Spokane, WA
Flap gate? I don't see a flap gate at all, only gate I see is by the skill shot.
(Topic ID: 225496)
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Ali
Stern Electronics, 1980-
Big Game
Stern Electronics, 1980
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Catacomb
Stern Electronics, 1981
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Cheetah
Stern Electronics, 1980
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Cosmic Princess
Stern Electronics, 1979
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Dracula
Stern Electronics, 1979
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Dragonfist
Stern Electronics, 1981
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Flight 2000
Stern Electronics, 1980
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9 months later
Quoted from Deltron:Anyone know how many Meteors were made with countersunk coin doors vs not or which one is more common? I have five Meteors now, three countersunk and two not. I also noticed the corners of the cabs are cut different based on coin door.[quoted image][quoted image]
5 Meteors!? no wonder I can't find one up here in the NW to buy someone is hogging them all!
2 months later
Hi guys, finally joined the club this weekend, added a Dracula to my early SS lineup. Current laundry room line below. Dracula is not powered on as I'm waiting for some parts to fix some wiring hackery.
IMG_20191020_174420 (resized).jpgIs there any way to adjust the kickout direction from the hole in Dracula? Mine is shooting the ball into the pop bumper cap adjacent to it and then into the glass. I tried bending the tip a bit, and bending the wire post sticking up, neither seemed to have much of a effect, when the ball comes to rest in the hole it is all the way to the right side and gets kicked that way no matter what. I can see where it used to hit the playfield by the wear marks, but it not longer shoots there. ideas?
IMG_20191027_184835 (resized).jpgQuoted from vec-tor:I thought the coil stop is adjustable. I did a service call on one, and the coil stop had a
brass screw with a brass nut to adjust the throw of the plunger.
I'll take a look, thanks.
Quoted from cottonm4:You will need to remove the screws that are currently holding the saucer into position. Make new marks carefully on where you want the kicker to shoot to and drill new holes. You should consider and may even have to fill the old holes with dowel rod and clean them up.
screws? they be nails, but yes I had considered this but thinking I may need to move the whole mech as well.
Quoted from La4s:Just a thought, but couldn't you just swap in a lower strength coil?
maybe, but it's more the direction it's going than the strength, although it is a bit strong to be hitting the glass like it does. I think with a lower strength coil it would still be hitting the pop bumper though. I'll see if I can find what's supposed to be there and see if what I have matches.
Quoted from vec-tor:I thought the coil stop is adjustable. I did a service call on one, and the coil stop had a
brass screw with a brass nut to adjust the throw of the plunger.
Yes, I did have the adjustable coil stop, and adjusting that helped the power, but what ended up fixing the direction problem was adjusting the switch. It was pressing so hard up that the pin on it was forcing the ball off to the side resulting in the ball being fired into the pop. everything in Drac now working well, thanks everyone for the tips and ideas.
2 months later
Quoted from Chalkey:Lectronamo sb-100 replacement complete! Woop! Thanks to @Gott-leib and especially @Slochar!
that is sweet. um, what how who to do this? I'm sure my Dracula would sound better with chimes.
1 month later
Quoted from TheLaw:If you are going the Harbor Freight route, I would get the bigger one. The 5lb one isn;t good for fitting bigger parts like drop target housing pieces, it will end up ripping a hole in the side
I wonder has anyone used this one? This is kind of the shape of the one I use now and is a decent size. Of course you have to do multiple loads, you can probabl;y fit everything at once in a 18lbs
amazon.com link »
I have the one you linked too. A tad bigger than the harbor freight one, shaped a little different, a whole hell of a lot quieter, works pretty good at least for the couple batches of small stuff I've run through it since it replaced my dead HF one.
2 weeks later
Quoted from cottonm4:Look thru these.
Since you are in Australia, I am trying to keep it to one suppler for you. But Marko is out of stock on some flipper bats and some of the cab flipper switches.
Here is what they have
1)coil sleeves. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7066
2) flipper bushings. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4A-111-W-2
3) Barrel spring. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/266-5010-00. (This is the barrel spring you want. Trust me)
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Here are some flipper bats to choose from. Some are out of stock. If you need some help figuring these out we will all help you.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=flipper+bat
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Interanal shooter springs are here. They have all sorts of different tensions. Questions? Ask.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=spring
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Best I can do for you right now. Pinball Life and PBR will probably have some of what you need, but not all of what you need.
Which is the correct shooter rod for these? I didn't know they made a shorter barrel spring, thanks for that one.
2 weeks later
Quoted from seshpilot:For cabs, what kind of clear are you guys using? I'd like to try this but don't want to deal with the highly toxic stuff. Maybe that means I'm out.
