.com link - new 7 digit pinitech displays

ebay.com link - Transformer

ebay.com link - Apron

ebay.com link - Large Drop Target Unit

ebay.com link - Apollo Unit

ebay.com link - Sling shot Kicker Assemblies

ebay.com link - Apollo Kicker Assemblies

ebay.com link - Original Pop Caps

ebay.com link - Original Displays (don't know if they are working or not, for repair)

ebay.com link - Original Pop Bumper assemblies with plastic rings

Thanks for taking a look.

#1498 6 months ago
Quoted from Poida:

Just a little bit of work to get this up and running

Wow, good luck with that. Take lost of pictures, the transformation process will be cool to see.

#1504 6 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You list your transformer as an AS-2518-18

This number is not the transformer number. It is the number for the rectifier board that is shared between classic Sterns and Ballys. The transformer didn't have a number other than the 37-8014 on the paper. Other transformers I have seen have a number stamped on the body. This transformer didn't have that number. The voltages worked perfectly. I purchased a new rectifier board (which I have since used in my Stars machine as that board blew) and I used a universal Alltek mpu board from another of my machines. Everything worked on the machine. I got the correct voltages at the transformer and at the rectfier board and at the solenoid driver board (with another replacement), and at the replaced MPU. My issue was I didn't want to pay to replace all of those boards considering the condition of the rest of the machine. The light board had some issues and the sound and speech boards weren't working.

The transformer still has the original wiring and will work well with anyone's Bally or Stern of that era.

1 month later
#1740 4 months ago

Just finished my Flight 2000 playfield.

Archived after 20 days
Sold elsewhere
Parts - For Trade
New “This playfield was sanded down and repainted. This is not a CPR or a digitally printed playfield. It is hand painted. As such, it is not going to be a perfect match in every way to...”
Canon City, CO

DSCN2108 (resized).JPG
#1742 4 months ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Nicely done for a 100% repaint.

Thanks. Took quite a bit of time, but seemed worth it to me. It's a pretty complicated playfield for an early machine.

#1773 4 months ago
Quoted from Aahzz:But my searches aren't giving me anything on the left slingshot arm

I have some originals if you need one. I had to part out a Flight 2000 Pm me if you are interested.

#1776 4 months ago
Quoted from Aahzz:

But my searches aren't giving me anything on the left slingshot arm.

I do have a couple more originals if anyone needs one. When I was restoring my Flight 2000, I was missing one and the Williams part worked, it just didn't match so I put it in a place you couldn't see.

DSCN2156 (resized).JPG
#1805 4 months ago

I can't grab it, but someone should.

Archived after 20 days
Sold (amount private)
Contributed to Pinside
Machine - For Sale
Stern Ali Archived
Used - shows wear, needs some work “Stern Ali- Nice playfield, backglass is better the most, but does have some paint loss in the corner. Cabinet has checking, but solid. Game works and plays well, could use new con...”
Gardner, MA

#1810 4 months ago

I'd be happy to buy one for under $1000, but i've never seen one. I'm not sure that one is worth $1500 with the cabinet in such rough shape, but $150 for stencils and some paint, it could look much better.

1 month later
#2089 76 days ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

So stoked on this

Nice line-up. How do you rank them? My rank is Stars, Meteor, Galaxy with Stars in front by a bunch.

2 weeks later
#2202 61 days ago

reposted here from the projects forum

Manufacturer: Stern
Cost: $25
Location: Charlottsville VA
Vintage pinball machine. Needs electrical work, does not work. Must be able to pick up.
Used - Fair

Like Colson always says... WIWC 25 bucks people!

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
Machine - For Sale
Camp Hill, PA

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