(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 2,346 posts
  • 195 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by treborlicec
  • Topic is favorited by 101 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #227 Various gate tips. Posted by cottonm4 (1 year ago)

Post #269 Hi quality thoughts from Cotton about inlanes. Posted by cottonm4 (1 year ago)

Post #279 Playfield touch up tips. Posted by klr650 (1 year ago)

Post #309 Stern inserts suggestions. Posted by cottonm4 (1 year ago)

Post #310 Seawitch gate flap solution. Posted by frunch (1 year ago)

Post #1033 Bally drop targets on the classic stern, even mix and match. Posted by cottonm4 (8 months ago)

Post #1958 Star Gazer podcast episode link. Posted by DRDAVE (75 days ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1907 82 days ago

Picked up a Dracula in pretty rough condition recently. Looks like i'll need to replace the lockdown bar receiver.

What's the best way to source this part?

#1911 81 days ago


1 week later
#1981 71 days ago

Picked up a Dracula recently and got it up and running - fun game i can't wait to shop out and get humming. I asked my son (7) what he thought of it after his first several plays and he said "yeah it's pretty fun i think i like the shots but what's 'dracula' about it?"

I think it's because it sounds like a space battle theme.

Setting complete historical purity aside for a moment - has anyone ever modded a stern of this era to play alternate sounds? I'm thinking about how cool it could be to replace the sounds with something more melodic, minor, and "Dracula" sounding. Using same lengths and triggers and true-to-era electronic sounds.

Anybody ever do this kind of thing?

2 weeks later
#2072 54 days ago

question on faceted post heights!

I'm restoring a Dracula and about a 1/2 of my posts (faceted or otherwise) are broken or otherwise maligned and needing replacement. Is there any FUNCTIONAL reason to use the 1-3/16 posts in this game? I'm thinking to just replace everything with the 1" posts - is there any good reason not to do this?

Thank in advance.

#2074 54 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Well if I'm hearing you correctly you might not have clearance for the plastics since the smaller posts go under them + a screw on top

ahh yes. i was simplifying my description but i was thinking of using the 1" faceted posts with a washer (1-1/16" total) across the board and using whatever shorter spacer height is needed so the other posts sit under the plastics.

From what i can tell there is clearance enough with the non-negotiable top-of-playfield stuff like the slingshots, drop targets, and stand-up targets.

Or maybe I'm just being silly and I should go original. In general i like the plastics lower because then there are less "bare bulb in eye" moments.

#2078 54 days ago

Can anyone with a Dracula post pics of what the eject hole and posts are supposed to look like? This area on mine wasn’t populated when I bought it, but I do have the plastic for it

#2080 53 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Check the game flyer.

Thanks, i didn't think of checking the flyer!

2 weeks later
#2188 39 days ago

Putting this out here, looking for a Dracula playfield for a re-theme, the rougher the better: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/84692

3 weeks later
#2300 18 days ago

Need a little help with a Dracula flipper rebuild.

I just noticed that the switch stack on one flipper appears to have an extra switch (or some kind of EOS i haven't seen yet - this is my first classic Stern). In any case, the tabs on the switch base aren't connected to anything, but there are old solder lumps on the tabs. What is supposed to be happening here?

IMG_3634 (resized).jpg

#2303 18 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I think that extra switch it to drive the upper flipper.

That’s s good guess, but the upper flipper was working before I tore the playfield down, so who knows!

#2306 18 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

It looks like somebody's bypassed that second switch so the upper flipper activates the same time as the lower flipper. The consequence is the left flippers will be weaker than normal because there's more current strain on the transformer the moment you flip.

Indeed I looked and a previous owner soldered those two wires together as if that switch was permanently closed. I’ll definitely get them wired up right, thanks to everyone’s good direction!

May I also add that this is undoubtedly the most active and practically helpful group I’ve encountered on pinside, I’m glad I found you all! Thanks!!!!

#2319 12 days ago

Getting to the finish line with my Dracula. Couple of questions:

1. I'm having a hell of a time setting up these thumpers to be super responsive. I've got the skirts centered on the spoons and the switches adjusted really close, but the ball seems to not be triggering the switch (like the skirt isn't high enough?) pretty often. The contacts are good, and the thumpers were working great before i rebuilt them... so i'm clearly missing some trick or consideration with this setup. I've rebuilt tons of pops before and never had this kind of trouble. I'm considering starting over with this plastic base: https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-sterndata-eastsegacapcomalvin-gspookyheighway-thumper-bumper-housingbase.html - thoughts?

2. I've got an issue with sound that is a little elusive - if i leave the machine on, but not "in game" for awhile, after about 5 minutes (haven't timed it), the machine starts making garbled sounds and when i turn it off and on again it stops. I've got the alltek board if that makes a difference, but i'm assuming the problem is some bad/weak component on the sound board. Any obvious thing I should look/test for?

Thanks! And here's a shot of the playfield looking purty:

IMG_3771 (1) (resized).png

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