I use Minwax polycrylic. water based, non-yellowing, goes on over anything I've tried it on just fine, comes in multiple size cans, can even get in a spray can, comes in matte, satin and gloss for your preference. I like satin myself.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Polycrylic-32-fl-oz-Satin-Water-based-Polyurethane/999913687
4 months later
Quoted from cottonm4:Here are some pics of my button style lockdown bar. There are no part numbers. AFAIK, Stern is the only company to use this type of lock bar. So, if you see the telltale nut plates that are spot welded on they will probably be the bar that you want.
This bar came from a roached Dracula I bought.
Caution: Those screws (buttons ) are not standard off the shelf screws. If they are missing then you will need to visit a machine shop to get them made.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Those screws appear the same as the ones Gottlieb used in their earlier lockbars, and according to the listing below Chicago Coin as well. I have bought them for a Gottlieb lockbar from pbresource.
https://www.flippers.com/catalog/product_info.php/lockdown-screw-p-1596
Oh, the Dracula I used to own also had the button style.
2 months later
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:Let’s stop destroying wonderful stern games to make all these frankenmeched other games. Leave that drop bank in your meteor and flight 2000 and trident and memory lane. These are wonderful games!
So, I've been thinking this for a while, and my thought is to redo these machines in MPF (or SkeletonGame) and truly build them from scratch using P3-ROC (or FAST or OPP or whatever) new off the shelf mechs and such. The big thing that is missing from off the shelf is the drop target banks. I've been thinking of trying to design an expandable DT mech in say 1, 3, and 5 unit sizes that could be stacked together to make 2,4,6, 7.. banks and could be configured with or without individual drop coils and my idea that started it all is that targets could be swapped out with ones that have tops (above the playfield part) that are made like classic Stern, Gottieb, Bally, whatever you want. basically a universal replacement drop target mech for any machine you could think of and would be great for homebrew as well.
So far thinking is as far as I've gotten on this plan. Anybody feel free to take my idea and run with it.
2 months later
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Really dumb question.
Installing some new SW-10A-48 switches for the flipper bottons. They are a little different from the original switches. I have longer screws for these longer stacks.
But does it matter which contact lug the blue/orange wires get soldered to?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Shouldn't matter which one goes where, but your screws should go the other way.
Quoted from wolffcub:Just tossing a feeler out there for some feedback. Is there an interest in 3 bank, 4 bank, 5 bank repo drop target assemblies? I'm talking the metal bodies only and no springs or drop targets.
um, yeah.
4 weeks later
Quoted from Tsskinne:That day has been here for awhile. There are lots of people who have done it at this point. I know of someone who is building Fathoms as well, having the drop target mechs built even. Someone else on this forum has built MM, TAF, AFM, and others. It is all possible, just have to decide if it is worth the time and effort.
Really? I have yet to see a classic Stern built that has not been the result of parting out something else to some extent. And it's sad. Look forward along with frunch to being able piece together from new parts.
1 month later
A common complaint on the older gottlieb plastic spinners is that they are too light to spin properly, some have even drilled holes in them and added weight for improved performance (they are hollow near the edges). probably a great middle ground of weight somewhere and if you went too heavy ball impact wouldn't get it up to optimal speed. such problems and concerns in the pinball world, let's not even get started on height of the spinner mount (some have said the aforementioned plastic gottlieb's do better on taller posts than stock). But we can all agree not much beats a good spinner rip.
5 months later
2 weeks later
Quoted from FantasticPinball:I know a lot of you are doing scratch builds and Re-bodies. I wanted to sell my Seawitch playfields with an option of offering a fully populated drop in replacement, potentially with the full kit to assemble the entire machine. I’ve reached out to a few people making wire harnesses and drop targets. Often the small run production costs on these parts makes the project seem unfeasible. If there is interest, we can put together a parts list and cost it out. Maybe a bulk buy of 100 full kits would make it feasible. Anyone want to take on the shopping list as a project?
so, someone making drop target mechs????? those to me are the biggest hurdle, scavenging and parting out other games for mechs only goes so far.
There is also the transformer panel needed. I think the Homepin Bally one would work? https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AS-2877-1
Quoted from SR230CC:This is a list I started for the major parts. I still need to fill out coil numbers and qty of posts and hardware.....etc.
[quoted image]
nice. you can buy 3 bank DT from Pinball Life as well, but the target will obviously not look right. I did a mock up of one of their targets with a Gottlieb drop target head in fusion 360 just for fun. Did gottlieb because I had one on hand, same could be done for Stern, Bally etc. It sounds like the swinks 3d printed targets from shapeways work pretty well, though expensive, but I might give this a shot at some point.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from FantasticPinball:Is the 3 bank on my F2K the same as the other titles? If so, I can start with that and look into designing a replacement 3 bank. I think it would be nice to have a memory select so the rule set could be deepened, but I will have to figure out the production cost, ideally keeping a replacement assembly under $100.
if you do the 3 it should be fairly straight forward to expand to a 4 bank as well.
4 months later
Quoted from cottonm4:Marco has several post studs in stock. Not all studs are the same. You need to find the longest ones you can get to extend through to the lower side of the play field.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=posts
Your machine screw posts should not wiggle in their holes. Years of high energy impacts with the silver ball can contribute to wallowing out holes. You might need to fill your wallowed out hole with some dowel rod. If you need more explanation on how to fix an oversize hole, just ask.
T-nuts are a more friendly way to install your posts. But you need open up the hole to 1/4" on the lower side of the play field to allow the T-nut to pull into the wood. But drill the 1/4" hole all the way through. Use a drill stop.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4406-01118-00
Add a DON'T to that last statement. referring to the 1/4" hole for the T-nut.
pinball life carries some of those as well, both in #8 and #6 at least. https://www.pinballlife.com/playfield-posts-metal.html
2 weeks later
re-joined the club today.. mostly. populated playfield been in storage supposedly since the 90s, very dirty but mostly very nice too. will be a project at some point down the line, build a cabinet, buy missing pieces, figure out how to power it, do lots of wiring, etc.
PXL_20220417_011329543 (resized).jpgQuoted from hisokajp:nice, find, start searching for the right transformer
Homepin made a replacement Bally transformer that I think would work, but I don't see for sale anywhere at the moment.
I was thinking about trying to find an alternative using switching power supplies like new machines and led displays so no need for high voltage. I'm probably over simplifying or missing something, but I see 43VDC (coils), 5.4VDC(controlled lamps), 11.9VDC(logic?) and 5.9VAC(GI). Is there a reason that the GI could not be DC as well instead of AC? If so, I think all of those should be easily doable.
Maybe someone smarter than I can tell me what I'm missing with that?
This playfield does have all the wiring on the back, so that's a start.
2 weeks later
Quoted from cottonm4:I'd call Steve at PBR. As Steve told me several years ago," I call up the guy who used to make springs for ACME company and tell him I need some springs for XYZ. And the guy knows what I'm I am wanting".
and the ACME guy asks Steve for a part number then yells at him when he doesn't have it 
2 months later
Quoted from hisokajp:I am thinking of clearing my cabinet paint job after putting stencils on. What are the preferred spray can clear to do this? I have not yet and i am worried i will botch a nice paint job if i mess it up
I've put minwax polycrylic over various spayed on paints on cab repaints (mtn-94, rustoleum, krylon, etc) to even out the sheen, have not had any issues.
As a side note my favorite stencil paint by far has been the mtn-94. matte/flat spray paints cover far better than glossy paints so don't get near the built up edges from needing many coats, even the matte versions of rustoleum work better in my experience. admittedly i'm not a pro and I've only done a few and have not tried all brands, but that's what works for me. have one of these for color matching.
pasted_image (resized).png 1 month later
Quoted from play_pinball:So which one of you grabbed it? I’d been meaning to share it for a few days since it was posted.
thanks for sharing it. going on my pile of seawitch parts.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:I got mine from Steve at the Pinball Resource. Star Gazer drops have the hat design and Steve has the dies for doing the hot stamp. Not really reproduction. More like new production OEM. That being said, the old OEM ones sure drop nice but they are getting old and brittle.
Pretty sure he meant the mechs, not the targets.
And pretty sure they are all from someone somewhere parting out a machine, sometimes the person building the new one sometimes ebay or where ever. Scratch build really isn't.
1 month later
Just picked up a Stars, but sadly without lockdown bar. any chance anyone has one of the old button style they don't need? (yeah, I know). if not one of the later style would work as I could get a mantis receiver for it to replace mine.
Thanks,
Dan
PS it's the one on the right.
PXL_20221021_030207066 (resized).jpg 3 weeks later
Quoted from cottonm4:I have set the -3 transformer into my Seawitch. It plays OK. If you could not compare the -3 vs. the -6 you would get by OK. But just OK. The -3 has done well with Dracula, Stars, etc. But the -3 does not have that panache the -6 gives. It does not have that last little bit of sass that I get with the -6.
I was still new to this Stern stuff when I bought mu Nine Ball and Dragonfist. They both played OK and I did not know better. But both of these pins came to me with -3 transformers. When I finally got educated and knew there were the two different transformers I did some swapping around. Installing the proper -6 transformer was a night and day difference with Nine Ball and it long shot open play field. And the -6 was big difference with Dragonfist.
With Seawitch and the -475 flipper coils, and the play field not being quite as open, it is doable, but I am going to buy a pair of 450 flipper coils and see if that will juice things up with the lower flippers. The upper flippers are fine.
So how does the homepin transformer compare with the -3 and -6?
Quoted from 27dnast:Ok. Made all of the adjustments. Thanks!
I don’t see reference to the game selection switches in the manual… any trick to them?
[quoted image]
bunch of pdf on his web page that show what those need to be depending on board version. https://nvram.weebly.com/mpu.html
Quoted from La4s:The best bang for your buck would be Stars.
And chimes rule!
2 months later
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Yeah, Marco has a 1B-483-5 cataloged (for reference only) for the 5 bank. The picture shows the 3. My handy dandy Stern Parts Catalog shows a 3-bank and a 5-bank assembly, but no 4. So I'm assuming that the part I'd need would be 1B-483-4. But I don't see it referenced anywhere.
Could definitely bend and cut a new piece if need be (although I am completely void of those skills) so that's definitely an option.
If you could CAD it up sendcutsend could cut and bend for you. they can even thread holes if needed.
1 month later
Quoted from vidguy:Looking for opinions from this esteemed group. I have a chance at grabbing either a Stars or a Seawitch. Both are of similar original quality, wear and tear but 100% functional. I love the art on both games so it really it comes down to gameplay for me. Seawitch is more expensive of course but not terribly more.
I’m looking for a keeper. What would you go with?
Both
5 months later
Quoted from gdonovan:Any color really, the cutter doesn't care.
I just looked at an early apron, if I had one to scan and make a cut file I could do it no problem. Anyone have a good scan already? I thought I had one but can't find it at the moment.
Here is a scan of a Dracula apron, believe it is the same pattern. Have an illustrator file of it if you like I can share a link when I'm in my computer tomorrow.
apron_stitch.jpgQuoted from BorgDog:Here is a scan of a Dracula apron, believe it is the same pattern. Have an illustrator file of it if you like I can share a link when I'm in my computer tomorrow.[quoted image]
Here is the illustrator file of that as well. I did cut one on my vinyl cutter, but sold the machine before I could use it.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dpah54xr2hvmyfn/Stern%20apron.ai?dl=0
3 weeks later
Quoted from cottonm4:I rip 50-60 on a good shot; On either inside or outside. I used to rip a lot more so I guess it is time for a shop job.
Can you show pics of the other spinner?
I have some Bally spinners that work well but I have a Williams High Speed spinner that gives as much action as as paperweight.
Also, spinners come in different weights. My examination shows the MPU-100 spinners are lighter in weight: Nugent, Dracula, Hot Hand all weigh 21-22 grams. Others are much heavier, something like 28 grams. Bally had some the weight 38 grams. The ones on Marco look like the are the heavier weight---but hard to be sure from just reading a sales link.
The heavier spinners spins for longer periods and roll more spins. This action is related to kinetic energy--like the flywheel on a car. The light aluminum flywheels are great for the 1/4 mile drag race as they spin up fast. But the heavier flywheels do a better job of taking you down the road for long distances.
I have some of the Marco spinners you linked to, https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-7861 they are thinner and lighter than Bally. The ones I have range from 19 - 22 grams.
I also have one of the 'generic replacement' spinner from pinball resource, it weighed in at 33 grams. This is much thicker than the williams ones from Marco, looks basically identical to the Bally one in my eight ball size wise. https://www.pbresource.com/spinner.html#gen
My gottlieb system 80 textured, that can't be found anywhere listed here https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/24494, weigh in at 27 grams.
3 months later
I have understood Kirk pass to be from a cradle. Just drop the flipper and let it roll and bounce off the post to the other side. My Stars works well left to right, not so much the other direction, but I have seen others that work both ways.
1 week later
Quoted from cottonm4:All 3 spinners will be the same measurement wise. I don't know what weights Stern used on Star Gazer. What I do know is that the heavier weighted spinners will spin longer.
Here are your options.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-3460
A Bally spinner for $26.00
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-7861
A Williams spinner for $8.99
Steve at PBR also sells the Bally spinner that he made in-house. I don't how much he charges.
I do not know what any of these spinners weigh. I don't trust the weights that Marco has posted. But if you called and asked they may weigh them for you.
I have a williams black from Marco, weighs 22g, and a white williams from Marco, weighs 19g
The Bally (generic enhanced) from pinball resource I have weighs 33g, and costs $17 https://www.pbresource.com/spinner.html
to add to the data my original textured gottlieb from games like alien star weighs 27g
and the plastic crappy gottlieb spinners I have weigh 12g
oh, and whatever this one is from weighs 38g. was in my alien star if i remember right, but does not belong there
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